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Re: Looking for a DB 200 part
Lowes and Home Depot don't have those taps and dies. They're not standard metric threads. M12-1.25 & M12-1.5 are Metric standard threads, and those are what you might be able to find at Lowes or HD. They do have M12-1.5 screws here in the US, couldn't tell you about Canada. Amazon and Ebay both have them.??* ? HTH! Bill in OKC William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.) Aphorisms to live by: Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.? SEMPER GUMBY! Physics doesn't care about your schedule. The only reason I know anything is because I've done it wrong enough times to START to know better
On Monday, June 20, 2022, 10:31:18 PM CDT, Neil Morrison <neilsmorr@...> wrote:
You could try Busy Bee Tools, Princess Auto or Summit Tools. And obviously RONA, Lowe's and Home Depot. Someone may have parts or taps and dies? Neil On Mon., Jun. 20, 2022, 10:03 slynch, <seanlynch40@...> wrote:
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Re: Looking for a DB 200 part
Isn't that the same part that holds the headstock in the lathe body? Look on the far left end of your lathe, and you should have it. See the attached photos.? If not, it's an M12-1 metric thread. That's not a standard thread, but you can buy metric taps and dies for that thread on Ebay and/or Amazon.??was available a moment ago for $15.79 & free shipping, with 3 left in stock. This is the set I bought from Amazon, with Prime shipping:?? With either of those, you can make your own, even if you don't have a functional lathe.? ?I did look on ebay for the screw you need, but didn't see any.? HTH! Bill in OKC William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.) Aphorisms to live by: Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.? SEMPER GUMBY! Physics doesn't care about your schedule. The only reason I know anything is because I've done it wrong enough times to START to know better
On Monday, June 20, 2022, 09:13:17 AM CDT, slynch <seanlynch40@...> wrote:
Hi folks, just picked up a Unimat DB 200 in very good + shape. But, I need a part DB 501-8?? M12-1 Tension screw for the milling post. If anyone knows of a source, or an alternative, I would appreciate it. Cheers |
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Re: Looking for a DB 200 part
slynch
Thanks Mehmood, I'll look in Canada to see if I can locate one. Cheers SL On Mon, Jun 20, 2022 at 10:50 AM Mehmood via <mehmood.naqshbandi=[email protected]> wrote:
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Re: Looking for a DB 200 part
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýActually, thinking about it, you need the same bolt for the headstock casting to lock in the base. If you already have that, it's the same bolt.
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Re: Looking for a DB 200 part
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýThis one?
eBay item number: 115251100299 GBP 8.00 plus postage. Or an M12x1 die? https://www.rdgtools.co.uk/acatalog/12MM-X-1-SPLIT-DIE--CARBON--537fine.html (29 pence more, but you can make as many as you want!, except for the hex socket head, which is outside of my experience - I've only seen it done on Youtube.)
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Re: Unimat 3 and rust
WD-40 it self won't work well for long-term storage. Looks like you're pretty close to the water there, so I'd expect you have pretty high humidity most of the time. They do make a rust preventative, now, but it's not what I'd call cheap. Being a cheap bastrich, I've investigated a bunch of stuff for rust prevention. Chainsaw bar and chain lube works fairly well as a way oil, though it gets gummy after a while. It does prevent rust decently. For a while, at least. One of my near-future projects is refurbing my Lewis Shaper (AGAIN!) because that was all I could afford when I got the shaper. The bar and chain lube I used on it has gummed up the works, but the ways are not rusty, despite the high humidity here. It's only been this past year that I've been able to afford to buy proper way and spindle oils for my machines.? If you're going to be using the Unimat frequently, WD-40 will be OK. Not great, but OK. If not, a?coating of motor oil will work better for rust-proofing than WD-40.? Any sort of machine oil will work decently, too. Sewing machine oil is about 10wt SAE, or? about ISO 22. All my toolboxes have small cakes of camphor in them. That is one of the things the old machinists used, and it still works decently. It's fairly cheap up here in the North, don't know about down South where you live. Though I would expect Camphor trees to grow well there. :) There are probably a zillion studies now about which of the many corrosion-protective coatings are "best." All I know is what I've used and my experience is rather limited, I'm afraid. ;) So, as they say, Your Mileage?May Vary! For getting rust off of stuff, my absolute favorite is EvapoRust, 2nd favorite is electrolytic rust removal, 3rd is pretty much any form of phosphoric acid, and the first one I learned about, back when I was a teenager working for my uncle building racing go-karts, a spray-bottle of diluted muriatic acid (impure hydrochloric acid or swimming pool acid) and be careful never to spray upwind! Among other things.? All of them have advantages and disadvantages. EvapoRust is safe for wood, plastic, and dissimilar metals, but very expensive. You can let it dry on the parts, and as long as the dried coating isn't washed off, it will prevent further rust. ERR is cheap, but does eat paint, oil, and grease, (which is good!) as well as dissimilar metals, like Babbitt bearings, bronze/brass bushings (not so good!), etc. Not very good for wood, either. Needs dried and oiled quickly to prevent flash rusting. Phosphoric acid leaves the iron phosphate coating that needs oil in the pores to work really well to prevent further rust, and it changes the color of the metal, which isn't necessarily bad. ;) Parkerizing is one form, frequently used on firearms, for example. I like it! But it's not for everyone, either. It is cheaper than EvapoRust, and more expensive than ERR. Muriatic acid is fairly cheap up here, anyway. It is dangerous when undiluted, and needs to stored outside as even in a well sealed container, it still seems to promote rust on any iron objects stored near it. Probably means it wasn't as well-sealed as I thought, but the container didn't leak when held upside down for a few minutes... You must also rinse thoroughly, and neutralizing the acid with a baking soda solution and then rinsing some more is a great idea, which adds to the cost. Then you need to get the parts dry as quickly as possible, and oil them to prevent rusting again. My Unimat SL had rusted pretty badly before I got it. I replaced the way rods with hard-chromed linear bearing rods from Amazon, and they should not rust, but that won't work for your U3. Cleaning and re-applying the WD-40 should frequently will probably be all you need. Maybe! Haven't used it much, but a solution of citric acid works fairly well to remove rust, too. Much safer than muriatic acid, non-toxic, but still need to neutralize it, dry it, etc. Can use lemon juice, or buy it as a powder. I grew up in Southern California, and lemon trees were common there. Not like that here in Oklahoma, unfortunately. Cost of living is better here, and the folks are friendlier, as well, so balances out fairly well. :) Hope this of of some help, and not too repetitive of what you already know! Bill in OKC? William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.) Aphorisms to live by: Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.? SEMPER GUMBY! Physics doesn't care about your schedule. The only reason I know anything is because I've done it wrong enough times to START to know better
On Sunday, June 19, 2022, 08:11:56 AM CDT, <sawbona@...> wrote:
Hello: > JHM, I hope this helps you... Thanks for the heads up. The rust remover I use is a water based phosphor acid remover like Boeshield Rust Free. I have gone ahead with my experiment and it seems to work but only time will tell. Provided the parts are previously well degreased and then fully dunked in the rust remover, the iron phosphate coating seems to keep rust at bay. I think a thin layer of WD-40 applied with a clean rag will most probably (in a small part) be absorbed by the iron phospate and add moisture displacement to the protection. Unfortunately I cannot find Boeshield T-9 locally. Best, JHM |
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Re: Unimat 3 - solving some issues
What do you have in the way of shop equipment other than your Unimat? What do you have in the way of materials to work with?? If you have a hacksaw, some files and a caliper you can make stuff you need out of bits and pieces of scrap metal. ??First book listed in that link is the Workshop Practice Series book #18, Basic Benchwork. This is a guide to the techniques used by the guys who invented machine tools to make stuff before they had machine tools. I like it well enough that I have both digital and dead-tree copies.? A few years back, I got an Atlas TH42 lathe from Craigslist, and bought it a QCTP from Amazon.com. It came with a blank T-nut to mount itself to the lathe. At the time, I didn't have any of my machines either accessible or working, and the lantern toolpost that came with the lathe was missing pieces. I cut the T-nut to fit with a hacksaw and files, and made a rocker from a bit of 1/2" key stock also using files. I couldn't even get to a vise, so all the work was done holding the pieces in my hands while cutting and filing the pieces to fit. The T-nut took about 4 hours, but it fits about as perfectly as anything I've ever made in a lifetime of making stuff. The rocker is a little less perfect, but it still worked. ;)? These days, it's traditional to use High Speed Steel (HSS) lathe tools, but back in the olden days, they used hand-forged high-carbon tool steel. You can still do that, or buy tool blanks or even pre-ground tooling in HSS. Tool steel is available in many forms, including old broken tool. :) A block of steel for an anvil, a hammer, and pliers, propane torch and a small bucket or can of used motor oil would let you forge your own tooling. For aluminum or plastic, you can even use mild steel, which isn't hardenable. Unimats are a bit "weak" for cutting metals with carbide tooling, but it can be done, and you can get carbide tooling that will fit on the Unimat, but you mostly won't need it. HSS or high-carbon tool steel will work fine for most materials. Spring steel is a high carbon steel, and could be used as a cutting tool. Likewise broken hacksaw blades. K&S Precision Metals sells music wire (spring steel) in 3' lengths, and is available in most good hardware and hobby stores in the US. I don't have a good feel for where you're located, but my area's ACE hardware stores carry it. Amazon has a bunch of HSS and other steels, when and if your wallet ever recovers. OTH, you could make do with salvaged or scavenged materials, too.? I've been collecting tools for more than 50 years, so I have multiple hacksaw frames with different blades, lots of files, etc, but I started with a scrounged hammer and coathanger wire. My brother and I had G.I. Joes with forged swords, spears, and arrowheads, among other things, when I was 10 years old. Sharpened on a bit of broken concrete... Hi! My name is Bill, and I'm a Toolohaulic! Bill in OKC? William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.) Aphorisms to live by: Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.? SEMPER GUMBY! Physics doesn't care about your schedule. The only reason I know anything is because I've done it wrong enough times to START to know better
On Saturday, June 18, 2022, 08:28:44 AM CDT, sawbona@... <sawbona@...> wrote:
Hello: > ... have a lathe now. Yes !? 8^D > ... make your own hand wheels ... I have been thinking about that quite a bit. >? ... can also get digital linear travel scales that will read in metric and imperial. Yes. I like that idea, but my wallet is still complaining about my Unimat spending spree. And I still have to get myself some decent tooling. Thanks for your input. Best, JHM |
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Re: Unimat 3 - solving some issues
Hello:
> ... fitted re-settable handwheels to my U3 ... Yes, I've seen them on the web while searching for a solution to this. There was a listing on the German ebay for €79+€10 shiping,? no idea of the date. These days they go for ~ US$80+shipping on ebay. These are nice but (imo) a bit too pricey for molded plastic and non-engraced scales. I have yet to finish refurbishing my Unimat milling table: I find that the two handwheels are also a bit small for me to use comfortably but even though they are also 35mm, they do have more heft to them. Maybe I should get a pair of readily available 63mm handwheels for the table and graft these on to the Uni. Food for thought ... Thanks for your input and the link. JHM |
Bill in OKC too
OldToolmaker