Be careful of the dimensions. Some circles are dimensioned as Radius rather than Diameter, not standard engineering practice. In other places mating parts are dimensioned as Diameters.
"Unimat Mk. 4: Notable for the introduction of a rounded "step" in front of the headstock through which a simple vertical alignment pin could pass, this was the last version of the Unimat to use a cast-iron base. There was also a slight bevelling of the upper corners of the headstock support - an alteration that would be reflected in the forthcoming die-cast design - and the headstock itself may also have been increased in size slightly but with corners of a tighter radius (measurements are awaited) and its milling post-retaining pin moved to a position parallel to the spindle cartridge."
On Mon, Mar 6, 2023, 10:13 PM Keith S. Angus <keithsangus@...> wrote:
Is that a cast iron base? Looks like an alloy one to me - I don't think the locating pin for the headstock was used on cast iron. As regards paint, the problem many of us have is that we are so used to seeing the hammered green it is hard to imagine anything else, but the early ones were black. I think a high gloss finish white like on the U3 would be good for someone who makes a point of keeping it clean. There are some very hard paints available for home use these days. I don't recognise that motor, but if there are time limits it should say so on the rating plate.
Is that a cast iron base? Looks like an alloy one to me - I don't think the locating pin for the headstock was used on cast iron. As regards paint, the problem many of us have is that we are so used to seeing the hammered green it is hard to imagine anything else, but the early ones were black. I think a high gloss finish white like on the U3 would be good for someone who makes a point of keeping it clean. There are some very hard paints available for home use these days. I don't recognise that motor, but if there are time limits it should say so on the rating plate.
On Mar 6, 2023, at 8:12 PM, Bill in OKC too via groups.io <wmrmeyers@...> wrote:
?
I believe I used hammered bronze from Rustoleum. Just went back in my posts here, and it's Hammered Dark Bronze, from Rustoleum. There isn't any green in it, but I like it. I understand that at one time, you could get a Rosemary hammered-finish paint in Canada that was very close to the original paint, but I've never seen it. Don't live in Canada.?
HTH!
Bill in OKC
William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)
Aphorisms to live by:
Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.?
SEMPER GUMBY!
Improvise, Adapt, and Overcome. Physics doesn't care about your schedule. The only reason I know anything is because I've done it wrong enough times to START to know better.
Expect in one hand, expectorate in the other. See which one gets full first.
On Monday, March 6, 2023 at 03:23:17 PM CST, <quinngolden@...> wrote:
So I decided to tear down my little Unimat and replace the bearings, way bars ?etc. and as long as I have it apart I thought I would degrease and paint it etc.
But it appears Rustoleum Verde Green hammertone is no longer available. Anybody have any thoughts on an alternate? ?
On Sun, Mar 5, 2023 at 06:26 AM, OldToolmaker wrote:
Hello Keith, I also think it is possible to couple the lead screw to the spindle through a set of change gears to obtain various thread leads. It could be an interesting design exercise but not very practical for me as I have a 7X 16 lathe for this sort of work. Dick
Something like this would work, with minilathe change gears, too, just with a fixed drive shaft under or behind the bed instead of the telescoping one - a stepper based threading attachment might be simpler and lose less power, though.
I believe I used hammered bronze from Rustoleum. Just went back in my posts here, and it's Hammered Dark Bronze, from Rustoleum. There isn't any green in it, but I like it. I understand that at one time, you could get a Rosemary hammered-finish paint in Canada that was very close to the original paint, but I've never seen it. Don't live in Canada.?
HTH!
Bill in OKC
William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)
Aphorisms to live by:
Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.?
SEMPER GUMBY!
Improvise, Adapt, and Overcome. Physics doesn't care about your schedule. The only reason I know anything is because I've done it wrong enough times to START to know better.
Expect in one hand, expectorate in the other. See which one gets full first.
On Monday, March 6, 2023 at 03:23:17 PM CST, <quinngolden@...> wrote:
So I decided to tear down my little Unimat and replace the bearings, way bars ?etc. and as long as I have it apart I thought I would degrease and paint it etc.
But it appears Rustoleum Verde Green hammertone is no longer available. Anybody have any thoughts on an alternate? ?
Hey Guys, Notice you can add a power feed to the leadscrew of the unimat 3 ! Does anyone have any information on where I could pick one of these up or possibally make one ? Are there plans available? etc etc
It wont be the same shade but we have a range of paints here in the UK called Hammerite. Very similar to Hammertone but the colors vary. I personally like the royal blue but what ever catches your eye ! British Racing Green is another nice color . Perhaps a little dark.
Hey Guys, Notice you can add a power feed to the leadscrew of the unimat 3 ! Does anyone have any information on where I could pick one of these up or possibally make one ? Are there plans available? etc etc
So I decided to tear down my little Unimat and replace the bearings, way bars ?etc. and as long as I have it apart I thought I would degrease and paint it etc.
But it appears Rustoleum Verde Green hammertone is no longer available. Anybody have any thoughts on an alternate? ?
Drove to VA for business this past weekend and got lucky. Picked this up for $340 on craigslst. Even has the original manuals, price list, etc. Bunch of accessories too. Cost back in the day was $169.¡Á¡Á for this one per the paperwork. Wow have the prices changed. Still its a hella of a find IMO! Going to restore it and look it over before using. I plan on keeping this one, though. Does anyone know the details of the motor? Does it still have that 8min shut off cooling feature, or is that only the U90 ones? Familiar with the lathe. Not so much the motor on this one. Also, think it's overdue for a paint job of some sort? It is a cast iron base, but paint is pretty beat up. Any ideas for a color? Original or something different? I'm at a loss on what color. Thanks in advance for the feedback and assistance. Ladies and gentlemen have a great rest of the day!
I actually agree with you on this. But I can see uses for the digital systems too. And I want to learn more about both. I wound up with a spare machine that cost me nothing but a little time. It's the one that is going digital, since it's a bit lacking in charm. I have to do something with it, and the ELS will let me turn it loose on fairly simple projects like tapers and threading without constant supervision, while I do something else. Not much artistry involved,but good for a bit of production. If I do some of the things I want to do, I'll need some unusual hardware and the ELS will help me get it.
And let we spend most of my effort on other things. :)
Bill in OKC?
William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)
Aphorisms to live by:
Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.?
SEMPER GUMBY!
Improvise, Adapt, and Overcome. Physics doesn't care about your schedule. The only reason I know anything is because I've done it wrong enough times to START to know better.
Expect in one hand, expectorate in the other. See which one gets full first.
On Monday, March 6, 2023 at 10:15:42 AM CST, OldToolmaker via groups.io <old_toolmaker@...> wrote:
Hello Bill, I prefer the simplicity of a mechanical system over a digital one, although they each have pluses and minuses. To each his own I guess. Dick
I'm getting ready to make one of John Wilding's clocks, which will need a 290 tooth great wheel. I'm expecting to create some kind of digital dividing head for that, because I don't think 290 is a common gear size! Certainly not on Unimats(though I guess it's unlikely I can fit the 9 inch blank on the Unimat SL anyway).
On Mon, Mar 6, 2023, 17:15 OldToolmaker via <old_toolmaker=[email protected]> wrote:
Hello Bill, I prefer the simplicity of a mechanical system over a digital one, although they each have pluses and minuses. To each his own I guess. Dick
Hello Bill, I prefer the simplicity of a mechanical system over a digital one, although they each have pluses and minuses. To each his own I guess. Dick
John Dammeyer's ELS will do that. He's installed them on his Gingery Lathes and a SB Heavy 10L. Somebody has put one on a Unimat, as well. Uses a 1ppr encoder to track spindle speed, since those were doable without spending the world on an encoder. Newer encoders have come down a lot in price since then, but his system was designed for spindle speed up to 6000RPM.
Bill in OKC?
William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)
Aphorisms to live by:
Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.?
SEMPER GUMBY!
Improvise, Adapt, and Overcome. Physics doesn't care about your schedule. The only reason I know anything is because I've done it wrong enough times to START to know better.
Expect in one hand, expectorate in the other. See which one gets full first.
On Sunday, March 5, 2023 at 09:03:17 PM CST, Keith S. Angus <keithsangus@...> wrote:
The Carlco unit was fitted under the base, below the headstock with a toothed belt drive from the spindle, then the output shaft was on the centre line under the base, with a second toothed belt up to the saddle feed handle. As I see it all practical solutions are going to be similar, with the variables being:
Gearbox under the base, in front, or behind.
Gearbox at the head or tailstock end
The number of thread pitches accommodated as a quick change device.
In my opinion, first design the gearbox. As an alternative to the ELS system, I did read (somewhere) of an electronic gearbox. The input shaft drove an encoder, and the output shaft was driven by a motor. In between was a processor of some sort making the output bear some relation to the input. It's easy to imagine a stepper motor doing the output, and a microprocessor doing the arithmetic. The limits to performance are the speed of the microprocessor to keep up with the rate of calculations EG with the spindle running at 6000 rpm, and the torque of the output motor to drive the output with sufficient force to overcome any likely loads. The user interface might be a headache if it is a stand alone unit.
It would also be practical to have the encoder at one end, and the motor at the other end of the lathe.
The Carlco unit was fitted under the base, below the headstock with a toothed belt drive from the spindle, then the output shaft was on the centre line under the base, with a second toothed belt up to the saddle feed handle. As I see it all practical solutions are going to be similar, with the variables being:
Gearbox under the base, in front, or behind.
Gearbox at the head or tailstock end
The number of thread pitches accommodated as a quick change device.
In my opinion, first design the gearbox. As an alternative to the ELS system, I did read (somewhere) of an electronic gearbox. The input shaft drove an encoder, and the output shaft was driven by a motor. In between was a processor of some sort making the output bear some relation to the input. It's easy to imagine a stepper motor doing the output, and a microprocessor doing the arithmetic. The limits to performance are the speed of the microprocessor to keep up with the rate of calculations EG with the spindle running at 6000 rpm, and the torque of the output motor to drive the output with sufficient force to overcome any likely loads. The user interface might be a headache if it is a stand alone unit.
It would also be practical to have the encoder at one end, and the motor at the other end of the lathe.