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Nevadablue, Sketchup has a free viewer, however it will not let you disassemble the model. They also have a free web app that will do that but has limited capabilities. I personally use an older, free

WOW! That is impressive. It would be easy to make a set of parts like Phill suggested. After you complete the ‘standard’ version, just add 20mm to the 3 places and have another set of parts for

That sounds interesting. Is there a way to see the file without sketchup?

The following files and folders have been uploaded to the Files area of the [email protected] group. * /3D Print Models/Unimat Step Z Drive.skp (

Rick, Looking good just a thought but would it make sense to make the head and tail stock lift 20mm higher? Phill

Progress so far.? I can tell I missed the mark on some of the draft angles on the bed, but the surfaces that matter are all spot on.? I might go back and revise later after I get some more important

1/12th brass bed....of a unimat lathe or?

I really want to 3d print, learn to mold and cast in brass... that is the other goal... that I've been working toward... bought small kiln and small vacuum chamber too... Right now, must finish the

From Don, 5) TinkerCAD and Sketch-up... I've seen people make some really fantastic stuff with these, but to me they didn't seem all that precise - so I never looked at them very hard.? I'm probably

Hi: I used a 60 RPM gear motor for this chop saw, cuts great. First motor was $10, burned a winding after a heavy cut. Still available:

For sure I meant DIY making. Not for sale. I just watched Adam Savage spend countless hours upgrading a $39 Harbor freight mini chop saw. Obviously (LOL) not for resale, but for his own satisfaction.

I agree with all the above. ;-) Either orientation is good probably. Like Don said, watch the rough hole size as compared to the finished (bored) size and make sure you leave enough wall thickness.

"CNC Kitchen" probably, he has a lot of good content running tests like that.? We actually made a similar tensile test machine to his here at work after seeing it

One thing to remember when 3D printing, then machining that object to size...? Unless you're printing with 100% infill, you've got to be sure your perimeter walls are thick enough that you will still

It's on my todo list to actually cast some of these parts in aluminum since its a process I enjoy.? I have my doubts that could be done small scale any cheaper than the inflated prices though.? For

I agree and that’s why I’m wavering on the material for the screw. I was trying to avoid turning the steel. ;-) but it is a small part and will be mostly threaded, so I guess it really isn’t a

This is true.? My first thought with the orientation I used was making it as concentric as possible.? Something I never had great luck with horizontally.? I never thought to just bore it afterwards

Oh, small diameter horizontal holes typically don’t need support so printing with the main housing horizontal (and a smaller ID bore) should be easy actually.

I like the idea and especially like the idea of boring from the headstock. But, remember that the weakest way to print a tube is vertically. I’ve been looking at printing it horizontally, which

hah I never thought about boring it out.? that'd have a lot of benefits.? smoother bore, more perfect size and alignment etc. Here's another with the bore 2mm undersized to leave plenty of material