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When I got my Unimat SL it had a 3 jaw chuck and a 4 jaw chuck, not self centering. I bought a 10mm drill chuck that had a B2 I believe taper in it. I clamped the drill chuck in the 4 jaw chuck and

Keith, That sounds like a good method to insure close T.I.R. I have an existing 1/4” Emco drill chuck with T.I.R. issues since new back in the fifties or sixties. It is threaded 12mm x1mm and has

Looking at the activity numbers we are having the best month for a good few years now. With everyone being in isolation, shut down, lock up or lock in it's a good job we still have our forum to help

When I did it I used a tailstock ram with an ER11 collet on it to drill the 11 mm hole - I suppose a drill chuck would do just as well but the sall collets give me more working space. I have a short

Hi Carl, I have a question for you. When you tapped the drill chucks to M12 x 1mm how did you ensure good concentricity (runout)? Dick

Hi William, Do you have any pictures of the Extended Way Bars. I understand the principle but I would like to see a picture of the extended bars mounted on the Uni. Thanks Dick

Mr. Ayerst, if it would help, I can try to drill this hole in your piece of aluminum if you send ito me. I do not have extra aluminum stock around. This of course is if you are in the US, otherwise

Hi Gang: Years ago when I bought my Unimat, 1973, I started acquiring tooling. The first tool everyone with a Unimat should have is the M12x1 tap. This will allow you to make tooling to fit the

Hi Brian , Thanks for the tip. I also damaged my cap about a week ago and was thinking of how to get a replacement. After reading your post, I tried it and I have been able to make my own cap. Thanks.

You can’t have too many lathes J Regards, Andy Sent: 24 April 2020 08:32 To: Andy Carlson <andycarlson@...>; [email protected] Subject: Re: [Unimat] Clamping large dia. for centre-drilling Thanks

Thanks All. Andy, I have a three jaw chuck, four jaw chuck, catchplate/faceplate + dog and the vertical milling attachment. Unfortunately, no extended way bars. I do have a Proxxon mini pillar drill

Boring is a good way to make big holes on small lathes but this workpiece is 6 inches long so I would want a fixed steady and possibly also to take the tailstock off. Even then the Unimat might be

Hi Gang: Using the two quills you can only drill 5cm deep. If you clamp the stock to the cross slide you can drill the full travel of the carriage, plus the head stock quill. So the idea is to use the

I think the best way is to drill a smaller hole and then bore it to size. -Guy-

Reduced shank drill or 3/8 chuck fitted to Unimat.

The drill is too big for the 0-? in Jacobs chuck. I guess they want the drill held in the 3 jaw chuck in the headstock but then the workholding arrangement is a bit of a mystery. As you have noticed

Instructions seem odd. The standard way of doing such a bore is TS drilling - but the workpiece is too long for that. How I would do it is use the extended way bars, intended for wood turning. Clamp

Hello again chaps, Last question for a long time I hope - I’ve got the majority of techniques tested for the Edenstaal cannon - the last question on it, I hope is that it suggests to centre punch

Thank you all!

My local hardware store has solid plastic rod in various diameters. If you can cut an internal 1mm thread, machining these should be possible. Neil ----- [email protected]> wrote: