This is something I have been using for years on many different projects from clocks to holding small plates whilst cutting out shapes in metal, wood, plastic on a panto-graph mill they range from thick as a hair to 6mm? tapers.
?
Phill
?
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Hi Gang:
The tapered
drift handles on spud wrenches are not quite the same. They do
align the holes enough to get a rivet or bolt in, but do not
provide the precision location a tapered pin in a hole reamed
with a tapered reamer.
Tapered pin
have a very acute angle that provide a locking feature. The
holes are hard to ream and both parts must be reamed together to
work.
The other
options are precision dowel pins, normally 0.0002" over sized in
straight reamed holes. For slightly cruder work my favorite are
roll pins in drilled holes. They are actually stronger that
hardened dowel pins.
Carl.
On 1/30/2025 4:07 PM, Davis Johnson
wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Steel workers who erect the skeletons of big buildings, bridges
and similar use something called a that has a tapered
spike for a handle. They use that tapered handle to lever holes
into alignment so they can get a bolt through. Same idea on a
different scale.
On 1/30/25 15:35, Elliot Nesterman
wrote:
The tapered holes for alignment pins are made by drilling and
then
reaming with watchmakers cutting broaches. You can buy them
individually
or in a set from watchmaking tool suppliers, who also sell the
tapered pins.
On 1/30/25 2:04 PM, Peter Brooks via groups.io wrote:
A recent thread had a link to the wonderful
clickspring YouTube
clockmaking videos, and I was intrigued to see him use ¡®taper
pins¡¯ to
be able to accurately realign two plates( or, presumably,
other items.
Seems like a very smart solution.
Does anyone use these? Do you drill the holes (with a taper
drill), or
use a reamer?
And any other equally smart solutions to achieve the same
thing?
(Sorry, not specifically Unimat related - but at least it¡¯s
metalwork !)
--
Elliot Nesterman
elliot@...
"The finest jewel cannot disguise a flawed character."
|
Podge or a podger spanner in UK - Australian parlance if you need an extra search term.
On Fri, 31 Jan 2025 at 8:07 am, Davis Johnson <davis@...> wrote:
Steel workers who erect the skeletons of big buildings, bridges
and similar use something called a that has a tapered spike for a handle. They use that
tapered handle to lever holes into alignment so they can get a
bolt through. Same idea on a different scale.
On 1/30/25 15:35, Elliot Nesterman
wrote:
The tapered holes for alignment pins are made by drilling and then
reaming with watchmakers cutting broaches. You can buy them
individually
or in a set from watchmaking tool suppliers, who also sell the
tapered pins.
On 1/30/25 2:04 PM, Peter Brooks via groups.io wrote:
A recent thread had a link to the wonderful
clickspring YouTube
clockmaking videos, and I was intrigued to see him use ¡®taper
pins¡¯ to
be able to accurately realign two plates( or, presumably, other
items.
Seems like a very smart solution.
Does anyone use these? Do you drill the holes (with a taper
drill), or
use a reamer?
And any other equally smart solutions to achieve the same thing?
(Sorry, not specifically Unimat related - but at least it¡¯s
metalwork !)
--
Elliot Nesterman
elliot@...
"The finest jewel cannot disguise a flawed character."
|
Thanks Davis. Yeah, I might have been guilty of using a screwdriver in a similar (if not remotely accurate) manner to get larger things ¡®more or less¡¯ aligned!
|
Thanks Elliot, I think it was you who posted the link to the clickspring site (re my tiny clock handles).
?
I¡¯ll have a look at some watchmakers supplies.
|
Steel workers who erect the skeletons of big buildings, bridges
and similar use something called a that has a tapered spike for a handle. They use that
tapered handle to lever holes into alignment so they can get a
bolt through. Same idea on a different scale.
On 1/30/25 15:35, Elliot Nesterman
wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
The tapered holes for alignment pins are made by drilling and then
reaming with watchmakers cutting broaches. You can buy them
individually
or in a set from watchmaking tool suppliers, who also sell the
tapered pins.
On 1/30/25 2:04 PM, Peter Brooks via groups.io wrote:
A recent thread had a link to the wonderful
clickspring YouTube
clockmaking videos, and I was intrigued to see him use ¡®taper
pins¡¯ to
be able to accurately realign two plates( or, presumably, other
items.
Seems like a very smart solution.
Does anyone use these? Do you drill the holes (with a taper
drill), or
use a reamer?
And any other equally smart solutions to achieve the same thing?
(Sorry, not specifically Unimat related - but at least it¡¯s
metalwork !)
--
Elliot Nesterman
elliot@...
"The finest jewel cannot disguise a flawed character."
|
The tapered holes for alignment pins are made by drilling and then
reaming with watchmakers cutting broaches. You can buy them individually
or in a set from watchmaking tool suppliers, who also sell the tapered pins.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On 1/30/25 2:04 PM, Peter Brooks via groups.io wrote: A recent thread had a link to the wonderful clickspring YouTube
clockmaking videos, and I was intrigued to see him use ¡®taper pins¡¯ to
be able to accurately realign two plates( or, presumably, other items.
Seems like a very smart solution.
Does anyone use these? Do you drill the holes (with a taper drill), or
use a reamer?
And any other equally smart solutions to achieve the same thing?
(Sorry, not specifically Unimat related - but at least it¡¯s metalwork !)
--
Elliot Nesterman
elliot@...
www.ajoure.net
"The finest jewel cannot disguise a flawed character."
|
A recent thread had a link to the wonderful clickspring YouTube clockmaking videos, and I was intrigued to see him use ¡®taper pins¡¯ to be able to accurately realign two plates( or, presumably, other items. Seems like a very smart solution.
?
Does anyone use these? Do you drill the holes (with a taper drill), or use a reamer?
?
And any other equally smart solutions to achieve the same thing?
?
(Sorry, not specifically Unimat related - but at least it¡¯s metalwork !)
|
Re: Unimat 12 x 1 mm 4 Jaw Chuck Numbered Jaws.
Jaws made for a scroll chuck are not the same.? The teeth are at different positions to accommodate the spiral of the scroll.
Some might assume that scroll chucks would have 3 jaws anyway and not 4.? But there are 4-jaw, and 6-jaw (and perhaps other) scroll chucks.? But all with non-identical jaws.
Charles E. "Chuck" Kinzer
On Thursday, January 30, 2025 at 01:22:57 AM PST, Gerald Feldman <gfeldman2904@...> wrote:
Did you get the chuck new?? One explanation I can imagine is that the jaws were not original to that particular chuck and were made for a chuck with a ring type adjustment that drove all four jaws at once. ? Jerry F. ?
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of brasscat via groups.io
Sent: Wednesday, January 29, 2025 2:43 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: [Unimat] Unimat 12 x 1 mm 4 Jaw Chuck Numbered Jaws. ? Hello the Forum.? Looking at a Unimat DB / SL 4 jaw check, the jaws and jaw positions ARE numbered 1 thru 4. Somehow I doubt these were fitted to each chuck. With 3 jaw chucks, the individual chuck jaws are different, to match the scroll chuck. You do want to put the jaws back in the correct place and in sequence engage them. This is not true for the 4 jaw chuck. These jaws are the same ! The screw adjusters are the same. (they though these are NOT numbered. WHY ARE THE JAWS AND POSITIONS NUMBERED ? THANKS FOR ANY RESPONSES.
|
Re: Unimat 12 x 1 mm 4 Jaw Chuck Numbered Jaws.
Did you get the chuck new?? One explanation I can imagine is that the jaws were not original to that particular chuck and were made for a chuck with a ring type adjustment that drove all four jaws at once. ? Jerry F. ?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of brasscat via groups.io
Sent: Wednesday, January 29, 2025 2:43 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: [Unimat] Unimat 12 x 1 mm 4 Jaw Chuck Numbered Jaws.? Hello the Forum.? Looking at a Unimat DB / SL 4 jaw check, the jaws and jaw positions ARE numbered 1 thru 4. Somehow I doubt these were fitted to each chuck. With 3 jaw chucks, the individual chuck jaws are different, to match the scroll chuck. You do want to put the jaws back in the correct place and in sequence engage them. This is not true for the 4 jaw chuck. These jaws are the same ! The screw adjusters are the same. (they though these are NOT numbered. WHY ARE THE JAWS AND POSITIONS NUMBERED ? THANKS FOR ANY RESPONSES.
|
Re: Unimat 12 x 1 mm 4 Jaw Chuck Numbered Jaws.
Hello Stan:
I've numbered
the jaws on my chucks and the mounting pins for the spindle. My
thought is if one part is damaged, putting it in the same spot
will not spread the damage around. Also if you were to redress
the jaws it may make a small difference where they are.
On our small
lathes the difference should be very small indeed. When I was
working the bore grinders were working to 5 nanometers, so small
differences would show up. The machine's carbide jaws would be
redressed every 100 parts.
Good luck,
Carl.
On 1/29/2025 5:42 PM, brasscat via
groups.io wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Hello the Forum.? Looking at a Unimat DB / SL 4 jaw check,
the jaws and jaw positions ARE numbered 1 thru 4.
Somehow I doubt these were fitted to each chuck. With 3 jaw
chucks, the individual chuck jaws are different, to
match the scroll chuck. You do want to put the jaws back in
the correct place and in sequence engage them.
This is not true for the 4 jaw chuck. These jaws are the same
! The screw adjusters are the same. (they though
these are NOT numbered. WHY ARE THE JAWS AND
POSITIONS NUMBERED ?
?
THANKS FOR ANY RESPONSES.
?
Stan
|
Re: Unimat 12 x 1 mm 4 Jaw Chuck Numbered Jaws.
Just a guess, but there ARE manufacturing tolerances.? There may have been a selection of jaws that fit best.? And after that, they were numbered.? I'm assuming there is some sort of matching numbers on the chuck body.? If not, then I would ignore the numbers.
Charles E. "Chuck" Kinzer
On Wednesday, January 29, 2025 at 02:42:52 PM PST, brasscat via groups.io <brasscat@...> wrote:
Hello the Forum.? Looking at a Unimat DB / SL 4 jaw check, the jaws and jaw positions ARE numbered 1 thru 4.
Somehow I doubt these were fitted to each chuck. With 3 jaw chucks, the individual chuck jaws are different, to
match the scroll chuck. You do want to put the jaws back in the correct place and in sequence engage them.
This is not true for the 4 jaw chuck. These jaws are the same ! The screw adjusters are the same. (they though
these are NOT numbered. WHY ARE THE JAWS AND POSITIONS NUMBERED ?
?
THANKS FOR ANY RESPONSES.
?
Stan
|
Unimat 12 x 1 mm 4 Jaw Chuck Numbered Jaws.
Hello the Forum.? Looking at a Unimat DB / SL 4 jaw check, the jaws and jaw positions ARE numbered 1 thru 4.
Somehow I doubt these were fitted to each chuck. With 3 jaw chucks, the individual chuck jaws are different, to
match the scroll chuck. You do want to put the jaws back in the correct place and in sequence engage them.
This is not true for the 4 jaw chuck. These jaws are the same ! The screw adjusters are the same. (they though
these are NOT numbered. WHY ARE THE JAWS AND POSITIONS NUMBERED ?
?
THANKS FOR ANY RESPONSES.
?
Stan
|
This link takes me to an out of stock motor.
|
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
John, the only benefit for me with this one i picked is you can input up to 60v and i don't need reverse, what i am thinking is for the U3 i have a 24v transformer coming as well and it can used without having to think now did i change the output correct on the bench supply.
One less thing to worry about.
?
Peter & Keith, I totally agree I am not looking at the readout i am looking and feeling the tool cutting.
?
I'll get some images put up soon first job nearly done is the collet backplate.
?
Thanks to all for the input.
?
Phill?
?
?
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John, the only benefit for me with this one i picked is you can input up to 60v and i don't need reverse, what i am thinking is for the U3 i have a 24v transformer coming as well and it can used without having to think now did i change the output correct on the bench supply.
One less thing to worry about.
?
Peter & Keith, I totally agree I am not looking at the readout i am looking and feeling the tool cutting.
?
I'll get some images put up soon first job nearly done is the collet backplate.
?
Thanks to all for the input.
?
Phill?
?
?
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May I ask please what is the benefit of this particular motor speed controller over any other?? There are any number of controllers on Ebay.??
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Re: Unimat Sl/DB Lathe Adjustable Handwheels/Dials
Thanks Ed,
They look nice and I am sure thet work nicely, however I have begun making my own set. I am useing 303 Stainless ?Steel which is free machining and I will engrave the dials myself. I get a lot of enjoyment from machining and is part of the fun for me. I would like to see a picture of yours if you have one, It is nice to see what others are doing as well. It is part of our hobby as well.
Dick
--
http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/?OFF-SET-tailstock-center-65965#post105972
?SMALL TURRET TOOL POST PLANS?
?LARGE TURRET TOOL POST PLANS
?MINI-LATHE CARRIAGE LOCK PLANS
?SMALL QC TOOL POST PLANS?
?QUICK CHANGE LATHE TURRET
?MINI LATHE COMPOUND PIVOT MODIFICATION
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Re: Unimat Sl/DB Lathe Adjustable Handwheels/Dials
This is the set I just bought? second one for me? MUST be used over METAL handwheels? I have one set on my U3?? ? send seller a note he may help you, not a normal listing for him
?
Ed Samsen
?
?
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On Mon, Jan 27, 2025 at 07:14 AM, Peter Brooks wrote:
I found that once you get the ¡®feel¡¯ of the speed and the position of the ¡®volume control¡¯ then that¡¯s good enough.
Exactly, and the response of the motor is an important part of feeling what the lathe is doing. A speed readout is just a distraction. Old industrial production machines used an Ammeter to see how hard the machine was working and as an indication of tool wear, but we don't need that either.
?
You can also get devices that you just point at a rotating object and it will read the speed, don¡¯t know anything about those though.
?
Optical tacho. I have one somewhere. You put small patch of reflective tape on the rotating part and it counts the revs.
?
|
Carl
OldToolmaker