Re: UNIMAT 3 Watchmaker precision package
Gerry the folder was empty as per my screenshot previously there was nothing to click on to download.
Herman, Thank you they are all in the folder and download as predicted, I was really looking forward to seeing them thank you.
Phill?
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Re: UNIMAT 3 Watchmaker precision package
You are both right – and both wrong. ? If you look closely you will see that when you click on the link, instead of opening the file, it downloads it, but to the “Downloads” file of your computer.? Unless you purposely go there to retrieve it, it will appear that the file did not do anything.? Took me a couple of tries before I noticed that. ? As the label on the catch-all drawer in my old lab used to say, “SEEK AND YE SHALL FIND”.? I learned to look there first for anything that was missing ? Jerry F. ?
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From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Herman de Leeuw via groups.io
Sent: Thursday, June 20, 2024 10:40 AM
To: [email protected]; Herman de Leeuw via groups.io; phill005
Subject: Re: [Unimat] UNIMAT 3 Watchmaker precision package? Here's another try ... when I first uploaded this, I uploaded all 10 scans in one go and apparently that did not go well with the server. Now I uploaded all 10 scans individually and that seems to work. Check for yourself here Op 20-06-2024 17:51 CEST schreef Herman de Leeuw via groups.io <herman.deleeuw@...>: Well, I uploaded some 8 scans in jpeg format but if it should be pdf I will scan anew.
Van: phill005 via groups.io <phill05@...>
Verzonden: donderdag, juni 20, 2024 4:34 PM
Aan: Herman de Leeuw <herman.deleeuw@...>; [email protected] <[email protected]>
Onderwerp: Re: [Unimat] UNIMAT 3 Watchmaker precision package Nothing in the folder?
Phill
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Re: UNIMAT 3 Watchmaker precision package
Here's another try ... when I first uploaded this, I uploaded all 10 scans in one go and apparently that did not go well with the server. Now I uploaded all 10 scans individually and that seems to work. Check for yourself here
?
Herman
Op 20-06-2024 17:51 CEST schreef Herman de Leeuw via groups.io <herman.deleeuw@...>:
?
?
?
Well, I uploaded some 8 scans in jpeg format but if it should be pdf I will scan anew.
?
Van: phill005 via groups.io <phill05@...>
Verzonden: donderdag, juni 20, 2024 4:34 PM
Aan: Herman de Leeuw <herman.deleeuw@...>; [email protected] <[email protected]>
Onderwerp: Re: [Unimat] UNIMAT 3 Watchmaker precision package
?
Nothing in the folder?
Phill
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Re: UNIMAT 3 Watchmaker precision package
Well, I uploaded some 8 scans in jpeg format but if it should be pdf I will scan anew.
?
Van: phill005 via groups.io <phill05@...>
Verzonden: donderdag, juni 20, 2024 4:34 PM
Aan: Herman de Leeuw <herman.deleeuw@...>; [email protected] <[email protected]>
Onderwerp: Re: [Unimat] UNIMAT 3 Watchmaker precision package? Nothing in the folder? Phill
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Re: UNIMAT 3 Watchmaker precision package
I am not seeing anything: 
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Re: UNIMAT 3 Watchmaker precision package
The files are there, just a level up. Sort by created date and they're the newest files in the list (until someone else uploads something, anyway). - Dwayne On Thursday, June 20, 2024 at 10:34:52 AM EDT, phill005 via groups.io <phill05@...> wrote: Nothing in the folder? Phill
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Re: UNIMAT 3 Watchmaker precision package
Nothing in the folder?
Phill
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UNIMAT 3 Watchmaker precision package
Good day, A few weeks ago I acquired a number of items of the UNIMAT 3 Watchmaker Precision Package that seems to have been introduced around August 1983. Along with the watchmaker disc, the hand toolrest and the colletholder (without the Schaublin/Wolfensberger or Bergion B8 collets .. ) came a number of pages in the? EMCO style that shows the 4 items included in the watchmaker precision package, plus exploded views of each item.? I scanned these pages and put them in this? new folder - UNIMAT 3 watchmaker precision packageNow still looking for the single toolholder, which I might probably just as well try to produce myself.?
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Ha, had the bets on wrong for the pics. Also, I think the 3/16 o-rings would put much more tension on the bearings. 
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Thank you, good information, however I am not mucking up my soldering iron when I can buy silicone o-rings on ebay for ~$10 for two 5 packs (seller oringsandmore). After buying many o rings in the wrong size, here are the -227 and -237 o-rings on my lathe (no slow speed attachment to try, sorry). The 1/8" 3.2 mm cord (-2xx) seems to fit better than 3/16" (recommended above (-341). I also included a picture of it with a -241 (same diameter as -341, what it came with) only using two pulleys. My large pulleys are od: 8.6 cm spindle, 4.2 cm motor. I stopped the spindle with both configurations (having trouble with tailstock tension) and the belts did not slip.   
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On Tue, Jun 18, 2024 at 04:58 PM, paul b wrote:
Keith - where can you get tiny (.5mm tip) centre drills in the UK please? I could do with one when drilling and reaming .97mm holes in small train wheels.
I only use Dormer or Guhring for precision work like that, and they're not cheap. I had a look around and came up with Ebay (UK) Item 115952491255 (cheapest), 126419613824, 165136650221. These are all 0.8 mm tips, which will be less likely to break than 0.5 mm - as I have discovered. Also at Cromwell tools: ? (0.5 mm) ? (Sherwood, 0.8 mm) And the ultimate collection from Drill Services, from 0.3 mm on up. The prices look steep but the common ones are not so bad. See the range: When I was trying to drill accurate 1.0 mm holes in brass I found it best to start with a 0.9 mm drill and then follow with a good quality 1.0 mm drill. This gave a 0.99 mm hole, which just needed a light cut with a hand reamer to get a nice fit. When I tried to drill the right size (since the drills always cut oversize) I tried 0.96 and 0.97 mm, but the hole size depended on which size of brass bar I was drilling. Doing it in two stages gave much more consistent results, and the second drill does not cut oversize. I may have 0.96 & 0.97 drills spare if you want to try them. Contact at keithsangus (at) gmail.com for further discussion of you like.
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Thanks, just ordered one (and a gear puller). I'm not too worried about delicate, the last job on the Unimat involved drilling .4mm holes.
Paul B.
On Tuesday 18 June 2024 at 18:23:14 BST, carlos vasco <carles.vasco@...> wrote:
Hi Paul, I got one from Hobby Holidays (and I broke it shortly afterwards...., they are delicate)
Carlos
K&S brass is dreadful stuff to machine - I wouldn't touch the stuff. CZ121 is far better.
Keith - where can you get tiny (.5mm tip) centre drills in the UK please? I could do with one when drilling and reaming .97mm holes in small train wheels.
Paul B.
On Monday 17 June 2024 at 20:46:57 BST, Keith S. Angus < keithsangus@...> wrote:
On Mon, Jun 17, 2024 at 04:11 AM, Tamra wrote:
some of the brass I had from K & S did not seem like it was 260 brass as it machined quite differently
I bought some K&S brass bar and found it was a pig to drill. I finally realised that it was not the hard brass that I wanted (known to me as CZ121) but was gilding metal, which is the softest brass, and far from free machining - but great for shaping, bending and general pulling about. I then discovered 2021 free machining aluminium and used that. So I now avoid K&S materials when the particular alloy will matter. And it always matters when machining. Another thing that would help with your drilling problem is to start the hole with a centre drill. One with a tip the same size, or a little smaller, as the final hole you want to drill. I have centre drills with tips down to 0.5 mm. For all I know even smaller ones are available. They are designed not to wobble as you start the hole.?
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Hi Paul, I got one from Hobby Holidays (and I broke it shortly afterwards...., they are delicate)
Carlos
K&S brass is dreadful stuff to machine - I wouldn't touch the stuff. CZ121 is far better.
Keith - where can you get tiny (.5mm tip) centre drills in the UK please? I could do with one when drilling and reaming .97mm holes in small train wheels.
Paul B.
On Monday 17 June 2024 at 20:46:57 BST, Keith S. Angus < keithsangus@...> wrote:
On Mon, Jun 17, 2024 at 04:11 AM, Tamra wrote:
some of the brass I had from K & S did not seem like it was 260 brass as it machined quite differently
I bought some K&S brass bar and found it was a pig to drill. I finally realised that it was not the hard brass that I wanted (known to me as CZ121) but was gilding metal, which is the softest brass, and far from free machining - but great for shaping, bending and general pulling about. I then discovered 2021 free machining aluminium and used that. So I now avoid K&S materials when the particular alloy will matter. And it always matters when machining. Another thing that would help with your drilling problem is to start the hole with a centre drill. One with a tip the same size, or a little smaller, as the final hole you want to drill. I have centre drills with tips down to 0.5 mm. For all I know even smaller ones are available. They are designed not to wobble as you start the hole.?
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Re: Unimat DB200 Adjustments
I discovered my problem and It was the hand crank. It has a nut on the end that likes to wind off. I will come up with a solution.
Dick
--
http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/?OFF-SET-tailstock-center-65965#post105972
?SMALL TURRET TOOL POST PLANS?
?LARGE TURRET TOOL POST PLANS
?MINI-LATHE CARRIAGE LOCK PLANS
?SMALL QC TOOL POST PLANS?
?QUICK CHANGE LATHE TURRET
?MINI LATHE COMPOUND PIVOT MODIFICATION
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K&S brass is dreadful stuff to machine - I wouldn't touch the stuff. CZ121 is far better.
Keith - where can you get tiny (.5mm tip) centre drills in the UK please? I could do with one when drilling and reaming .97mm holes in small train wheels.
Paul B.
On Monday 17 June 2024 at 20:46:57 BST, Keith S. Angus <keithsangus@...> wrote:
On Mon, Jun 17, 2024 at 04:11 AM, Tamra wrote:
some of the brass I had from K & S did not seem like it was 260 brass as it machined quite differently
I bought some K&S brass bar and found it was a pig to drill. I finally realised that it was not the hard brass that I wanted (known to me as CZ121) but was gilding metal, which is the softest brass, and far from free machining - but great for shaping, bending and general pulling about. I then discovered 2021 free machining aluminium and used that. So I now avoid K&S materials when the particular alloy will matter. And it always matters when machining. Another thing that would help with your drilling problem is to start the hole with a centre drill. One with a tip the same size, or a little smaller, as the final hole you want to drill. I have centre drills with tips down to 0.5 mm. For all I know even smaller ones are available. They are designed not to wobble as you start the hole.?
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I was selling Polyurethane belts for a few years on eBay but finally gave up due to domestic work, mainly garden, took over. Dimensions I used were : ? UNIMAT SL? (dimensions before welding) 310mm and 205mm for the two standard belts
224mm for the Slow Speed. ? UNIMAT 3 & 4 (dimensions before welding)
280mm and 228mm for standard belts
143mm for power feed attachment (3.5mm belting) ? ML-210 VERSIONS OF TOYO, RECORD POWER, PROXXON, SAKAY? 296mm, 275mm and 254mm for standard belts 235mm for Power Feed (3.5mm belting) ? All the above were 5mm belting except for the Power Feed belts marked at 3.5mm. ? It seemed that users wanted the 5mm material, but I use 4mm belting on my SL as it fits the pulleys better than the 5mm and is more than capable of coping with with the cuts I make. ? Don’t make them any longer but you can check my? feedback on eBay? “ SILVERLDZ “ ? Bernard ? ? ? ?
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From: AndreiSent: 18 June 2024 15:48 To: [email protected]; jentwistle3@...Subject: Re: [Unimat] DB/SL Belt Sizes? ? Has anybody actually measured the o-rings to determine the correct size for the belts, or are we all operating from second hand information? 
cool, thanks! ?
On Jun 18, 2024, at 12:22?AM, Peter ashby via groups.io <aescinga.pgen@...> wrote:
? When I join polypropylene? belting material for the smaller sizes(2mm) I cut a vee notch in a pair of pliers- on the ends of the jaws, heat up the end of the belts then close the pliers, this brings the ends together and you should have a donut section that's thicker at the join, trim this off carefully when it's hard with a pair of side cutters and you should get a perfect join, this should also work with thicker belts, that or use a vee groove to keep? the belts aligned? as you slide them together. ?
how do you stick the ends together I’ve not had much success with “o ring” kits
On Jun 17, 2024, at 4:02?PM, byron williams <bdkwilliams@...> wrote:
? Hi guys I used to buy o rings belt properly made belts, then the ? came on!! I now buy 5-6mm polypropylene from any plastic company on line, cut it and melt it together any length,? A bit of a job to start off, but after a bit I got it to work fine? I now have belts for any combination including the power feed
On 17 Jun 2024, at 20:01, Andrei <calciu1@...> wrote:
? Those sizes sound very small. My SL1000 uses a? 341 O-ring. The size you quote is very far off what I saw on my lathe.? 
After trying many o-ring sizes I ended up with the following to fit my DB200:
-227 small drive
-237 large drive
My lathe came with a single o-ring that would work on one of the motor pulleys and the matching spindle pulley. This was:
-241 skip idler
Happy turning!
?
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Has anybody actually measured the o-rings to determine the correct size for the belts, or are we all operating from second hand information?
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cool, thanks!
On Jun 18, 2024, at 12:22?AM, Peter ashby via groups.io <aescinga.pgen@...> wrote:
?
When I join polypropylene? belting material for the smaller sizes(2mm) I cut a vee notch in a pair of pliers- on the ends of the jaws, heat up the end of the belts then close the pliers, this brings the ends together and you should have a donut
section that's thicker at the join, trim this off carefully when it's hard with a pair of side cutters and you should get a perfect join, this should also work with thicker belts, that or use a vee groove to keep? the belts aligned? as you slide them together.
how do you stick the ends together I’ve not had much success with “o ring” kits
On Jun 17, 2024, at 4:02?PM, byron williams <bdkwilliams@...> wrote:
? Hi guys
I used to buy o rings belt properly made belts, then the ? came on!!
I now buy 5-6mm polypropylene from any plastic company on line, cut it and melt it together any length,?
A bit of a job to start off, but after a bit I got it to work fine?
I now have belts for any combination including the power feed
Byron
On 17 Jun 2024, at 20:01, Andrei <calciu1@...> wrote:
?
Those sizes sound very small. My SL1000 uses a? 341 O-ring.
The size you quote is very far off what I saw on my lathe.?
After trying many o-ring sizes I ended up with the following to fit my DB200:
-227 small drive
-237 large drive
My lathe came with a single o-ring that would work on one of the motor pulleys and the matching spindle pulley. This was:
-241 skip idler
Happy turning!
|
I have been trying to adjust my Unimat cross slide for a nice smooth movement. The adjustment is somewhat sloppy.
Can anyone shed some light on the adjustment?
Dick
--
http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/?OFF-SET-tailstock-center-65965#post105972
?SMALL TURRET TOOL POST PLANS?
?LARGE TURRET TOOL POST PLANS
?MINI-LATHE CARRIAGE LOCK PLANS
?SMALL QC TOOL POST PLANS?
?QUICK CHANGE LATHE TURRET
?MINI LATHE COMPOUND PIVOT MODIFICATION
|
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jun 18, 2024, at 12:22?AM, Peter ashby via groups.io <aescinga.pgen@...> wrote: ? When I join polypropylene? belting material for the smaller sizes(2mm) I cut a vee notch in a pair of pliers- on the ends of the jaws, heat up the end of the belts then close the pliers, this brings the ends together and you should have a donut section that's thicker at the join, trim this off carefully when it's hard with a pair of side cutters and you should get a perfect join, this should also work with thicker belts, that or use a vee groove to keep? the belts aligned? as you slide them together.
how do you stick the ends together I’ve not had much success with “o ring” kits
On Jun 17, 2024, at 4:02?PM, byron williams <bdkwilliams@...> wrote:
?
Hi guys
I used to buy o rings belt properly made belts, then the ? came on!!
I now buy 5-6mm polypropylene from any plastic company on line, cut it and melt it together any length,?
A bit of a job to start off, but after a bit I got it to work fine?
I now have belts for any combination including the power feed
Byron
On 17 Jun 2024, at 20:01, Andrei <calciu1@...> wrote:
?
Those sizes sound very small. My SL1000 uses a? 341 O-ring.
The size you quote is very far off what I saw on my lathe.?
After trying many o-ring sizes I ended up with the following to fit my DB200:
-227 small drive
-237 large drive
My lathe came with a single o-ring that would work on one of the motor pulleys and the matching spindle pulley. This was:
-241 skip idler
Happy turning!
|
When I join polypropylene? belting material for the smaller sizes(2mm) I cut a vee notch in a pair of pliers- on the ends of the jaws, heat up the end of the belts then close the pliers, this brings the ends together and you should have a donut section that's thicker at the join, trim this off carefully when it's hard with a pair of side cutters and you should get a perfect join, this should also work with thicker belts, that or use a vee groove to keep? the belts aligned? as you slide them together.
how do you stick the ends together I’ve not had much success with “o ring” kits
On Jun 17, 2024, at 4:02?PM, byron williams <bdkwilliams@...> wrote:
?
Hi guys
I used to buy o rings belt properly made belts, then the ? came on!!
I now buy 5-6mm polypropylene from any plastic company on line, cut it and melt it together any length,?
A bit of a job to start off, but after a bit I got it to work fine?
I now have belts for any combination including the power feed
Byron
On 17 Jun 2024, at 20:01, Andrei <calciu1@...> wrote:
?
Those sizes sound very small. My SL1000 uses a? 341 O-ring.
The size you quote is very far off what I saw on my lathe.?
After trying many o-ring sizes I ended up with the following to fit my DB200:
-227 small drive
-237 large drive
My lathe came with a single o-ring that would work on one of the motor pulleys and the matching spindle pulley. This was:
-241 skip idler
Happy turning!
|
Herman de Leeuw
MtnMikes.us
OldToolmaker
John Entwistle