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Re: Tool Grinding 101

 

The Atlas Manual of Lathe Operation has ben digitized and can be
downloaded from the Internet Archive.


The South Bend book is digitized and available to borrow.


Elliot Nesterman


On 4/16/23 2:19 PM, Steve Johnson wrote:
Thanks Gents! Excellent resources! Watching Mr. Pete as we speak, and
will look for those books!
--
Elliot Nesterman
elliot@...
www.ajoure.net

"The finest jewel cannot disguise a flawed character."


Re: Tool Grinding 101

 

You can find the books online as pdf's, and print out some of the tables of info you need, easily, but while I love having a digital library, I also love real paper books, so I try to have both! Only got one paper copy of the Atlas book, the one appropriate to my Atlas TH42, but I think I have 4 or 5 of the South Bend book, including one that's appropriate for my 1941 SB Heavy 10L, and both older and newer editions, as well. Plus several of each in digital formats. I've got a fairly cheap Android phone from Motorola with a 465GB(claims to be 500GB) microSD card nearly full, and a Samsung 10.5" tablet with a 1TB, about 900GB actual, microSD in it. Screens big enough to watch a video at the lathe... ;) And enlarge pages in the digital editions of the books. Comes in handy! A really excellent source of older books on machining, grinding tooling, and the like, is archive.org. You can find a lot of good info there from the years before 1924 mostly being out of copyright.?? the link is a search I made on "machine tools" which is really a little too general, but one of the items there is a manual for a Maximat 7. You won't get a lot of material if you search for "Unimat" there, but you will get some. Lathe, milling machine, and other search terms might find you a whole bunch more. ;)?

Atlas lathe & South Bend lathe will get you PDF (among other formats) of the Atlas MOL & SB HTRL, and the SB Machine Shop Projects books. You can also find them on eBay or Amazon, sometimes in paper.

Bill in OKC

William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)

Aphorisms to live by:
Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.?
SEMPER GUMBY!
Improvise, Adapt, and Overcome.
Physics doesn't care about your schedule.
The only reason I know anything is because I've done it wrong enough times to START to know better.
Expect in one hand, expectorate in the other. See which one gets full first.



On Sunday, April 16, 2023 at 01:19:49 PM CDT, Steve Johnson <steve@...> wrote:


Thanks Gents! Excellent resources! Watching Mr. Pete as we speak, and will look for those books!


Re: Tool Grinding 101

 

Thanks Gents! Excellent resources! Watching Mr. Pete as we speak, and will look for those books!


Milling table differences between Unimat 3 and DB200/SL1000 versions¡­

 

Hey there.

anyone aware of any real differences here.?

I vaguely remember the version for the U3 had deeper t-slots?
what about using on both Lathe types any issues?

thanks,
Jeff


Re: Tool Grinding 101

 

Hello Steve!
Lathe tool grinding was the first subject taught in Trade School and the first skill I had to master as a beginner. There are two old books I have in my library that teach how to grind lathe tools. (1) How to run a lathe by South Bend (2) Lathe Operation by Atlas and later published by Craftsman and later Sears Robuck.
Both are excellent and good resources.
Dick


Re: Tool Grinding 101

 

Mr. Pete222 is a good start, and this is really the best place to start:?

Bill in OKC

William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)

Aphorisms to live by:
Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.?
SEMPER GUMBY!
Improvise, Adapt, and Overcome.
Physics doesn't care about your schedule.
The only reason I know anything is because I've done it wrong enough times to START to know better.
Expect in one hand, expectorate in the other. See which one gets full first.



On Saturday, April 15, 2023 at 09:17:41 PM CDT, Steve Johnson <steve@...> wrote:


I'm a new Unimat owner, and I've only turned a few pieces with Delrin rod. I'm pretty ambitious about getting into more serious turning, but I have zero knowledge about the art/craft of creating and maintaining sharp tooling. Like what kind of grinder, standard tool shapes and what they are for, keeping things sharp, correct angles between the tooling and the workpiece, etc, etc.

So much to learn/understand, and I'd rather not go completely trial and error.

Any good resources you can share about how to go about it the right way?

(I've also never sharpened a drill bit, chisel, plane blade, saw blade, etc - not in any professional way - but I'd like to correct that too!)


Re: Casting an aluminum motor mount for DC motor upgrade

Kevin Groenke @ PersonMakeObject
 

Thanks Steve! FWIW, nothing on the bracket was milled. Drill press, bandsaw, sanders, drills and taps are all that were used to fab the bracket.?

Kevin Groenke
human of planet earth

On Sat, Apr 15, 2023, 10:02 PM Steve Johnson <steve@...> wrote:
BTW, your milled mount looks awesome. Hope to get to that skill level someday.


Re: Casting an aluminum motor mount for DC motor upgrade

 

BTW, your milled mount looks awesome. Hope to get to that skill level someday.


Re: Casting an aluminum motor mount for DC motor upgrade

 

Thanks! My very long bucket list has lots of things related to making/building/fixing/modifying that I might only do a few times, but it feels good to attempt it, hopefully succeed, maybe find a new side hobby. I bought a pneumatic riveter years ago, the kind they used on 737s, and a crap load of various rivet sizes and countersink bits.? I used it to make a heated bed for a 3D printer, maybe I'll use it again, but a totally rewarding experience even if I don't.

Casting is one of those that I think will be more practical. I've been stockpiling aluminum parts and cans, thinking about approaching auto shops for old pistons/blocks (did you ever watch "The Worlds Fastest Indian", where he casts his own pistons in primitive sand molds? His formula for the perfect alloy was - one part Ford, one part Chevy!) Being able to design and print using plastics, and then use that as a basis for a mold is huge.?

Not too long ago, anything I tried to make had to be out of wood, or metal crudely shaped with a hacksaw and a hand drill. So many options today.


Re: Casting an aluminum motor mount for DC motor upgrade

Kevin Groenke @ PersonMakeObject
 

Cool! I commend your iniative to undertake your own casting Steve!
When I swapped in a Foredom motor, I fabbed it out of 1/2" aluminum plate.


On Sat, Apr 15, 2023, 6:49 PM Steve Johnson <steve@...> wrote:
I have almost two complete Unimat SLs, yet to be installed in my new micro shop (that is waiting to be built..). The 2nd machine, which I will set up for milling, will have a dc motor installed. I've seen examples of taking the dc motor apart and drilling new holes that would line up with the original Emco mount. But I thought I'd save the $65ish Ebay cost and make my own. Especially since I won't need the dog leg where the idler pulley would go.

Too many concurrent projects of course - I still need to set up my foundry and cast some ingots, build a vacuum chamber to pull the air bubbles out of the plaster mold, and build a kiln to burnout the lost PLA that I am using as the positive for the mold. All new territory, but looking forward to it.?

I'll post updates as I go. Here is the 3D print for the mount. If anyone is interested and has their own foundry/casting setup, I'm happy to share the design/STL files.?


Re: Why Unimat?

 

Beautiful knives! Thanks for sharing another example of what is possible with these little machines. Very inspiring.


Tool Grinding 101

 

I'm a new Unimat owner, and I've only turned a few pieces with Delrin rod. I'm pretty ambitious about getting into more serious turning, but I have zero knowledge about the art/craft of creating and maintaining sharp tooling. Like what kind of grinder, standard tool shapes and what they are for, keeping things sharp, correct angles between the tooling and the workpiece, etc, etc.

So much to learn/understand, and I'd rather not go completely trial and error.

Any good resources you can share about how to go about it the right way?

(I've also never sharpened a drill bit, chisel, plane blade, saw blade, etc - not in any professional way - but I'd like to correct that too!)


Re: Casting an aluminum motor mount for DC motor upgrade

 

I found a video detailing the conversion which I'll try to find.?

Motor:


Power Supply:


Speed Controller:


Ah, found the video:


Re: Why Unimat?

Kevin Groenke @ PersonMakeObject
 

Thanks Dick!
At this point I'll use whatever wood species clients ask for! Generally the balance and feel of the knives is better with denser wood species, so I'm mostly using woods that are quite heavy and hard. Since the wood is a relatively small portion of the overall cost, I tend towards using "exotics" such as Rosewoods, Ebony and the like. I've also been fortunate to have developed a bit of a following amongst guitar builders and a number of them have sent me ridiculous amounts of fantastic woods in exchange for knives. I have more wood than I'll ever be able to make into knives, but I'm still a sucker for great stuff, so send me pictures if you want and maybe we can work something out.?
The last ones I made are from Snakewood and African Blackwood. Both of these woods sink in water and are very hard, they can turn and finish almost like Delrin if the grain isn't squirrely.?
IMG_20230415_161206.jpg?IMG_20230415_160536.jpg?IMG_20230415_161301.jpg

Best Regards,
Kevin from PersonMakeObject
?
??????



On Sat, Apr 15, 2023 at 7:28?PM old_toolmaker via <old_toolmaker=[email protected]> wrote:
Hi Kevin,
You have
a couple of fine examples of the Unimat DB200 and produce some beautiful works of art.
What variety¡¯s of wood do you use for your products?
Just curious.
I have quite a collection of exotic woods that was passed on to me after after my dad passed away years ago.
Dick


Re: Why Unimat?

 

Nice handles!? I know the Unimat can bite, but I'd much rather have it do that then my Logan or Clausing!? I was turning between centers a few days ago and forgot about the dog arm spinning around.? It just barely kissed one of my knuckles- didn't even leave a mark, and am very grateful for that!??

-Dave


On Saturday, April 15, 2023 at 10:07:50 AM PDT, Kevin Groenke @ PersonMakeObject via groups.io <groen004@...> wrote:


I've been using 2) DB200's for a couple of years for light production of small brass hardware (~2000 pieces to date) for the knives I make.

I've researched and considered many other lathes and equipment that might allow me to produce these parts more quickly, efficiently, safely and/or accurately, but I've concluded that the Unimat is close to ideal. Yes, a full on cnc turning center could knock them out in seconds per piece, but I'm not ever going to pay for such a machine or fit one down my basement stairs. Yes, a Hardinge, Levin, or Shaublin with collet closer and turret could be more accurate and efficient. I would greatly appreciate more rigidity and power that those machines would provide, but the Unimat's limitations also contribute to what makes it good for these parts. For example, I run the Unimat on a momentary foot pedal nearly all the time, and I grab the spinning pulley? to stop the spindle when switching out parts?(notice O-ring grip on large step). Those techniques?speed up processes significantly, but there's no way I'd do them on a bigger lather (even a 7 x X) because of the inherent risk (of course I know the Unimat is capable of hurting?me too). The compact size allows me to roll a stool under the lathe which also increases efficiency, and allows me to have separate machines for each set-up which I wouldn't have room for if bigger machines (so far I just have 1 mill and 1 lathe, but if I had 3 lathes and 2 mills I could produce parts start-to-finish instead of batching processes).
So, YMMV, but for me the answer to "Why Unimat?" is - Because I haven't found anything that would be better for doing what I need done.?

FB_IMG_1679502627523.jpg?FB_IMG_1670994595258.jpg

Best Regards,
Kevin from PersonMakeObject
?
??????


On Wed, Apr 12, 2023, 9:59 AM Aaron Woods <awoods550@...> wrote:
I don't have a Unimat. I'd like one but I already have several small lathes so getting one is simply a want rather than a need.

I became interested in a lathe for model work, and ended up buying a Sherline, since they could be bought new and have a good reputation.?

The topic of small lathes often comes up in modeling circles. I can do a decent comparison between Taig, Sherline and Atlas / Craftsman 6" since I have used them, but have never been hands on with a Unimat.

For somebody in the market for a small lathe, what would you say the major perks of a Unimat are??

Obviously size goes for the SL/SB if someone wants very compact and the various attachments can make it a handy if expensive many in one tool.

With the prices Unimats can ask, I begin to wonder if they are still a good suggestion for a beginner. You can get a new Taig or Sherline for about the same money as the average asking price of a Unimat.
As I don't have experience with Unimat that is a question I can't answer.


Re: Casting an aluminum motor mount for DC motor upgrade

 

What DC motor will you use?

Jeff


Re: Quick Change Tool Post and Buddy Bar

 

Yes, I did use a Taig tailstock. I made an adapter for it. Works well.?


Re: Casting an aluminum motor mount for DC motor upgrade

 

Nice project!? I've had a furnace in the works for about 5 years now, but I keep needing to work on other things, so I forget about it until I'd like to cast something, then realize I can't yet.? One of these days...

-Dave

On Saturday, April 15, 2023 at 04:49:59 PM PDT, Steve Johnson <steve@...> wrote:


I have almost two complete Unimat SLs, yet to be installed in my new micro shop (that is waiting to be built..). The 2nd machine, which I will set up for milling, will have a dc motor installed. I've seen examples of taking the dc motor apart and drilling new holes that would line up with the original Emco mount. But I thought I'd save the $65ish Ebay cost and make my own. Especially since I won't need the dog leg where the idler pulley would go.

Too many concurrent projects of course - I still need to set up my foundry and cast some ingots, build a vacuum chamber to pull the air bubbles out of the plaster mold, and build a kiln to burnout the lost PLA that I am using as the positive for the mold. All new territory, but looking forward to it.?

I'll post updates as I go. Here is the 3D print for the mount. If anyone is interested and has their own foundry/casting setup, I'm happy to share the design/STL files.?


Re: Quick Change Tool Post and Buddy Bar

 

Did you use a Taig tailstock, it looks like it?

Jeff


Re: Why Unimat?

Kevin Groenke @ PersonMakeObject
 

Thanks Jay, I'm going to look back at your cnc posts!
I would love to get a CNC machine set up with either another Unimat or a similar format machine. Interestingly,? I don't know if CNC would improve efficiency in production of the rectilinear blade holder parts as more time is spent in set-up and part handling than in actually turning cranks (and pulling my "rapid retract" belt), but I would love the?curve machining capability that?CNC would give me for other parts like the finial knobs. I've been following with some interest as the scale and capability seem like they could be a good fit.

IMG_20230415_200507.jpg

Best Regards,
Kevin from PersonMakeObject
??
??????



On Sat, Apr 15, 2023 at 12:12?PM Jay Perez <jay.perez1@...> wrote:
Hi Kevin,

I have a couple of post in this forum about converting one of my two DB200 to CNC. It's not that difficult to do and would probably be a good fit for your application.

Jay

On Sat, Apr 15, 2023, 1:03 PM Kevin Groenke @ PersonMakeObject via <groen004=[email protected]> wrote:
I've been using 2) DB200's for a couple of years for light production of small brass hardware (~2000 pieces to date) for the knives I make.

I've researched and considered many other lathes and equipment that might allow me to produce these parts more quickly, efficiently, safely and/or accurately, but I've concluded that the Unimat is close to ideal. Yes, a full on cnc turning center could knock them out in seconds per piece, but I'm not ever going to pay for such a machine or fit one down my basement stairs. Yes, a Hardinge, Levin, or Shaublin with collet closer and turret could be more accurate and efficient. I would greatly appreciate more rigidity and power that those machines would provide, but the Unimat's limitations also contribute to what makes it good for these parts. For example, I run the Unimat on a momentary foot pedal nearly all the time, and I grab the spinning pulley? to stop the spindle when switching out parts?(notice O-ring grip on large step). Those techniques?speed up processes significantly, but there's no way I'd do them on a bigger lather (even a 7 x X) because of the inherent risk (of course I know the Unimat is capable of hurting?me too). The compact size allows me to roll a stool under the lathe which also increases efficiency, and allows me to have separate machines for each set-up which I wouldn't have room for if bigger machines (so far I just have 1 mill and 1 lathe, but if I had 3 lathes and 2 mills I could produce parts start-to-finish instead of batching processes).
So, YMMV, but for me the answer to "Why Unimat?" is - Because I haven't found anything that would be better for doing what I need done.?

FB_IMG_1679502627523.jpg?FB_IMG_1670994595258.jpg

Best Regards,
Kevin from PersonMakeObject
?
??????


On Wed, Apr 12, 2023, 9:59 AM Aaron Woods <awoods550@...> wrote:
I don't have a Unimat. I'd like one but I already have several small lathes so getting one is simply a want rather than a need.

I became interested in a lathe for model work, and ended up buying a Sherline, since they could be bought new and have a good reputation.?

The topic of small lathes often comes up in modeling circles. I can do a decent comparison between Taig, Sherline and Atlas / Craftsman 6" since I have used them, but have never been hands on with a Unimat.

For somebody in the market for a small lathe, what would you say the major perks of a Unimat are??

Obviously size goes for the SL/SB if someone wants very compact and the various attachments can make it a handy if expensive many in one tool.

With the prices Unimats can ask, I begin to wonder if they are still a good suggestion for a beginner. You can get a new Taig or Sherline for about the same money as the average asking price of a Unimat.
As I don't have experience with Unimat that is a question I can't answer.