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I was assured long ago that a flat bottom drill is made from a slightly bigger drill, with the cutting edges ground off the flutes, and the end flattened. Never seen anyone take the trouble, perhaps

A long time ago we had this discussion. In England the three taps are Taper, Second & Plug and a bottoming tap is usually made by grinding the point and lead off a pug tap so you can tap all the way

Probably not what you are looking for, but I use this. ?An easy conversion to a reversing electric drill.

I've had drills walk all over before, but never tried to start a hole with a flat bottom drill. I keep trying to tell people I'm crazy, not stupid. ;) Not sure how many of them are buying it! Great

Depends on how deep the hole is. If you can run the tap all the way down, you don't need a bottoming tap for a through hole. If your tap is too short, you might. You can certainly make a bottoming tap

Hi Tim: I remember the stamping die shop I was in hired a mold maker from LA. In die sets they drill holes for springs and call for flat bottoms. Not used to die work the mold maker tried to start the

If you grind the end of a broken tap flat, you have a bottoming tap. Sometimes useful even on a through hole in an odd position.

I'm confused—I've never had a bottoming tap and I've seen others in this group say all their bottoming taps were made up from broken plug taps. I thought the whole purpose of the bottoming tap was

Hello Dick and Elliot: I had a lot of holes to tap in plastic and built a reversing tapper from a cordless drill: The switch is a DPDT push button to reverse the drill. Then when I was at my

Dick, If you set up the Uni as a mill/drill press and use a spiral point tap you could knock these out pretty quickly, if you have a reversing motor. With the standard Uni motors removing the tap will

Charles, I owned two Tapmatic tappers some years ago. They are nice to use and I wish I still had them. They are very expensive to buy even on the used market. It is not cost effective for me and the

If you are talking about what I think you are talking about, it doesn't seem very practical.? That's a pretty small size for that sort of thing.? Thread milling is a close cousin to single point

I have a requirement for some M6 internally threaded through holes. In the past I have done this same job by drilling holes and tapping with a standard tap followed by a bottoming tap.I usually

Hello, Carl! That is interesting. I use little collars with brass set screws for travel limits on the way bars. This works well and is easily adjusted. Dick

Hi Gang: I used my Unimat to mill holes for switches in Light Tables I built back in 1988. The material was 3/32" aluminum and the holes were 2cm x 4cm. I drilled a large starting hole on the drill

The Sieg C0 is basically a copy of the Unimat 3, hence the similarities. If you want my opinion, don't bother trying to mill on either of the unimats or your sieg. They simply aren't rigid enough.

Hi Nick, Would you perhaps know of someone looking to clear some space and sell a C1 with Mill setup ?

Hi – Just to confuse the issue further - instead of going to the effort of making a milling setup for your C0 or spending on a Unimat setup (although I would not be without mine, alongside my SC3)

Just a few thoughts? I would suggest that you do more research on the Unimat and consider it as an option.? I'm familiar with the C0 and I would not be inclined to put more time and money it its

Guys Ive just replayed to my own message to update you all. Ive just been looking on the FleaBay and spotted a Unimat 3 for sale. I had a ganger at her and shes VERY similair to my Axminster Sieg C0