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I don¡¯t have any pictures. When I find some time I can try to post some.
Dick
--
http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/?OFF-SET-tailstock-center-65965#post105972
?SMALL TURRET TOOL POST PLANS?
?LARGE TURRET TOOL POST PLANS
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Last I looked, which has been a little while, you could get used Swiss-made ER collets on eBay for about $16-$20. If that price is close, you could pick one up in the specific size you need as needed, and not kill the budget. Much, anyway. ;)
Bill in OKC
William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)
Aphorisms to live by: Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.? SEMPER GUMBY!
Expect in one hand, expectorate in the other. See which one gets full first.
On Sunday, June 9, 2024 at 10:57:43 PM CDT, Dave Seiter <d.seiter@...> wrote:
Two years ago I got chinese ER40 chucks in a number of styles (R8, 40 taper, MT3, and one I'm forgetting at the moment), and the chucks are all within .0002-.0005 runout, but the collets I've tried all seem to have about .0015- .002 runout when installed, regardless of what I do to try and true them up.? I don't use them much, so I'm waiting for a local shop auction or sale of US made collets to see if they are any better.
-Dave
On Saturday, June 8, 2024 at 10:06:02 PM PDT, Keith S. Angus <keithsangus@...> wrote:
And of course the sort of runout you should expect is more like 0.0004"
If you can do the M12 thread and recess, then the 8¡ã taper shouldn't be too bad - might take a few goes to get it right. Then it's just the outer thread to take the nut. These can be odd sizes and pitches but so far I've found the right ones on Ebay. I haven't bought them, but I was considering setting up to make the holders on a bigger lathe, using screw cutting and finishing off with a die. As I've said before, if you make the holder of brass you'll give yourself the best chance of getting it right, and it shouldn't wear significantly with our sort of use. I find that collets work very nicely in brass holders, although I haven't made them for ERs.
|
Re: Edelstall cutting tool system
If you've ever ground a 1/2" or larger lathe tool, you'll know that lighter tooling has its advantages, but compared to 6mm stuff, I wouldn't think it would matter that much. I will try to avoid buying that stuff since I don't need to inflame my TES. That's Tool Envy Syndrome, in case you're not familiar with TES. I've got it bad!
Bill in OKC
William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)
Aphorisms to live by: Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.? SEMPER GUMBY!
Expect in one hand, expectorate in the other. See which one gets full first.
On Sunday, June 9, 2024 at 05:58:42 PM CDT, Charles Kinzer <ckinzer@...> wrote:
Interesting idea.? If the question is why didn't this idea take off, I don't know.? Perhaps because it adds more cost to buy the blank compared to plain blanks.? And perhaps not with much benefit.
Since you have to grind the tool bit some anyway, grinding a little side clearance is no big deal.
Also, that shape reduces the cross section the length of the blank and therefore reduces the stiffness.? With a square blank, the part not ground will be stiffer.
M2-HSS is the most common and affordable tool blank alloy and is what most people are buying even if they don't know it.
On those fancy cross section bits, I just don't see enough of a plus (very modest convenience) compared to minuses (cost and weaker cross section).
Charles E. "Chuck" Kinzer?
On Sunday, June 9, 2024 at 03:48:37 PM PDT, John Entwistle via groups.io <jentwistle3@...> wrote:
|
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jun 9, 2024, at 6:39?PM, Brad Barton via groups.io <xbartx@...> wrote:
?
One reason I couldn't find much information on these was that I misspelled Edelstaal.
Here is a closeup look at the inserts, they are preformed and not square.
Says that they come in M-2 HSS, T-15 HSS & Carbide
<dummyfile.0.part>
?
?
<dummyfile.1.part>
Re: Edelstall cutting tool system
Figures, I "open my mouth" with the keyboard, the internet slaps me in said "mouth!"?
Lot cheaper to buy the square HSS stock, but might be nice to have that material for special projects. :)
Bill in OKC
William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)
Aphorisms to live by: Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.? SEMPER GUMBY!
Expect in one hand, expectorate in the other. See which one gets full first.
On Sunday, June 9, 2024 at 05:48:35 PM CDT, John Entwistle via groups.io <jentwistle3@...> wrote:
|
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jun 9, 2024, at 6:39?PM, Brad Barton via groups.io <xbartx@...> wrote:
?
One reason I couldn't find much information on these was that I misspelled Edelstaal.
Here is a closeup look at the inserts, they are preformed and not square.
Says that they come in M-2 HSS, T-15 HSS & Carbide
<dummyfile.0.part>
?
?
<dummyfile.1.part>
Re: Edelstall cutting tool system
I don't think you're going to find those anymore, except maybe as New Old Stock (NOS) from an antique dealer or Unimat aficionado. If you have them, treasure them! If not, get stuff that's easier to find. HF has a set of 1/4" (6.35mm) carbide insert holder tools that can work on the Unimat DB & SL though your center height may not be perfect. IIRC they're spec'ed for 6mm tooling. These:??
Personally, I think? you'd be much better off with High Speed Steel (HSS) tooling, either 1/4" or 6mm, and learn to grind your own. Last I looked you could get 1/4" HSS tool blanks for under $2 each. Way prices are going, it could be more.??has an 8 tool set, pre-ground, for $48, but from $3 & up for several tools. And 6mm:?
Charles Kinzer gave good advice, too. You will need either a small bench grinder, or something to hold a grinding wheel or mounted stone on your Unimat. IF you do that, cover all the way bars and other precision parts with a rag to prevent excessive wear. A cup of cool water to dunk the HSS bits in to cool them as you grind. You should not wear gloves while doing this, the heat on your fingers keeps you from overheating the tools. With HSS that shouldn't really matter, but if you make tooling out of high carbon tool steel, if you let them get too hot it will ruin the edge. High carbon tool steel will take a sharper edge than HSS. If you can grind your own tooling, you can make it any shape you want. Model engineers will grind a profile to for the rim for a scale locomotive wheel, for example, that you'd have to pay some serious money for to buy pre-ground, and you might not be able to find it for any price. That's why learning to grind your own is recommended.?
Good luck, and have fun!
Bill in OKC
William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)
Aphorisms to live by: Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.? SEMPER GUMBY!
Expect in one hand, expectorate in the other. See which one gets full first.
On Sunday, June 9, 2024 at 05:39:14 PM CDT, Brad Barton via groups.io <xbartx@...> wrote:
One reason I couldn't find much information on these was that I misspelled Edelstaal.
Here is a closeup look at the inserts, they are preformed and not square.
Says that they come in M-2 HSS, T-15 HSS & Carbide
?
?
|
Dave, have you tried the Shars collets? They posted on their site a TIR of 0.0003 for the ER40 style.?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Two years ago I got chinese ER40 chucks in a number of styles (R8, 40 taper, MT3, and one I'm forgetting at the moment), and the chucks are all within .0002-.0005 runout, but the collets I've tried all seem to have about .0015-
.002 runout when installed, regardless of what I do to try and true them up.? I don't use them much, so I'm waiting for a local shop auction or sale of US made collets to see if they are any better.
-Dave
On Saturday, June 8, 2024 at 10:06:02 PM PDT, Keith S. Angus <keithsangus@...> wrote:
And of course the sort of runout you should expect is more like 0.0004"
If you can do the M12 thread and recess, then the 8¡ã taper shouldn't be too bad - might take a few goes to get it right. Then it's just the outer thread to take the nut. These can be odd sizes and pitches but so far I've found the right ones on Ebay. I haven't
bought them, but I was considering setting up to make the holders on a bigger lathe, using screw cutting and finishing off with a die. As I've said before, if you make the holder of brass you'll give yourself the best chance of getting it right, and it shouldn't
wear significantly with our sort of use. I find that collets work very nicely in brass holders, although I haven't made them for ERs.
|
Two years ago I got chinese ER40 chucks in a number of styles (R8, 40 taper, MT3, and one I'm forgetting at the moment), and the chucks are all within .0002-.0005 runout, but the collets I've tried all seem to have about .0015- .002 runout when installed, regardless of what I do to try and true them up.? I don't use them much, so I'm waiting for a local shop auction or sale of US made collets to see if they are any better.
-Dave
On Saturday, June 8, 2024 at 10:06:02 PM PDT, Keith S. Angus <keithsangus@...> wrote:
And of course the sort of runout you should expect is more like 0.0004"
If you can do the M12 thread and recess, then the 8¡ã taper shouldn't be too bad - might take a few goes to get it right. Then it's just the outer thread to take the nut. These can be odd sizes and pitches but so far I've found the right ones on Ebay. I haven't bought them, but I was considering setting up to make the holders on a bigger lathe, using screw cutting and finishing off with a die. As I've said before, if you make the holder of brass you'll give yourself the best chance of getting it right, and it shouldn't wear significantly with our sort of use. I find that collets work very nicely in brass holders, although I haven't made them for ERs.
|
Re: Edelstall cutting tool system
My father bought the boring bar portion of the system, and I still have it and about 3" worth of the consumable tool stock.? I haven't used it very much, but it's worked very well when I have.? I don't recall which tool stock I have, but it's not carbide (which I think is silly for a unimat anyway).? It works best in brass or aluminum, and with as little "stick-out" as possible.? (I did use it with leaded steel once in the 80s, and it worked great too) Since the bar is round, you have to ensure that angle of attack is correct for your use.? As I recall, the benefit of the formed tool stock is that you just have to grind one face, and the other angles appear as if by magic.??
As to why it didn't catch on; it's non-standard,? If they had made a version for larger lathes it might have (assuming it worked well on the larger lathes).? After all, a lot of people find grinding bits troublesome.??
-Dave
On Sunday, June 9, 2024 at 11:37:49 AM PDT, Brad Barton via groups.io <xbartx@...> wrote:
Shortly after acquiring my lathe I ?was called away from home for an extended length of time, finally after getting caught up on my chores I¡¯m able to spend some time with my new to me lathe.
Being an absolute beginner I did read the manual and watch some of the online videos that were suggested.
I ground my first cutting tool and was very happy with the results. It was probably the easiest shape to do. 10 degree on three sides, it was for brass stock.?
I was wondering if it was worth time learning to use and sharpen these bits? Looks to be a complete 13 piece lathe tool set. I wasn¡¯t able to find any replacement inserts online.
Did these not catch on?
-Brad
|
Re: Edelstall cutting tool system
i have these and use them in addition to straight up hss tools. these are not as rigid, i get more chatter and worse finish, at least on steel.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jun 9, 2024, at 6:58?PM, Charles Kinzer <ckinzer@...> wrote: ?
Interesting idea.? If the question is why didn't this idea take off, I don't know.? Perhaps because it adds more cost to buy the blank compared to plain blanks.? And perhaps not with much benefit.
Since you have to grind the tool bit some anyway, grinding a little side clearance is no big deal.
Also, that shape reduces the cross section the length of the blank and therefore reduces the stiffness.? With a square blank, the part not ground will be stiffer.
M2-HSS is the most common and affordable tool blank alloy and is what most people are buying even if they don't know it.
On those fancy cross section bits, I just don't see enough of a plus (very modest convenience) compared to minuses (cost and weaker cross section).
Charles E. "Chuck" Kinzer?
On Sunday, June 9, 2024 at 03:48:37 PM PDT, John Entwistle via groups.io <jentwistle3@...> wrote:
|
On Jun 9, 2024, at 6:39?PM, Brad Barton via groups.io <xbartx@...> wrote:
?
One reason I couldn't find much information on these was that I misspelled Edelstaal.
Here is a closeup look at the inserts, they are preformed and not square.
Says that they come in M-2 HSS, T-15 HSS & Carbide
<dummyfile.0.part>
?
?
<dummyfile.1.part>
<s-l400.jpg>
Re: Edelstall cutting tool system
Interesting idea.? If the question is why didn't this idea take off, I don't know.? Perhaps because it adds more cost to buy the blank compared to plain blanks.? And perhaps not with much benefit.
Since you have to grind the tool bit some anyway, grinding a little side clearance is no big deal.
Also, that shape reduces the cross section the length of the blank and therefore reduces the stiffness.? With a square blank, the part not ground will be stiffer.
M2-HSS is the most common and affordable tool blank alloy and is what most people are buying even if they don't know it.
On those fancy cross section bits, I just don't see enough of a plus (very modest convenience) compared to minuses (cost and weaker cross section).
Charles E. "Chuck" Kinzer?
On Sunday, June 9, 2024 at 03:48:37 PM PDT, John Entwistle via groups.io <jentwistle3@...> wrote:
|
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jun 9, 2024, at 6:39?PM, Brad Barton via groups.io <xbartx@...> wrote:
?
One reason I couldn't find much information on these was that I misspelled Edelstaal.
Here is a closeup look at the inserts, they are preformed and not square.
Says that they come in M-2 HSS, T-15 HSS & Carbide
<dummyfile.0.part>
?
?
<dummyfile.1.part>
Re: Edelstall cutting tool system
|
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jun 9, 2024, at 6:39?PM, Brad Barton via groups.io <xbartx@...> wrote:
?
One reason I couldn't find much information on these was that I misspelled Edelstaal.
Here is a closeup look at the inserts, they are preformed and not square.
Says that they come in M-2 HSS, T-15 HSS & Carbide
<dummyfile.0.part>
?
?
<dummyfile.1.part>
Re: Edelstall cutting tool system
One reason I couldn't find much information on these was that I misspelled Edelstaal.
Here is a closeup look at the inserts, they are preformed and not square.
Says that they come in M-2 HSS, T-15 HSS & Carbide
?
?
|
Re: Edelstall cutting tool system
My ISP marked your email as spam, and I had to restore it from the spam folder. On top of that, though possibly because of that, the photos you attached don't have high enough resolution for me to read the text or see the pictures clearly. Though it does make the tool bits look like maybe they're "H" shaped. If that's not the case, then you can get HSS blanks in a variety of sizes and shapes. The usual tooling for a Unimat is generally 6mm square stock. It says "easy sharpen" IIRC, so they might be smaller 3mm or 1/8" stock would be easier to sharpen even if it's not "H" shaped,? though it could be 4 or 5mm square or rectangular stock,? too. You might need to look at Ali Express or one of the European sellers for that size HSS tool bits. If you're in the US, Harbor Freight has some HSS lathe tooling that a few of the pieces are under 6mm IIRC.?
Don't have one out where I can lay hands on it, so can't measure it for you.?
And I'd think they didn't hang one long, as I'd never seen anything like them for the Unimat. Though that's not something to you should give much weight to. I've only seen a Unimat other than the ones I got about 2 years ago but one other time before. Not a lot of experience with them myself, though I do frequent eBay. ;)
HTH!
Bill in OKC
William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)
Aphorisms to live by: Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.? SEMPER GUMBY!
Expect in one hand, expectorate in the other. See which one gets full first.
On Sunday, June 9, 2024 at 01:37:47 PM CDT, Brad Barton via groups.io <xbartx@...> wrote:
Shortly after acquiring my lathe I ?was called away from home for an extended length of time, finally after getting caught up on my chores I¡¯m able to spend some time with my new to me lathe.
Being an absolute beginner I did read the manual and watch some of the online videos that were suggested.
I ground my first cutting tool and was very happy with the results. It was probably the easiest shape to do. 10 degree on three sides, it was for brass stock.?
I was wondering if it was worth time learning to use and sharpen these bits? Looks to be a complete 13 piece lathe tool set. I wasn¡¯t able to find any replacement inserts online.
Did these not catch on?
-Brad
|
Re: Edelstall cutting tool system
I think it is definitely worthwhile learning to grind your own tool bits.? And learning why some metals and other materials work better with different angles here and there (positive rake - negative rake - zero rake).? This knowledge also extends to any cutting tool such as fly cutters or even just twist drills (for example, why you might "dub" a twist drill).
And also, to learn what a chip breaker feature is.? Some people relish in being able to make long stringy chips.? They are dangerous (and sometimes a firing offense in real machine shops) because once they grab onto something, like a finger, they can wrap around the spinning chuck and work piece and pull you in instantly.? Some feel that a Unimat is too small to really worry about such things.? But it is still a risk to some degree.
I know it was, perhaps still is, common to have the first lessons in beginning machine shop classes to be about how to grind tool bits.? Nothing else you learn will work out with incorrect tool bits being used.
I'm not familiar with the particular items in the catalog pages you show.? But various holders are certainly used by many, especially for cutoff bits and boring bar holders.? Probably the most common tool bit holders are for "inserts".? These are small bits that are triangular, square, or diamond shaped that fit into a holder as an alternative to grinding regular tool blanks.? There is a dizzying selection of them which is a topic in and of itself.
However, I think for small hobby sized lathes, people will usually get better results by grinding regular HSS tool blanks than using inserts.
Hint:? for a lot of work, especially soft metal and plastics, a VERY sharp tool bit edge is important.? A sharper edge can be made by using a diamond hand hone.? It can also be used to touch up a slightly dulled bit still mounted in the lathe.
Charles E. "Chuck" Kinzer
On Sunday, June 9, 2024 at 11:37:49 AM PDT, Brad Barton via groups.io <xbartx@...> wrote:
Shortly after acquiring my lathe I ?was called away from home for an extended length of time, finally after getting caught up on my chores I¡¯m able to spend some time with my new to me lathe.
Being an absolute beginner I did read the manual and watch some of the online videos that were suggested.
I ground my first cutting tool and was very happy with the results. It was probably the easiest shape to do. 10 degree on three sides, it was for brass stock.?
I was wondering if it was worth time learning to use and sharpen these bits? Looks to be a complete 13 piece lathe tool set. I wasn¡¯t able to find any replacement inserts online.
Did these not catch on?
-Brad
|
Edelstall cutting tool system
Shortly after acquiring my lathe I ?was called away from home for an extended length of time, finally after getting caught up on my chores I¡¯m able to spend some time with my new to me lathe.
Being an absolute beginner I did read the manual and watch some of the online videos that were suggested.
I ground my first cutting tool and was very happy with the results. It was probably the easiest shape to do. 10 degree on three sides, it was for brass stock.?
I was wondering if it was worth time learning to use and sharpen these bits? Looks to be a complete 13 piece lathe tool set. I wasn¡¯t able to find any replacement inserts online.
Did these not catch on?
-Brad
|
Hi Gang:
When I made
my M12/ER-32 chuck I used a stone on the chuck to make it mount
true:
I really like
the chuck, it is great holding wood dowels.
Carl.
On 6/8/2024 6:37 PM, Bill in OKC too
via groups.io wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
If you can figure out which
side is high, try clamping it in a vise and applying a bit
of pressure. It may improve. It may get worse. It may not
change at all. In the second & third case, a bit of shim
material and clamping in the vise might improve the
situation. If you own an arbor or other type of press, you
could try that, too. I've got one of Harbor Freight's 20-ton
hydraulic presses, and a variety of vices. I mean vises! ;)
But any other vise that will clamp on it could work.? I've
also got a large cast iron drill press that could do a bit
of pressing...
YMMV, of course.
Bill in OKC
William R.
Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)
Aphorisms
to live by:
Good judgement comes from experience.
Experience comes from bad judgement.?
SEMPER GUMBY!
Improvise,
Adapt, and Overcome.
Physics
doesn't care about your schedule.
The
only reason I know anything is because I've done
it wrong enough times to START to know better.
Expect
in one hand, expectorate in the other. See
which one gets full first.
On Saturday, June 8, 2024 at 04:51:05 PM CDT, John
Entwistle via groups.io
<jentwistle3@...> wrote:
A while back we were
kicking around a thread on collet chucks. There was talk
of making your own, and there was talk of one on ebay UK.
One member here (sorry, I forget who) posted that he¡¯d
bought one and it had .004¡± run out.
Well, in a silly moment i bought one also, and mine is
twice as good ¡®cause it has .008¡± run out!!
So, I decided to go ahead and re-cut it on my unimat along
the lines of the ¡°make your own¡± discussion. What the
heck, I can usually get under .001¡± and this was already
threaded for the spindle and should be pretty
straightforward as long as i can get the taper right,
right?
So I turned it down with the idea of cutting off the
threaded portion and rethreading further ¡°up¡± the body,
then recutting the taper inside.
But when turning it down I received an interesting
surprise as shown in this photo:
It seems this chuck is not one piece, but rather an
adapter that has been pressed on the end of someone else¡¯s
chuck! No wonder there was so much run out!
Not that i know what to look for I can see the different
colors of the two parts:
in guess you could try to straighten this by wacking it
with a hammer, but I don¡¯t hate my spindle bearings that
much. It¡¯s not their fault I bought this!
Guess I¡¯m gonna try the ¡°make your own chuck from scratch
route.
Best Regards
John
|
And of course the sort of runout you should expect is more like 0.0004"
If you can do the M12 thread and recess, then the 8¡ã taper shouldn't be too bad - might take a few goes to get it right. Then it's just the outer thread to take the nut. These can be odd sizes and pitches but so far I've found the right ones on Ebay. I haven't bought them, but I was considering setting up to make the holders on a bigger lathe, using screw cutting and finishing off with a die. As I've said before, if you make the holder of brass you'll give yourself the best chance of getting it right, and it shouldn't wear significantly with our sort of use. I find that collets work very nicely in brass holders, although I haven't made them for ERs.
|
John, I have a complete set of 25?ER32 collets and recently purchased an ER32 collet closer nut. I intend to use this mounted on my Unimat DB200. This plus my Unimat chucks should cover most of my needs.
On Saturday, June 8, 2024, 4:51 PM, John Entwistle via groups.io <jentwistle3@...> wrote: A while back we were kicking around a thread on collet chucks. There was talk of making your own, and there was talk of one on ebay UK.
One member here (sorry, I forget who) posted that he¡¯d bought one and it had .004¡± run out.
Well, in a silly moment i bought one also, and mine is twice as good ¡®cause it has .008¡± run out!!
So, I decided to go ahead and re-cut it on my unimat along the lines of the ¡°make your own¡± discussion. What the heck, I can usually get under .001¡± and this was already threaded for the spindle and should be pretty straightforward as long as i can get the taper right, right?
So I turned it down with the idea of cutting off the threaded portion and rethreading further ¡°up¡± the body, then recutting the taper inside.
But when turning it down I received an interesting surprise as shown in this photo:
It seems this chuck is not one piece, but rather an adapter that has been pressed on the end of someone else¡¯s chuck! No wonder there was so much run out!
Not that i know what to look for I can see the different colors of the two parts:
in guess you could try to straighten this by wacking it with a hammer, but I don¡¯t hate my spindle bearings that much. It¡¯s not their fault I bought this!
Guess I¡¯m gonna try the ¡°make your own chuck from scratch route.
Best Regards
John
--
http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/?OFF-SET-tailstock-center-65965#post105972
?SMALL TURRET TOOL POST PLANS?
?LARGE TURRET TOOL POST PLANS
?MINI-LATHE CARRIAGE LOCK PLANS
?SMALL QC TOOL POST PLANS?
?QUICK CHANGE LATHE TURRET
?MINI LATHE COMPOUND PIVOT MODIFICATION
|
If you can figure out which side is high, try clamping it in a vise and applying a bit of pressure. It may improve. It may get worse. It may not change at all. In the second & third case, a bit of shim material and clamping in the vise might improve the situation. If you own an arbor or other type of press, you could try that, too. I've got one of Harbor Freight's 20-ton hydraulic presses, and a variety of vices. I mean vises! ;) But any other vise that will clamp on it could work.? I've also got a large cast iron drill press that could do a bit of pressing...
YMMV, of course.
Bill in OKC
William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)
Aphorisms to live by: Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.? SEMPER GUMBY!
Expect in one hand, expectorate in the other. See which one gets full first.
On Saturday, June 8, 2024 at 04:51:05 PM CDT, John Entwistle via groups.io <jentwistle3@...> wrote:
A while back we were kicking around a thread on collet chucks. There was talk of making your own, and there was talk of one on ebay UK.
One member here (sorry, I forget who) posted that he¡¯d bought one and it had .004¡± run out.
Well, in a silly moment i bought one also, and mine is twice as good ¡®cause it has .008¡± run out!!
So, I decided to go ahead and re-cut it on my unimat along the lines of the ¡°make your own¡± discussion. What the heck, I can usually get under .001¡± and this was already threaded for the spindle and should be pretty straightforward as long as i can get the taper right, right?
So I turned it down with the idea of cutting off the threaded portion and rethreading further ¡°up¡± the body, then recutting the taper inside.
But when turning it down I received an interesting surprise as shown in this photo:
It seems this chuck is not one piece, but rather an adapter that has been pressed on the end of someone else¡¯s chuck! No wonder there was so much run out!
Not that i know what to look for I can see the different colors of the two parts:
in guess you could try to straighten this by wacking it with a hammer, but I don¡¯t hate my spindle bearings that much. It¡¯s not their fault I bought this!
Guess I¡¯m gonna try the ¡°make your own chuck from scratch route.
Best Regards
John
|
A while back we were kicking around a thread on collet chucks. There was talk of making your own, and there was talk of one on ebay UK.
One member here (sorry, I forget who) posted that he¡¯d bought one and it had .004¡± run out.
Well, in a silly moment i bought one also, and mine is twice as good ¡®cause it has .008¡± run out!!
So, I decided to go ahead and re-cut it on my unimat along the lines of the ¡°make your own¡± discussion. What the heck, I can usually get under .001¡± and this was already threaded for the spindle and should be pretty straightforward as long as i can get the taper right, right?
So I turned it down with the idea of cutting off the threaded portion and rethreading further ¡°up¡± the body, then recutting the taper inside.
But when turning it down I received an interesting surprise as shown in this photo:
It seems this chuck is not one piece, but rather an adapter that has been pressed on the end of someone else¡¯s chuck! No wonder there was so much run out!
Not that i know what to look for I can see the different colors of the two parts:
in guess you could try to straighten this by wacking it with a hammer, but I don¡¯t hate my spindle bearings that much. It¡¯s not their fault I bought this!
Guess I¡¯m gonna try the ¡°make your own chuck from scratch route.
Best Regards
John
|
OldToolmaker
Bill in OKC too
John Entwistle
Carl
