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Hi Gang: The runout is something that can be fixed. Most lathe chucks come with a mounting plate that you machine on your lathe. I would inspect first your lathe's spindle to make sure it runs true

Hi Heather, what are you going to make?? I pretend to make scale miniatures - generally working in 1/12th scale.... I generally work in brass on my unimat... Welcome to the group! I chased down the

Hi everyone, thank you for your advice. I’ve followed it - and had a great chat with Chris at RGD Tools about milling cutters. I’ll post photos of my purchases - end mills for Chris, a collet

On Thu, Mar 19, 2020 at 02:33 AM, Alfred Fickensher wrote: > > Heather, etal, a year ago I bought this one. I then bought a set of 1-10 > metric and a set of 1/32 - 3/8 inch Chinese collets for it. As

Hello everyone, Completely here and tried to post last night already (I'm not sure if it's stuck in moderation, if so - sorry for the double post - or if it just didn't go anywhere). Yesterday I took

Hi all,I’ve also dealt, once, with RC Machines. The ER16 collet chuck came with .004” runout. No response from customer service. Only a $90-$100 tool, so I’m not out much. But I won’t do

Hello everyone, totally new here and hope I'm doing everything right. I took my Unimat home today to be able to do little bits and bobs on the balcony in the sun. It had a sketchy switch and a light

Hi guys, I can recommend the purchase of an RCM Machines collet holder. I bought one, second hand, for less than the going price with P&P on eB@y. They don't turn up often. I bought Chinese collets

I would back up the recommendations to set yourself up with an ER16 collet system. I have one on my Unimat SL and I use it a lot. I have the ER16 collets from Arc Euro Trade and have found these good

Heather, etal, a year ago I bought this one. I then bought a set of 1-10 metric and a set of 1/32 - 3/8 inch Chinese collets for it. As a novice I have found it does everything I've wanted it to do so

Welcome Heather, My recommendation is to use ER16 collets. Cheap but accurate ones can be had from China. Getting holders for them is more difficult. It's the luck of the draw whether you can find a

Thanks Jerry. I haven’t tried that but the spindle quill itself seems quite clean. I don’t remember if I checked the headstock bore when I disassembled the works for repainting. That’s easy

I would suspect oxidized oil over “metal creep” as the cause of your problem. Did you try lubrication with a penetrating oil? You need something with a solvent in it to dissolve or at least soften

I seem to have a Zamac version of the Unimat DB/Sl. It’s non-magnetic and heavier than I think the aluminum version should be. I was given the unit and the squill was stiff when received, so much so

I did that Jeff and succeeded in getting the rotating center out. Now I’m stuck with the problem off removing the steel washer outboard of the bearing and then the bearing itself. Is heat an option

Hi, Heather, and welcome! May i assume you are female? If so, even better, as we have very few (only one that post regularly, Tamra). You questions are a bit broad. Would help if you described what

Hi there, I am new to this and want to set myself up with what Im likely to need to get stuck into this hobby. ?I’m on a budget. Which Collets should I buy? which milling cutters should I buy?

I heated it with a torch, the glue softened and the pulley slid right off. [email protected]> wrote:

On Sat, Mar 14, 2020 at 09:46 PM, <bluerandonee@...> wrote: > > used a MY6812 which I drilled and tapped two holes into the motor > faceplate to mount it to the Motor bracket of my DB200. > I

I used a MY6812 which I drilled and tapped two holes into the motor faceplate to mount it to the Motor bracket of my DB200. I turned a new motor pulley which secured to the motor shaft with setscrews.