Re: Unimat 3 Vertical Milling Attachment; Pinion
Conversely, does anyone have a Unimat 3 vertical mill attachment that can provide measurements of the pinion?
-T. Jump
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Re: Thread Pattern and follower
The 30 refers to number of threads per inch which is Imperial.
Dick
--
http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/?OFF-SET-tailstock-center-65965#post105972
?SMALL TURRET TOOL POST PLANS?
?LARGE TURRET TOOL POST PLANS
?MINI-LATHE CARRIAGE LOCK PLANS
?SMALL QC TOOL POST PLANS?
?QUICK CHANGE LATHE TURRET
?MINI LATHE COMPOUND PIVOT MODIFICATION
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Re: Uploaded Lathe Operations US Army Correspondence Course Program 1988
It is very well indeed to have that resource available to new members as well as for experienced members of this group. We all benefit!
Dick
--
http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/?OFF-SET-tailstock-center-65965#post105972
?SMALL TURRET TOOL POST PLANS?
?LARGE TURRET TOOL POST PLANS
?MINI-LATHE CARRIAGE LOCK PLANS
?SMALL QC TOOL POST PLANS?
?QUICK CHANGE LATHE TURRET
?MINI LATHE COMPOUND PIVOT MODIFICATION
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Unimat 3 Vertical Milling Attachment; Pinion
Hi All,
I'm in need of the pinion for the vertical milling attachment for a Unimat 3 (Part# A3Y 100 070). I'll take a full lever assembly if found.
-T. Jump
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Re: UNIMAT 3 Watchmaker precision package
You're welcome, Ta,ra. Just one thing that is pretty obvious but that I address anyway - better be safe than sorry: the attachment to the bed here is for the Unimat 3. If you would use a flip over tool, it should have an attachment for the Unimat SL bed. Not being familiar with the SL (or DB for that matter) I have no advice to share, except for mentioning the possibility of perhaps adapting an old disused cross slide, making sure that it provides the right height for the flip over tool post to be used.??
Op 28-06-2024 04:29 CEST schreef Tamra <tamrabrogdon@...>:
?
?
Thanks Herman, I am interested because I think a flip tool rest would be a beautiful thing for the small things that I make... I did not know that this tool rest existed for a unimat; so I am very interested in this topic.
The photos are very helpful.? I will look at the photos of the eBay auction and your pictures to compare.
Tamra
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Re: Bending mild steel strip
Thanks everyone for the replies. I¡¯m in the UK, so you were probably typing away while I was asleep !
Yes, I have a pretty sturdy Stanley bench vice that will be the primary ¡®tool¡¯ here.
I think (on reflection, and having ¡®slept on it¡¯) it may be better to revise the design to avoid the very acute bend. The three legs will have strips linking each of them (to stop them splaying), I was trying to save on the material required by having them ¡®inside¡¯ the imaginary circle formed by the legs, I think it will be far easier to buy some more strips and bend the legs the other way at a much kinder angle.
So a bit of a case of ¡®discretion being the better part of valour¡¯. ?As always, many thanks for the replies. I¡¯m always learning from this forum.
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Re: Bending mild steel strip
1/8" thick might be beyond the range of HF benders, although it is pretty narrow.? (I got one of their benders years ago, and it was limited to 16 Ga, I think.)
-Dave
On Thursday, June 27, 2024 at 11:35:58 AM PDT, Andrei <calciu1@...> wrote:
If you are in USA, Harbor Freight sells some inexpensive tools to bend iron and steel. Check them out and maybe one of them will help you.?
Hi Peter:
?
Assumption, all the same size? And you have a vise? Are the bends in the same direction? Or opposite?
Even a propane torch can help. On the 30 deg bend, a larger radius would help.?
Cut a board as a template for the bends. Drill any holes before? bending.?
?
Carl.?
On 06/27/2024 1:18 PM EDT Peter Brooks <peter@...> wrote:
?
?
Apologies as this isn¡¯t Unimat (or even lathe) related - I¡¯d appreciate some advice from those who will know.
I have to make three identical ¡®legs¡¯ to support a metal shallow bowl water feature. Each leg will have two bends, and the material is 3/4¡± x 1/8¡± mild steel (18mm x 3mm approx for the metrically minded).
One bend is an easy angle, and I think I can do it in a metalworking vice. Envisaging what will happen I will clamp some pieces of wood around the free part as support so that the bend happens where it is meant to.
The other bend is trickier, as it is an acute 30 degrees¡ Is this overly ambitious? ?I realise that the metal will fracture if - literally - pushed too far.
I don¡¯t have any equipment to heat the metal, so that is out.
A couple of ideas spring to mind as to how I might attempt it - a) clamping it with upright pieces of wood or metal in the vice (to give the clearance), or b) around a pin on a board (akin to bending steamed wood for furniture). In both cases proper supporting
pieces of wood would be required to keep the bend in the right place.
Advice and suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
|
Re: Machining 1018 Solid Steel Bar
Hi Gang:
Don't forget you can tap the stock M12x1 and skip the? chuck.
Or work between centers.
I did some toolpost grinding on lathes with three jaw chucks. I used a soft mallet to make it run true.?
Carl.?
On 06/27/2024 10:10 PM EDT Tamra <tamrabrogdon@...> wrote:
?
?
Ron, thank you for the attachment, for SB How to run a lathe, as this keeps me from trying to find my copy.?
I know where my machinist handbook is though.?
I will review these items that everyone has suggested.
The lathe is an EMCO 7x10 lathe, and it isn't that heavy, so I think I will likely be able to get it to a shelf over the weekend.? I don't think this is a Emco 5 Compact lathe, but it is that same color of yellow.? I do have a 4 jaw chuck...on the EMCO that is much larger then my Unimat...
My piece of steel is 1-7/8" diameter and likely 3" at the present time, but the plug doesn't need a lot of depth, and I will let dear husband determine what amount is parted off, and may call my local welder and ask how much he wants left.? The lid is slightly domed, so I was thinking of using air dry clay to remove my guess of the slope; it is easy to visualize putting a straight edge on the inside of the lid, but having something that I can look at while machining the diameter seems like a good way for me to remove the guess work.??
The part will remain 1-7/8 diameter so it doesn't go through the lid once pressure is applied, but the hole that needs to be plugged measures 1.50" with calipers, so I am hopeful to turn to 1.48" and see if it fits.? I want it tight, but can be removed for the welder's ease.?
Tamra
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Re: UNIMAT 3 Watchmaker precision package
Thanks Herman, I am interested because I think a flip tool rest would be a beautiful thing for the small things that I make... I did not know that this tool rest existed for a unimat; so I am very interested in this topic.
The photos are very helpful.? I will look at the photos of the eBay auction and your pictures to compare.
Tamra
|
Re: Bending mild steel strip
I have presently bending multiple pieces of brass rod that is .072" in diameter and my best advice is lots of material to practice.... seriously....? it looks sooooo simple, but I cannot duplicate that bend that was on the original, and I made a wooden jig, and I don't even have to anneal as I can bend this in a simple vice.
I would also anneal with a propane torch and use a ball peen hammer and anvil.??
To help my brass rod, bend at precisely 2" I cut the underside with a jewelers saw.? Not cutting through, but just cutting a tiny bit so the rod has some instruction from me.
I am also using a long bar jaw pliers, similar to CS Osborne Webbing canvas stretching plier...? my pliers are likely antique, but they are flat between the jaws, but this shape, so I can keep the brass straight.
If you want to form metals, we love watching the reality TV Show, Forged in Fire...? they are making things that "will kill" in most instances, but it great to watch for learning purposes.
Tamra
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Re: Machining 1018 Solid Steel Bar
Ron, thank you for the attachment, for SB How to run a lathe, as this keeps me from trying to find my copy.?
I know where my machinist handbook is though.?
I will review these items that everyone has suggested.
The lathe is an EMCO 7x10 lathe, and it isn't that heavy, so I think I will likely be able to get it to a shelf over the weekend.? I don't think this is a Emco 5 Compact lathe, but it is that same color of yellow.? I do have a 4 jaw chuck...on the EMCO that is much larger then my Unimat...
My piece of steel is 1-7/8" diameter and likely 3" at the present time, but the plug doesn't need a lot of depth, and I will let dear husband determine what amount is parted off, and may call my local welder and ask how much he wants left.? The lid is slightly domed, so I was thinking of using air dry clay to remove my guess of the slope; it is easy to visualize putting a straight edge on the inside of the lid, but having something that I can look at while machining the diameter seems like a good way for me to remove the guess work.??
The part will remain 1-7/8 diameter so it doesn't go through the lid once pressure is applied, but the hole that needs to be plugged measures 1.50" with calipers, so I am hopeful to turn to 1.48" and see if it fits.? I want it tight, but can be removed for the welder's ease.?
Tamra
|
Re: Machining 1018 Solid Steel Bar
I took a class in machining, but I learned how to dial in a 4-jaw chuck from Little Machine Shop. I put a 5" 4-jaw my my 7x10 mini-lathe shortly after I got it. A bit too heavy, but very useful.?
Bill in OKC?
William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)
Aphorisms to live by: Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.? SEMPER GUMBY!
Expect in one hand, expectorate in the other. See which one gets full first.
On Thursday, June 27, 2024 at 12:07:31 PM CDT, Ron K via groups.io <ron.kellis@...> wrote:
Hi, two comments. Finish. Since you can grind HHS, just grind one to the specifications in the classic Southbend How To Run a Lathe A small tool will work fine. 4 jaw chuck. You may already know, but having two keys is a big help. I'm lucky. My Logan 4 jaw has 1/4" keyholes so I can use two screwdriver handles with 1/4" socket ends. I'm too new with the Unimat to know, but It may be possible to use a handled hex driver with a Robinson bit. Many YouTube tutorials, comes to mind.? I like to read when I can, here is a technique I use from The copy I printed out years ago is now oil paper LOL. Ron
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Re: Bending mild steel strip
Some caution about drilling holes before bending.? Due to how the metal stretches at bends, it can be a bit tricky to place the holes on a flat pattern, so they end up right after the bending.? Most sheet metal shops want to see a dimensioned drawing of the finished part and they figure out the subtleties.? So, if you can, you might be better off drilling holes after bending so you can be sure where the holes will be.
If this is causing too much grief, it is little more than a snack for a sheet metal shop with the equipment they usually have.? But you would have to pay something.? I know that these machining groups are "do it yourself" and "find a way" focused, which is great.? But sometimes for the occasional job outside the "work envelope" of our equipment, it can pay to farm it out.
Charles E. "Chuck" Kinzer
On Thursday, June 27, 2024 at 02:40:27 PM PDT, Bill in OKC too via groups.io <wmrmeyers@...> wrote:
This is the one I bought when I was remounting my wifes wheelchair lift in the new van:?
I'd managed to FUBAR a couple brackets, using the torch & vise. Bought that bender and cranked out all 4 of the new brackets in less than an hour. They have similar machines in Europe,? and there are several youtube videos about scratch-building a version of the bender.?
Bill in OKC?
William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)
Aphorisms to live by: Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.? SEMPER GUMBY!
Expect in one hand, expectorate in the other. See which one gets full first.
On Thursday, June 27, 2024 at 01:35:57 PM CDT, Andrei <calciu1@...> wrote:
If you are in USA, Harbor Freight sells some inexpensive tools to bend iron and steel. Check them out and maybe one of them will help you.?
Hi Peter:
?
Assumption, all the same size? And you have a vise? Are the bends in the same direction? Or opposite?
Even a propane torch can help. On the 30 deg bend, a larger radius would help.?
Cut a board as a template for the bends. Drill any holes before? bending.?
?
Carl.?
On 06/27/2024 1:18 PM EDT Peter Brooks <peter@...> wrote:
?
?
Apologies as this isn¡¯t Unimat (or even lathe) related - I¡¯d appreciate some advice from those who will know.
I have to make three identical ¡®legs¡¯ to support a metal shallow bowl water feature. Each leg will have two bends, and the material is 3/4¡± x 1/8¡± mild steel (18mm x 3mm approx for the metrically minded).
One bend is an easy angle, and I think I can do it in a metalworking vice. Envisaging what will happen I will clamp some pieces of wood around the free part as support so that the bend happens where it is meant to.
The other bend is trickier, as it is an acute 30 degrees¡ Is this overly ambitious? ?I realise that the metal will fracture if - literally - pushed too far.
I don¡¯t have any equipment to heat the metal, so that is out.
A couple of ideas spring to mind as to how I might attempt it - a) clamping it with upright pieces of wood or metal in the vice (to give the clearance), or b) around a pin on a board (akin to bending steamed wood for furniture). In both cases proper supporting
pieces of wood would be required to keep the bend in the right place.
Advice and suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
|
Re: Bending mild steel strip
This is the one I bought when I was remounting my wifes wheelchair lift in the new van:?
I'd managed to FUBAR a couple brackets, using the torch & vise. Bought that bender and cranked out all 4 of the new brackets in less than an hour. They have similar machines in Europe,? and there are several youtube videos about scratch-building a version of the bender.?
Bill in OKC?
William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)
Aphorisms to live by: Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.? SEMPER GUMBY!
Expect in one hand, expectorate in the other. See which one gets full first.
On Thursday, June 27, 2024 at 01:35:57 PM CDT, Andrei <calciu1@...> wrote:
If you are in USA, Harbor Freight sells some inexpensive tools to bend iron and steel. Check them out and maybe one of them will help you.?
Hi Peter:
?
Assumption, all the same size? And you have a vise? Are the bends in the same direction? Or opposite?
Even a propane torch can help. On the 30 deg bend, a larger radius would help.?
Cut a board as a template for the bends. Drill any holes before? bending.?
?
Carl.?
On 06/27/2024 1:18 PM EDT Peter Brooks <peter@...> wrote:
?
?
Apologies as this isn¡¯t Unimat (or even lathe) related - I¡¯d appreciate some advice from those who will know.
I have to make three identical ¡®legs¡¯ to support a metal shallow bowl water feature. Each leg will have two bends, and the material is 3/4¡± x 1/8¡± mild steel (18mm x 3mm approx for the metrically minded).
One bend is an easy angle, and I think I can do it in a metalworking vice. Envisaging what will happen I will clamp some pieces of wood around the free part as support so that the bend happens where it is meant to.
The other bend is trickier, as it is an acute 30 degrees¡ Is this overly ambitious? ?I realise that the metal will fracture if - literally - pushed too far.
I don¡¯t have any equipment to heat the metal, so that is out.
A couple of ideas spring to mind as to how I might attempt it - a) clamping it with upright pieces of wood or metal in the vice (to give the clearance), or b) around a pin on a board (akin to bending steamed wood for furniture). In both cases proper supporting
pieces of wood would be required to keep the bend in the right place.
Advice and suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
|
Re: Bending mild steel strip
Can also use a fire pit or BBQ grill, and a shop vac to increase airflow. Though a propane or butane torch with a good pair of pliers and a 2lb/1 KG ball peen or cross-peen hammer and an "anvil-shaped object" (ASO) are relatively inexpensive. There are also several designs of brake-drum forge available on the internet. They aren't unimats either, but sure can expand your options. Get some high-carbon tool steel and you could forge your own tooling. The Industrial Revolution was built with such tooling.?
Bill in OKC?
William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)
Aphorisms to live by: Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.? SEMPER GUMBY!
Expect in one hand, expectorate in the other. See which one gets full first.
On Thursday, June 27, 2024 at 01:31:28 PM CDT, Carl <carl.blum@...> wrote:
Hi Peter:
?
Assumption, all the same size? And you have a vise? Are the bends in the same direction? Or opposite?
Even a propane torch can help. On the 30 deg bend, a larger radius would help.?
Cut a board as a template for the bends. Drill any holes before? bending.?
?
Carl.?
On 06/27/2024 1:18 PM EDT Peter Brooks <peter@...> wrote:
?
?
Apologies as this isn¡¯t Unimat (or even lathe) related - I¡¯d appreciate some advice from those who will know.
I have to make three identical ¡®legs¡¯ to support a metal shallow bowl water feature. Each leg will have two bends, and the material is 3/4¡± x 1/8¡± mild steel (18mm x 3mm approx for the metrically minded).
One bend is an easy angle, and I think I can do it in a metalworking vice. Envisaging what will happen I will clamp some pieces of wood around the free part as support so that the bend happens where it is meant to.
The other bend is trickier, as it is an acute 30 degrees¡ Is this overly ambitious? ?I realise that the metal will fracture if - literally - pushed too far.
I don¡¯t have any equipment to heat the metal, so that is out.
A couple of ideas spring to mind as to how I might attempt it - a) clamping it with upright pieces of wood or metal in the vice (to give the clearance), or b) around a pin on a board (akin to bending steamed wood for furniture). In both cases proper supporting pieces of wood would be required to keep the bend in the right place.
Advice and suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
|
Re: Bending mild steel strip
If you need them bent in the same location, but opposite directions, use a jig - even if it's just made from scraps.? A little forward planning and careful drilling would let you bolt/screw the jig parts together, then just flip them around to make the bend in the opposite direction.
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Re: Bending mild steel strip
If you are in USA, Harbor Freight sells some inexpensive tools to bend iron and steel. Check them out and maybe one of them will help you.?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Hi Peter:
?
Assumption, all the same size? And you have a vise? Are the bends in the same direction? Or opposite?
Even a propane torch can help. On the 30 deg bend, a larger radius would help.?
Cut a board as a template for the bends. Drill any holes before? bending.?
?
Carl.?
On 06/27/2024 1:18 PM EDT Peter Brooks <peter@...> wrote:
?
?
Apologies as this isn¡¯t Unimat (or even lathe) related - I¡¯d appreciate some advice from those who will know.
I have to make three identical ¡®legs¡¯ to support a metal shallow bowl water feature. Each leg will have two bends, and the material is 3/4¡± x 1/8¡± mild steel (18mm x 3mm approx for the metrically minded).
One bend is an easy angle, and I think I can do it in a metalworking vice. Envisaging what will happen I will clamp some pieces of wood around the free part as support so that the bend happens where it is meant to.
The other bend is trickier, as it is an acute 30 degrees¡ Is this overly ambitious? ?I realise that the metal will fracture if - literally - pushed too far.
I don¡¯t have any equipment to heat the metal, so that is out.
A couple of ideas spring to mind as to how I might attempt it - a) clamping it with upright pieces of wood or metal in the vice (to give the clearance), or b) around a pin on a board (akin to bending steamed wood for furniture). In both cases proper supporting
pieces of wood would be required to keep the bend in the right place.
Advice and suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
|
Re: Bending mild steel strip
Hi Peter:
?
Assumption, all the same size? And you have a vise? Are the bends in the same direction? Or opposite?
Even a propane torch can help. On the 30 deg bend, a larger radius would help.?
Cut a board as a template for the bends. Drill any holes before? bending.?
?
Carl.?
On 06/27/2024 1:18 PM EDT Peter Brooks <peter@...> wrote:
?
?
Apologies as this isn¡¯t Unimat (or even lathe) related - I¡¯d appreciate some advice from those who will know.
I have to make three identical ¡®legs¡¯ to support a metal shallow bowl water feature. Each leg will have two bends, and the material is 3/4¡± x 1/8¡± mild steel (18mm x 3mm approx for the metrically minded).
One bend is an easy angle, and I think I can do it in a metalworking vice. Envisaging what will happen I will clamp some pieces of wood around the free part as support so that the bend happens where it is meant to.
The other bend is trickier, as it is an acute 30 degrees¡ Is this overly ambitious? ?I realise that the metal will fracture if - literally - pushed too far.
I don¡¯t have any equipment to heat the metal, so that is out.
A couple of ideas spring to mind as to how I might attempt it - a) clamping it with upright pieces of wood or metal in the vice (to give the clearance), or b) around a pin on a board (akin to bending steamed wood for furniture). In both cases proper supporting pieces of wood would be required to keep the bend in the right place.
Advice and suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
|
Re: Machining 1018 Solid Steel Bar
Tamra;
Some months ago I mounted a 1.5¡±galvanized pipe cap in my SL1000 to turn it down into cylindrical shape from its curved shape.
Using standard Unit Bits, I was able to accomplish the task with shallow cuts and patience.
If you attempt too aggressive a cut, the motor will slow and remind you that a Unimat is NOT a West Bend 6¡± lathe!
Best regards,
John Pratchios
|
Apologies as this isn¡¯t Unimat (or even lathe) related - I¡¯d appreciate some advice from those who will know.
I have to make three identical ¡®legs¡¯ to support a metal shallow bowl water feature. Each leg will have two bends, and the material is 3/4¡± x 1/8¡± mild steel (18mm x 3mm approx for the metrically minded).
One bend is an easy angle, and I think I can do it in a metalworking vice. Envisaging what will happen I will clamp some pieces of wood around the free part as support so that the bend happens where it is meant to.
The other bend is trickier, as it is an acute 30 degrees¡ Is this overly ambitious? ?I realise that the metal will fracture if - literally - pushed too far.
I don¡¯t have any equipment to heat the metal, so that is out.
A couple of ideas spring to mind as to how I might attempt it - a) clamping it with upright pieces of wood or metal in the vice (to give the clearance), or b) around a pin on a board (akin to bending steamed wood for furniture). In both cases proper supporting pieces of wood would be required to keep the bend in the right place.
Advice and suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
|
OldToolmaker
Herman de Leeuw
Carl
Tamra
Bill in OKC too