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I have a scrap motor, I can look if they are any good. Are you in Sweden (I am). You name seem Swedish.? / Magnus? Skickat fr?n Yahoo Mail p? Android P? m?n, apr. 2020 klockan 8:52,

So I got the little motor running. It is a little tight in the bushings though. I know that the rotor should be very loose and able to spin easily by hand. I can spin it but it is not as free as an

Oh, I get it. I (as well as Neil) thought "coal" was a misspelling of "coil". When actually it was a mistaken form of "carbon". Back to the question.Several years ago, someone posted a source for

It is one of the black bakelite/plastic caps for the motor brushes. Maybe someone have one from a scrap motor? -- Lars H

Generally those tool sets have? some top rake on them for turning steel. or maybe aluminium. For brass you need zerotop rake - a plain flat top to the tool. With top rake the tool tends to dig in,

Never use emery cloth or emery boards on these. They leave bits behind that aren't good for motors. Neil -----

Inside is mother's milk to me. I used to repair stuff like this half a century ago. And I'll even tackle a flat screen TV - if it's not too heavy! Neil -----

Hard to believe it's already been three weeks again! :O Just wanted to let you guys know that I got it running again - right direction on first try too! I think my little "vent" hole might have been

Is this the coil to make the headstock shaft retract? Or something to do with the motor brushes? Neil -----

I use a mini screw gun as my drive unit to return the carriage to the tailstock end ...On my U3. Works great.? I put a nutdriver on my screwgun and away it goes.? I will often use the screwgun to do

Another option might be a sheering tool; I've used them on steel with great results, but never tried brass.? Has anyone? -Dave

The simplest power feed is simply to use an electric screwdriver fitted with a socket that fits the hex nut at the end of the screw. This gives you both forward and reverse, and in many models

Do you have any pictures of how you set that powerfeed up looking to add a power feed to my sl. Dan

Hello Lars: Do you mean the cupped washer that holds the coil spring that retracts the quill? I took mind off years ago to have 25mm of quill travel instead of 19mm. Of course you could machine a new

I believe you’re referring to the brush and spring. I’m not familiar with your motor but some others who are may have info on sources for replacement brush cap. Could you glue it back together and

Hi Gang: I used my Erector set motor for power feed once. The transmission allowed 2 speeds, forward and reverse. Plus since it drove the hex nut holding the hand wheel on it could drive all three

Hi William, On the subject of cutting tools, have you considered learning to grind your own tools? Adding this skill to your “tool box” will enable you to grind any shape you will ever need not to

Ok I have ordered a "traditional" 1/4" tool to try rather than the very pointy straight cut tool I have. I am planning on making the edenstaal cannon so a mix of aluminium and steel - so hopefully

Hi, new to this forum. I have a Unimat SL, 95W. The cap for the coal/spring assembly has broken. Can anyone help? I live in Sweden. -- Lars H

This is where the power feed option really shines Martin P.