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Re: ER32 Collet on Unimat
Hi Dick.
I think I put photos in the files.
Carl.?
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Re: tooling website found
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Lots of interesting goodies including stuff for unimats.
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On Jun 15, 2024, at 4:38?AM, James Batchelor <njames.batchelor@...> wrote:
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Apply Google translator and all will be revealed. Shipping to UK would be expensive, Brexit.
James
Very interesting site some nice tools also a pity you can't read it in English but then I guess they would not ship to UK.
Phill?
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James Batchelor?
Dunfermline, Fife, UK.?
07805 207238
Re: tooling website found
Apply Google translator and all will be revealed. Shipping to UK would be expensive, Brexit.
James
Very interesting site some nice tools also a pity you can't read it in English but then I guess they would not ship to UK.
Phill?
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James Batchelor?
Dunfermline, Fife, UK.?
07805 207238
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Re: tooling website found
Very interesting site some nice tools also a pity you can't read it in English but then I guess they would not ship to UK.
Phill?
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Thanks Charles, I’ll try giving it a sharpen. It’s done a fair bit of work over the years.
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found this website the other day and thought I'd share
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Does anyone here on this group have any pictures of an ER32 collet mounted on a Unimat spindle?
The ER32 collet is rather large and I would like to see a complete setup.
Carl has said he uses his ?ER32 collets on his Unimat.
A picture of the spindle adapter is what I would like to see.
Thanks, Dick
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?SMALL TURRET TOOL POST PLANS?
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I very much prefer single flute countersinks.? And, for brass, just high speed steel, not carbide.
And having it sharp.? If not already sharp (and if from one those inexpensive sets, it might not be very sharp), I sharpen it.? Sometimes all it needs is a few swipes with a diamond hand hone.? They are very handy to touch up edges, and on lathe tool bits, too.? And a slow to moderate speed.
There are a lot of brass alloys of different hardnesses so you might not get quite the same results on every alloy.? (Same with aluminum, if not more so.)? Usually, problems are solved be making the edge sharper.
Charles E. "Chuck" Kinzer
On Thursday, June 13, 2024 at 11:59:26 AM PDT, Peter Brooks <peter@...> wrote:
I’ve got to countersink some brass for screws, and am finding it hard work as the countersink size gets larger.
I’m using a standard 5 flute HSS countersink in a drill press. Are there better options? ?Or any other advice?
Many thanks!
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I’ve got to countersink some brass for screws, and am finding it hard work as the countersink size gets larger.
I’m using a standard 5 flute HSS countersink in a drill press. Are there better options? ?Or any other advice?
Many thanks!
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My badon Zamac vs. aluminum, thanks for the correction. A machine technology instructor recently secured his to an out of caliber surface plate. I have mine on a sink cut-out, figure it will be fine for what I do. I'll secure it as soon as I get it clean.?
I have no doubt you are correct about designing a machine around what they could easily source.?
I worked on vintage sewing machines for a number of years. People came up with all kinds of crazy ideas for why the Japanese started to produce so many. Truth was in Japan there are many, many mom & pop outfits that could knock out the basic parts. Easy to switch from war production to commercial parts. The industry was highly regulated regarding what was under the hood. The castings were made for a huge tolerance range, so the sub component accuracy wasn't critical. Kept a lot of shops going supplying parts that all the manufacturers could use. The politics of that type of regulated production and market flooding as China is now doing is a whole different conversation.?
Ron
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You are not including the later machines cast in aluminium alloy, but anyway - in my experience most of the rigidity problems come from the carriage and cross slide, mainly if the bearings are not nipped up when taking a cut. The flexibility of the bars, both main and cross slide, probably contributes, but it's not so obvious. I don't think the cross slide bars contribute much due to their flexibility (compared to a nice big dovetail slide) as they are too short to move much. There it will be slack in the bearings. It is possible to nip them up, but who remembers to reach for the Allen key to do that? Well, I do, for one. The main 12 mm bars are more of a problem, and there have been schemes to use bigger bars, but it's not an easy thing to do. On the PC/Basic the bars are 20 mm diameter, which is much stiffer (about 4.6 times stiffer - a 15 mm? bar would be twice as stiff), but that was designed many years later when the constraints of post war Austria had disappeared. I'm still convinced the DB design was based on the availability of standard lengths of precision ground silver steel (drill rod), or something very similar. Any flexibility in the bed would be helped by bolting it down to a rigid base. Even a big chunk of wood would help.
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Hadn't know early machines were cast iron. Make much of a difference in rigidity?
Thanks,
Ron
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Re: Induction Unimat motor?
Hadn’t immediately noted that the motor in your post was 110 volts. The eBay photo also shows it has a U.S. electrical plug. ? Could it be that the same tariff regulations which caused watch manufacturers to complete their products locally in North America also caused Edelstahl (or whoever imported Unimats into the USA back then) to ‘finish’ them locally too? ? Also, regarding the history, pros and cons regarding induction motors, came accross an interesting presentation at ? Kind regards, Alan ? ?
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From: Tinkerer22 via groups.io <vpol1@...> Sent: Wednesday, June 12, 2024 7:03 AM To: Alan Ehrlich <alan.ehrlich@...>; [email protected]Subject: Re: [Unimat] Induction Unimat motor? ? It's on e-bay with more pictures?
I've seen other Unimat motors made in Holland.
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Re: Induction Unimat motor?
That machine looks very little used, or else very well cared for. Yes, it's an induction motor. 115 V 60 Hz, 2800 rpm. If it has one capacitor it's capacitor start, if two, then it's also capacitor run, which improves the performance.
I notice it has the proper Vee belts as I had on my first Unimat, and I have seen a few times since - as recently as a year ago - so they can last. Some folks have denied that such things ever existed, but I didn't imagine them, honest!
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Re: Induction Unimat motor?
It's on e-bay with more pictures?
I've seen other Unimat motors made in Holland.
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Re: Induction Unimat motor?
P.S. Sorry, wanted to say: “Cased and timed” locally in the UK, North America and Australia! ?
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From: [email protected] < [email protected]> On Behalf Of Alan Ehrlich Sent: Wednesday, June 12, 2024 6:42 AM To: [email protected]; vpol1@... Subject: Re: [Unimat] Induction Unimat motor? ? Very interesting: “MADE IN HOLLAND”. ? Did Emco have a subsidiary in the Netherlands? Or a ‘big’ Benelux importer who found a customs/import-duty advantage by adding the motors locally? There are historical examples of the latter elsewhere in other countries/industries (e.g. Swiss watch movements “Cased and timed” locally in the UK, North America and Canada... including significant numbers of Rolex, JLC, Longines, Cartier, etc. wristwatches). ? Some ‘precedent’ also can be seen in the example of Edelstahl’s role for North America. ? Could you please also show us a photo of the label that’s on the Unimat itself! ? Kind regards, Alan Geneva, Switzerland ? ? ? Some older Unimats feature the type of motor pictured below.
Is this an induction motor? It has a housing on the side that indicates presence of a capacitor, and no sign of brush access holes. It is also 125W, an improvement over typical 90W. Induction motors hold speed and torque under load much better than brushed universal ones.
Does anyone have any information or experience with it?
Thank you.
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Re: Induction Unimat motor?
Very interesting: “MADE IN HOLLAND”. ? Did Emco have a subsidiary in the Netherlands? Or a ‘big’ Benelux importer who found a customs/import-duty advantage by adding the motors locally? There are historical examples of the latter elsewhere in other countries/industries (e.g. Swiss watch movements “Cased and timed” locally in the UK, North America and Canada... including significant numbers of Rolex, JLC, Longines, Cartier, etc. wristwatches). ? Some ‘precedent’ also can be seen in the example of Edelstahl’s role for North America. ? Could you please also show us a photo of the label that’s on the Unimat itself! ? Kind regards, Alan Geneva, Switzerland ? ?
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From: [email protected] < [email protected]> On Behalf Of Tinkerer22 via groups.io Sent: Wednesday, June 12, 2024 2:15 AM To: [email protected]Subject: [Unimat] Induction Unimat motor? ? Some older Unimats feature the type of motor pictured below.
Is this an induction motor? It has a housing on the side that indicates presence of a capacitor, and no sign of brush access holes. It is also 125W, an improvement over typical 90W. Induction motors hold speed and torque under load much better than brushed universal ones.
Does anyone have any information or experience with it?
Thank you.
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Re: Uploaded Lathe Operations US Army Correspondence Course Program 1988
I suggest for anyone here wanting to learn how to run a lathe get your hands on a copy of “How to Run a Lathe” by South Bend. This is one of the best ways to get started as it covers all aspects of the subject.
Dick
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http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/?OFF-SET-tailstock-center-65965#post105972
?SMALL TURRET TOOL POST PLANS?
?LARGE TURRET TOOL POST PLANS
?MINI-LATHE CARRIAGE LOCK PLANS
?SMALL QC TOOL POST PLANS?
?QUICK CHANGE LATHE TURRET
?MINI LATHE COMPOUND PIVOT MODIFICATION
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Re: Edelstall cutting tool system
I bought some NOS 1/4” HSS tool blanks on ebay and hand grind them. I’m vey pleased with the results.
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On Jun 11, 2024, at 1:20?PM, pat goodyear <pgoodyear@...> wrote:
?I have the Edselstaal tooling system, as well as the 6 tool set that came with the Unimat. I have used the tooling system and find it easy to use and maintain, I touch up the bits on a diamond stone.? ? I also have a few of the spare inserts, one is colored red and another gold, one is HSS and the other maybe carbon.? I also have the set of indexed bits from harbor freight, those work moderately well but not at low speed, as they tend to dig in and chip.? ?I have purchased inserts from a tooling place in Arkansas as well.? ?I purchased the mini-lathe bit set (carbide) both the long and short sets from harbor freight, I had to take them to work and use the machinists tool grinder to regrind the bits as they were all set up wrong.? ?Harbor Freight also has a set of 4mm carbide bits they are tiny and about 1.5 inches long, they work well.? I purchased from HF a set of diamond cutting disks with 1/4" arbors and I use the Unimat with the disks to sharpen the bits.? ?I find it almost as precise as using the tool grinder at work, but since I am now retired it will have to do.? I made a tool holder for the Unimat that supports 5/16 th bits although I don't use it much.? ?Boring bars, I use the Micro 100 that are on ebay, they work well. but one has to feed them gently or they will snap.? I find hand grinding is easy and it doesn't need to be perfect to work.? ?
Pat in OSOS?
Re: Edelstall cutting tool system
Instructions for the Edelstaal tools have been posted in the Unimat
files.? They have the color codes for the cutters, and sharpening
instruction.? Bits are M-2 high speed steel, T-15 high speed steel, and
carbide.
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On 6/11/24 11:20, pat goodyear wrote: I have the Edselstaal tooling system, as well as the 6 tool set that
came with the Unimat. I have used the tooling system and find it easy
to use and maintain, I touch up the bits on a diamond stone.? ? I also
have a few of the spare inserts, one is colored red and another gold,
one is HSS and the other maybe carbon.? I also have the set of indexed
bits from harbor freight, those work moderately well but not at low
speed, as they tend to dig in and chip.? ?I have purchased inserts
from a tooling place in Arkansas as well.? ?I purchased the mini-lathe
bit set (carbide) both the long and short sets from harbor freight, I
had to take them to work and use the machinists tool grinder to
regrind the bits as they were all set up wrong.? ?Harbor Freight also
has a set of 4mm carbide bits they are tiny and about 1.5 inches long,
they work well.? I purchased from HF a set of diamond cutting disks
with 1/4" arbors and I use the Unimat with the disks to sharpen the
bits.? ?I find it almost as precise as using the tool grinder at work,
but since I am now retired it will have to do.? I made a tool holder
for the Unimat that supports 5/16 th bits although I don't use it
much.? ?Boring bars, I use the Micro 100 that are on ebay, they work
well. but one has to feed them gently or they will snap.? I find hand
grinding is easy and it doesn't need to be perfect to work.
Pat in OSOS
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Carl
John Entwistle
James Batchelor
URGRA
OldToolmaker