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Re: What are these?
?Carl, you may be correct.
Perhaps a little more background might help us. My step dad first took me to where he worked in 1955. It was the tool room for a large plant. I was not allowed to wander about and stood at the large open doorway and looked in. All a 12 year old boy saw were lots of very large and black machines.? The owner of the plant was a German immigrate coming here in the early 30's. I do remember my step dad telling my mother that most of the machines in the plant were German made, most likely before WWII. He also said that everything was made "in house". Perhaps because parts for these machines weren't? available. I am sure they made gears. Perhaps this was the gauge he used to measure the width of various gears before they were made. This seems plausible. There are still two other mysteries here. What could the tiny gauge be used for? The two gauges with a 40 degree pitch don't seem standard. I know none of this has much to do with unimats. Just a puzzle I tried to solve for a long time. Larry ? |
Re: What are these?
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýHi Larry: I think it is
a thickness gage, the difference from one notch to the next is
about 0.6 mm. It might have been used for sorting sheet metal??
The notches are not deep enough to check round stock, except
across the end?? Carl. On 7/6/2024 9:28 AM, Lawrence Miller
via groups.io wrote:
Carl, |
Re: DB/SL Belt Sizes?
For those who do not want to muck up their soldering iron:
-227 small drive -237 large drive if you want 3/16" wire just get -327 and -337 but honestly I think they are too tight and will trash your bearings. My lathe came with a single o-ring that would work on one of the motor pulleys and the matching spindle pulley. This was: -241 no idler. The 341 o-ring mentioned above is the same size just 3/16" wire diameter instead of 1/8" I find thew 1/8" wire o-rings are great and have crashed the lathe without them slipping. I tried 3/16" wire andit seemed to not fit in the groove well. |
Re: What are these?
Carl,
Upon closer inspection, thy do seem to be hand made. I can see the bare metal between the "teeth" The ones with points, there are two of them, the angle appears to be 40 degrees. Neither comes to a sharp point. One shows more wear than the other. Reading the gauge from left to right: Number 1 6.25 mm Number 2? 5.70 mm Number 3? 5.10 mm Number 4? 4.50 mm Number 5? 3.85 mm There is much smaller gauge which probably does not show up well on the photo I submitted. I has only 4 "teeth" and no numbers. It too seems to be hand made. For me, it is very difficult to measure. Thanks Carl, Larry |
Re: What are these?
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýHello Larry: Can you measure each gap (1-5)? and tell us the sizes? Thanks, Carl. On 7/5/2024 8:39 PM, Lawrence Miller
via groups.io wrote:
That makes sense. These belonged to my step father. Before I was in high school, he was a machinist.? He worked in the machine shop at a local mill. He spent over 40 years there later becoming the foreman . |
Re: What are these?
That makes sense. These belonged to my step father. Before I was in high school, he was a machinist.? He worked in the machine shop at a local mill. He spent over 40 years there later becoming the foreman .
My mother told me that when he retired he either gave or sold all of his tools. The only thing left was a long tool box. After he passed away, my mother gave me that tool box. The only things in it were two very large and long screwdrivers, a few hand made chisels and a few hand made punches. Carefully packed in a small box were the items I posted. He must have valued them. Through the years I have shown these to many and no one can say for sure what they were used for. Thanks for the reply. Larry |
Re: Unimat 3 Vertical Milling Attachment; Pinion
I just got a 12mm pinion blank, but to my surprise it does not fit into the Unimat 3 Vertical Milling Attachment. I measured the opening in the milling attachment and it comes in at 11.8mm. So now I'm trying to determine if the actual pinion for the Unimat 3 is something other than 12mm OD. If someone could measure the opening in their Unimat 3 Vertical Milling Attachment and verify if it is bored to accept 12mm, or if it is less than this, it would be a great help.
Thank you, Timothy Jump |
Re: What are these?
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýI am just guessing here, but they possibly could be shop-made Acme or square thread gauges. ? Jerry F. ? From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Lawrence Miller via groups.io
Sent: Friday, July 05, 2024 6:33 AM To: Carl; [email protected] Subject: Re: [Unimat] What are these? ? Can anyone identify these? There are 4 of them, the larger one with "teeth" is numbered 1-5. |
Re: What are these?
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýHi: They could be sorting gages, each step is a different size for matching graded parts. The other option is the could be used as mandrels between centers for certain parts. Carl. On 7/4/2024 7:45 PM, Brad Barton via
groups.io wrote:
|
Re: What are these?
I strongly suspect these are a form of "go - no go" plug gauges.? I suspect the various diameter features are a series of slightly different diameters. Used for inspecting parts.? The knurled handles just facilitate handling them. I have a different style of a "go - no go" gauge that you can buy commercially but have not ever seen this style.? Maybe they were commercially produced gauges.? Or perhaps made custom in some company.? A lot of places have custom made their own inspection tooling.? I wonder if the application might be automotive. Charles E. "Chuck" Kinzer
On Thursday, July 4, 2024 at 04:45:33 PM PDT, Brad Barton via groups.io <xbartx@...> wrote:
These came along with my lathe, It came with a lot tooling that looks like they were for a bigger machine and these might not been used with the Unimat. If I were guess, I would guess gauges of some sort. |
Re: Unimat 3 Vertical Milling Attachment; Pinion
Sorry, I was thinking of my old SL and didn't notice it was for the U3. Maybe more accurate dimensions will be required for that. Even so, a lot of it could be improvised according to what you want to do. Somewhere in the depths of my garage I have a U3 style milling column which will need a complete rebuild. I'll see what I learn from that.
|
Re: Edelstall cutting tool system
When hand grinding HSS tool bits keep a small container of water or water soluble coolant to dip the warm tool bit into. A HSS tool bit should not be allowed to get overheated. HSS ?has red hardness, but I am a stickler for not heating my tool bits to that point. I don¡¯t want to see ?any burn discoloration. Just my personal opinion. I think it shows poor workmanship.
Others may have differing opinions of course. Dick -- http://www.homemadetools.net/ ?SMALL TURRET TOOL POST PLANS? ?LARGE TURRET TOOL POST PLANS ?MINI- ?SMALL QC TOOL POST PLANS? ?QUICK CHANGE LATHE TURRET ?MINI LATHE COMPOUND PIVOT MODIFICATION |
Re: Edelstall cutting tool system
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýIt was made for a 5 inch lathe, it fits a 1/2 inch collet. On 6/25/24 05:13, John Entwistle via
groups.io wrote:
i have one of those. how are you supposed to mount them? |
Re: Unimat 3 Vertical Milling Attachment; Pinion
If you don't worry about making a replica of the original Unimat one, and their construction did vary, you can do it all without dimensions apart from knowing that the main shaft is 12mm diameter, same as the OD of the gear. Also the versions I have used did not have the circlip groove. Some had the gear teeth cut directly on the shaft and others looked like a gear had been fitted. There's no reason why your]s shouldn't be different so long as it does what you want.
Take a bit of 12 mm diameter steel and turn down enough of one end to poke through the gear and some way further. Offer this into the hole in the headstock and see how it looks. Trim off the end of the shaft until the gear engages nicely with the rack on the quill. I suspect you might not need anything sticking through, but just take a look to make sure. Fix the gear on the shaft - I would use Loctite or an equivalent to get a solid fixing. Grub screws will not be good enough. Then trim off the shaft to a sensible length, with about 30 mm protruding above the headstock. Face and chamfer this end. Drill a 6 mm hole at an angle of about 15¡ã and fit a bit of 6? mm steel bar about 100 mm long - fix it with Loctite. All fits should be close, but not? press fit, unless you can make them a really tight fit, in which case you won't need any Loctite. Drill and fit a 20 mm plastic ball on the end. Job done. Dimensions could vary according to what feels comfortable for you. At some stage consider what surface finish you want. I would use chemi-blacking. Just do it before the plastic ball goes on.kee |