The jaws certainly LOOK like they should be reversible.? Maybe there's a burr on the back of the jaw that stopping you from reversing the jaw?? When zooming in on your last picture, it almost looks like there's a bright spot on the back of the jaw where it's rubbed against something.? Clean & de-burr the jaws and the chuck, then oil it and try it again??
I had to go an look at my DB-200 4-Jaw since I’d just used it with the jaws reversed.? Attached photo shows two reversed, one in normal and the other lying beside the chuck.? I suspect from a previous photo there are various versions of this chuck.
The problem I'm having is that I turn them around and then they fit into the chuck about 2 to 3mm?and then just won't go in any further? I've tried pushing them hard BUT they still wont go in. I have concerns that something is wrong or I'm not fitting this up correctly?
?
Thoughts please.
?
Kind Regards
Rob
?
On Mon, 16 Sept 2024 at 17:08, Charles Kinzer via <ckinzer=[email protected]> wrote:
The jaws are reversable.? You just remove them and turn them around.? For some off-center pieces, you can even have some jaws one way and other jaws the other way.
?
Scroll type chucks (self-centering) no matter how many jaws, need a different set to have reversed jaws.
?
Charles E. "Chuck" Kinzer
?
On Monday, September 16, 2024 at 08:56:24 AM PDT, Robert Vine <robert.vine36@...> wrote:
?
?
Some pics of the 4 jaw chuck - I've no idea if this reversible. It never came with other jaw parts?
Thoughts please
?
Thanks
?
On Mon, 16 Sept 2024 at 12:38, Robert Vine via <robert.vine36=[email protected]> wrote:
Hi All,
Years ago a bought a 50mm HBM 4 jaw independent chuck M12 thread for my Unimat SL. I need to do some work on reducing a couple 25x25x25mm aluminium bars to 24x24x25 and thought it might be a good idea to use my SL. However, It does appear that when I remove a jaw and reverse it, it wont move back into the chuck? Does this mean that the jaws are not reversible I seem to doubt this) and if there are not, how can I realistically swap them around?
I had to go an look at my DB-200 4-Jaw since I’d just used it with the jaws reversed.? Attached photo shows two reversed, one in normal and the other lying beside the chuck.? I suspect from a previous photo there are various versions of this chuck.
The problem I'm having is that I turn them around and then they fit into the chuck about 2 to 3mm?and then just won't go in any further? I've tried pushing them hard BUT they still wont go in. I have concerns that something is wrong or I'm not fitting this up correctly?
?
Thoughts please.
?
Kind Regards
Rob
?
On Mon, 16 Sept 2024 at 17:08, Charles Kinzer via <ckinzer=[email protected]> wrote:
The jaws are reversable.? You just remove them and turn them around.? For some off-center pieces, you can even have some jaws one way and other jaws the other way.
?
Scroll type chucks (self-centering) no matter how many jaws, need a different set to have reversed jaws.
?
Charles E. "Chuck" Kinzer
?
On Monday, September 16, 2024 at 08:56:24 AM PDT, Robert Vine <robert.vine36@...> wrote:
?
?
Some pics of the 4 jaw chuck - I've no idea if this reversible. It never came with other jaw parts?
Thoughts please
?
Thanks
?
On Mon, 16 Sept 2024 at 12:38, Robert Vine via <robert.vine36=[email protected]> wrote:
Hi All,
Years ago a bought a 50mm HBM 4 jaw independent chuck M12 thread for my Unimat SL. I need to do some work on reducing a couple 25x25x25mm aluminium bars to 24x24x25 and thought it might be a good idea to use my SL. However, It does appear that when I remove a jaw and reverse it, it wont move back into the chuck? Does this mean that the jaws are not reversible I seem to doubt this) and if there are not, how can I realistically swap them around?
The problem I'm having is that I turn them around and then they fit into the chuck about 2 to 3mm?and then just won't go in any further? I've tried pushing them hard BUT they still wont go in. I have concerns that something is wrong or I'm not fitting this up correctly?
On Mon, 16 Sept 2024 at 17:08, Charles Kinzer via <ckinzer=[email protected]> wrote:
The jaws are reversable.? You just remove them and turn them around.? For some off-center pieces, you can even have some jaws one way and other jaws the other way.
Scroll type chucks (self-centering) no matter how many jaws, need a different set to have reversed jaws.
Charles E. "Chuck" Kinzer
On Monday, September 16, 2024 at 08:56:24 AM PDT, Robert Vine <robert.vine36@...> wrote:
Some pics of the 4 jaw chuck - I've no idea if this reversible. It never came with other jaw parts?
Thoughts please
Thanks
On Mon, 16 Sept 2024 at 12:38, Robert Vine via <robert.vine36=[email protected]> wrote:
Hi All,
Years ago a bought a 50mm HBM 4 jaw independent chuck M12 thread for my Unimat SL. I need to do some work on reducing a couple 25x25x25mm aluminium bars to 24x24x25 and thought it might be a good idea to use my SL. However, It does appear that when I remove a jaw and reverse it, it wont move back into the chuck? Does this mean that the jaws are not reversible I seem to doubt this) and if there are not, how can I realistically swap them around?
The jaws are reversable.? You just remove them and turn them around.? For some off-center pieces, you can even have some jaws one way and other jaws the other way.
Scroll type chucks (self-centering) no matter how many jaws, need a different set to have reversed jaws.
Charles E. "Chuck" Kinzer
On Monday, September 16, 2024 at 08:56:24 AM PDT, Robert Vine <robert.vine36@...> wrote:
Some pics of the 4 jaw chuck - I've no idea if this reversible. It never came with other jaw parts?
On Mon, 16 Sept 2024 at 12:38, Robert Vine via <robert.vine36=[email protected]> wrote:
Hi All,
Years ago a bought a 50mm HBM 4 jaw independent chuck M12 thread for my Unimat SL. I need to do some work on reducing a couple 25x25x25mm aluminium bars to 24x24x25 and thought it might be a good idea to use my SL. However, It does appear that when I remove a jaw and reverse it, it wont move back into the chuck? Does this mean that the jaws are not reversible I seem to doubt this) and if there are not, how can I realistically swap them around?
On Mon, 16 Sept 2024 at 12:38, Robert Vine via <robert.vine36=[email protected]> wrote:
Hi All,
Years ago a bought a 50mm HBM 4 jaw independent chuck M12 thread for my Unimat SL. I need to do some work on reducing a couple 25x25x25mm aluminium bars to 24x24x25 and thought it might be a good idea to use my SL. However, It does appear that when I remove a jaw and reverse it, it wont move back into the chuck? Does this mean that the jaws are not reversible I seem to doubt this) and if there are not, how can I realistically swap them around?
Years ago a bought a 50mm HBM 4 jaw independent chuck M12 thread for my Unimat SL. I need to do some work on reducing a couple 25x25x25mm aluminium bars to 24x24x25 and thought it might be a good idea to use my SL. However, It does appear that when I remove
a jaw and reverse it, it wont move back into the chuck? Does this mean that the jaws are not reversible I seem to doubt this) and if there are not, how can I realistically swap them around?
Years ago a bought a 50mm HBM 4 jaw independent chuck M12 thread for my Unimat SL. I need to do some work on reducing a couple 25x25x25mm aluminium bars to 24x24x25 and thought it might be a good idea to use my SL. However, It does appear that when I remove a jaw and reverse it, it wont move back into the chuck? Does this mean that the jaws are not reversible I seem to doubt this) and if there are not, how can I realistically swap them around?
Proxxon has a much better mill than the MF70 which I would describe as rather "minimalist hobbyist" in nature for lack of a better term.
At the Proxxon USA site, the MF70 is $410.00.
I have no experience with it, but I do have the same X-Y table it uses on a Proxxon drill press I use with one of their hand motor tools.? It is inexpensively made, but surprisingly good.? But I would not think it good enough to be trying to machine things like steel.
The better Proxxon mill is the FF230 but now you are talking $1246.50.? I would put this roughly in the same class as a Sherline and except I think the Proxxon is a bit larger.
However, you can buy just the milling column of the FF230 and it is the PF230 at $895.50.? It is designed to mount on their PD250/E lathe to make a combo machine.? It comes with a small milling table to replace the lathe's top slide.
Here is a photo of it mounted to the lathe.? I have always felt that "combo" machines have a really neat look to them.? But for practicality and milling performance, a separate lathe and mill is by far superior.
Charles E. "Chuck" Kinzer
On Sunday, September 15, 2024 at 06:22:29 PM PDT, Keith S. Angus <keithsangus@...> wrote:
On the other hand if you have a milling column it would be worth finding an XY table to use with it. The Proxxon MF70 mill is far from perfect and a mill made to the usual Unimat standards would be better. They did produce a few mills with the U4 (I think) column mounted on a nice table.
On the other hand if you have a milling column it would be worth finding an XY table to use with it. The Proxxon MF70 mill is far from perfect and a mill made to the usual Unimat standards would be better. They did produce a few mills with the U4 (I think) column mounted on a nice table.
On Sun, Sep 15, 2024 at 12:43 AM, Brad Barton wrote:
I'm also in need of a new tail stock double threaded screw.
I'd think about making the tailstock screw. The smaller thread is standard M5, so dies are available, and the larger thread is M8 × 1, left handed - again dies are available, but you have to search a bit more. Also you can find sellers of M8 × 1 LH lead screws from or for Unimats on Ebay, so I think you could just cut the end off one of them and use it. Possibilities.
While it depends upon your workshop space, unless you have a mill/drill attacvhment for the C0 for free it will be a great deal more expensive than buying a separate drilling machine. A Proxxon MF70 for example comes in at just over 300UKP and will offer you more IMHO.
On 2024-09-14 16:38, clankennedy2004 via groups.io wrote:
Hi Brian, Do you have any information on the similarity between the U4 Bed and the Sieg C0 Bed ! They look identical in some photos Ive examined ! I am curious as to the feasibility of attaching a U3/U4 Mill/Drill Attachment to the Sieg C0 ! I suspect the beds are cast by the same foundry and simply rebranded. I will need to look for more photos of examples of the variations between iterations of the U3 and U4 bed to see if the C0 bed could be adapted to suit a bracket to accommodate the U3/U4 Mill/Drill. I currently see no reason why not although perhaps there is some minor variation that might make it problematic. I'm thinking bed wall thickness in the normal area might be too thin to support the height and weight of the Mill/Drill. I could design a bracket with mounting holes that would spread the load a bit more evenly however if the 'material' depth or thickness is available ! Instead of two holes I'm thinking 4 and rather that in a parallel lay out I'm thinking diagonal to help disperse load and decrease the chance of cracking ! Sorta like this :-
Hi Brian, Do you have any information on the similarity between the U4 Bed and the Sieg C0 Bed ! They look identical in some photos Ive examined ! I am curious as to the feasibility of attaching a U3/U4 Mill/Drill Attachment to the Sieg C0 ! I suspect the beds are cast by the same foundry and simply rebranded. I will need to look for more photos of examples of the variations between iterations of the U3 and U4 bed to see if the C0 bed could be adapted to suit a bracket to accommodate the U3/U4 Mill/Drill. I currently see no reason why not although perhaps there is some minor variation that might make it problematic. I'm thinking bed wall thickness in the normal area might be too thin to support the height and weight of the Mill/Drill. I could design a bracket with mounting holes that would spread the load a bit more evenly however if the 'material' depth or thickness is available ! Instead of two holes I'm thinking 4 and rather that in a parallel lay out I'm thinking diagonal to help disperse load and decrease the chance of cracking ! Sorta like this :-
The Unimat 4 & its clones had a strange sequence of
construction.
I followed it up at one time & had a number of emails to
various owners & several pics.
There were a few Unimat 4 that used the Unimat 3 bed.?
A few were actually made in Unimat 3 colours but with a Unimat 4
nameplate.
Some Unimat 4 don't have any pad or protrusion at all at the back
of the bed.
Some have a flat pad but it wasn't drilled or threaded for the
two mounting bolts.
I saw a comment about a bed being damaged when the owner did drill
it.
Lastly, some unit 4 have a flat pad with a threaded hole each
end.
The Unimat 4 Mill attachment has a casting at the bottom for the
pad.
If you want to use the Unimat 4 Mill attachment on the Unimat
three then Unimat actually released a recommendation to remove the
casting & drill the two holes in the bottom of the column to
suit the Unimat 3 V pad.
Regards,
Brian
On 14-September-2024 4:32 am,
clankennedy2004 via groups.io wrote:
Hey Guys, Ive been looking at the Emco Unimat 4 Lathe and
notice a protruding 'Pad' in the casting of the bed at the rear
of the lathe ! Its reminiscent of the 'V-Block' Protrusion on
the Unimat 3 which is used for the vertical mounting bar for the
milling head assembly !? I'm wondering, if a somewhat different
but also similar arrangement was available for the Unimat 4 ?
If not, does anyone know of perhaps plans or kits in
existence to add this capability to the Unimat 4 ?
Hey Guys, Ive been looking at the Emco Unimat 4 Lathe and notice a protruding 'Pad' in the casting of the bed at the rear of the lathe ! Its reminiscent of the 'V-Block' Protrusion on the Unimat 3 which is used for the vertical mounting bar for the milling head assembly !? I'm wondering, if a somewhat different but also similar arrangement was available for the Unimat 4 ?
If not, does anyone know of perhaps plans or kits in existence to add this capability to the Unimat 4 ?
If you have access to a good paint store they may be able to help you by running the scan of a color chip you have thru their color system. Their data bases have most all of the standard formulas, besides what they want to sell you. ?Its sort of working backwards I guess, but its gotten me out of a few jams