"I was very happy with rustoleum's hammered dark bronze as far as looks go.? Enough that I hated removing it.? But after leaving them untouched for a few days then just kinda poking at it a bit I had no faith that it'd be a durable coating."
- From my experience Rustoleum Hammered paint dries for a very long time, sometimes a week. but it will harden eventually.

No, it's not just YOUR screen - it's everybody's screens.? Colors on a screen will never match the real-life Mark I eyeball interpretation of the actual color.

I just realized my pictures make that powder a lot more blue than it is in person.? It's a pretty standard green/dark green in person.? Or maybe its just my screen lol

I did it myself.? I've always found powder coating to be a bit of a cheat code on good finishes, I find it hard to screw up.? I don't have the same luck with paint typically.? I just use a toaster oven for the curing.?

No bead blasting, mostly out of laziness but I was also concerned about the precision/machined surfaces.? I stripped it of paint using paint stripper and/or some time in an ultrasonic cleaner then scuffed it a bit with sandpaper, taped up any surface I felt was "precision", plugged holes and hit with powder.?

I was very happy with rustoleum's hammered dark bronze as far as looks go.? Enough that I hated removing it.? But after leaving them untouched for a few days then just kinda poking at it a bit I had no faith that it'd be a durable coating.? I didn't want to get it slapped together and end up redoing it a few months down the road.? I'm not sure what I did wrong.? I tried some straight to metal, some with two different self etching primers, none of them came out durable enough to inspire any confidence.

glad to see that you got good results from the powder coating process, hats off to your vendor, or did you do yourself? I ask because I have found the process to be rather problematic, often from the heat involved. were your parts media blasted? all said, I've yet to find a good sprayed hammertone product ?
cheers

That was my thinking @ color, and also not a collector.? I just want it to look good, be protected and durable and ready to get to work.? Plus I've never used a hammertone powder before so it gave me an excuse lol.?

Both headstocks look pristine and have the Red
Label.?
--
http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/?OFF-SET-tailstock-center-65965#post105972
?SMALL TURRET TOOL POST PLANS?
?LARGE TURRET TOOL POST PLANS
?MINI-LATHE CARRIAGE LOCK PLANS
?SMALL QC TOOL POST PLANS?
?QUICK CHANGE LATHE TURRET
?MINI LATHE COMPOUND PIVOT MODIFICATION

I have two of the cast iron DB200 models and they appear to be of the same vintage.?

Dick
--
http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/?OFF-SET-tailstock-center-65965#post105972
?SMALL TURRET TOOL POST PLANS?
?LARGE TURRET TOOL POST PLANS
?MINI-LATHE CARRIAGE LOCK PLANS
?SMALL QC TOOL POST PLANS?
?QUICK CHANGE LATHE TURRET
?MINI LATHE COMPOUND PIVOT MODIFICATION

--
James Batchelor?
Dunfermline, Fife, UK.?
07805 207238

Paul,

Thank you, it looks like its the way I must go.

Regards

Dave
Borneo Island

Whoops, attached the wrong pic.? This one is with the headstock

I'm making some questionable decisions but I wanted to refinish one of them and make it look as pristine as I could.?

I was going to use a rattle can hammered finish, found a color I liked.? It didn't take me long to decide I wasn't happy with its durability though so I switched to powder coating.? I'm pretty satisfied with this so far.? I know there are a few reasons one wouldn't want to do that on a precision machine but I'm ok with the risks.? The headstock didn't come out as good as the rest, I forgot to pre bake it to offgas.? Whoops.? Not sure I care enough to redo it though.? Stripping powder coating is a bear.?

Once I finish coating parts, most of the bare steel parts I'm going to give a thin nickel plate and polish up. ? Then just regrease things and get it all assembled and ready to roll. ?

Just a different idea for safety but may be not for the Unimat :-)

I picked up a couple of Conveyor Belt protection switches a while ago.
They have a spring loaded cord arrangement that cuts power if the cord
loosens off or is pushed.

I will be setting up an electrical / electronics test bench shortly &
one of them will be fitted spaced a couple of inches in front of the
bench as an emergency shut off & up higher so you don't need to look for
an Emergency Off button to cut the power - although there will be a
couple of the usual bright red mushroom head buttons prominently visible
as well.

I suppose that I could make it so that power is only on for brief
testing if I am leaning on it.

I know the rules say to never work alone on electrical but I don't realy
have a choice - just make things as safe as I can & maake it safer for
my wife to cut power if it is ever needed.
Better one injury than two...

Regards,
Brian.

I am looking for the specs on two parts, from the Autofeed attachment for Unimat SL
1) Compression Spring (A2Z 300 110) that goes into right baseplate pressing outward on Swinging section to maintain contact between wormgears.
2) Disk Spring (ZFD 94 2301) this maintain alignment of worm to gearing.

Can someone help.

Manuel Ceuma Reverter <mcr6025@...> deleted the photo album Mis tornos Emco

Dave,
I had the opposite happen with my motor change I got a 24V DC and made a controller box but had a lot of noise from it, a friend gave me a 220V AC motor off a small lathe I made up a controller and found it far better, I powered the same pulleys on the SL/DB so I could get really low speed when needed with lots of torque and I am more than happy in how it all works.
If you had been closer I would have offered you the DC setup to try on yours.

Phill?

All,?

Thanks for the info regarding the motor, I was not aware the AC motors were so noisy so it looks like I will need to go for the DC scooter motor. I have such a small space to work I will have to try to mount the transformer and speed control somewhere else to avoid cluttering up my work space.

Regards

Dave
Borneo Island

开云体育

John, thats interesting..... When I put on the toothed belt drive mechanical noise was far from my mind. I had just seen the "blurb" on the "new" unimat 4 which came ( as I remember ) with a tooth belt drive. I decided that was the way to go. Being an electical engineer I designed and made a controller for it (A linear one ! ) complete with a small dc motor on the back of the main motor to act as "tacho feedback" . I think I remember checking the smoothness of current drawn and didn't see any ripple in it. Certainly I have never noticed any mechanical effects on the surface of of the work piece. The motor shown is not the original that I used in the conversion. The original was a flat pancake servo motor from a large line printer. That motor was very smooth indeed....doing 0 to 10,000 rpm in about 1 second ! (the controller had a several second ramp built in for comfort).
Bob