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Just to confirm, what is this cross slide nut material?

Perhaps using a curved, or wave, disk spring washer under the handle would give enough pre-load to minimize the backlash. Something similar to one of these: https://www.mcmaster.com/9714k323/

Thanks Alan, I stand corrected (I'm in the US.) Personally I would have preferred a machine gray finish on my DB200 (maybe if I ever have to repaint it) and wonder why the hammertone silver/green was

Thanks for that link! I have ordered everything I need to make my own collet holder - sounds like a fun project! And - the threading technique in the procedure is just genius. Thinking of making a kit

Incidentally I have installed a new lead screw when I rebuilt the lathe. ?So my backlash is in the cross slide.

I've been musing about building a small electric motor from scratch on my Unimat SL.? Just for the fun of it and to learn something new. Seems like a doable project, including using the lathe to

So on the SL the cross slide does not have a “nut“ in it. The Cross light itself is threaded to match the lead screw. So adjusting for wear is hopeless unless one can find a good as new cross

Seems like a common plan. I was buying parts for my recently acquired SL, and suddenly realized I had almost enough parts for a second unit, which I will use as a mill. Adding a DC motor and speed

Thank you everyone for the advice / knowledge sharing! I've realised that for my case, backlash is from both handle assembly (maybe 30% of the backlash) AND cross slide nut (majority of the backlash)

Yeah that completely makes sense, I have a Taig CNC machine that uses the same technology as a Unimat, and I program the backlash compensation into it. When it reads the code it compensates for

Yes John, you don't have to change anything just slide them on the shafts, I don't know where you can get them your side of the pond but this is the place in the UK: 4 pieces AXK0515/AS0515 Budget

Are there some of these thrust bearings that we can install on our manual lathes?? No boring big holes, etc., if I want to go back to original.

This is what I was taught to do and have done on all my larger lathes, but on the small SL it was a problem that needed more looking at if I was to use power on the screws, my first thought was I

When I rebuilt my SL, reducing the backlash as much as possible was a goal. However, there was a point of diminishing return as the hand wheel rubs against a rough uneven casting. With any flex in the

P.S. Meant to say plus one Mk2B that I personally have... Sent: Thursday, April 6, 2023 12:18 PM To: [email protected]; Gsteinba52@...; 'John Hutnick' <johnhutnick@...> Subject: Re: [Unimat]

Some of the early DBs – at least here in Switzerland - definitely came original with gray enamel, including several I’ve seen plus one Mk2 that I personally have. Also, I’ve separately acquired

John, I've never seen a Unimat DB/SL without a crackle or hammertone finish. That eBay photo looks like a pretty standard machine gray enamel.

This looks to be about correct for the green unimats. Not easily available in the US, but you might have some luck in Europe.

Thanks all, it looks like I will be making a few different ones, the dimensions of the slot on the cross slide would help

I have the same backlash on the cross slide of my U3.? I placed a thin,? small diameter brass washer between the knob and the lathe.? This reduced the diameter of the contact circle between the