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I have the watchmakers spindle here without drawbar. Is here some one who want to share the dimensions of rhe drawbar or has a drawing? in the files section is nothing useful to find about this part

Hi Gang: Here is a gear from a HO locomotive. The shaft splits the plastic, so I turned and press on collars to close the split: Good luck, Carl.

One of the most useful parts for me to use on my SL are a set of fittings for a collet chuck with M12 x 1 fitting to hold small screws to shorten them and make dome headed screws for my clock repair

I use mine mostly for model railway work; turning chimneys and domes, bearings, wheels etc., as well as odd jobs like repairing my wife's knitting needles after the dog chewed the pointed ends. All

Just built this Collet Chuck for a friend after i cleaned up his rusty dusty U3. All done on the Unimat 3 except the M14x1 Tap and?my Thread cutting setup and top?slide from my lathe. I purchased

One of the odder things I've used the Unimat for; It's a hub puller for my Italian-made surface grinder.? Had a weird metric thread that I couldn't do on my larger lathes.? The work was turned by

Great job. The important thing is that you are actually using your machine and learning in the process.

I'm a relative noob, so my contribution will be small. I'm in the process of building a new micro shop where I will permanently setup the Unimats, and then I hope to make some more interesting stuff.

Would anyone care to share what they have built on the Unimat? Dick -- http://www.homemadetools.net/ forum/ OFF- SET-tailstock-center-65965#post105972 http://www.homemadetools.net/

The image you supplied is the Unimat 1080 fret saw attachment. I presume the OP can choose which he wants depending on his needs. Of course if he is not buying to expand his Unimat collection he could

Ah. We are at cross purposes. I was describing the jigsaw, eg. (Picture copied off the web).

the Unimat 1070 scroll saw attachment does have a tension spring... and can use scroll saw blades.

I think we are probably at crossed purposes here. The point is that any blade for the Unimat jigsaw will have to be fairly stiff to work. There is no mechanism for tensioning the blade, unlike a with

Jewelers saws are available in hard back wide versions that are 2 or 3 mm wide. They have a reasonable stiffness. Like a small hacksaw blade and designed with plain ends for clamped attachment. There

I have the round cast iron table, return arm and drive cam for the 1070 scroll saw attachment but I a am missing the table support and drive parts,maybe someday I'll find the parts to make it

Yes, a hand driven piercing saw (UK) aka jeweller’s saw (USA) will serve most fine sheet metalworking needs. The blades are not a substitute for unimat jigsaw blades, they are far too thin. (And 144

Hi Dave, I'm in the camp of a dedicated saw would be better. Small enough to store under a bench. Mainly, I'm too impatient when it comes to reconfiguring tools, would rather just have the separate

Look up on Amazon “German style jewelers saw”. They are available for around $13 for a saw frame and 144 blades. I am sure that true made in Germany blades would be a higher quality. That said I

Wow, that was a lot of money in 1964! I started work in 1967 and my gross weekly pay was 3 pounds 10 shillings as a trainee aircraft fitter, so more than 8 weeks pay! This is my first post to this

OK, I see it now. You would only need these if you were running without the standard motor bracket. With the motor bracket in place the cup locating the end of the spring would not touch the pulley,