Here is a link that has been around. Not sure if these are still available.

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For what it's worth, I opted away from this option because I use my Unimat 3 as a mill as well as lathe, and the extension out the back will not clear the mill mounting bar.

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I also question the accuracy of the tire gauges and the limited reading length. If you only use your Unimat as a lathe then 1 inch of measuring range could be sufficient. To capture the full 1.75 inch of cross-slide travel (keeping the full gib length engaged vs overshooting a bit and squeezing in 2 inches of travel), then there is an elevated challenge of fitting a 2 inch indicator.

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So, questions to consider:

1) How do you use your Unimat (lathe only or mill)? To determine needed measuring range.

2) Level of accuracy?

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From here we move down one of several rabbit holes (i.e. challenges with mounting; long extensions of gauges, and off the front if wanting to clear the mill mounting bar; DRO; etc.). I'm right in the middle of this adventure myself.

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If you have not seen this, Paul Budzik's video on adding direct readout to the Unimat is informative. The use of a 1 inch dial indicator with a second cross-slide saddle seems very effective for lathe-only operations (and for milling if you are willing to lose measurement across the full travel distance).

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Hope this helps,

Timothy Jump

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Where can I get a small compact depth DRO to fit the Unimat?

I have seen them on EBay but can’t find them now.

Dick

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Very nice workmanship John!

This definitely shows what can be done on our little Unimats.

Dick

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I do have a train (z scale) hanging from a ceiling of a Non finished 1/12th scale roombox for a toy store.? I don't remember if Kept the train in the box though.? I should probably look at that.

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I didn't make the box, I bought it from a miniature auction on line - but at least I do own a train!? Perhaps I should start working on toys...

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Tamra

I have finishes for miniature wicker furniture with Watco in the range of 2007,? and finishes with Waterlox since 2015... Watco does not have as much resin in its finish that acts as a natural filler of pores of wood; subsequently it ages differently.? Both finishes in my opinion can be easily repaired if someone 50 years from now understands what the maker did.? The 1/12th scale miniature wicker has stained vertical cloth covered wires and cherry seats...and I dated some of my seats so I know when the wood was finished.? My earliest scratch built wicker was with Watco... but once I started wood turning about 2014.... 2016 is when I likely bonded with a lathe, DH got me a sample of Waterlox at the Woodworking show in Indy.??

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I thought Watco was pretty fool proof as a finish, but I really like original Waterlox; I think we are going to buy the sealer for his wood turnings.? I used waterlox on my miniature hat stands and lace bobbins - the finish has replaced Watco as my fav.? Lots of people can't use a wipe on / wipe off finish; the finish can't be rushed - let it dry between coats for either Watco or Waterlox; if you rush and it isn't dry, and you have a lot of moisture in the air, it can be messy... but heat will help.? I have a toaster oven that is dedicated heat source if I am rushed; I usually don't do anything that is rushed, except gifts made with the grandsons... seems like we are always behind when we make presents.? It is pretty easily fixed if you get too much on your piece, you simply sand it off and start again.

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Tamra

A few years ago I made a walking cane using Diamond Willow and after the cane was seasoned two years I gave it several coats of Watco oil. Today the cane is alive in different hues of red and cream. Absolutely brilliant colors and all natural.

Dick

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I have been doing some miniature wood carvings today and my recently purchased YoctoSun Magnifier has turned out to be a great tool for me. It is easy to wear just like a pair of glasses and the magnifier can be flipped and out of the way with ease as required.

Dick

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Dick, the 1" boots would be in scale for 1/12th or my world.? What are you making?

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You might find it a fun exercise to model them from Sculpey clay.? Miniaturists commonly make soles and a foot form from sculpey, and bake them in an oven you don't use for food.? ?We commonly make them out of leather... Ladies fingertips on gloves are commonly used for shoes... I save my husbands worn out wallet for boots - I have want to make a pair for boots someday.? I like your solution to carving them.? I love oil finishes; I switched about 10 years ago to Waterlox original sealer... the original formula may not be available in CA.? Waterlox has a shelf life; Watco does not in my experience.? You put your Waterlox in smaller container for immediate use, and seal the waterlox that is in the original container with bloxygen to extend shelf life.??

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I think the Railroad world does a wonderful job on aging and realistic finishes and I have a couple of books in my library for these purposes.

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I bought an empty Pint can just for this purpose, just recently as I need a new can of Waterlox.? I last bought my Waterlox in 2017 and used it when dear son refinished my Mom's floors in her home, so at least I know when we bought this can.? Now I write on my cans with marker when they are opened.? I love Waterlox, and I think I have converted my husband for his life size wood turnings to use it too.

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Tamra

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I have a scale available to fit to my U3 - DROs make a big difference. Must fit it soon. I wish the cheap scales included an option to read D/2, for diameter, but there is nothing sufficiently small and anything with D/2 is expensive too.

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In my mates workshop he fitted DROs to all his machines in the 1970s. They were expensive but he saw them as the future of machining. So far as I know all the DROs were still working about five or ten years ago when he started slimming down operations and getting rid of his various lathes and mills. If he was setting up now it would all be NC, but that is not new technology these days. Maybe sintered metal 3D would be the technology for an adventurous company.

A while back I installed a Digital Readout on my Unimat linear Z travel. After some use I can report that it is extremely helpful to be able to set zero at any point along the travel. It makes it real handy to use. I have no plans to install a DRO on the cross slide even though it would be handy.

Dick

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Just Google 24v DC motor. That worked for me.

Dick

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I will admit to trying run-of-the-mill N scale about 25 years ago. I haven’t touched it since - frustration level was high! I like one line in the link: “It is definitely the scale for the man who likes problems.“ These days I’m a clunky 3-rail O Gauge guy.?
DW

Hello, Peter!

For me, it is the challenge of producing an item in miniature. It requires good eyes and steady hands. Lately I have been hand carving tiny work boots ?in basswood. They are ?one inch long with laces and stitching. It requires a lot of patience. I finish these with several coats of Watco oil.

They look like leather.

Dick

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That 2mm stuff is great. No wonder folks are looking at magnifying glasses though!

I wonder what it is that makes things in miniature so appealing to humans? The Unimats themselves being an example!

Carlo

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A 200 W power supply will give you 8.3 A, which is more than enough for a 150 W motor.

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Not sure where you are in the world but on UK Ebay there is item 235951751455 - from Germany. It is 240 W. It looks like that is a standard size.

Ciao

Which power supply do you suggest for 6812 24v 150 watt?

how many Ampers & watt is the optimum?

Tks for yours suggestions

Carlo Cardinale

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