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Plan for chuck plate please
Hello SL community. I am looking for a detailed and dimensioned plan for the jaw support, the chuck plate # 1001/01 and # 1002/01.. Take care of yourself and your loved ones, Lionel
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-- Lio, France - Unimat SL x 3 |
Re: SL U-90 Motor Wiring
Aron
On the u90 motor there is a screw at the base of the case where you wire the Earth/ground too,(it¡¯s located on the flat top side) ?it¡¯s also where the grounds for the brushes attach, the screw is held through with a nut so you can easily just loop the ground and tighten the nut.
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Re: SL U-90 Motor Wiring
Hello again,
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Many many thanks Pete & Bernard!
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Sorry I didn't get back to you earlier, I got way busier than I had expected last week and didn't get round to doing everything that I wanted to.
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I've wired most up now, but I'm very unsure where that I'd best attach the ground wires to the case? Ideally somewhere, where they don't get into the way of anything.
I've also never soldered anything up to something with no "direct mating area" if you know what I mean (I've done wires, obviously, and PCB boards but never a bare piece of metal).
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I'll try to find a good spot and will let you know how it went!
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Cheers! :) |
Re: What do you guys make?
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From: [email protected] <[email protected]> on behalf of Keith S. Angus via Groups.Io <ksangus@...>
Sent: Saturday, March 28, 2020 10:44:14 AM To: Tamra <tamrabrogdon@...>; [email protected] <[email protected]> Subject: Re: [Unimat] What do you guys make? ?
On Fri, Mar 27, 2020 at 03:24 AM, Tamra wrote:
oh, rolled threads!?In the bottling industry they use ROPP caps - the metal screw tops you find on things like whiskey bottles, ROPP stands for Roll On Pilfer Proof. Basically a plain cap is slipped over the neck of the bottle and then a roller head revolves around it swaging the thin metal to the thread form of the glass bottle. The roller continues down and swages in the end of the cap, which is what gives you the little ring of metal that remains after you open the bottle. If you watch carefully, towards the end of this video, you can see it happening: In the same way you can roll threads onto a thinnish wall tube by placing it over a steel master and running a roller down it, Should be easy once you've made the master! |
Re: What do you guys make?
On Fri, Mar 27, 2020 at 03:24 AM, Tamra wrote:
oh, rolled threads!?In the bottling industry they use ROPP caps - the metal screw tops you find on things like whiskey bottles, ROPP stands for Roll On Pilfer Proof. Basically a plain cap is slipped over the neck of the bottle and then a roller head revolves around it swaging the thin metal to the thread form of the glass bottle. The roller continues down and swages in the end of the cap, which is what gives you the little ring of metal that remains after you open the bottle. If you watch carefully, towards the end of this video, you can see it happening: In the same way you can roll threads onto a thinnish wall tube by placing it over a steel master and running a roller down it, Should be easy once you've made the master! |
Re: unknown attachment (for me)
Richard Pender
On Saturday, 28 March 2020, 13:58:07 GMT, Dave W <fahrwud@...> wrote:
The catalogue photo looks like the vertical section holds the glass and the horizontal section is an adjustable backstop. So would the whole thing mount on the carriage and glass-drilling done by feeding towards the chuck??
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Re: unknown attachment (for me)
Some earlier accessories were discontinued, but in general as time went on more new accessories were introduced. -----Original Message-----
?Sometimes I think that the earlier Unimats had more options that they stopped making for the later Unimats. I have both a .9mm and a 52 TPI threading masters and guides, still NOS in the factory boxes and a 24 count gear for the index table. I suspect the 48t replaced the 24t. But at nearly 65, I find the 24 is easier to use. The .9mm was common for Japanese metrics, the JIS before they standardized to the world standard in 1969. The 52 TPI, I am not sure what it was used for. All I could find is a Harley Davidson push rod adjuster and I was told 52 TPI was also used on some optics.
?Jeff |
Re: What do you guys make?
This wanna-be-an-apprentice would never attempt to make a tap or a die... oh, rolled threads!? I would love to know how those are made.? I'm a very simple person, the first time I used a tap & die and the two parts worked, I thought I had struck figurative "gold" in the world of modeling... how sweet.? Each time I look at that item, that feeling of one tiny accomplishment washes over me... silly, and useless stuff.? You can buy tiny brass screws and washers by the hundreds right, but I can make screw thread any length that I want... priceless to a scale modeler.
Pat, I would love to see a photo of that oil can...? Currently I'm redoing my 1/12th scale candlestick class to practice turning to specific diameters and lengths.? Making a pair of matching candlesticks is humbling, so I'm learning to measure, and machine accurately.? I'm working on 3 and then will select the best 2 and hopefully 2 candlesticks will match.? I've stopped to re-measure and check my drawing (again).?? Matt, you can make anything you want on the unimat, just a smaller envelope.? If you need a real challenge, make a miniature bridgeport mill!? They have one at the Craftsman Museum... It is amazing! Tamra |
Re: unknown attachment (for me)
?Sometimes I think that the earlier Unimats had more options that they stopped making for the later Unimats. I have both a .9mm and a 52 TPI threading masters and guides, still NOS in the factory boxes and a 24 count gear for the index table. I suspect the 48t replaced the 24t. But at nearly 65, I find the 24 is easier to use. The .9mm was common for Japanese metrics, the JIS before they standardized to the world standard in 1969. The 52 TPI, I am not sure what it was used for. All I could find is a Harley Davidson push rod adjuster and I was told 52 TPI was also used on some optics.
?Jeff |
Re: What do you guys make?
30 years ago, working as an instrument control technician at a nuclear power plant, our shop had a SL, I used it for making brass bushings, nylon spacers, insulators, antenna parts, for equipment we had and could no longer get parts for, but we could not replace due to regulations. It got lost in the shop upgrade, I never found it. So I bought one, well actually 3 before I retired. One cast iron, one Zamec, and one aluminum. The aluminum and cast iron(mill) get used the most. If you want to see what a little lathe can do, visit www.craftsmanshipmuseum.com.
Pat |
Re: What do you guys make?
So Tamra, when the power plant was cleaning up one of the machine shops, I came across a small 2 oz pump oil can, with a thumb pump on the top of the handle. Since I am a bit of a tool junkie I grabbed it. To give you an idea of how small I could only get two fingertips in the handle. This was maybe two inches tall and about an inch in diameter. Screw top with rolled threads, internal pump mechanism, ridged spout. When I got to asking around one of the oldest machinists said that was what they had to make in order to graduate out of their apprenticeship program. I gave it to my older brother to include in his antique tool collection. It boggled my mind. It would be the right size for making on a Unimat, but the machinist did it on a 12¡± lathe, they had to make the dies for the positive and negative rolled thread.
Pat |
Re: unknown attachment (for me)
Aron
Reminds me of the cutting glass with a pair of scissors in a bowl of water, I¡¯ve not personally had to cut glass on regular occasions however the times I¡¯ve had to drill a hole in a 8mm thick pane of glass for a fish tank I just used a blunt drill bit, a ton of water for lubrications and slow pressure and just let it burro through, probably not the best way to do it and I knew the risks of doing it that way but the result worked out fine where the tank is still standing 10 years later with the same hole still working as intended.
i don¡¯t think that¡¯s any help to you but just an experience I¡¯ve had drilling glass. I think if I was to try it again I would probably use a dremel with a diamond head bit to bore it out |
Re: unknown attachment (for me)
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýHello Tamra: It
just takes different techniques. One is
to cut glass you need carbide or diamond bits, high
speed tool steel drills are not hard enough.
Second you need controlled feed, you don't want to "dig in"
leading to cracked glass. This is best for small <3mm
holes. Two is to abrade the glass. Spin a copper tube with lapping compound, turn slowly and take your time. This can work for larger holes. Again controlled feed is a must. Three is a trick stunt, that I have only heard about. Use a glass scriber to put a nick in a glass sheet. Then strike the glass where you want the center of the hole. The shock wave might make the glass split in a circle starting at the nick. I had a stack of scraps to try this on and the best I did was some semi circles in a busted up pieces of glass. I learned of this at a glass shop where they had a sample on the wall. The glass man tried in front of me, he did get a full circle, but still busted the sheet up. Good
luck, Carl. On
3/26/2020 4:17 PM, Tamra wrote: I would like to know how to drill in glass... with a lathe.? Is this with or without controlled fire (via torch) on the bench? |
Re: unknown attachment (for me)
I would like to know how to drill in glass... with a lathe.? Is this with or without controlled fire (via torch) on the bench?
Did I mention I took a glass blowing class last year in Michigan?? I don't have as much wind in my lungs as I thought, it is hard to do glass blowing, but I did manage to make a wonky shot glass and a paperweight..so I would love to know how to drill in glass tubes. Nice catalog attachment... Tamra |
Re: unknown attachment (for me)
Wow, that's a great find. I have not seen that attachment before.
We will have to get Cary's comments.
Martin P.
-----Original Message-----
From: childro via Groups.Io <childro@...> To: [email protected] Sent: Thu, Mar 26, 2020 1:54 pm Subject: [Unimat] unknown attachment (for me) Hello group This is the first time I post a comment.
I was looking at a catalog of edelstaal maatschappinj N. V. (Amsterdam) and noticed an attachment that I had never seen before.
This accessory is identified as Nr. 1050 drilling atachment.
Has anyone ever seen it? or does anyone have it?
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I put a copy of this catalog in the files section
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here the link:
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unknown attachment (for me)
Hello group This is the first time I post a comment.
I was looking at a catalog of edelstaal maatschappinj N. V. (Amsterdam) and noticed an attachment that I had never seen before.
This accessory is identified as Nr. 1050 drilling atachment.
Has anyone ever seen it? or does anyone have it?
?
I put a copy of this catalog in the files section
?
here the link:
?
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