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It also occurred to me that you said you were using a left handed tool. If you are turning with the tool moving towards the headstock (which is the more usual situation) then you should use a right

Strictly speaking brass needs no, or a slight negative rake on the tool. This removes the tendency for the tool to dig in. I guess that most of these general purpose packs are ground with rake angles

Also for a finishing cut ramp up the speed and take a fine, very slow cut. Try to be as smooth as possible with the hand wheels. A dab of oil might help too.

This is one of my test pieces straight from the lathe, it was mostly cut with a standard straight cut tool as shown in the second picture. Sent from my Huawei tablet

For brass a round nose bit will give a smooth surface, with a pointed tool it's like you are cutting a thread. Sent from my Huawei tablet

Hello there chaps, After the kind advice to try out a cannon and the location of the Edenstaal plans on the files part of this group, I thought I’d test out the lathe again after a period of

I dont suppose you have the plans for the miniature steam engine do you? The one by Leslie Proper?

Thank you, John!

The IO group is called Brass Collectors.

Dick, they may have gone over to IO like most of the longtime yahoo lists. alf,

I got two of the old egg beater hand drills. Never thought of repurposing the antiques in this fashion. Dick

Alf, I used to be a member of a yahoo group called “Brass Locos”. I seem to have lost my connection as I don’t see any mail coming in any more. Is that group still active? Dick

I thought the original Unimat steam engine project could be a good all-round learning and/or re-skilling project, so I found some info on Youtube: https://youtu.be/M6S7_5a6qwY (

"Graving and graver tools, handheld" That led me to this: Back in the late '30s, 40s, and 50s in MODEL RAILROADER MAGAZINE there was a prolific article author of scratchbuilt O Scale steam locos and

If you are like me then you will have bags of ‘N’ gauge wheelsets. I’ve used my DB/SL to reprofile some of these to finescale. I’m guessing you are a member of the 2mm Association so check out

Hi Reg, Thank you for your comment - I was drawn to the unimat because it's the perfect size for 2mm/ft scale which is what I normally model in, and I got the unimat in a good deal from a chap in the

Thank you Edward, I've looked at the instructions for the Edestaal cannon: /g/Unimat/files/Edelstaal%20Parrot%20Rifle%20Cannon%20kit I've got lots of questions (how to measure the

One of the early jobs I did with my Unimat was to make a new capped stack for an On2 model locomotive. ?It involved turning, as well as drilling and tapping on the lathe. ?I would consider adding a

Hi William, I have no specific recommendations for you but here are my two cents worth and that may not be worth much but I will try. I learn the best by a combination of reading and actual hands on.

Go through the book "Projects for the Unimat" also in the files section and build some of the projects from that....possibly brass mallet, nice Tommy bars using hex stock brass for the handles and