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How about this kit? http://www.statecollegecentral.com/metallathe/MLA-18.html http://www.statecollegecentral.com/metallathe/MLA-18.html They have nice casting kits that appear to be design for the

I recently picked up a small box of items labeled as " Machinist Lot". I have just started going through it and I have found two interesting HSS taps. One has this on it: SCSSNER .690-48 NS HSS PG2

Or how about an offset overarm that allows the handle to stay on the file Bill? Despite its apparent simplicity, I suspect any of us could spend the rest of our lives tinkering with a filing machine �

Thanks Keith, you just reminded me that I wanted to make an insert for my fretsaw that doesn鈥檛 have a giant slot to tilt the table 45 degrees. Next time I get it out I will print one. Brian Sent

Brian, just as an idle thought; has anyone built a filing machine that has an overhead drive? That would allow holding the file by the tang and cutting on the downstroke! Bill in Boulder CO USA

I would put a counterbore in the hole so I could drop in bushes, maybe wood or plastic, slotted or notched to accept blades and files. You would end up with a drawer full of adapters, and eventually

I haven鈥檛 built one Steve, but must admit that I have been researching it (I despair of my filing skills, or rather their absence). I鈥檓 holding off right now as my son is shopping for a new lathe,

Brian, Have you built one of the Hemingway kits? I guess it can all be machined on a Myford and within the home workshop. If so this maybe a nice route. I notice they are saying you can use it for

Having drilled the first hole, you could bolt the rods onto the Unimat base, which will hold the rod in the right position for drilling the second one. You could also turn it over and spot through the

I am late to this question, but I made extended way bars for both axes of my Unimat in order to mount stepper motors on each axis. You can see pictures (and drawings) in my album (and in the Files

Morning Unimat SL users, I have contacted the owner of this unit and am making arrangement to pick it up. I own an older version that I use in my wooden toymaking and would like another unit. I am

Cheers everyone, I wont bother with the unimat attachment. and shall pop into Machine Mart see what they have.... it seems to be my favourite shop at the moment...... Steve ---In

Hi Steve. Axminster and Scheppach (Machine Mart) both sell scroll saws at that price that have variable speed and holders for pinless blades (my cheaper scroll saw is way too fast for metal cutting

These sell for collector prices. IMO you'd be better off buying a purpose made machine, new or used. You could even, maybe, get a handheld saw and make a little stand up for it to hold it upside down.

My opinion is that the Unimat Jig/Fret saw is a little light to work on 3mm thick brass. Cary

This is a very late SL1000. Note the black plastic hand wheels. Same as used on the Unimat 3s in 1976. Cary

I purchased my alloy Unimat SL new in 1968, and it came with a "mahogany" stained box. I still have it, and given the condition, I suspect it was a "semi-gloss" varnish stain, as it hasn't absorbed

Hello Steve: One bonus of the Unimat, is you can change the speed. I use my Unimat table saw to cut plastic building walls. My Harbor Freight saw spins so fast it melts the plastic, while at low RPM

Fret saw or jig saw?聽 I have the jigsaw attachment but have had limited use out of it - the blade wanders a lot.聽 However I can mount a powerdrill type jigsaw blade in it, much more rigid, and use

Hi all, I'm after a fret saw to allow me to cut some cl貌ck wheels. The material is brass sheet up to 3mm thick. I was just wondering would the SL fret saw attachment be up to the job? I can get one