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I would only use Baltic birch for all panels.? I do not see many other choices.? Get a Minwax stain chart from the hardware store.? Something should be close. Are you staining after cutting and

Yes, I see what you mean now. I've had trouble with box joints in birch ply as well. My box sides looks a lot like pine to me - a softwood with uneven grain and some good size knots. You could plane

I have had bad luck cutting clean box joints in plywood. I mentioned above, however, that I have some nice 6 mm (.25") Baltic birch plywood (from a subwoofer enclosure project I did) that would work

Mine is prime example of how good it is!!!

IMO, the original boxes are made of some pretty cheap wood. I'd opt for using a much better wood and staining it to be close to the original color. My go-to for these sorts of projects is Baltic

Hey, folks… I have increased the footprint and height of my SL (addition of the power feed, a baseplate, and a QCTP) so that the use of the original box is no longer possible. I want to copy the box

Yup paper chips are always less expensive than metal chips. Designs lead by manufacturing capabilities are always more successful. I remember Nimonic maybe 400? being considered for our highest

When Dad designed his experimental plant to determine the properties of steam at high temperature and pressure (800°C, 1000 Bar - 1472°F, 14500 psi) everything had to be made of Nimonic - primarily

It is 3/4 - 1" river stone. The pile is spare for the driveway. It makes a fair backdrop. Where we live(NJ) it is all clay, basaltic rock, shale. [email protected]> wrote:

John, Nice job on the SL! I like your vertical micrometer adjustment! From your picture it appears you might live in an area with a lot of small smooth stones. It reminds me of the ?north shore of

That is a really cool story. Reminded me of my college days. I grew up in central NY and got a scholarship to go away to school at Wentworth Institute of Technology in Boston. Those days Wentworth was

So prior to my commercial Nuclear Power plant days, I was an ET (electronics technician) in the Navy, specialty was Reactor Operator in submarines, actually I was the Leading Reactor Operator on both

The work hardening issue is common among all austenitic stainless alloys all the way up to the high nickel super alloys like inconels and monels. The degree of severity seems to be directly correlated

Reminds me of some of the Stainless steels that work harden. I worked it a plant that made Handi Wrap, a plastic food wrap. Everything was either Stainless or Aluminum. The "boys" in the maintaince

From my naive bolt queries to nuclear fusion in one thread…. I just love internet forums! ?:-)

In a nuclear fusion vessel after producing neutrons and activation of the structural components, half lives of these elements are days or months, not decades…… Also some of the specialized

I am just guessing here, (as I missed my chance in school to take the reactor operator class), but aside from being light weight, strong, and corrosion resistant, many of the “exotic” metals like

Both Titanium and aluminum are extremely susceptible to galling. Most likely they cold welded every time. Anodizing or lube are both good practices. Both aluminum and titanium come from the reactive

So here is one for the Titanium boys.? I worked as an instrument technician at a Nuclear Generating plant.? The instrument containers for the nuclear detectors were made of aluminum about 8in in

My apologies. Nitinol wire shrinks when heated or when current passes through it. It does it a lot and with large relative force hence the name muscle wire. When you tap titanium it shrinks around its