Re: Saw blades for the Emco Unimat jig saw accessory
I can't offer you a source, but here is the only blade I have for my jigsaw.
It is 2mm from the teeth to the back of the blade and 0.8mm thick.
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Re: Saw blades for the Emco Unimat jig saw accessory
Could you not make one ? Use a Recip Saw Blade or hacksaw blade depending on the TPI /Blade thickness you need and make it to suit. You might need to anneal the blade in some areas to drill a hole for instance. But most adaptations to the blade could be done using a cutting disc or even a grinder ! :/ Just my thoughts as I have never used this attachment nor do i own a unimat :/ Kind Regards and Good Luck.
On Wednesday, 18 September 2024 at 13:38:08 BST, michel.lebacq via groups.io <michel.lebacq@...> wrote:
Hello everybody,
Nice to discover other amateurs of the Emco Unimat!
I just removed mine from the attic where it was sleeping for more than 50 years and now I am in the process of learning to use it.
And I already come up with a question: Does anybody knows the details of the saw blade for the jig saw?
Up to now I haven't been able to find a reseller for the right size of blades. I found small blades, but they don't withstand to the fact that they are only clamped on the underside and therefore they bend after a very short use. The main use would be for fine wooden workpieces.
As I am living in Belgium, it would be nice if somebody can indicate me an Internet shop for this blades.
?
Thanks in advance!
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Saw blades for the Emco Unimat jig saw accessory
Hello everybody,
Nice to discover other amateurs of the Emco Unimat!
I just removed mine from the attic where it was sleeping for more than 50 years and now I am in the process of learning to use it.
And I already come up with a question: Does anybody knows the details of the saw blade for the jig saw?
Up to now I haven't been able to find a reseller for the right size of blades. I found small blades, but they don't withstand to the fact that they are only clamped on the underside and therefore they bend after a very short use. The main use would be for fine wooden workpieces.
As I am living in Belgium, it would be nice if somebody can indicate me an Internet shop for this blades.
?
Thanks in advance!
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Re: HBM 4 Jaw chuck for Unimat SL
Hi Richard Many thanks?for your email. I've tried and tried to reverse the jaws with?no success at all. I agree, the quality it based on how good the item is. If it's cheap then the strong chance is that it won't be any good. I decided to purchase a 65mm 4 jaw with reverse jaws using the threads as indicated by Phill. The only problem (if applicable) is that it's central and not individual.
Kind regards Rob
On Tue, 17 Sept 2024, 23:28 Richard Jones via , <randhjones= [email protected]> wrote: As with the previous topic, with the failure of a jaw on a unimat 4 jaw, which also happened to me, I had to lap the new jaws in to get a sliding fit - I don't know what material the Indian made jaws are, but the unimat look to be a monkey metal casting, and if the jaw does "snag" , the screw will tend to snap off that bit which engages with it....
Hope that makes sense....
Best wishes
Richard
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On Tue, Sep 17, 2024 at 08:54 PM, Andrei wrote:
These things are cute and probably vastly more rigid than the unimat alternative.
?
They are not. In particular the table construction using aluminium extrusions is a bit flexible. It takes some care when twiddling the handle to get a nice even cut, but, apparently, it can be fixed. If you need a relatively cheap machine for work with small cutters (max diameter ?", 3 mm) and using high revs - range 5000 to 20000 - this is a good start. However I had a few problems with the vertical feed. Once I've sorted out the table I'll post an account of all the problems. I did manage to fit a digital readout on the column, but the table is so small it's hard to find practical ones for X & Y. They're all much too big.
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Re: HBM 4 Jaw chuck for Unimat SL
As with the previous topic, with the failure of a jaw on a unimat 4 jaw, which also happened to me, I had to lap the new jaws in to get a sliding fit - I don't know what material the Indian made jaws are, but the unimat look to be a monkey metal casting, and if the jaw does "snag" , the screw will tend to snap off that bit which engages with it....
Hope that makes sense....
Best wishes
Richard
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Re: SL1000 / DB200 Parts needed
On Tue, Sep 17, 2024 at 11:13 AM, Andrei wrote:
It will probably be easier to find a whole chuck than just one jaw.
You are probably right, but it doesn't hurt to ask.
?
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Re: 795, 895 (etc) DC motors
On Wed, Sep 4, 2024 at 02:01 AM, Keith S. Angus wrote:
Here's one I drew earlier :
?
?
Keith, I've been trying to draw this out to be able to use an end mill (90 degree angle obviously) to cut the notchs between the 'blades'. Is this how you envisaged it?
?
My 3rd attempt, as you can see! Please ignore the outer circle guideline...
?
?
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I don’t see the pictures but I might be interested?
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On Sep 17, 2024, at 10:39?AM, John Hutnick via groups.io <johnhutnick@...> wrote:
? I have a Proxxon MF70 vertical mill for sale.? I got it from a collection and it appears to be new.? I removed it from the box and assembled it as shown.? I put power to it and it ran.? For shipping I will take it apart and put it back in the original box.? $335 + shipping.
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Re: SL1000 / DB200 Parts needed
It will probably be easier to find a whole chuck than just one jaw.
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I found the tail stock double threaded screw on ebay for a reasonable price, thanks for all the replies!
Now just need to find a replacement single jaw for the 4-jaw chuck?
-Brad
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Re: SL1000 / DB200 Parts needed
I found the tail stock double threaded screw on ebay for a reasonable price, thanks for all the replies!
Now just need to find a replacement single jaw for the 4-jaw chuck?
-Brad
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I have a Proxxon MF70 vertical mill for sale.? I got it from a collection and it appears to be new.? I removed it from the box and assembled it as shown.? I put power to it and it ran.? For shipping I will take it apart and put it back in the original box.? $335 + shipping.
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Re: SL1000 / DB200 Parts needed
Hi Carl! I use a threaded left hand bolt or rod from the hardware store as a master. Diameter is irrelevant as it’s the lead you are after, not the diameter.
On Tuesday, September 17, 2024, 8:07 AM, Carl via groups.io <carl.blum@...> wrote:
Hi Gang:
Since I
received a thread cutting lathe (Smithy Granite) I have tapped
thousands of hole, but only set the lathe up once for threading.
And that was to guide a tap through an intermittent hole.
Tapping is
one of the fastest way to add a thread to a part. Thread milling
might have the possibility of being more accurate, but that
depends on your CNC machine.
For external
threads I keep a stock of threaded rod on hand. So to approach
the tailstock screw I would tap the end of some M8x1 LH for the
M5 RH and Loctite it in place, or cross pin it.
Is there a
way to cut LH threads on the Unimat? Did they ever make LH
masters?
Carl.
On 9/17/2024 8:55 AM, OldToolmaker via
groups.io wrote:
Why spend money on taps and dies you when you can cut your own by
single point thread cutting? You will also end up with a superior
result if you are careful. A challenge is also good for the brain
and a chance to learn a new skill. Take your time, this is a hobby
not a speed test.
Just my 2 cents worth!!
Dick
--
http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/?OFF-SET-tailstock-center-65965#post105972
?SMALL TURRET TOOL POST PLANS?
?LARGE TURRET TOOL POST PLANS
?MINI-LATHE CARRIAGE LOCK PLANS
?SMALL QC TOOL POST PLANS?
?QUICK CHANGE LATHE TURRET
?MINI LATHE COMPOUND PIVOT MODIFICATION
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Re: SL1000 / DB200 Parts needed
Hi Gang:
Since I
received a thread cutting lathe (Smithy Granite) I have tapped
thousands of hole, but only set the lathe up once for threading.
And that was to guide a tap through an intermittent hole.
Tapping is
one of the fastest way to add a thread to a part. Thread milling
might have the possibility of being more accurate, but that
depends on your CNC machine.
For external
threads I keep a stock of threaded rod on hand. So to approach
the tailstock screw I would tap the end of some M8x1 LH for the
M5 RH and Loctite it in place, or cross pin it.
Is there a
way to cut LH threads on the Unimat? Did they ever make LH
masters?
Carl.
On 9/17/2024 8:55 AM, OldToolmaker via
groups.io wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Why spend money on taps and dies you when you can cut your own by
single point thread cutting? You will also end up with a superior
result if you are careful. A challenge is also good for the brain
and a chance to learn a new skill. Take your time, this is a hobby
not a speed test.
Just my 2 cents worth!!
Dick
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Re: SL1000 / DB200 Parts needed
Depends.
There are some holes that are too small to single point thread on some lathes.
Granted, that well done single point is much more accurate than most taps and dies.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Why spend money on taps and dies you when you can cut your own by single point thread cutting? You will also end up with a superior result if you are careful. A challenge is also good for the brain and a chance to learn a new skill. Take your time, this
is a hobby not a speed test.
Just my 2 cents worth!!
Dick
On Monday, September 16, 2024, 3:12 PM, Brad Barton via groups.io <xbartx@...> wrote:
I'd think about making the tailstock screw. The smaller thread is standard M5, so dies are available, and the larger thread is M8 × 1, left handed - again dies are available, but you have to search a bit more. Also you can find sellers of M8 × 1 LH lead
screws from or for Unimats on Ebay, so I think you could just cut the end off one of them and use it. Possibilities.
Thanks for the reply! It might come to that if I don't fine one.
-Brad
--
http://www.homemadetools.net/ forum/ ?OFF-SET-tailstock-center-65965#post105972
?SMALL
TURRET TOOL POST PLANS?
?LARGE
TURRET TOOL POST PLANS
?MINI-LATHE
CARRIAGE LOCK PLANS
?SMALL
QC TOOL POST PLANS?
?QUICK
CHANGE LATHE TURRET
?MINI
LATHE COMPOUND PIVOT MODIFICATION
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Re: SL1000 / DB200 Parts needed
Why spend money on taps and dies you when you can cut your own by single point thread cutting? You will also end up with a superior result if you are careful. A challenge is also good for the brain and a chance to learn a new skill. Take your time, this is a hobby not a speed test. Just my 2 cents worth!!
On Monday, September 16, 2024, 3:12 PM, Brad Barton via groups.io <xbartx@...> wrote:
I'd think about making the tailstock screw. The smaller thread is standard M5, so dies are available, and the larger thread is M8 × 1, left handed - again dies are available, but you have to search a bit more. Also you can find sellers of M8 × 1 LH lead screws from or for Unimats on Ebay, so I think you could just cut the end off one of them and use it. Possibilities.
Thanks for the reply! It might come to that if I don't fine one.
-Brad
--
http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/?OFF-SET-tailstock-center-65965#post105972
?SMALL TURRET TOOL POST PLANS?
?LARGE TURRET TOOL POST PLANS
?MINI-LATHE CARRIAGE LOCK PLANS
?SMALL QC TOOL POST PLANS?
?QUICK CHANGE LATHE TURRET
?MINI LATHE COMPOUND PIVOT MODIFICATION
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Re: HBM 4 Jaw chuck for Unimat SL
Robert, ? The chuck looks dirty in the photographs, as if someone had turned wood and the sawdust mixed with the grease in the chuck.? Clean all the parts thoroughly then apply a thin film of oil to the moving parts.? Make sure no swarf is hiding in the screw threads. Try sliding the jaws WITHOUT the screws into each slot, then the screws WITHOUT the jaws. Each part should move freely in each slot.? (Report if any or all are jamming).? If any stick, look for burrs and remove if any are found. ? Best of luck. ? Jerry F. ?? ?
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From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Robert Vine
Sent: Monday, September 16, 2024 8:56 AM
To: [email protected]; robert.vine36@...
Subject: Re: [Unimat] HBM 4 Jaw chuck for Unimat SL? Some pics of the 4 jaw chuck - I've no idea if this reversible. It never came with other jaw parts? ? On Mon, 16 Sept 2024 at 12:38, Robert Vine via <robert.vine36=[email protected]> wrote: Years ago a bought a 50mm HBM 4 jaw independent chuck M12 thread for my Unimat SL. I need to do some work on reducing a couple 25x25x25mm aluminium bars to 24x24x25 and thought it might be a good idea to use my SL. However, It does appear that when I remove a jaw and reverse it, it wont move back into the chuck? Does this mean that the jaws are not reversible I seem to doubt this) and if there are not, how can I realistically swap them around? Any advice will be most greatly received.
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Re: SL1000 / DB200 Parts needed
I'd think about making the tailstock screw. The smaller thread is standard M5, so dies are available, and the larger thread is M8 × 1, left handed - again dies are available, but you have to search a bit more. Also you can find sellers of M8 × 1 LH lead screws from or for Unimats on Ebay, so I think you could just cut the end off one of them and use it. Possibilities.
Thanks for the reply! It might come to that if I don't fine one.
-Brad
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OldToolmaker
Carl