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Re: New aftermarket motor db200 lathe
On Friday, April 12, 2024, 11:13 PM, David James via groups.io <davebjames@...> wrote:
-- http://www.homemadetools.net/ ?SMALL TURRET TOOL POST PLANS? ?LARGE TURRET TOOL POST PLANS ?MINI- ?SMALL QC TOOL POST PLANS? ?QUICK CHANGE LATHE TURRET ?MINI LATHE COMPOUND PIVOT MODIFICATION |
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Re: New aftermarket motor db200 lathe
Dave, there are very great differences between an AC series connected motor and the DC motors and their controllers that must be understood before you make a choice.
The orginal selection of an AC series connected ?motor was made for several reasons (largely cost I suspect). An AC series motor has a very good (high) top speed but a terrible load regulation. In that it is very forgiving of "chuck crashes" and a such not a bad selection for a what could be considered a beginners lathe which is small enough that it is easy to get fingers mixed up in the works. A DC motor and a proper "chopper" speed controller are the exact opposite in that what ever speed is selected the motor will try and maintain what ever the load upto the current limit of the controller. Thats very good for quality finishes and large amounts of metal removal ( compared to the AC motor anyway). And of course being able to set the speed perfectly for required cut ( and not have to keep changing belt settings). The controller reference "pot" can always be hooked up to foot pedal if required.? For me changing to a DC drive was a "no brainer" I went to a much larger motor but only used a fixed toothed belt drive with only one high speed ratio. The result was a very wide chuck speed range without having to keep changing pulley ratios, but still acceptable maximum torque (plus a minature DC breaker to control chuck crashes). Please excuse the "condition" of the lathe other dusty operations are ongoing. Bob |
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Re: New aftermarket motor db200 lathe
On Sat, Apr 13, 2024 at 06:13 AM, David James wrote:
My old cast iron unimat has some strange motor (220v) on it which is very noisy.?Sewing machine motors are generally not very quiet either. I have such a howler on my Pillar Tool, which I built according to the drawings by G.H.Thomas. The foot switch is a disaster. I have not yet understood how it works. So when you buy it, make sure which foot switch is included. The mechanical switches are no good. But a motor with approx. 150 -180 watts should be enough. When buying, you also have to pay attention to the direction of rotation, which is left and right. The motor should always run clockwise when looking at the shaft end. Greetings Bruno |
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New aftermarket motor db200 lathe
My old cast iron unimat has some strange motor (220v) on it which is very noisy.?
I want to replace it with something else, I see a lot of folks moved to the dc option with transformers and speed control. I would prefer to stay with 220v ac. I was looking at sowing machine motors with a foot control, any suggestios or ideas would be much appreciated. Dave Borneo |
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Re: AR Warner HSS Inserts?
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýOne advantage, though it ?may seem counter intuitive, is that they are HSS not carbide. Really sharp HSS actually works better than carbide on smaller machines. I am a big fan of Warner HSS inserts.
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AR Warner HSS Inserts?
Has anyone had direct experience with AR Warner HSS inserts?
-- http://www.homemadetools.net/ ?SMALL TURRET TOOL POST PLANS? ?LARGE TURRET TOOL POST PLANS ?MINI- ?SMALL QC TOOL POST PLANS? ?QUICK CHANGE LATHE TURRET ?MINI LATHE COMPOUND PIVOT MODIFICATION |
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Re: Multi-purpose press tool
The original model was intended to be a ¡®Dremel¡¯ drill press. I liked the robust design of the column and rack gear operation, so I adopted it as the starting point. It had an insert to hold the rotary tool and two threaded spots to anchor that.?
I have added ¡®tool heads¡¯ and changed the way they are inserted into the main housing. Originally they were installed from the bottom. I didn¡¯t like that so it changed. Now they go in from the top and are firmly anchored in 3 places.? Above are two tool heads. One is blank for future use and the other holds the soldering iron for use with heat inserts.? That¡¯s the iron installed in the tool head.? And the tool head assembly installed and ready for use.? During the build I found various knobs for use on the machine and designed a few installation bits too. I like to print spares while making small parts like this. They will come in handy I¡¯m sure.? I added shims (made of aluminum flashing) to tighten the tool head holder on the rack gear. The fit was fine as originally designed, but I wanted a more stable setup. This worked perfectly. Those shims with the addition to an adjustable gib on the left side of the tool head holder makes it possible to lock the head in one position or adjust the up and down movement to the desired tension. The gib itself is made from a bit of polyethylene (I think) from a broken Sterilite storage box. Nice and soft and slick.? Of course I added the knobs to the adjustment bolts.? The tapping head is on the printer now. I still need to add a spring, the original design has a spring loaded ¡®carrier¡¯ to keep the main tool head holder at a given height and give a spring powered movement.? |
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Multi-purpose press tool
I¡¯ve created a little machine by mixing various 3d printed models I found online and adding my own Tinkercad bits.?
It is designed to help with creating accessories for the Unimat and other tools. It facilitates tapping alignment, hot insert additions to 3d models and probably a lot more to be discovered yet.? It facilitates tapping alignment, adding hot thread inserts to 3d models and probably much more to yet be discovered.? °ä´Ç²Ô³Ù¾±²Ô³Ü±ð»å¡ |
OldToolmaker
Bruno
David James
Tom Angell