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Re: Alternative motor for the Unimat SL

 

Looks very nice! I hope I can do as well! Was looking at buying the motors again, found someone on ebay selling them for around $35 each and free shipping here in the US, and a discount for 2 or more. Can't afford them right now, hope that's still available when I can...
Though I suppose I should finish overhauling them before I worry about it too much.?

Bill in OKC

William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)

Aphorisms to live by:
Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.?
SEMPER GUMBY!
Improvise, Adapt, and Overcome.
Physics doesn't care about your schedule.
The only reason I know anything is because I've done it wrong enough times to START to know better



On Monday, August 15, 2022 at 05:27:48 PM CDT, <sawbona@...> wrote:


Hello:


On Wed, Aug 10, 2022 at 05:18 PM, @juliushenrymarx wrote:

Still have to drill/thread the pulley.
Done.
Motor mounted:


Made a mounting plate from a 60mm fender washer I had in one of my boxes.
I did have to enlarge the hole in the clamping plate to fit the motor (24mm to 24 mm) and do some peripheral surgery to allow the screws to go into the new motor's four mounting holes.

Pulley drilled:


Looks good enough, holds tight and works quite well.
Now I have to find a proper place for an on/off switch and the speed control.
More than anything it will be for fine tuning once the belts are set within the speed range I want them.

Best,

JHM

Re: is it ok to list Unimat items for sale here?

 

I'm one of the moderators here, though not an owner. I don't have a problem with selling your excess Unimat stuff as long as you're not constantly posting ads here.?

HTH!

Bill in OKC

William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)

Aphorisms to live by:
Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.?
SEMPER GUMBY!
Improvise, Adapt, and Overcome.
Physics doesn't care about your schedule.
The only reason I know anything is because I've done it wrong enough times to START to know better



On Tuesday, August 16, 2022 at 12:43:52 PM CDT, Carl <carl.blum@...> wrote:


Hi Steve:

Here is the home site of Unimat IO groups:

/g/Unimat

It doesn't set any limits on sales, so it should be OK. Our moderator should have the final say.

I do belong to another group (Toy Trains Mailing List) that is not a "buy/sell" list, but it is noticed on there home page.

What do you have for sale?

Carl.


On 8/16/2022 12:51 PM, Steve Jaynes wrote:

I’m a frequent reader and occasional poster here. I can’t recall where the rules and regs are. ?

is it ok to list Unimat items for sale here?

Thx

Steve Jaynes
Unimat owner/collector since 1995, all generations.
Re: is it ok to list Unimat items for sale here?

 

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Hi Steve:

Here is the home site of Unimat IO groups:

/g/Unimat

It doesn't set any limits on sales, so it should be OK. Our moderator should have the final say.

I do belong to another group (Toy Trains Mailing List) that is not a "buy/sell" list, but it is noticed on there home page.

What do you have for sale?

Carl.


On 8/16/2022 12:51 PM, Steve Jaynes wrote:

I’m a frequent reader and occasional poster here. I can’t recall where the rules and regs are. ?

is it ok to list Unimat items for sale here?

Thx

Steve Jaynes
Unimat owner/collector since 1995, all generations.
Re: is it ok to list Unimat items for sale here?

 

All I find is an entry in Databases *** PLEASE READ BEFORE POSTING LINKS *** which says

Links must be Unimat related, or of direct interest to group members. Non Unimat advertising or other non related links will be deleted and repeat offenders will be banned from the group as spammers. If in doubt, please ask for clearance by posting to the group messages.


--
Jim Korman
is it ok to list Unimat items for sale here?

 

I’m a frequent reader and occasional poster here. I can’t recall where the rules and regs are. ?

is it ok to list Unimat items for sale here?

Thx

Steve Jaynes
Unimat owner/collector since 1995, all generations.
Space saving Unimat mounting board.

 


-- I mount my Unimats on pieces of phenolic coated plywood. This “baseplate” is sized to the minimum stable footprint for both Umimat-SL and 3 type lathes. I then made a larger base out of 2 thicknesses of the same plywood with a cutout in the top piece which is a tight fit fit for the?baseplates on the Unimats. I use threaded inserts and countersunk screws for locking the lathe mounting boards to the larger “bench top” baseplate. I made a routing template to make exact duplicates of the lathe baseplates. This approach saves shelf space and the large “receiver”?baseplate stores vertically behind my workbench when not in use. Dairy I don’t have photos and the shop still isn’t unpacked from our move.?
Steve Jaynes
Unimat owner/collector since 1995, all generations.
Re: Alternative motor for the Unimat SL

 

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Excellent ideas as I am about to assemble the power supply and speed control to my new motor and have been contemplating several possible solutions. I have found some 3 pin metal screw together connectors on Amazon and will use these to connnect the 110-120 power to a container and thence at the output end to the motor. I like your idea of putting a block on top of the works to hold small gubbins such as tommy bars, forceps, and whatnot.

Regards, Bill

On Aug 15, 2022, at 10:42 PM, Keith S. Angus <keithsangus@...> wrote:

On Mon, Aug 15, 2022 at 11:27 PM, @juliushenrymarx wrote:
Now I have to find a proper place for an on/off switch and the speed control.
I put my U3 on a board, with handles, so it would be easy to put it away, but the board is a bit too small - the size was decided by my SL and Proxxon mill, but needed to be bigger for the U3. However, when I use a bigger board I will add a small box to hold the speed control and switch, with a socket for the lead to my 24 V power supply. I think I'd position the box next to the tailstock, roughly. I would also put a block on top with holes to hold useful things like tommy bars, hex keys, and other stuff that you can never find when you need it. Maybe put a back on the board to stop swarf flying off in all directions - only flying off in some directions. The back could then be used as a tool rack. The whole thing then becomes a small bench you can put wherever you are working. Add a lid if you want to make the setup more portable still.

Re: Alternative motor for the Unimat SL

 

On Mon, Aug 15, 2022 at 11:27 PM, @juliushenrymarx wrote:
Now I have to find a proper place for an on/off switch and the speed control.
I put my U3 on a board, with handles, so it would be easy to put it away, but the board is a bit too small - the size was decided by my SL and Proxxon mill, but needed to be bigger for the U3. However, when I use a bigger board I will add a small box to hold the speed control and switch, with a socket for the lead to my 24 V power supply. I think I'd position the box next to the tailstock, roughly. I would also put a block on top with holes to hold useful things like tommy bars, hex keys, and other stuff that you can never find when you need it. Maybe put a back on the board to stop swarf flying off in all directions - only flying off in some directions. The back could then be used as a tool rack. The whole thing then becomes a small bench you can put wherever you are working. Add a lid if you want to make the setup more portable still.
Re: Alternative motor for the Unimat SL

 

Hello:


On Wed, Aug 10, 2022 at 05:18 PM, @juliushenrymarx wrote:

Still have to drill/thread the pulley.
Done.
Motor mounted:


Made a mounting plate from a 60mm fender washer I had in one of my boxes.
I did have to enlarge the hole in the clamping plate to fit the motor (24mm to 24 mm) and do some peripheral surgery to allow the screws to go into the new motor's four mounting holes.

Pulley drilled:


Looks good enough, holds tight and works quite well.
Now I have to find a proper place for an on/off switch and the speed control.
More than anything it will be for fine tuning once the belts are set within the speed range I want them.

Best,

JHM

power_pulley.jpg

Re: Unimat DB 200 Bearings

 

Unimat manuals specify a grease with 'NLGI 1' rating for the standard spindle - I can't read the label on the Polylube 1000 tube, but the Lucas grease is too thick. The synthetic Superlube might be okay.

Have not seen the grease specifications for the watchmakers spindle.

Jerry S
Re: Second Pen harder wood

 

You can use your tool post,? did you know that unimat made a tool rest for woodturning?

Google, unimat wood tool rest and look at the images - it is easier to use this tool rest, but I've turned with the tool bit on cross slide and then switched to the tool rest.

Your Oak and Black pen looks great.? I just did the same thing with my Grandson (who will be 12 tomorrow yesterday) on my jet mini lathe; he choose Purple Heart and we also used black pen parts...I think he had fun yesterday and he came over for dinner today and wants to turn a white pen next...?so I will have to find some 3/4 x 3/4 corian or hard surface cut-offs for his next pen.... or buy Holly (wood) blank as he wants it to be white.

I think running a shop vac is way too noisy to be relaxing, a dust collector is slightly less noisy, but still too much noise, so I use a fan behind me, but I turn in our woodshop, and I don't turn in our home, if I were using a lathe in the basement, I would have the shop vac on, but not in the shop.??

Built in danger when turning a pen with a multi jaw chuck, so watch your left hand, there are lots of accessories for turning on normal size wood lathes, and this is the reason I have lathe acquisition condition; but actually Dear Husband bought my Jet Mini wood lathe in 2010, and then we bought the unimat....? They are such fun pieces of equipment.

Collets are the most wonderful additions for wood holding for smaller diameters; I never chased the collets for the Unimat, much easier to have accessories without the "collectors" expense of chasing collets for a unimat - this was the rationalization for the Taig lathe, much easier to buy all the accessories without the collector pricing.

Tamra
Re: Unimat DB 200 Bearings

Bill's Workbench
 

Are any of these good candidates for headstock grease?
Re: Unimat 3 - Belt cover removal

 

Hello:


On Sun, Aug 14, 2022 at 02:53 AM, Keith S. Angus wrote:
... only way they could have got the cover on ...
Don't think so.
It is (apparently) the only way to get the cover off.
At the factory they would not be doing something like that, complicated and rather manual intensive.

I think that the job was probably done by putting the clamping plate in a holding jig with the plastic cover in position.
Then the pins were put/held in place and pressed into the holes.

Best,

JHM
Re: Collet chucks

 

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Hi Gang:

Also when checking run out, don't forget the spindle. Most have roller bearings of some sort. The rollers rotate at half the speed of the spindle, so if there is one large roller it is shifting the spindle every other time around. So you should take the average of every two rotations. I know this from designing an OD grinder where we could see the "rumble" of the bearings in the ground surface. We switched to an Air Bearing with no rollers to archive the nano-meter finished called for.

Carl.

On 8/14/2022 7:48 AM, Bill in OKC too via groups.io wrote:

Same way the Atlas & South Bend lathes, among many others, do. The Atlas TH42 I have used a 1-1/2"-8 tpi thread, the SB 2-1/4"-8 tpi thread, and a flat register. There are better systems, now, but the only problems with them are that you have to keep the threads, both internal and external, clean, and that if you reverse the spindle, the chuck can spin off. With an independent jaw 4-jaw chuck, a dial test indicator, and a bit of patience, you can routinely expect under .0005" runout.

Most of the time you don't need that kind of accuracy, but even before I took my class, I could do that. Instructions for that are at littlemachineshop.com in their reference section.

Bill in OKC?
Re: Collet chucks

 

Same way the Atlas & South Bend lathes, among many others, do. The Atlas TH42 I have used a 1-1/2"-8 tpi thread, the SB 2-1/4"-8 tpi thread, and a flat register. There are better systems, now, but the only problems with them are that you have to keep the threads, both internal and external, clean, and that if you reverse the spindle, the chuck can spin off. With an independent jaw 4-jaw chuck, a dial test indicator, and a bit of patience, you can routinely expect under .0005" runout.

Most of the time you don't need that kind of accuracy, but even before I took my class, I could do that. Instructions for that are at littlemachineshop.com in their reference section.

Bill in OKC?

William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)

Aphorisms to live by:
Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.?
SEMPER GUMBY!
Improvise, Adapt, and Overcome.
Physics doesn't care about your schedule.
The only reason I know anything is because I've done it wrong enough times to START to know better



On Sunday, August 14, 2022 at 01:10:18 AM CDT, Keith S. Angus <keithsangus@...> wrote:


On Sat, Aug 13, 2022 at 10:30 PM, g steinback wrote:
Many years ago Doug Collinge produced a nice tutorial on machining a collet holder -

/g/Unimat/files/ER-16%20Collets/Unimat%20ER-16%20Collet%20Holder.pdf
Just read through the section on cutting the recess in the back of the holder at 13 mm, and the explanation is just plain wrong. It is based on a failure to understand the precision that can be reached on these simple machines, a lack of appreciation of the actual clearances in standard screw threads and the clamping action when tightening the thread. All the experienced engineers I work with understand these things, and have no problem grasping how the 12 mm register achieves concentricity.

Re: Collet chucks

 

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Yes I would be looking to sell if your definitely interested?

?

On 13 Aug 2022, at 17:30, Jarod Alderson <alderj601@...> wrote:

?
I would definitely be?interested. Keep my email handy if you decide?to sell.

On Sat, Aug 13, 2022, 1:39 AM Nigel Pearson via <nigelpearson=[email protected]> wrote:
This belonged to my late father along with a SL machine.
I am prepared to sell the chuck and will be selling the machine along with loads of other bits when I get round to sorting it all out
Thanks
Nigel

?

On 12 Aug 2022, at 17:35, Nigel Pearson <nigelpearson@...> wrote:

?I have a chuck and set of collets for a SL machine?

?

On 12 Aug 2022, at 17:07, Leslie Bevis-Smith <leslie.bevis.smith@...> wrote:

?
UNIMAT used to offer a complete watchmakers collet sleeve for the SL to replace the standard type (which takes chucks). It is a lovely piece of equipment and is designed for 8mm collets. Leslie

On Fri, 12 Aug 2022 at 16:58, Jarod <alderj601@...> wrote:
Am I crazy or is it impossible to find sl1000 collet set up. Factory or aftermarket has eluded me. Does anyone know of a readily available m12x1 collet chuck?

image0.jpeg
Re: Collet chucks

 

On Sat, Aug 13, 2022 at 10:30 PM, g steinback wrote:
Many years ago Doug Collinge produced a nice tutorial on machining a collet holder -

/g/Unimat/files/ER-16%20Collets/Unimat%20ER-16%20Collet%20Holder.pdf
Just read through the section on cutting the recess in the back of the holder at 13 mm, and the explanation is just plain wrong. It is based on a failure to understand the precision that can be reached on these simple machines, a lack of appreciation of the actual clearances in standard screw threads and the clamping action when tightening the thread. All the experienced engineers I work with understand these things, and have no problem grasping how the 12 mm register achieves concentricity.
Re: Collet chucks

 

On Sat, Aug 13, 2022 at 10:30 PM, g steinback wrote:
Many years ago Doug Collinge produced a nice tutorial on machining a collet holder -

/g/Unimat/files/ER-16%20Collets/Unimat%20ER-16%20Collet%20Holder.pdf
All very well, but he makes the recess in the back 13 mm diameter, thus losing a major location. I always aim for 11.99/12.00 mm, achieved with a slightly worn machine reamer and verified with a bit of 12.0 mm (actually 11.99 mm) silver steel (drill rod) and aluminium foil. I made various holders from brass, and the first time they were screwed on they were stiff, and left a witness mark of brass on the 12.00 spindle nose. This was before final machining of the holders or whatever I was making.

I have yet to set up for the equivalent for the U3 - so far I have not made any special tooling for it.
Re: Unimat 3 - Belt cover removal

 

On Sat, Aug 13, 2022 at 11:59 PM, @juliushenrymarx wrote:
Keith's hot water method worked a wonder.
Glad it worked, as I never actually tried it! I just reasoned that the only way they could have got the cover on was to stretch it over the pins, so that was the only way to get it off. It did not occur to me at the time to try a bit of heat.
Re: Collet chucks

 

I built a collet chuck for my SL to allow me to use my TAIG collets on my SL. The TAIG headstock uses a 3/4-16 threads so I purchased a grade 3 3/4 bolt and cut 12-1 threads to thread it onto the spindle, then cut the relief for the collets. Used the standard TAIG collet nut to close. Runout is excellent, I couldn’t get it to register on my dial indicator.

I have minimal machining skill, if I can do it anybody can. Not sure what thread the er16 collet nut uses, but I would start there.

Pat
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