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Hello Richard: Adjusted for British inflation ?33 is worth ?780 today, or $975. Plus you can't buy a new Unimat anymore. Thanks for publishing the Advert, always fun to read and dream. Carl.

I guess that’s part of the attraction of the machine in nostalgic reminiscence. Childhood trips up to London to visit Colonel Beattie’s business and Hamblings too, with a scrap of paper listing

Hi, Here's an advert? from the June 1964 Railway Modeller for the unimat as being sold by Beatties of London... best wishes Richard

I’ve never had a unimat show up on my doorstep, but lots of other equipment has, so I guess I shouldn’t feel left out! -Dave

Hi Steve, The first one showed up on my doorstep about 23 years ago. The second Unimat made its appearance about 12 years ago, so they haven’t exactly been plentiful. Dick --

I wish I knew how to replicate your talent of attracting Unimats at your doorstep! Maybe wear a necklace made of sections of aluminum/brass rod? ? I'm actually feeling very lucky to have the 1.75x

Thanks, Kevin I was given a fully tooled up Cast Iron DB200 with all the bells, whistles and tooling in very good condition. ?I also have a cast iron DB200 lathe bed in good condition. I hope to be

If the SL1000 comes with the U100 motor, it's the best - no duty cycle worries. -Dave

Early variations of identical models were labeled as DB200 in the USA, and SL1000 in Europe so it isn't such a simple question. But, the early Unimats with cast iron beds are better because they have

In lathe mode I prefer the cast Iron DB200, the Mass helps dampen vibration. in Mill mode I like the SL1000’s larger vertical post adapter which provides wider support to the spindle head.

Opinions please! Which is better and why? DB200 or SL1000? -- http://www.homemadetools.net/ forum/ OFF- SET-tailstock-center-65965#post105972 http://www.homemadetools.net/ forum/s...995#post112113 (

Hello, Carl The advice you gave is spot on. I remember machining a test bar in trade school in the same manner. It is never fail advice! Dick -- http://www.homemadetools.net/ forum/ OFF-

Hello JHM: There is yet another option that doesn't use a test bar. Mount an indicator to the headstock spindle and rotate it about the tailstock center. This will tell you if they are in alignment,

Hello JHM: We made test bars in trade school. The bars started as 1" hot rolled stock with black bark on it. We turned most of it down to 3/4" diameter leaving an inch at both ends at 7/8". Then we

Hello: I'm sorry if I did not explain myself correctly. I won't be turning a bar. I already did that to see how close I could get to a reasonably good alignment without a proper test bar. Now I will

If you have a decent dial indicator a 10mm bar will be fine. Remember, the drilled centers don't have to be perfect as you will be turning the test bar between centers anyway.

Hello: Indeed ... I am a huge fan of Mr. Pete and I have seen both videos. 8^) He explains everything very well. That said, most if not all of Mr. Pete's videos are directed at enthusiasts who have or

Mr. Pete/Tubalcain (youtube channel mrpete222), "your youtube shop teacher," has two videos on making test bars for aligning centers. MACHINE SHOP TIPS #95 Making a Test Bar pt 1

Hello: I postponed the 2 hr. journey to the purveyor till I had someone with a proper lathe+skill to make the centers on the rod. for me. Fortunately, I found a chap willing to do the job for a

Hi John, regarding the 8" mini shear/ brake. I get the wire part, I already have a micro mark rolling mill for wire. I don't know how the accessory(s) works for sure, but I want one!? It looks like