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Re: Why Unimat?

 

Thank you for the replies, I completely understand the vintage angle, the Taig and Sherline are among very few tools in my shop made after Y2K. Regarding size, the foot print of a Unimat is only about 2/3 that of the short bed Sherline, and the ability to convert to a mill highlights the small size even more. Of course size is a two sided issue, nice and compact is a plus when space is tight, and leads to cursing when you just need 1/2" more capacity. I think Proxxon is the only company that offers a lathe in the foot print of the Unimat SL.


Charles you are spot on in my thinking. If it were as simple as getting online and ordering a Unimat, I would have far less concern recommending one. Then it is simply a matter of look at what is available, compare budget, needs, etc and buy the one that works for you.
It is the used nature that raises the issue. It does seem like collectability of the Unimat contributes as much to the asking prices as quality / utility of the lathes. Of course deals turn up, but prices seem to run $300-1200 depending on condition and tooling. At the upper end there are many options for other machines, so you kind of need to really need or want specifically what Unimat offers.?

I do find it interesting that so few seem to recommend the very small Sieg "baby" lathes like the Grizzly G0745 which appears to be a near clone of the Unimat 3 at a price new you would be lucky to find a real Unimat for.



I appreciate the responses understanding that I'm just looking for the what makes Unimat special, rather than being any kind of knock on them.?

??


Re: Why Unimat?

 

I just had to use one of mine to make four 1/4" brass spacers to fit over 6-32 screws. perfect size for that.
?Jeff


-----Original Message-----
From: Dave Seiter <d.seiter@...>
To: [email protected] <[email protected]>
Sent: Wed, Apr 12, 2023 9:21 pm
Subject: Re: [Unimat] Why Unimat?

One other note- Other than the U100 motor, they have zero plastic- I love that!?

-Dave

On Wednesday, April 12, 2023 at 07:59:30 AM PDT, Aaron Woods <awoods550@...> wrote:


I don't have a Unimat. I'd like one but I already have several small lathes so getting one is simply a want rather than a need.

I became interested in a lathe for model work, and ended up buying a Sherline, since they could be bought new and have a good reputation.?

The topic of small lathes often comes up in modeling circles. I can do a decent comparison between Taig, Sherline and Atlas / Craftsman 6" since I have used them, but have never been hands on with a Unimat.

For somebody in the market for a small lathe, what would you say the major perks of a Unimat are??

Obviously size goes for the SL/SB if someone wants very compact and the various attachments can make it a handy if expensive many in one tool.

With the prices Unimats can ask, I begin to wonder if they are still a good suggestion for a beginner. You can get a new Taig or Sherline for about the same money as the average asking price of a Unimat.
As I don't have experience with Unimat that is a question I can't answer.


Re: Why Unimat?

 

One other note- Other than the U100 motor, they have zero plastic- I love that!?

-Dave

On Wednesday, April 12, 2023 at 07:59:30 AM PDT, Aaron Woods <awoods550@...> wrote:


I don't have a Unimat. I'd like one but I already have several small lathes so getting one is simply a want rather than a need.

I became interested in a lathe for model work, and ended up buying a Sherline, since they could be bought new and have a good reputation.?

The topic of small lathes often comes up in modeling circles. I can do a decent comparison between Taig, Sherline and Atlas / Craftsman 6" since I have used them, but have never been hands on with a Unimat.

For somebody in the market for a small lathe, what would you say the major perks of a Unimat are??

Obviously size goes for the SL/SB if someone wants very compact and the various attachments can make it a handy if expensive many in one tool.

With the prices Unimats can ask, I begin to wonder if they are still a good suggestion for a beginner. You can get a new Taig or Sherline for about the same money as the average asking price of a Unimat.
As I don't have experience with Unimat that is a question I can't answer.


Re: Why Unimat?

 

I grew up with my father's Unimat, and still have it, along with many accessories I've made over the years (like a steady rest and large milling table/vise).? My issue with it was it's small size; I was always pushing the envelope of what I could do with it, as my 3/8" endmill holder can attest to.? The poor little thing is still in great shape, which is a testament to its' quality.? I eventually got a Logan 825, and a longbed Clausing 11", which get 98% of the use these days.? That said, I always smile when I need to drag it out for a project.??

Aside: A few years ago, I missed two very cheap Schaublin 102 watchmakers' lathes by a few minutes, but ended up with lots of accessories for them that the buyer completely missed (he obviously wasn't a watchmaker or even a machinist, as they are worth more than the lathes!? I've been looking for another cheap but quality plain lathe I can use the accessories with ever since (I'm half Swiss, so it must be a Swiss lathe!)

-Dave

On Wednesday, April 12, 2023 at 07:59:30 AM PDT, Aaron Woods <awoods550@...> wrote:


I don't have a Unimat. I'd like one but I already have several small lathes so getting one is simply a want rather than a need.

I became interested in a lathe for model work, and ended up buying a Sherline, since they could be bought new and have a good reputation.?

The topic of small lathes often comes up in modeling circles. I can do a decent comparison between Taig, Sherline and Atlas / Craftsman 6" since I have used them, but have never been hands on with a Unimat.

For somebody in the market for a small lathe, what would you say the major perks of a Unimat are??

Obviously size goes for the SL/SB if someone wants very compact and the various attachments can make it a handy if expensive many in one tool.

With the prices Unimats can ask, I begin to wonder if they are still a good suggestion for a beginner. You can get a new Taig or Sherline for about the same money as the average asking price of a Unimat.
As I don't have experience with Unimat that is a question I can't answer.


Re: Why Unimat?

 

True that! Though it can be a heck of a supplement to a bigger workshop, too.?

Bill in OKC

William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)

Aphorisms to live by:
Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.?
SEMPER GUMBY!
Improvise, Adapt, and Overcome.
Physics doesn't care about your schedule.
The only reason I know anything is because I've done it wrong enough times to START to know better.
Expect in one hand, expectorate in the other. See which one gets full first.



On Wednesday, April 12, 2023 at 03:55:59 PM CDT, Elliot Nesterman <elliot@...> wrote:


The other thing to remember is that the Unimat was not advertised as
simply a lathe. It was the Unimat Micro Machine Shop. Its versatility
was its strength.
Now, if you have enough room to set up a hobby machine shop, room for a
micro- or mini-lathe, table-top milling machine, small bench grinder,
and a few other essentials, then the Unimat's versatility isn't needed.
But if you only have room for only one machine at a time, then being
able to relatively quickly turn it from a lathe to a mill to a grinder
to a jigsaw/tablesaw, et al. will certainly recommend it to you.
And because it is both a lathe and a mill out of the box, most of the
various accessories can be made right on the Unimat.
My 2?,
Elliot Nesterman


On 4/12/23 1:08 PM, Jkle379184 via groups.io wrote:
Unimat is one of the few small lathes that you can take out of the box
set up on the kitchen table, do decent work with . And then put it back
in it's wooden brief case, and stow away under a bed or closet until the
next time. It can handle watch, clock repair, small kits, steam engines
and a host of other projects and still be carried under your arm. The 7x
lathes are nice, but they are not that portable.
?Jeff


-----Original Message-----
From: Charles Kinzer <ckinzer@...>
To: [email protected] <[email protected]>
Sent: Wed, Apr 12, 2023 12:16 pm
Subject: Re: [Unimat] Why Unimat?

That's an interesting question since it involves a desire for a
"hobbyist" lathe, whatever the brand, but in the year 2023.

Long ago, the appeal of the Unimat was that it made a hobby lathe a
possibility.? I don't there was very much, if any, competition for that
size lathe and certainly not with its features.? There was the Adept
lathe made in the UK and I know that at least some model railroad
hobbyists had them.? (Adept seemed to phase out of the marketplace in
the 1960's about when Unimat phased in.)? And then there was the Manson
Lathe (later Master Lathe) marketed to hobbyists, but it was quite small
and very limited in performance.? And any number of watchmaker style lathes.

So, when the Unimat came along with a lot of features at a pretty
reasonable price it really filled a mostly open niche.? Especially since
the basic machine could also do respectable milling and act as a drill
press which seemed pretty unique at the time.

I think they did that with a fairly elegant design (even if it didn't
have cast ways) where the "basic" machine would satisfy the needs of the
majority of buyers at a reasonable price.? For the small percentage of
people who needed more features, there was the vast array of
accessories.? The accessories today being far more rare than the basic
machine.? They were first marketed as "10 in 1" machines but you had to
buy major accessories to get the count up to ten.? After a while they
marketed it as a "6 in 1" with what the basic machine could do and
eventually a "5 in 1" as they dropped the configuration of using the
head as a hand power drill in their promotion.

But that was then, this is now.? You probably already have what would be
my "today" choice for "hobby" sized machine with the Sherline.? Of
course, you have to buy a separate lathe and mill if you want decent
milling.? (Milling in a lathe with a milling attachment usually being
rather limited in performance - but an option if only doing a little of
it and only doing fairly light work.)

For just a "small" lathe, the Chinese 7xWhatever "mini-lathes" are hard
to beat on price for they can do.? The thing is you might have to do a
lot of work on the lathe depending on the quality of performance you
want.? Some jokingly call them "kits".? But some are happy with them out
of the box.? The primary advantage other than handling much larger work
pieces than a Unimat or Sherline or Taig, while still having a pretty
small footprint, is that they are a real "engine lathe" with built in
power feed and thread cutting (with change gears).? So, it is more in a
class with the 6 inch Atlas, I suppose.? But more compact.? Also, prices
have been rising to buy a new 7xWhatever over the last few years, but
still competitive.? I suggested to people a few years back to get them
while the getting was good as it was likely prices would start going up
a lot - and they have.

But for today, I don't see the Unimat as a best choice if you are
looking for price versus performance.? If you are wanting a tool to use
rather than to collect.? Too much of the price is because it is a
collectors' item rather than for performance.? However, you can get a
perfectly usable Unimat for a lot less than a new Sherline.? Unimats are
actually typically less in "real dollars" compared to what they cost
new.? In 1960 a basic Unimat was about $139 and that is $1400 in today's
dollars.

For a new hobbyist lathe, I very much prefer the Sherline over the
Taig.? And if desiring to get a "real" lathe where you don't need ham
handed accessories to power feed or thread, then a Chinese 7xWhatever or
a used 6 inch Atlas (or Craftsman) would top my list.

There are some other very respectable products such as the Prazi lathes,
but they are quite expensive.? Or other alternatives for the Atlas 6
inch class lathe such as the Myford from the UK, but that's also
expensive and much larger than a "hobbyist" size lathe.

On a more general note, I'm a believer in trying to get the machine you
want even if you have to save up for it for a while.? It is no fun in
the long run to get the machine you didn't want.? Also, for anyone who
actually MAKES anything, there will likely be a lot of tooling also
purchased.? Sometimes a lot of tooling.? And that costs about the same
whether putting it on the lathe you really wanted versus the lathe you
didn't want.

Charles E. "Chuck" Kinzer

On Wednesday, April 12, 2023 at 07:59:30 AM PDT, Aaron Woods
<awoods550@...> wrote:


I don't have a Unimat. I'd like one but I already have several small
lathes so getting one is simply a want rather than a need.

I became interested in a lathe for model work, and ended up buying a
Sherline, since they could be bought new and have a good reputation.

The topic of small lathes often comes up in modeling circles. I can do a
decent comparison between Taig, Sherline and Atlas / Craftsman 6" since
I have used them, but have never been hands on with a Unimat.

For somebody in the market for a small lathe, what would you say the
major perks of a Unimat are?

Obviously size goes for the SL/SB if someone wants very compact and the
various attachments can make it a handy if expensive many in one tool.

With the prices Unimats can ask, I begin to wonder if they are still a
good suggestion for a beginner. You can get a new Taig or Sherline for
about the same money as the average asking price of a Unimat.
As I don't have experience with Unimat that is a question I can't answer.
--
Elliot Nesterman
elliot@...
www.ajoure.net

"The finest jewel cannot disguise a flawed character."


Re: Why Unimat?

 

The other thing to remember is that the Unimat was not advertised as
simply a lathe. It was the Unimat Micro Machine Shop. Its versatility
was its strength.
Now, if you have enough room to set up a hobby machine shop, room for a
micro- or mini-lathe, table-top milling machine, small bench grinder,
and a few other essentials, then the Unimat's versatility isn't needed.
But if you only have room for only one machine at a time, then being
able to relatively quickly turn it from a lathe to a mill to a grinder
to a jigsaw/tablesaw, et al. will certainly recommend it to you.
And because it is both a lathe and a mill out of the box, most of the
various accessories can be made right on the Unimat.
My 2?,
Elliot Nesterman


On 4/12/23 1:08 PM, Jkle379184 via groups.io wrote:
Unimat is one of the few small lathes that you can take out of the box
set up on the kitchen table, do decent work with . And then put it back
in it's wooden brief case, and stow away under a bed or closet until the
next time. It can handle watch, clock repair, small kits, steam engines
and a host of other projects and still be carried under your arm. The 7x
lathes are nice, but they are not that portable.
?Jeff


-----Original Message-----
From: Charles Kinzer <ckinzer@...>
To: [email protected] <[email protected]>
Sent: Wed, Apr 12, 2023 12:16 pm
Subject: Re: [Unimat] Why Unimat?

That's an interesting question since it involves a desire for a
"hobbyist" lathe, whatever the brand, but in the year 2023.

Long ago, the appeal of the Unimat was that it made a hobby lathe a
possibility.? I don't there was very much, if any, competition for that
size lathe and certainly not with its features.? There was the Adept
lathe made in the UK and I know that at least some model railroad
hobbyists had them.? (Adept seemed to phase out of the marketplace in
the 1960's about when Unimat phased in.)? And then there was the Manson
Lathe (later Master Lathe) marketed to hobbyists, but it was quite small
and very limited in performance.? And any number of watchmaker style lathes.

So, when the Unimat came along with a lot of features at a pretty
reasonable price it really filled a mostly open niche.? Especially since
the basic machine could also do respectable milling and act as a drill
press which seemed pretty unique at the time.

I think they did that with a fairly elegant design (even if it didn't
have cast ways) where the "basic" machine would satisfy the needs of the
majority of buyers at a reasonable price.? For the small percentage of
people who needed more features, there was the vast array of
accessories.? The accessories today being far more rare than the basic
machine.? They were first marketed as "10 in 1" machines but you had to
buy major accessories to get the count up to ten.? After a while they
marketed it as a "6 in 1" with what the basic machine could do and
eventually a "5 in 1" as they dropped the configuration of using the
head as a hand power drill in their promotion.

But that was then, this is now.? You probably already have what would be
my "today" choice for "hobby" sized machine with the Sherline.? Of
course, you have to buy a separate lathe and mill if you want decent
milling.? (Milling in a lathe with a milling attachment usually being
rather limited in performance - but an option if only doing a little of
it and only doing fairly light work.)

For just a "small" lathe, the Chinese 7xWhatever "mini-lathes" are hard
to beat on price for they can do.? The thing is you might have to do a
lot of work on the lathe depending on the quality of performance you
want.? Some jokingly call them "kits".? But some are happy with them out
of the box.? The primary advantage other than handling much larger work
pieces than a Unimat or Sherline or Taig, while still having a pretty
small footprint, is that they are a real "engine lathe" with built in
power feed and thread cutting (with change gears).? So, it is more in a
class with the 6 inch Atlas, I suppose.? But more compact.? Also, prices
have been rising to buy a new 7xWhatever over the last few years, but
still competitive.? I suggested to people a few years back to get them
while the getting was good as it was likely prices would start going up
a lot - and they have.

But for today, I don't see the Unimat as a best choice if you are
looking for price versus performance.? If you are wanting a tool to use
rather than to collect.? Too much of the price is because it is a
collectors' item rather than for performance.? However, you can get a
perfectly usable Unimat for a lot less than a new Sherline.? Unimats are
actually typically less in "real dollars" compared to what they cost
new.? In 1960 a basic Unimat was about $139 and that is $1400 in today's
dollars.

For a new hobbyist lathe, I very much prefer the Sherline over the
Taig.? And if desiring to get a "real" lathe where you don't need ham
handed accessories to power feed or thread, then a Chinese 7xWhatever or
a used 6 inch Atlas (or Craftsman) would top my list.

There are some other very respectable products such as the Prazi lathes,
but they are quite expensive.? Or other alternatives for the Atlas 6
inch class lathe such as the Myford from the UK, but that's also
expensive and much larger than a "hobbyist" size lathe.

On a more general note, I'm a believer in trying to get the machine you
want even if you have to save up for it for a while.? It is no fun in
the long run to get the machine you didn't want.? Also, for anyone who
actually MAKES anything, there will likely be a lot of tooling also
purchased.? Sometimes a lot of tooling.? And that costs about the same
whether putting it on the lathe you really wanted versus the lathe you
didn't want.

Charles E. "Chuck" Kinzer

On Wednesday, April 12, 2023 at 07:59:30 AM PDT, Aaron Woods
<awoods550@...> wrote:


I don't have a Unimat. I'd like one but I already have several small
lathes so getting one is simply a want rather than a need.

I became interested in a lathe for model work, and ended up buying a
Sherline, since they could be bought new and have a good reputation.

The topic of small lathes often comes up in modeling circles. I can do a
decent comparison between Taig, Sherline and Atlas / Craftsman 6" since
I have used them, but have never been hands on with a Unimat.

For somebody in the market for a small lathe, what would you say the
major perks of a Unimat are?

Obviously size goes for the SL/SB if someone wants very compact and the
various attachments can make it a handy if expensive many in one tool.

With the prices Unimats can ask, I begin to wonder if they are still a
good suggestion for a beginner. You can get a new Taig or Sherline for
about the same money as the average asking price of a Unimat.
As I don't have experience with Unimat that is a question I can't answer.
--
Elliot Nesterman
elliot@...
www.ajoure.net

"The finest jewel cannot disguise a flawed character."


Re: Why Unimat?

Jarod
 

Elegance...the modern appear like stacked Legos.?


On Wed, Apr 12, 2023, 11:31 AM Bill in OKC too via <wmrmeyers=[email protected]> wrote:

I have a number of answers, based in several imperatives I've experienced over the past nearly 60 years. First off, back before Prepping was even a thing, my 2nd step-father was expecting Armageddon any minute now. That was 1965. He was training my little brother and I (10yo & 8.5yo) to be his own little private army. Our grandma was Mormon, and kept spare food for when times got tough, based on the teachings of her new church, (became a Mormon in 1955, the year I was born) and having been a newly-wed wife & mother during the Great Depression. We asked our SF why he wasn't storing food. He said we didn't have to, as the Mormons were storing it for us. We were being trained to take it from others, IOW. Knowing my grandpa and grandma, this just didn't seem like a really good idea. ;) We got knives, and bb guns, and training in how to use them. Also encouraged to play war games with our friends, and we watched Combat! and Sea Hunt with him on TV. With tips on how to do better, fighting. He was UDT in the navy. That was the base organization that later became Navy SEAL's. We noted that he wasn't reloading, wasn't practicing shooting firearms, and wasn't storing parts for them, either.?

Grandpa was a serious DIY guy. He bought his house in 1943, and by the time I was living there with them, at age 4, he'd tripled the size of it. Before I was in my teens, he had the very first sidewalk in the neighborhood, a two-car garage, covered patio, and paved two-car driveway. Dad was, too, but also had a 2nd family by the time I was 6. He'd spent summers at his grandparent's farm, and wanted to be a farmer, but there wasn't much call for it when his family moved to Cali, since they turned into city folk. He did shoot, reload, build and fix things, since most of the time he couldn't afford to buy them new and in good shape. Did a bit of amateur gunsmithing, too, but mostly had to buy parts to fix his guns, and automobiles. Got into CB radio, then Amateur radio. Did some Army National Guard time as a communications troop. Carrying, setting up, and operating a Model 15 teletype in the field, until they let him become a cook. He like that lots better, but still had a few Model 15 TTY's in his stash when I left his home in 1972. He also read a lot about making/repairing/fixing stuff. Had decades worth of American Rifleman and Popular Electronics magazines. I first read about the Unimats in those. Seemed a really good thing to get, but they were expensive! The Atlas and South Bend lathes and shapers looked really good, too, but were WAY more expensive, and larger, too. And I'd moved 32 times by the time I turned 18, and enlisted in the USAF. Small and portable looked really really good!

Took a machine shop class my senior year of high school. IIRC, it was only one quarter, may have been a semester, but I only had time to learn a bit about the lathe, and shaper. Fell in LOVE with those tools! South Bend, the both of them, but I'd have taken anything I could get! Except that I could not find one. Got a job after I graduated, in June 1973, making $1.25/hour at Kmart's building materials department. Wanted the Jewelry department, but they didn't have any openings at the time. Was interested in lapidary, jewelry making, and photography. One of my neighbors when I lived with my dad in Colorado was the first person to make accurate copies of the Clovis points, and had hundreds of other types and styles of knapped flint, obsidian, and other stone arrow heads, spear points, scrapers, hand axes, and such. I'd moved back to Cali in '72 to go to the high school where they had the machine shop class, but I was lucky I'd worked my tailsection off most of my senior year, or I probably wouldn't have gotten even the one short class. I screwed up biggly in freshmen year at that same HS, and flunked every class but one. Dad moved to CO, and took my brother and I with him to give me a chance to mend my attitude, and do better in school. Worked, too. I wasn't quite a s stupid as I had been when I got back, and had learned how to work for things I wanted...

I loved that machine shop class, but wasn't quite bright enough to understand that I'd need to take another class or two to learn it. Enlisted in the USAF, and probably could have gotten them to train me, but didn't ask. Wanted a job in electronics, and they promised me one when I enlisted. Turned out, Aircraft Maintenance was dual qualified, electrical or mechanical, and my scores in both were good enough to get in. Base score required then was 50 in either field, and I'd done much better than that. Learned to be a pretty good aircraft mechanic, but wrecked my knees the first winter I spend on the flightline at Cannon AFB, the winter of 1974/1975. Got offered to retrain into something that wouldn't be so hard on my knees. Despite having been to the base machine shop a couple of times, I didn't even think about asking to become a machinist. YDS. Young, DUMB, and STUPID! :)? Did ten years as a photographer for the USAF, documenting aircraft accidents, weapons systems development, and grip and grins. Awards photos. Made Tech Sergeant, and got chained to a desk, doing paperwork and no photography for me! Field was over in TSgt's, and they asked if I'd like to retrain again. Still pretty YDS at age 30. ;) Retrained into Satellite Communications. Did that my last 12 years in the USAF. Had enough problems with what was pretty new equipment then that I'd gotten more interested in machining, and I'd been reading everything I could lay my hands on about machining, and had been looking for a smallish lathe on and off for all that time. Missed being able to get a Emco Maximat 5 in Germany twice over the course of a decade and a half. They had them in a department store in Wiesbaden, Germany. First time, I was there for a small surgery, only a few days, and they wouldn't let me cash a check for more than $25, and the lathe was about $350, or DM1000, in 1983, then I was stationed there in December 1991, but my wife was pregnant, and needed baby stuff in 1992, and then again in 1994... The funny thing was that the lathe was still about DM1000, but that was around $1000 by then.?

Came to Oklahoma in 1996, retired in 1997, with another baby just a couple of months before I retired. Shoes, clothing, diapers, toys, furniture, books, and food! No money for machine tools. And exhibited even more YDS, at age 42, and decided to become a school teacher. Ten years, over $100K in student loans, for a 3 year teaching career. I have over 300 semester hours of college credits. A pair of associate degrees. I was 6 hours from having what would have been my 2nd AAS when I retired, and lost it. Got the actual 2nd AA in Liberal Studies, then a bachelor's in Social Studies Secondary Education, and somewhere between 1/3 & 1/2 of a master's in Special Education, when I developed undiagnosed obstructive sleep apnea in the middle of my third attempt to do a full year of supervised teaching experience. First two, didn't have the full school year, and the last one I got to where I couldn't write a lesson plan, or follow one someone else wrote for me, and didn't get the diagnosis until just a few weeks before the school year was over. Challenged the non-recommendation on the medical basis, and was given another chance, but no one would take a chance on me. Wound up going back to work as a strong-back-weak-mind person, which got me back in very good physical condition, and gave me an intro to a maintenance job for the laundry company I was working for. The apnea showed up in 2008, teaching career crashed completely in 2012.

2008 or 2009, I woke up one morning from a horrible terrible dream. Ten foot tall screaming aliens with spears attacking my friends and I and all we have three muzzle-loading rifles to fight them with, and I knew we were all going to die, and it would be my fault because I couldn't build the rifles fast enough. Anyone who's read David Drake's book "Ranks of Bronze" will recognize the situation, as it's the first chapter, except that his protagonist has much of a Roman Legion to face their enemy. That morning, I got up, dressed, and went to the new Harbor Freight store, and bough myself an HF 93212 7"x10" mini-lathe. And in late 2014, around Christmas time, I was griping that I still couldn't get it to do anything I really wanted it to do. Wife cut to the chase and said, "Bill, take another class!"? So I did. Started at Francis Tuttle Technology Center's Portland campus in February 2015, going full time, and working full time. Should have been able to finish the class in 8-9 months. BUT! I wasn't a teenager anymore. Moved to the part-time class, 2 days a week, 3 hours per class. Took me 7 years and 3 months to the day to finish it. ;) Well, at least I ain't young anymore!?

Fairly early in the class, though, I found out what the problems was, and it was not the 7x10 mini-lathe, it was the lathe operator. I could not get accurate measurements. There is a sense of touch you need to develop to get good, accurate, repeatable measurements, and if I ever had it, I'd lost it. IIRC, I'd made a tap wrench and a riveting hammer in my class in high school. All the other metalworking I'd done was not stuff that required great accuracy. The TLAR method was all I needed. That Looks About Right! Spent a class or two with my 6" dial caliper and 1" micrometer, and the school's Class A Johansen block set, and learned how to get accurate measurements! Those blocks were accurate to within 50 millionths of an inch. I just needed to get within .001", and a bit later, .0001". Which I can do now, as long as I don't get in a rush!?

I've also spent much of those years looking for machine tools. And mostly not finding them. My dad gave me the Craftsman 15" drill press that used to have pride of place in his workshop. My next-to-youngest brother, who's a 6'8" 300lb gorilla, bent the quill on it. After I got the 7x10, I tried to fix it. Knew I couldn't straighten it out. (Might well have been wrong about that, too!) so cut the bent part down, and threaded it. With a die, since I wasn't doing all that well at measuring. ;) Very rough thread, too. Was going put a new piece of threaded material on there, cut to match the rest of the shank, and then tapered to take the drill chuck. Then? friend found a Lewis shaper like his own at a mutual friend's estate sale. He bought it, and sold it to me. Packed up the drill press, and started working on the shaper. Once it's working, I will make an entire new quill for it. That's my story, and I'm sticking to it!? This was all before I got to take the class. Since the clas started, I've found an Atlas TH42, 10"x24" in the system used to specify the mini-lathe. Posted on one of the metalworking groups that I'd been looking for a South Bend lathe and Shaper, since I'd used them in my class, and the same friend, Bill Hinkle, told me he might be able to make part of my dream come true. He had a South Bend Heavy 10L toolroom lathe that he'd decided he wasn't going to live long enough to restore. At which point my wife interrupted our conversation, and told him I couldn't buy it. Naturally my heart sank! Then she said she wanted to buy it for me, for Christmas! YAY!!! It's about maybe a third of the way through being stripped of all the rust and grunge five years in a leaky barn can cause. TMS!? Just before the COVID-19 shutdowns, my closest brother bought a Smithy CB-1220XL 3-in-1 machine, lathe/mill/drill, from a friend of his, who bought it new in 1997, and had barely started to set it up when he got too busy, and it had never even been cleaned or plugged in. And brought it to me. I think it's a hint! All the oil and grease have turned to varnish, so it's also being refurbed. The lathe portion has been stripped, needs the new bearing installed, and put back together. TMS, again!

All these machines have about one thing in common, and that is they weigh quite a bit more than the Unimat DB/SL machines. The Atlas is 267lbs. The SB is 1067lbs. The Smithy is only 400lbs, and my 7x10 was about 100lbs. A few months over a year ago, I'd mentioned on another metalworking board that I'd be willing to trade my 7x10 for a Unimat. A gentleman had one that needed some restoration work, and was interested in my 7x10. I had enough goodies for it that he paid me well enough to buy another Unimat that also needed some work, but that I was well qualified to deal with. Made three people happy in that deal! First one is almost done, but got interrupted by my youngest child moving back in. Second on came in the box, and it, with the accessories that came with it, weighs right at 25lbs. I've got to work on my wife's "new" wheelchair lift van, and once it's done, and the bench behind me gets cleared off, the two Unimats will be next in the refurbishment queue. They are both getting 24vdc 150W motors, variable speed controllers with regulated power supplies, and a 24vdc battery pack so they can be operated under "austere" conditions.?

I'll be able to use them even if I can't use the larger machines, to make bearings, bushings, small shafts, pins, screws, nuts, bolts and such...? Gun parts, molds, jets, maybe even some small motors. And Mert Baker showed me that a guy could even make a barrel for a 9mm Lugar pistol on a Unimat... Wish I hadn't lost the photo in the hard drive crash years ago. It looked like it was a factory part! Yes, they're very small. Makes them pretty portable! No, you can't hog off an eighth of an inch of metal on one. Not all at once. But you and can take it off a few thousandths of an inch at a time, and get that 1/8" off if you'll have a little patience. Within certain limits, it's easier to do small parts on small machines, and leave the larger parts to larger machines. But starting with a Unimat, you could, if you last long enough bootstrap yourself up to a larger lathe. A lot of the bits and pieces for a Gingery lathe, for example, could be turned on a Unimat. Then that could make larger parts, and so on, ad infinitem!?

If you only have one, you can convert it into a milling machine, again, a small one, but as I have two, one will be an mill, and one a lathe. Both configurations are better for some things than others, and you can very well use both! Even if you must change back and forth.?

Bill in OKC


Re: Why Unimat?

 

I have a number of answers, based in several imperatives I've experienced over the past nearly 60 years. First off, back before Prepping was even a thing, my 2nd step-father was expecting Armageddon any minute now. That was 1965. He was training my little brother and I (10yo & 8.5yo) to be his own little private army. Our grandma was Mormon, and kept spare food for when times got tough, based on the teachings of her new church, (became a Mormon in 1955, the year I was born) and having been a newly-wed wife & mother during the Great Depression. We asked our SF why he wasn't storing food. He said we didn't have to, as the Mormons were storing it for us. We were being trained to take it from others, IOW. Knowing my grandpa and grandma, this just didn't seem like a really good idea. ;) We got knives, and bb guns, and training in how to use them. Also encouraged to play war games with our friends, and we watched Combat! and Sea Hunt with him on TV. With tips on how to do better, fighting. He was UDT in the navy. That was the base organization that later became Navy SEAL's. We noted that he wasn't reloading, wasn't practicing shooting firearms, and wasn't storing parts for them, either.?

Grandpa was a serious DIY guy. He bought his house in 1943, and by the time I was living there with them, at age 4, he'd tripled the size of it. Before I was in my teens, he had the very first sidewalk in the neighborhood, a two-car garage, covered patio, and paved two-car driveway. Dad was, too, but also had a 2nd family by the time I was 6. He'd spent summers at his grandparent's farm, and wanted to be a farmer, but there wasn't much call for it when his family moved to Cali, since they turned into city folk. He did shoot, reload, build and fix things, since most of the time he couldn't afford to buy them new and in good shape. Did a bit of amateur gunsmithing, too, but mostly had to buy parts to fix his guns, and automobiles. Got into CB radio, then Amateur radio. Did some Army National Guard time as a communications troop. Carrying, setting up, and operating a Model 15 teletype in the field, until they let him become a cook. He like that lots better, but still had a few Model 15 TTY's in his stash when I left his home in 1972. He also read a lot about making/repairing/fixing stuff. Had decades worth of American Rifleman and Popular Electronics magazines. I first read about the Unimats in those. Seemed a really good thing to get, but they were expensive! The Atlas and South Bend lathes and shapers looked really good, too, but were WAY more expensive, and larger, too. And I'd moved 32 times by the time I turned 18, and enlisted in the USAF. Small and portable looked really really good!

Took a machine shop class my senior year of high school. IIRC, it was only one quarter, may have been a semester, but I only had time to learn a bit about the lathe, and shaper. Fell in LOVE with those tools! South Bend, the both of them, but I'd have taken anything I could get! Except that I could not find one. Got a job after I graduated, in June 1973, making $1.25/hour at Kmart's building materials department. Wanted the Jewelry department, but they didn't have any openings at the time. Was interested in lapidary, jewelry making, and photography. One of my neighbors when I lived with my dad in Colorado was the first person to make accurate copies of the Clovis points, and had hundreds of other types and styles of knapped flint, obsidian, and other stone arrow heads, spear points, scrapers, hand axes, and such. I'd moved back to Cali in '72 to go to the high school where they had the machine shop class, but I was lucky I'd worked my tailsection off most of my senior year, or I probably wouldn't have gotten even the one short class. I screwed up biggly in freshmen year at that same HS, and flunked every class but one. Dad moved to CO, and took my brother and I with him to give me a chance to mend my attitude, and do better in school. Worked, too. I wasn't quite a s stupid as I had been when I got back, and had learned how to work for things I wanted...

I loved that machine shop class, but wasn't quite bright enough to understand that I'd need to take another class or two to learn it. Enlisted in the USAF, and probably could have gotten them to train me, but didn't ask. Wanted a job in electronics, and they promised me one when I enlisted. Turned out, Aircraft Maintenance was dual qualified, electrical or mechanical, and my scores in both were good enough to get in. Base score required then was 50 in either field, and I'd done much better than that. Learned to be a pretty good aircraft mechanic, but wrecked my knees the first winter I spend on the flightline at Cannon AFB, the winter of 1974/1975. Got offered to retrain into something that wouldn't be so hard on my knees. Despite having been to the base machine shop a couple of times, I didn't even think about asking to become a machinist. YDS. Young, DUMB, and STUPID! :)? Did ten years as a photographer for the USAF, documenting aircraft accidents, weapons systems development, and grip and grins. Awards photos. Made Tech Sergeant, and got chained to a desk, doing paperwork and no photography for me! Field was over in TSgt's, and they asked if I'd like to retrain again. Still pretty YDS at age 30. ;) Retrained into Satellite Communications. Did that my last 12 years in the USAF. Had enough problems with what was pretty new equipment then that I'd gotten more interested in machining, and I'd been reading everything I could lay my hands on about machining, and had been looking for a smallish lathe on and off for all that time. Missed being able to get a Emco Maximat 5 in Germany twice over the course of a decade and a half. They had them in a department store in Wiesbaden, Germany. First time, I was there for a small surgery, only a few days, and they wouldn't let me cash a check for more than $25, and the lathe was about $350, or DM1000, in 1983, then I was stationed there in December 1991, but my wife was pregnant, and needed baby stuff in 1992, and then again in 1994... The funny thing was that the lathe was still about DM1000, but that was around $1000 by then.?

Came to Oklahoma in 1996, retired in 1997, with another baby just a couple of months before I retired. Shoes, clothing, diapers, toys, furniture, books, and food! No money for machine tools. And exhibited even more YDS, at age 42, and decided to become a school teacher. Ten years, over $100K in student loans, for a 3 year teaching career. I have over 300 semester hours of college credits. A pair of associate degrees. I was 6 hours from having what would have been my 2nd AAS when I retired, and lost it. Got the actual 2nd AA in Liberal Studies, then a bachelor's in Social Studies Secondary Education, and somewhere between 1/3 & 1/2 of a master's in Special Education, when I developed undiagnosed obstructive sleep apnea in the middle of my third attempt to do a full year of supervised teaching experience. First two, didn't have the full school year, and the last one I got to where I couldn't write a lesson plan, or follow one someone else wrote for me, and didn't get the diagnosis until just a few weeks before the school year was over. Challenged the non-recommendation on the medical basis, and was given another chance, but no one would take a chance on me. Wound up going back to work as a strong-back-weak-mind person, which got me back in very good physical condition, and gave me an intro to a maintenance job for the laundry company I was working for. The apnea showed up in 2008, teaching career crashed completely in 2012.

2008 or 2009, I woke up one morning from a horrible terrible dream. Ten foot tall screaming aliens with spears attacking my friends and I and all we have three muzzle-loading rifles to fight them with, and I knew we were all going to die, and it would be my fault because I couldn't build the rifles fast enough. Anyone who's read David Drake's book "Ranks of Bronze" will recognize the situation, as it's the first chapter, except that his protagonist has much of a Roman Legion to face their enemy. That morning, I got up, dressed, and went to the new Harbor Freight store, and bough myself an HF 93212 7"x10" mini-lathe. And in late 2014, around Christmas time, I was griping that I still couldn't get it to do anything I really wanted it to do. Wife cut to the chase and said, "Bill, take another class!"? So I did. Started at Francis Tuttle Technology Center's Portland campus in February 2015, going full time, and working full time. Should have been able to finish the class in 8-9 months. BUT! I wasn't a teenager anymore. Moved to the part-time class, 2 days a week, 3 hours per class. Took me 7 years and 3 months to the day to finish it. ;) Well, at least I ain't young anymore!?

Fairly early in the class, though, I found out what the problems was, and it was not the 7x10 mini-lathe, it was the lathe operator. I could not get accurate measurements. There is a sense of touch you need to develop to get good, accurate, repeatable measurements, and if I ever had it, I'd lost it. IIRC, I'd made a tap wrench and a riveting hammer in my class in high school. All the other metalworking I'd done was not stuff that required great accuracy. The TLAR method was all I needed. That Looks About Right! Spent a class or two with my 6" dial caliper and 1" micrometer, and the school's Class A Johansen block set, and learned how to get accurate measurements! Those blocks were accurate to within 50 millionths of an inch. I just needed to get within .001", and a bit later, .0001". Which I can do now, as long as I don't get in a rush!?

I've also spent much of those years looking for machine tools. And mostly not finding them. My dad gave me the Craftsman 15" drill press that used to have pride of place in his workshop. My next-to-youngest brother, who's a 6'8" 300lb gorilla, bent the quill on it. After I got the 7x10, I tried to fix it. Knew I couldn't straighten it out. (Might well have been wrong about that, too!) so cut the bent part down, and threaded it. With a die, since I wasn't doing all that well at measuring. ;) Very rough thread, too. Was going put a new piece of threaded material on there, cut to match the rest of the shank, and then tapered to take the drill chuck. Then? friend found a Lewis shaper like his own at a mutual friend's estate sale. He bought it, and sold it to me. Packed up the drill press, and started working on the shaper. Once it's working, I will make an entire new quill for it. That's my story, and I'm sticking to it!? This was all before I got to take the class. Since the clas started, I've found an Atlas TH42, 10"x24" in the system used to specify the mini-lathe. Posted on one of the metalworking groups that I'd been looking for a South Bend lathe and Shaper, since I'd used them in my class, and the same friend, Bill Hinkle, told me he might be able to make part of my dream come true. He had a South Bend Heavy 10L toolroom lathe that he'd decided he wasn't going to live long enough to restore. At which point my wife interrupted our conversation, and told him I couldn't buy it. Naturally my heart sank! Then she said she wanted to buy it for me, for Christmas! YAY!!! It's about maybe a third of the way through being stripped of all the rust and grunge five years in a leaky barn can cause. TMS!? Just before the COVID-19 shutdowns, my closest brother bought a Smithy CB-1220XL 3-in-1 machine, lathe/mill/drill, from a friend of his, who bought it new in 1997, and had barely started to set it up when he got too busy, and it had never even been cleaned or plugged in. And brought it to me. I think it's a hint! All the oil and grease have turned to varnish, so it's also being refurbed. The lathe portion has been stripped, needs the new bearing installed, and put back together. TMS, again!

All these machines have about one thing in common, and that is they weigh quite a bit more than the Unimat DB/SL machines. The Atlas is 267lbs. The SB is 1067lbs. The Smithy is only 400lbs, and my 7x10 was about 100lbs. A few months over a year ago, I'd mentioned on another metalworking board that I'd be willing to trade my 7x10 for a Unimat. A gentleman had one that needed some restoration work, and was interested in my 7x10. I had enough goodies for it that he paid me well enough to buy another Unimat that also needed some work, but that I was well qualified to deal with. Made three people happy in that deal! First one is almost done, but got interrupted by my youngest child moving back in. Second on came in the box, and it, with the accessories that came with it, weighs right at 25lbs. I've got to work on my wife's "new" wheelchair lift van, and once it's done, and the bench behind me gets cleared off, the two Unimats will be next in the refurbishment queue. They are both getting 24vdc 150W motors, variable speed controllers with regulated power supplies, and a 24vdc battery pack so they can be operated under "austere" conditions.?

I'll be able to use them even if I can't use the larger machines, to make bearings, bushings, small shafts, pins, screws, nuts, bolts and such...? Gun parts, molds, jets, maybe even some small motors. And Mert Baker showed me that a guy could even make a barrel for a 9mm Lugar pistol on a Unimat... Wish I hadn't lost the photo in the hard drive crash years ago. It looked like it was a factory part! Yes, they're very small. Makes them pretty portable! No, you can't hog off an eighth of an inch of metal on one. Not all at once. But you and can take it off a few thousandths of an inch at a time, and get that 1/8" off if you'll have a little patience. Within certain limits, it's easier to do small parts on small machines, and leave the larger parts to larger machines. But starting with a Unimat, you could, if you last long enough bootstrap yourself up to a larger lathe. A lot of the bits and pieces for a Gingery lathe, for example, could be turned on a Unimat. Then that could make larger parts, and so on, ad infinitem!?

If you only have one, you can convert it into a milling machine, again, a small one, but as I have two, one will be an mill, and one a lathe. Both configurations are better for some things than others, and you can very well use both! Even if you must change back and forth.?

Bill in OKC


Re: Why Unimat?

 

Unimat is one of the few small lathes that you can take out of the box set up on the kitchen table, do decent work with . And then put it back in it's wooden brief case, and stow away under a bed or closet until the next time. It can handle watch, clock repair, small kits, steam engines and a host of other projects and still be carried under your arm. The 7x lathes are nice, but they are not that portable.
?Jeff


-----Original Message-----
From: Charles Kinzer <ckinzer@...>
To: [email protected] <[email protected]>
Sent: Wed, Apr 12, 2023 12:16 pm
Subject: Re: [Unimat] Why Unimat?

That's an interesting question since it involves a desire for a "hobbyist" lathe, whatever the brand, but in the year 2023.

Long ago, the appeal of the Unimat was that it made a hobby lathe a possibility.? I don't there was very much, if any, competition for that size lathe and certainly not with its features.? There was the Adept lathe made in the UK and I know that at least some model railroad hobbyists had them.? (Adept seemed to phase out of the marketplace in the 1960's about when Unimat phased in.)? And then there was the Manson Lathe (later Master Lathe) marketed to hobbyists, but it was quite small and very limited in performance.? And any number of watchmaker style lathes.

So, when the Unimat came along with a lot of features at a pretty reasonable price it really filled a mostly open niche.? Especially since the basic machine could also do respectable milling and act as a drill press which seemed pretty unique at the time.

I think they did that with a fairly elegant design (even if it didn't have cast ways) where the "basic" machine would satisfy the needs of the majority of buyers at a reasonable price.? For the small percentage of people who needed more features, there was the vast array of accessories.? The accessories today being far more rare than the basic machine.? They were first marketed as "10 in 1" machines but you had to buy major accessories to get the count up to ten.? After a while they marketed it as a "6 in 1" with what the basic machine could do and eventually a "5 in 1" as they dropped the configuration of using the head as a hand power drill in their promotion.

But that was then, this is now.? You probably already have what would be my "today" choice for "hobby" sized machine with the Sherline.? Of course, you have to buy a separate lathe and mill if you want decent milling.? (Milling in a lathe with a milling attachment usually being rather limited in performance - but an option if only doing a little of it and only doing fairly light work.)

For just a "small" lathe, the Chinese 7xWhatever "mini-lathes" are hard to beat on price for they can do.? The thing is you might have to do a lot of work on the lathe depending on the quality of performance you want.? Some jokingly call them "kits".? But some are happy with them out of the box.? The primary advantage other than handling much larger work pieces than a Unimat or Sherline or Taig, while still having a pretty small footprint, is that they are a real "engine lathe" with built in power feed and thread cutting (with change gears).? So, it is more in a class with the 6 inch Atlas, I suppose.? But more compact.? Also, prices have been rising to buy a new 7xWhatever over the last few years, but still competitive.? I suggested to people a few years back to get them while the getting was good as it was likely prices would start going up a lot - and they have.

But for today, I don't see the Unimat as a best choice if you are looking for price versus performance.? If you are wanting a tool to use rather than to collect.? Too much of the price is because it is a collectors' item rather than for performance.? However, you can get a perfectly usable Unimat for a lot less than a new Sherline.? Unimats are actually typically less in "real dollars" compared to what they cost new.? In 1960 a basic Unimat was about $139 and that is $1400 in today's dollars.

For a new hobbyist lathe, I very much prefer the Sherline over the Taig.? And if desiring to get a "real" lathe where you don't need ham handed accessories to power feed or thread, then a Chinese 7xWhatever or a used 6 inch Atlas (or Craftsman) would top my list.

There are some other very respectable products such as the Prazi lathes, but they are quite expensive.? Or other alternatives for the Atlas 6 inch class lathe such as the Myford from the UK, but that's also expensive and much larger than a "hobbyist" size lathe.

On a more general note, I'm a believer in trying to get the machine you want even if you have to save up for it for a while.? It is no fun in the long run to get the machine you didn't want.? Also, for anyone who actually MAKES anything, there will likely be a lot of tooling also purchased.? Sometimes a lot of tooling.? And that costs about the same whether putting it on the lathe you really wanted versus the lathe you didn't want.

Charles E. "Chuck" Kinzer

On Wednesday, April 12, 2023 at 07:59:30 AM PDT, Aaron Woods <awoods550@...> wrote:


I don't have a Unimat. I'd like one but I already have several small lathes so getting one is simply a want rather than a need.

I became interested in a lathe for model work, and ended up buying a Sherline, since they could be bought new and have a good reputation.?

The topic of small lathes often comes up in modeling circles. I can do a decent comparison between Taig, Sherline and Atlas / Craftsman 6" since I have used them, but have never been hands on with a Unimat.

For somebody in the market for a small lathe, what would you say the major perks of a Unimat are??

Obviously size goes for the SL/SB if someone wants very compact and the various attachments can make it a handy if expensive many in one tool.

With the prices Unimats can ask, I begin to wonder if they are still a good suggestion for a beginner. You can get a new Taig or Sherline for about the same money as the average asking price of a Unimat.
As I don't have experience with Unimat that is a question I can't answer.


Re: Why Unimat?

 

That's an interesting question since it involves a desire for a "hobbyist" lathe, whatever the brand, but in the year 2023.

Long ago, the appeal of the Unimat was that it made a hobby lathe a possibility.? I don't there was very much, if any, competition for that size lathe and certainly not with its features.? Therre was the Adept lathe made in the UK and I know that at least some model railroad hobbyists had them.? (Adept seemed to phase out of the marketplace in the 1960's about when Unimat phased in.)? And then there was the Manson Lathe (later Master Lathe) marketed to hobbyists, but it was quite small and very limited in performance.? And any number of watchmaker style lathes.

So, when the Unimat came along with a lot of features at a pretty reasonable price it really filled a mostly open niche.? Especially since the basic machine could also do respectable milling and act as a drill press which seemed pretty unique at the time.

I think they did that with a fairly elegant design (even if it didn't have cast ways) where the "basic" machine would satisfy the needs of the majority of buyers at a reasonable price.? For the small percentage of people who needed more features, there was the vast array of accessories.? The accessories today being far more rare than the basic machine.? They were first marketed as "10 in 1" machines but you had to buy major accessories to get the count up to ten.? After a while they marketed it as a "6 in 1" with what the basic machine could do and eventually a "5 in 1" as they dropped the configuration of using the head as a hand power drill in their promotion.

But that was then, this is now.? You probably already have what would be my "today" choice for "hobby" sized machine with the Sherline.? Of course, you have to buy a separate lathe and mill if you want decent milling.? (Milling in a lathe with a milling attachment usually being rather limited in performance - but an option if only doing a little of it and only doing fairly light work.)

For just a "small" lathe, the Chinese 7xWhatever "mini-lathes" are hard to beat on price for they can do.? The thing is you might have to do a lot of work on the lathe depending on the quality of performance you want.? Some jokingly call them "kits".? But some are happy with them out of the box.? The primary advantage other than handling much larger work pieces than a Unimat or Sherline or Taig, while still having a pretty small footprint, is that they are a real "engine lathe" with built in power feed and thread cutting (with change gears).? So, it is more in a class with the 6 inch Atlas, I suppose.? But more compact.? Also, prices have been rising to buy a new 7xWhatever over the last few years, but still competitive.? I suggested to people a few years back to get them while the getting was good as it was likely prices would start going up a lot - and they have.

But for today, I don't see the Unimat as a best choice if you are looking for price versus performance.? If you are wanting a tool to use rather than to collect.? Too much of the price is because it is a collectors' item rather than for performance.? However, you can get a perfectly usable Unimat for a lot less than a new Sherline.? Unimats are actually typically less in "real dollars" compared to what they cost new.? In 1960 a basic Unimat was about $139 and that is $1400 in today's dollars.

For a new hobbyist lathe, I very much prefer the Sherline over the Taig.? And if desiring to get a "real" lathe where you don't need ham handed accessories to power feed or thread, then a Chinese 7xWhatever or a used 6 inch Atlas (or Craftsman) would top my list.

There are some other very respectable products such as the Prazi lathes, but they are quite expensive.? Or other alternatives for the Atlas 6 inch class lathe such as the Myford from the UK, but that's also expensive and much larger than a "hobbyist" size lathe.

On a more general note, I'm a believer in trying to get the machine you want even if you have to save up for it for a while.? It is no fun in the long run to get the machine you didn't want.? Also, for anyone who actually MAKES anything, there will likely be a lot of tooling also purchased.? Sometimes a lot of tooling.? And that costs about the same whether putting it on the lathe you really wanted versus the lathe you didn't want.

Charles E. "Chuck" Kinzer

On Wednesday, April 12, 2023 at 07:59:30 AM PDT, Aaron Woods <awoods550@...> wrote:


I don't have a Unimat. I'd like one but I already have several small lathes so getting one is simply a want rather than a need.

I became interested in a lathe for model work, and ended up buying a Sherline, since they could be bought new and have a good reputation.?

The topic of small lathes often comes up in modeling circles. I can do a decent comparison between Taig, Sherline and Atlas / Craftsman 6" since I have used them, but have never been hands on with a Unimat.

For somebody in the market for a small lathe, what would you say the major perks of a Unimat are??

Obviously size goes for the SL/SB if someone wants very compact and the various attachments can make it a handy if expensive many in one tool.

With the prices Unimats can ask, I begin to wonder if they are still a good suggestion for a beginner. You can get a new Taig or Sherline for about the same money as the average asking price of a Unimat.
As I don't have experience with Unimat that is a question I can't answer.


Re: Why Unimat?

 

Major perks are the size, portability. The multitude of add on and tasks that it can do. It truly is a all in one machines that you can use as needed or time allows and then put it away. I also have a long bed Atlas 10" and a antique Monarch 14" QC that I use.
?Jeff


-----Original Message-----
From: Aaron Woods <awoods550@...>
To: [email protected]
Sent: Wed, Apr 12, 2023 10:59 am
Subject: [Unimat] Why Unimat?

I don't have a Unimat. I'd like one but I already have several small lathes so getting one is simply a want rather than a need.

I became interested in a lathe for model work, and ended up buying a Sherline, since they could be bought new and have a good reputation.?

The topic of small lathes often comes up in modeling circles. I can do a decent comparison between Taig, Sherline and Atlas / Craftsman 6" since I have used them, but have never been hands on with a Unimat.

For somebody in the market for a small lathe, what would you say the major perks of a Unimat are??

Obviously size goes for the SL/SB if someone wants very compact and the various attachments can make it a handy if expensive many in one tool.

With the prices Unimats can ask, I begin to wonder if they are still a good suggestion for a beginner. You can get a new Taig or Sherline for about the same money as the average asking price of a Unimat.
As I don't have experience with Unimat that is a question I can't answer.


Re: Why Unimat?

 

I have a unimat 3, why a unimat, well I also have 2 smaller lathes a flexispeed and a watchmakers lathe, yet my preference is the unimat, somehow itd just sturdier and more precise than the smaller lathes, I have more accessories for the unimat too maybe, a collet chuck and live and dead centres for the tailstock, so yes, when it comes to making small stuff I default to the unimat, I certainly wouldnt go bigger (i have a 13" south bend for big stuff- if its too big for the unimat, then it goes in the southbend. I do use the other lathes sometimes, depends where I am, the flexispeed is at my electronics bench upstairs, the watchmakers at my modelling workbench, and the Unimat is in the workshop, so that sometimes dictates which lathe to use. for instance I used the flexispeed to create an 8BA eyebolt the other week (yes an approx 2mm thread eyebolt) (it was cold in the workshop)


------ Original Message ------
From "Aaron Woods" <awoods550@...>
Date 12/04/2023 15:59:25
Subject [Unimat] Why Unimat?

I don't have a Unimat. I'd like one but I already have several small lathes so getting one is simply a want rather than a need.

I became interested in a lathe for model work, and ended up buying a Sherline, since they could be bought new and have a good reputation.?

The topic of small lathes often comes up in modeling circles. I can do a decent comparison between Taig, Sherline and Atlas / Craftsman 6" since I have used them, but have never been hands on with a Unimat.

For somebody in the market for a small lathe, what would you say the major perks of a Unimat are??

Obviously size goes for the SL/SB if someone wants very compact and the various attachments can make it a handy if expensive many in one tool.

With the prices Unimats can ask, I begin to wonder if they are still a good suggestion for a beginner. You can get a new Taig or Sherline for about the same money as the average asking price of a Unimat.
As I don't have experience with Unimat that is a question I can't answer.


Re: Why Unimat?

 

This seems a perfect answer.

I operate old ham radios

I reload ammunition using old reloaders.

The quality and craftsmanship of vintage machines gives me pride of ownership and use.

John


On Wed, Apr 12, 2023 at 11:05?AM Steve Johnson <steve@...> wrote:
For me, I love old things, especially tools and machines. I smile whenever I look at my Unimat. Such a beautiful machine. And also because I only need it for super small parts, the tiny size is perfect. If I ever need to do larger parts, I would go for a Sherline.?

I think some people like them as collector pieces, buying all of the accessories - most of which I would never use (scroll saw, grinder, hand drill for example). I actually have two of them, one will be set up as a mill, the other a lathe.


Re: Why Unimat?

 

For me, I love old things, especially tools and machines. I smile whenever I look at my Unimat. Such a beautiful machine. And also because I only need it for super small parts, the tiny size is perfect. If I ever need to do larger parts, I would go for a Sherline.?

I think some people like them as collector pieces, buying all of the accessories - most of which I would never use (scroll saw, grinder, hand drill for example). I actually have two of them, one will be set up as a mill, the other a lathe.


Why Unimat?

 

I don't have a Unimat. I'd like one but I already have several small lathes so getting one is simply a want rather than a need.

I became interested in a lathe for model work, and ended up buying a Sherline, since they could be bought new and have a good reputation.?

The topic of small lathes often comes up in modeling circles. I can do a decent comparison between Taig, Sherline and Atlas / Craftsman 6" since I have used them, but have never been hands on with a Unimat.

For somebody in the market for a small lathe, what would you say the major perks of a Unimat are??

Obviously size goes for the SL/SB if someone wants very compact and the various attachments can make it a handy if expensive many in one tool.

With the prices Unimats can ask, I begin to wonder if they are still a good suggestion for a beginner. You can get a new Taig or Sherline for about the same money as the average asking price of a Unimat.
As I don't have experience with Unimat that is a question I can't answer.


Re: Unimat pc basic: question on dead center / alignment bar

 

"I don=t lie the tailstock"

That's?

I don't like the tailstock

Must type even slower!


Re: Unimat pc basic: question on dead center / alignment bar

 

On Sat, Apr 8, 2023 at 03:14 AM, jpow wrote:
4. Unimat pc has an eccentric off center spindle on tailstock that allows adjustment supposedly in one axis (to front / rear of) Wouldnt this? adjustment would move the center point in both horizontal and vertical directions??

Yes, it does, but if you calculate the vertical movement compared to horizontal it is negligible. And if you work out the effect it would have on turning a cylinder, it would make it into a very shallow hyperboloid. Not considered too important for the jobs the machine was intended for. However, I don=t lie the tailstock and will be designing a new one once that project rises up the priority list. I picture a very traditional unit with a horizontal adjustment, largely machined from bocks of aluminium alloy. Details here when - if - it happens.


Re: 4 jaw chuck M12 x 1 thread

 

Just got my 3 jaw from India yesterday. A bit grimey, and kinda rough on the backplate (but machined smooth where it contacts the spindle). I'll have to measure runout when I get a chance, but seems decent for the price.

I also bought a Sherline 4 jaw and am super impressed with it. Way more solid than the Emco original.


Re: 4 jaw chuck M12 x 1 thread

 

I bought the 4 jaw Indian chuck off ebay, initially I was disappointed as it was very rough movement. I stripped it down and used a small needle file and did a small ammount of work on the contact surfaces and the edges. Honestly it is fine now, I suppose it's the old story, you get what you pay for.
I've never seen a chuck this size and it was a bit of a shock when compared to my 4" mini lathe chuck


Re: unimat 3 cnc

 

Hi Alexander can you give more details on your quick change tool post? Did you make it yourself? Thx!?