Re: Building an Encloser Box

#56953

There are a lot of cast iron sewing machine bases that are not nearly as sturdy but easy to find (and scaled appropriately)

John

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On Sat, Oct 9, 2021 at 8:35 AM OldToolmaker via <old_toolmaker=[email protected]> wrote:

I have several pictures that were sent to me a few years back by a group member of a riser base with integral enclosure to mount the Unimat lathe. It was made from a cast iron wood lathe base and was set up with both horizontal lathe and vertical column. It have been unable to find a base like that on EBay or anywhere else.
Does anyone on this group remember that setup and the source of a cast iron base??
Thanks, Dick
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Building an Encloser Box

#56952

I have several pictures that were sent to me a few years back by a group member of a riser base with integral enclosure to mount the Unimat lathe. It was made from a cast iron wood lathe base and was set up with both horizontal lathe and vertical column. It have been unable to find a base like that on EBay or anywhere else.
Does anyone on this group remember that setup and the source of a cast iron base??
Thanks, Dick
--
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?SMALL TURRET TOOL POST PLANS?
?LARGE TURRET TOOL POST PLANS
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Re: Sewing Machine Motor w/foot pedal?

#56951

John,
I was able to get behind the pulley with a small pair of die bars to get the pulley off after I heated it.
Dick

Re: Sewing Machine Motor w/foot pedal?

#56950

I also heated the pulley, but with a very small flame from air-acetylene torch.? I needed a gear puller(just bought from Ebay) to do the job.

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On Wed, Oct 6, 2021 at 7:39 PM OldToolmaker via <old_toolmaker=[email protected]> wrote:

Once I got into the project of removing the timing belt pulley I found out the pulley was not black plastic but what appeared to be some type of sintered metal that was Locktited onto the motor armature shaft. I used a propane torch and concentrated the heat on the pulley only. It didn’t take long and the pulley easily slid off the shaft. The shaft itself was barely warm. I cleaned the shaft of any Locktite residue and I am ready to move on with the next step in my project.
Dick

Re: Sewing Machine Motor w/foot pedal?

#56949

Once I got into the project of removing the timing belt pulley I found out the pulley was not black plastic but what appeared to be some type of sintered metal that was Locktited onto the motor armature shaft. I used a propane torch and concentrated the heat on the pulley only. It didn’t take long and the pulley easily slid off the shaft. The shaft itself was barely warm. I cleaned the shaft of any Locktite residue and I am ready to move on with the next step in my project.
Dick

Re: Sewing Machine Motor w/foot pedal?

#56948

On Wed, Sep 29, 2021 at 05:15 PM, Keith S. Angus wrote:

The motor I used for my SL had a steel toothed belt pulley fitted, probably with Loctite. We set it up in a press to push the shaft out, and it took a bit of force. I suspect if we'd applied a bit of heat it would have been much easier. If the pulley is plastic it should be easy to remove. I woud hack off most of it with a saw until there is not much left on the shaft, then set it spinning and attack it with wood turning tools. Then again, a bit of heat could make a big difference.

The professional (not proper) approach would be to take chunks off it with an angle grinder, almost down to the shaft, on opposite faces, then whack it with a hammer. If it's plastic a big coarse file will do the job.

I examined my motors closer and found my job removing the toothed pulley will be much easier than I first thought. The motor shaft has a flat on one side and a groove all the way around. The pulley is retained with an “E” clip. All I need to do is remove the clip and plastic pulley. Then I can machine and mount a belt pulley of my own design with a dog point set screw bearing on the existing motor flat. I will use the 3 tapped holes already provided in the motor end plate for mounting. No need to disassemble the motor at all. It doesn’t get any easier than this.

Dick

Re: Sewing Machine Motor w/foot pedal?

#56947

The motor I used for my SL had a steel toothed belt pulley fitted, probably with Loctite. We set it up in a press to push the shaft out, and it took a bit of force. I suspect if we'd applied a bit of heat it would have been much easier. If the pulley is plastic it should be easy to remove. I woud hack off most of it with a saw until there is not much left on the shaft, then set it spinning and attack it with wood turning tools. Then again, a bit of heat could make a big difference.

The professional (not proper) approach would be to take chunks off it with an angle grinder, almost down to the shaft, on opposite faces, then whack it with a hammer. If it's plastic a big coarse file will do the job.

Re: Sewing Machine Motor w/foot pedal?

#56946

Keith,
The motors I purchased have toothed pulleys molded onto the motor shaft. I suppose I could set the armature up and turn the plastic pulley off so I can mount a standard Unimat pulley or more likely one of my own making.
I am now curious about what others have done.
Dick

Re: Sewing Machine Motor w/foot pedal?

#56945

On Tue, Sep 28, 2021 at 02:56 AM, Carl wrote:

Don't forget the Harbor Freight belt!

Doug supplies sets of two or three belts, depending on whether you have the low speed pulley or not, for DB/SL and U3, all made to fit. I have been using them for a few years now with no signs of wear. They seem a bit tight at first, but I think they ease off once they warm up. They have plenty of grip. Doug has one set he has been using for nine years at least, and mine have been used for many hours. I got two sets on the grounds that, by the time I need a new set, he may not be around to supply them. Now it looks like the first set might outlast me too.

I know you can use cheap O rings instead, and buy them by the dozen, but the last time I tried O rings they lasted about five minutes, and regardless of price I don't want the drive to fail halfway through a job. I'd rather pay a little more (maybe) and get something I can rely on.

Re: Sewing Machine Motor w/foot pedal?

#56944

开云体育

Hi Gang:

Don't forget the Harbor Freight belt!

Carl.

On 9/27/2021 3:13 PM, OldToolmaker via groups.io wrote:

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Keith,
I did a search on EBay for Unimat belts?Doug Feistamel and it did not return anything useful. Do you by chance know the Seller’s Web address?
Dick

Re: Sewing Machine Motor w/foot pedal?

#56943

Thank you.

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On Monday, September 27, 2021, 1:02 AM, Keith S. Angus <keithsangus@...> wrote:

Modern polyurethane belts give loads of grip (get a set from Doug Feistamel), so you don't need toothed belts.The desire for toothed belts comes from one of the older books where the author goes to great lengths to make his own toothed pulleys. The complication and resulting noisy drive are just not worth it.

Yes, it is still a good idea to keep the stepped pulleys. Using the pulleys to reduce the speed range gives you higher torque at lower speeds, which is usually a good thing - theoretically ideal. It also allows much finer control at lower speeds. I found I rarely used the speed controller. Changing speeds with the belts was all I needed for most jobs especially with the extra low speed pulley. On my Unimat 3, which only has four speeds on the belts, I may use the speed controller more, but I may also make some more pulleys for more flexibility. I think it is possible to build a back gear into the large pulley, but it will not be simple.

I suggest that when you change the motor, you do not change anything else until you have got used to the lathe again. Then see what might help.

--
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?SMALL TURRET TOOL POST PLANS?
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Re: Sewing Machine Motor w/foot pedal?

#56942

try

Carl Lantz

Show quoted text

On 9/27/2021 2:13 PM, OldToolmaker via groups.io wrote:

*Keith,
*I did a search on EBay for Unimat belts Doug Feistamel and it did not
return anything useful. Do you by chance know the Seller’s Web address?
Dick

Re: Sewing Machine Motor w/foot pedal?

#56941

Keith,
I did a search on EBay for Unimat belts?Doug Feistamel and it did not return anything useful. Do you by chance know the Seller’s Web address?
Dick

Re: Sewing Machine Motor w/foot pedal?

#56940

Keith,
Thanks for the advice on the drive belts. I have both standard and low speed pulley assemblies. I also have a 10 foot roll of 3/16” clear polyurethane belting from McMaster-Carr. I plan on making a simple fixture to heat and splice my own belts as described in Home Shop Machinist last month.
Dick

Re: Sewing Machine Motor w/foot pedal?

#56939

Modern polyurethane belts give loads of grip (get a set from Doug Feistamel), so you don't need toothed belts.The desire for toothed belts comes from one of the older books where the author goes to great lengths to make his own toothed pulleys. The complication and resulting noisy drive are just not worth it.

Yes, it is still a good idea to keep the stepped pulleys. Using the pulleys to reduce the speed range gives you higher torque at lower speeds, which is usually a good thing - theoretically ideal. It also allows much finer control at lower speeds. I found I rarely used the speed controller. Changing speeds with the belts was all I needed for most jobs especially with the extra low speed pulley. On my Unimat 3, which only has four speeds on the belts, I may use the speed controller more, but I may also make some more pulleys for more flexibility. I think it is possible to build a back gear into the large pulley, but it will not be simple.

I suggest that when you change the motor, you do not change anything else until you have got used to the lathe again. Then see what might help.

Re: Sewing Machine Motor w/foot pedal?

#56938

Jeff,
I noticed your White Buna N belt.
In thinking about the belt, I wonder how well a toothed belt and corresponding pulley would work? Is there a good reason why stepped pulleys would still be needed if speed is now controlled electronically? Just wondering as I don’t have experience with these motors and controllers yet. Still waiting for my components to arrive.
Dick
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?SMALL TURRET TOOL POST PLANS?
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Re: Sewing Machine Motor w/foot pedal?

#56937

I'm sure the data is online. The only thing I can tell you is you need a resistor added to match your motor if they're still the same. They are a bridge rectifier.

Neil

Re: Sewing Machine Motor w/foot pedal?

#56936

On Sat, Sep 25, 2021 at 02:43 PM, Jkle379184 wrote:

Yes, not a good idea to reverse unless completely stopped.

There is a way to protect the speed controller from reversing too quickly. You feed the output through a bridge rectifier. Connect the speed controller to the AC inputs, and use the +/- outputs as usual. If you then add a reversing switch after the rectifier, it will protect the speed controller from the over-voltage that occurs when you have the motor going forwards and the switch in reverse. I don't know how to rate the rectifier - I assume at least double the supply voltage, and a peak current a bit higher than the motor rating. It should not be hard to find one with a far higher rating than needed these days. The higher voltages and currents should only happen occasionally, so the rectifier shouldn't suffer much. If you find reversing is a problem then you should modify your revering switch so it is not too easy to use? - slow yourself down a bit!

Re: I saw this Unimat at Maker Space today

Steven

#56935

It's not.upgraded to CNC. The owner has just added a power feed using a stepper motor.? But that won't really work with the longer rails.??

Regards

Steven