Re: Spindle Bearing Lubrication
I think they are pretty standard bearings...? the words 'magneto bearings' ring a bell.? Not sure of the exact spec (anyone?) but I think there are plenty of available sources depending where in the world you are.?
I had my cartridge apart when I bought my Uni but could find no play or roughness in the bearings. I cleaned them with paraffin and repacked with automotive lithium grease and reassembled.
Regards, Andy
|
Second post from me in two days...
This one relates to my next jobs on that cleaned up aluminium offcut but is also quite pertinent to the 'learning the basics' question.
My Uni spends a lot of time in drilling mode and does a pretty decent job of it for someone who can't find space for a dedicated pillar drill but I am often left feeling that there is room for improvement with my technique with holes slightly off target or deep holes diverging from the vertical by more than I would like.?
So... ?excluding modifications to the original machine, ?how to do drilling better on the DB or SL??
Specific variations and questions...
When to clamp and when to slide the vice/job around to move between holes??
Holding sheet material too big for a vice or table
How to hit the mark accurately (or why do I often miss?)?
Centre punch or edge find and use the dials??
Centre drill or not? (I now use a 3mm 90 degree spotting drill which is easier to eyeball onto marks)?
Do all ops on one hole before moving to the next or do all holes with one tool before changing tools??
Tool changes and limited quill travel (a consideration that the drilling section of 'Miniature Machining Techniques' seems to ignore)?
There may be better reading material available - most of what I have is about lathe work.?
Regards, Andy
|
Re: Milling Depth Indicator
Hi Gang:
I don't see
adding a tapped hole in anything as "Damage". I tapped holes in
my table saw top to mount my Unimat to something stable to use
it. I also tapped holes in my Unimat cross slide to mount a
digital read out. Tapped holes in my Smithy lathe/mill to add a
three axis DRO, etc. And don't get me started in all the holes
I've cut in our pop-up camper to make it nicer: sized from 1/8"
to a 24"x50" skylight hole. So it is far from untouched
original!
So tap away
and improve your machines!
Good Luck,
Carl.
On 5/13/2024 3:16 AM, Dave Seiter
wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Nice!? If one didn't want to
damage their original column, they could just as easily make a
steel or aluminum base for the indicator that clamps on the
top of the column.? I may have to do that.
-Dave
On Sunday, May 12, 2024 at 02:09:11 PM PDT, Andy Carlson
via groups.io <andycarlson@...> wrote:
Hi gang,
My column is home made so I had no qualms about drilling
and tapping the end M5 (on a bigger lathe).
Regards, Andy
|
Re: Spindle Bearing Lubrication
https://unimat.homestead.com/index.html Is where I got mine. If you're in the the UK or EU, I'm sure there are better places over there, but the Unimat Homestead is a great resource here in the USA.?
Bill in OKC?
William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)
Aphorisms to live by: Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.? SEMPER GUMBY!
Expect in one hand, expectorate in the other. See which one gets full first.
On Monday, May 13, 2024 at 02:31:49 AM CDT, <tony5376@...> wrote:
Does anyone know of a place to purchase the headstock bearings?
|
Re: Spindle Bearing Lubrication
Does anyone know of a place to purchase the headstock bearings?
|
Re: Milling Depth Indicator
Nice!? If one didn't want to damage their original column, they could just as easily make a steel or aluminum base for the indicator that clamps on the top of the column.? I may have to do that.
-Dave
On Sunday, May 12, 2024 at 02:09:11 PM PDT, Andy Carlson via groups.io <andycarlson@...> wrote:
Hi gang, Inspired by the discussion on here a little while back I finally got around to having another go at mounting an indicator on my milling column. My column is home made so I had no qualms about drilling and tapping the end M5 (on a bigger lathe). On top of this I attach a piece of 5/16 bar also drilled and tapped with a length of M5 studding in between. The block is from 1/2 in square steel with M4 Allen screws for clamping. Finally the horizontal bar is from 3/8 steel with the ends turned down and one end threaded M6 to attach through the bracket on the back of the indicator body? I took it for a test drive cleaning up a sawn aluminium offcut for further use. After a few niggles with loose bits it worked really well... better than I had expected. I ended up with a 10mm cutter taking 3 thou cuts. Unusually for a milling job I actually enjoyed it. Photos attached... I hope? Regards, Andy  
|
Re: Recommendations for learning the basics
It may have been holding the center, or the center may have been protruding from the through hole in the chuck. And some folks do hold stock in the chuck, with a center in the tailstock. It's not best practice, but works well enough if you don't need ultimate accuracy.?
Bill in OKC?
William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)
Aphorisms to live by: Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.? SEMPER GUMBY!
Expect in one hand, expectorate in the other. See which one gets full first.
On Sunday, May 12, 2024 at 05:02:19 PM CDT, Brad Barton via groups.io <xbartx@...> wrote:
On Sun, May 12, 2024 at 02:24 PM, Nate Crouch wrote:
If your ultimate goal is to learn manual machining/ basic lathe work, don't waste your time going through the lens?of the Unimat platform.
I didn't go looking for a lathe, my son saw it at a neighbors garage sale. He know I work on old brass locomotives, simple stuff of rebuilding them, not building the from scratch. The idea of being able to make my own tiny metric screws, mill a new part or make a new motor mount is what made me buy it. It was very cheap and I figured not much to loose.
Faceplate & lathe dog are used together for turning between centers. That gets you the most accurately made parts your lathe can make.??
?
The video I looked at showing the use of the lathe dog still had a chuck mounted and that confused me. The chuck must not have been holding the stock.
|
Re: Recommendations for learning the basics
Taps and dies would also be "other attachments." :)
Bill in OKC?
William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)
Aphorisms to live by: Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.? SEMPER GUMBY!
Expect in one hand, expectorate in the other. See which one gets full first.
On Sunday, May 12, 2024 at 03:45:37 PM CDT, Charles Kinzer <ckinzer@...> wrote:
Since we are talking about the basics, and just to clarify, threads CAN be cut on a Unimat using conventional taps and dies.? The type of threading that requires the thread chaser option is "single point threading" where you thread with a lathe tool bit.? It's my experience that most hobby sized projects typically involve very small thread diameters and using taps and dies is sufficient.
Charles E. "Chuck" Kinzer
On Sunday, May 12, 2024 at 01:04:21 PM PDT, Bill in OKC too via groups.io <wmrmeyers@...> wrote:
That's? what I said. It was Brad who was asking. It is a powerful technique. At one time, all turning was done between centers.?
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=1b3jx7JP1Fc&pp=ygUQU3ByaW5ncG9sZSBsYXRoZQ%3D%3D
I got to try this at the local Renaissance Faire back before I found and bought my first import metalworking lathe. And I've done a bit of studying on the history of tools, and especially machine tools. There are pictures in Egyptian tombs that areclosing on 4000 years old with a lathe similar to the one in the video link. I have photos from the internet of the first screw cutting lathe.
I've seen stone jars, mostly onyx, turned on a lathe, while I was stationed in Turkey in the 80's, too. They were replicas of those found in the ruins of nations you read about in the history books. The guys I was watching had modern metalworking lathes, but I could imagine...
And the first screw cutting lathe was made about 1797, by a guy named Henry Maudsley.?
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Screw-cutting_lathe
The Unimat cannot cut screw threads without some added attachments. Otherwise, it's?a pretty useful machines and ff you need to cut threads, it is possible. With the right stuff...
Bill in OKC?
William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)
Aphorisms to live by: Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.? SEMPER GUMBY!
Expect in one hand, expectorate in the other. See which one gets full first.
On Sunday, May 12, 2024 at 12:23:47 PM CDT, Carl <carl.blum@...> wrote:
Hi Bill:
The lathe dog
is for turning between centers, the most repeatable clamping on
a lathe.
Carl.
On 5/12/2024 11:10 AM, Brad Barton via
groups.io wrote:
On Sun, May 12, 2024 at 07:57 AM, Bill in OKC too wrote:
Faceplate
& lathe dog are used together for turning between centers.
That gets you the most accurately made parts your lathe can
make.??
?
I'm trying to wrap my brain around the need for the lathe dog,
doesn't the chuck do a good enough job holding the stock?
The next question that comes to mind is the tooling, should I
buy new tooling. It came with a lot but I don't know the
condition any of it is in. I might take a picture of just the
tooling and get some help of what I have and the use of each
type of tool.
|
Re: Recommendations for learning the basics
On Sun, May 12, 2024 at 07:57 AM, Bill in OKC too wrote:
Over on the right side of the photo is at least part of an "American" or Lantern style toolpost. There should be a rocker with it. Looks sort of like a big, wide, long Woodruff key. They're more versatile that the toolbox that's on the lathe table.
Although lantern tool posts are called 'American style', the Unimat lantern is a copy of a Schaublin lantern toolpost. If you look carefully you'll notice the threaded interposer that allows for a ground toolbit to be adjusted (raised or lowered) by screwing the round knurled ring up or down. Very clever design that eliminates the need for shimming. There is no rocker supplied, nor is one necessary. ? ? ?https://toolmaillathe.com/lathe-lantern-tool-post-schaublin-70-102-hardinge-watchmaker-model-small.php
|
Re: Recommendations for learning the basics
Hi Nate:
You can clamp
a dead center in the chuck and use the jaws to drive the dog.
Even better, dress the dead center true after clamping it.
Carl.
On 5/12/2024 6:02 PM, Brad Barton via
groups.io wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Faceplate
& lathe dog are used together for turning between centers.
That gets you the most accurately made parts your lathe can
make.??
?
The video I looked at showing the use of the lathe dog still
had a chuck mounted and that confused me. The chuck must not
have been holding the stock.
|
Re: Recommendations for learning the basics
not recommended to purchase?anything at this point. It's information?that ultimately?win wars. there is enough of it to drown in a 100 times over on these sites. ?besides it's only the likes of chairman Mao, and the gods of future landfills that stand to reap the benefits?of a uniformed purchase.
On Sun, May 12, 2024 at 7:55?PM Gerald Feldman via <gfeldman2904= [email protected]> wrote: Brad, ? Just to clarify, 3-jaw self-centering lathe chucks (the most common type) will get your work-piece within a few thousandths of an inch of center IF the chuck is well made, and is in good condition.? Such a chuck is adequate for almost all of the work that a hobbyist might do.? If you need to center your work more accurately, (for making very small diameter screws for example), you can switch to an independent four-jaw chuck and using a dial test indicator adjust the individual jaws to minimize the centering error (called run-out).? Drawbacks to using this technique is that it takes some skill and practice to learn how to do this quickly, and if you have to remove the piece from the chuck to do something else to it, you will have to center it all over again when placed back in the chuck.? For the greatest accuracy, one first finds the center of the piece and drills a small center hole at that location.? One then flips the piece around to find and drill a small center hole in the end opposite the first.? As previously described, the piece is then mounted, supported, and free to rotate ?between two lathe centers (one in the headstock and one in the tailstock).? For machining, the piece is then made to rotate by driving it with a lathe dog.? This setup has the added advantage of being able to remove the work piece from the lathe and then remount it or even flip it end to end, and it will remain centered. ? ? Hope this helps. ? Jerry F. ? ? On Sun, May 12, 2024 at 07:57 AM, Bill in OKC too wrote: Faceplate & lathe dog are used together for turning between centers. That gets you the most accurately made parts your lathe can make.?? I'm trying to wrap my brain around the need for the lathe dog, doesn't the chuck do a good enough job holding the stock? The next question that comes to mind is the tooling, should I buy new tooling. It came with a lot but I don't know the condition any of it is in. I might take a picture of just the tooling and get some help of what I have and the use of each type of tool.
|
Re: Recommendations for learning the basics
Brad, ? Just to clarify, 3-jaw self-centering lathe chucks (the most common type) will get your work-piece within a few thousandths of an inch of center IF the chuck is well made, and is in good condition.? Such a chuck is adequate for almost all of the work that a hobbyist might do.? If you need to center your work more accurately, (for making very small diameter screws for example), you can switch to an independent four-jaw chuck and using a dial test indicator adjust the individual jaws to minimize the centering error (called run-out).? Drawbacks to using this technique is that it takes some skill and practice to learn how to do this quickly, and if you have to remove the piece from the chuck to do something else to it, you will have to center it all over again when placed back in the chuck.? For the greatest accuracy, one first finds the center of the piece and drills a small center hole at that location.? One then flips the piece around to find and drill a small center hole in the end opposite the first.? As previously described, the piece is then mounted, supported, and free to rotate ?between two lathe centers (one in the headstock and one in the tailstock).? For machining, the piece is then made to rotate by driving it with a lathe dog.? This setup has the added advantage of being able to remove the work piece from the lathe and then remount it or even flip it end to end, and it will remain centered. ? ? Hope this helps. ? Jerry F. ?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Brad Barton via groups.io
Sent: Sunday, May 12, 2024 8:10 AM
To: Bill in OKC too; [email protected]
Subject: Re: [Unimat] Recommendations for learning the basics? On Sun, May 12, 2024 at 07:57 AM, Bill in OKC too wrote: Faceplate & lathe dog are used together for turning between centers. That gets you the most accurately made parts your lathe can make.?? I'm trying to wrap my brain around the need for the lathe dog, doesn't the chuck do a good enough job holding the stock? The next question that comes to mind is the tooling, should I buy new tooling. It came with a lot but I don't know the condition any of it is in. I might take a picture of just the tooling and get some help of what I have and the use of each type of tool.
|
Re: Recommendations for learning the basics
I have been watching Quinn in Blondihacks, I think she does a great job of explaining everything.
I'm sure I'll have plenty of more questions and think best if I start a new post when I do.
Folks here seem happy to help and I really appreciate it.
-Brad Barton
|
Re: Recommendations for learning the basics
On Sun, May 12, 2024 at 02:24 PM, Nate Crouch wrote:
If your ultimate goal is to learn manual machining/ basic lathe work, don't waste your time going through the lens?of the Unimat platform.
I didn't go looking for a lathe, my son saw it at a neighbors garage sale. He know I work on old brass locomotives, simple stuff of rebuilding them, not building the from scratch. The idea of being able to make my own tiny metric screws, mill a new part or make a new motor mount is what made me buy it. It was very cheap and I figured not much to loose.
Faceplate & lathe dog are used together for turning between centers. That gets you the most accurately made parts your lathe can make.??
?
The video I looked at showing the use of the lathe dog still had a chuck mounted and that confused me. The chuck must not have been holding the stock.
|
Re: Recommendations for learning the basics
hats off to a great post!!! obviously as indicated through the volume of responses. ? ?Hopefully Rudy Kouhoupt has already been mentioned,?He was a great author and teacher, one?of the first through the use videos i believe. He owned and used a SL in some of his videos?if I remember correctly.? If your ultimate goal is to learn manual machining/ basic lathe work, don't waste your time going through the lens?of the Unimat platform. They are TOYS. The learning they do offer comes from the knowledge shared in forums like this, which is usually? about getting past their?shortcomings, all of which?are based in the origins of Karl Maier's design. Full disclosure: I own four or more cast DB's... but if you scored a sweet one ( all original ) ?shelve it, or sell it to suckers like us. snag up a whipped or better SouthBend 9" with the proceeds... Rudy's Basic & advanced Videos are done on one.? Score a copy of J. Randolph Bulgin "the engine lathe for the beginner" also done on a SB 9. Guy Lautard is back in action? Precisionmeasure.com? Machine shop secrets. a great video? ClickSpring comes from a clockers makers background ... enough said? and blondes do have more fun.
cheers,? Nate ??
On Sun, May 12, 2024 at 2:16?PM Charles Kinzer via <ckinzer= [email protected]> wrote: Something important to learn is how to grind tool bits.? The usual way is by using a bench grinder.? A 6 inch bench grinder would be adequate and can be obtained for a pretty low cost.? There ARE more sophisticated machines made for grinding tool bits, but you really don't need anything like that.? Also, usually you don't want a grinder located too close to the lathe because grinding dust isn't good for machines.
"Back in the day" it was common for the first section of a machine shop class to be about tool bit grinding.? The various angles needed.? "Rake" and "Clearance".? Differences for difference materials and different surface finish and such.? You can't get good results with poorly formed tool bits.
You will also run across "inserts" which is a scheme where there is a holder, and you buy little (real little for a Unimat) pre-made tool inserts that mount in the holder.? I recommend just using HSS (High Speed Steel) tool bits in a small machine like this.? You may also run across pre-ground "carbide" tools and in my experience the hobby ones come from China and are junk.
It looks like a lot of tool bits came with the lathe.? I would assume it is likely they were done with some competence, and many can serve as examples.? But like all lathe training, tutorials exist for tool bit geometry.? And information there is translatable to other metal cutting tools from milling cutters to drills.
Somewhat related is the creation of chips.? You can end up getting long stringy chips.? These are a safety hazard even on a small machine.? You can get a finger tangled up and sometimes the long string suddenly wraps itself around the rotating parts dragging in, perhaps, a finger.? In some machine shops, it is a firing offense to produce long stringy chips because, especially with larger machines, it can be so dangerous.? So, there are things like "chip breakers" that can be ground into tool bits if needed.? Anyway, I have seen some brag about how long of a chip they can make.? That's amateurish and a very bad practice.
Charles E. "Chuck" Kinzer
|
Hi gang, Inspired by the discussion on here a little while back I finally got around to having another go at mounting an indicator on my milling column. My column is home made so I had no qualms about drilling and tapping the end M5 (on a bigger lathe). On top of this I attach a piece of 5/16 bar also drilled and tapped with a length of M5 studding in between. The block is from 1/2 in square steel with M4 Allen screws for clamping. Finally the horizontal bar is from 3/8 steel with the ends turned down and one end threaded M6 to attach through the bracket on the back of the indicator body? I took it for a test drive cleaning up a sawn aluminium offcut for further use. After a few niggles with loose bits it worked really well... better than I had expected. I ended up with a 10mm cutter taking 3 thou cuts. Unusually for a milling job I actually enjoyed it. Photos attached... I hope? Regards, Andy  
|
Re: Recommendations for learning the basics
Since we are talking about the basics, and just to clarify, threads CAN be cut on a Unimat using conventional taps and dies.? The type of threading that requires the thread chaser option is "single point threading" where you thread with a lathe tool bit.? It's my experience that most hobby sized projects typically involve very small thread diameters and using taps and dies is sufficient.
Charles E. "Chuck" Kinzer
On Sunday, May 12, 2024 at 01:04:21 PM PDT, Bill in OKC too via groups.io <wmrmeyers@...> wrote:
That's? what I said. It was Brad who was asking. It is a powerful technique. At one time, all turning was done between centers.?
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=1b3jx7JP1Fc&pp=ygUQU3ByaW5ncG9sZSBsYXRoZQ%3D%3D
I got to try this at the local Renaissance Faire back before I found and bought my first import metalworking lathe. And I've done a bit of studying on the history of tools, and especially machine tools. There are pictures in Egyptian tombs that areclosing on 4000 years old with a lathe similar to the one in the video link. I have photos from the internet of the first screw cutting lathe.
I've seen stone jars, mostly onyx, turned on a lathe, while I was stationed in Turkey in the 80's, too. They were replicas of those found in the ruins of nations you read about in the history books. The guys I was watching had modern metalworking lathes, but I could imagine...
And the first screw cutting lathe was made about 1797, by a guy named Henry Maudsley.?
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Screw-cutting_lathe
The Unimat cannot cut screw threads without some added attachments. Otherwise, it's?a pretty useful machines and ff you need to cut threads, it is possible. With the right stuff...
Bill in?
William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)
Aphorisms to live by: Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.? SEMPER GUMBY!
Expect in one hand, expectorate in the other. See which one gets full first.
On Sunday, May 12, 2024 at 12:23:47 PM CDT, Carl <carl.blum@...> wrote:
Hi Bill:
The lathe dog
is for turning between centers, the most repeatable clamping on
a lathe.
Carl.
On 5/12/2024 11:10 AM, Brad Barton via
groups.io wrote:
On Sun, May 12, 2024 at 07:57 AM, Bill in OKC too wrote:
Faceplate
& lathe dog are used together for turning between centers.
That gets you the most accurately made parts your lathe can
make.??
?
I'm trying to wrap my brain around the need for the lathe dog,
doesn't the chuck do a good enough job holding the stock?
The next question that comes to mind is the tooling, should I
buy new tooling. It came with a lot but I don't know the
condition any of it is in. I might take a picture of just the
tooling and get some help of what I have and the use of each
type of tool.
|
Re: Recommendations for learning the basics
That's? what I said. It was Brad who was asking. It is a powerful technique. At one time, all turning was done between centers.?
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=1b3jx7JP1Fc&pp=ygUQU3ByaW5ncG9sZSBsYXRoZQ%3D%3D
I got to try this at the local Renaissance Faire back before I found and bought my first import metalworking lathe. And I've done a bit of studying on the history of tools, and especially machine tools. There are pictures in Egyptian tombs that areclosing on 4000 years old with a lathe similar to the one in the video link. I have photos from the internet of the first screw cutting lathe.
I've seen stone jars, mostly onyx, turned on a lathe, while I was stationed in Turkey in the 80's, too. They were replicas of those found in the ruins of nations you read about in the history books. The guys I was watching had modern metalworking lathes, but I could imagine...
And the first screw cutting lathe was made about 1797, by a guy named Henry Maudsley.?
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Screw-cutting_lathe
The Unimat cannot cut screw threads without some added attachments. Otherwise, it's?a pretty useful machines and ff you need to cut threads, it is possible. With the right stuff...
Bill in?
William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)
Aphorisms to live by: Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.? SEMPER GUMBY!
Expect in one hand, expectorate in the other. See which one gets full first.
On Sunday, May 12, 2024 at 12:23:47 PM CDT, Carl <carl.blum@...> wrote:
Hi Bill:
The lathe dog
is for turning between centers, the most repeatable clamping on
a lathe.
Carl.
On 5/12/2024 11:10 AM, Brad Barton via
groups.io wrote:
On Sun, May 12, 2024 at 07:57 AM, Bill in OKC too wrote:
Faceplate
& lathe dog are used together for turning between centers.
That gets you the most accurately made parts your lathe can
make.??
?
I'm trying to wrap my brain around the need for the lathe dog,
doesn't the chuck do a good enough job holding the stock?
The next question that comes to mind is the tooling, should I
buy new tooling. It came with a lot but I don't know the
condition any of it is in. I might take a picture of just the
tooling and get some help of what I have and the use of each
type of tool.
|
Re: Recommendations for learning the basics
Something important to learn is how to grind tool bits.? The usual way is by using a bench grinder.? A 6 inch bench grinder would be adequate and can be obtained for a pretty low cost.? There ARE more sophisticated machines made for grinding tool bits, but you really don't need anything like that.? Also, usually you don't want a grinder located too close to the lathe because grinding dust isn't good for machines.
"Back in the day" it was common for the first section of a machine shop class to be about tool bit grinding.? The various angles needed.? "Rake" and "Clearance".? Differences for difference materials and different surface finish and such.? You can't get good results with poorly formed tool bits.
You will also run across "inserts" which is a scheme where there is a holder, and you buy little (real little for a Unimat) pre-made tool inserts that mount in the holder.? I recommend just using HSS (High Speed Steel) tool bits in a small machine like this.? You may also run across pre-ground "carbide" tools and in my experience the hobby ones come from China and are junk.
It looks like a lot of tool bits came with the lathe.? I would assume it is likely they were done with some competence, and many can serve as examples.? But like all lathe training, tutorials exist for tool bit geometry.? And information there is translatable to other metal cutting tools from milling cutters to drills.
Somewhat related is the creation of chips.? You can end up getting long stringy chips.? These are a safety hazard even on a small machine.? You can get a finger tangled up and sometimes the long string suddenly wraps itself around the rotating parts dragging in, perhaps, a finger.? In some machine shops, it is a firing offense to produce long stringy chips because, especially with larger machines, it can be so dangerous.? So, there are things like "chip breakers" that can be ground into tool bits if needed.? Anyway, I have seen some brag about how long of a chip they can make.? That's amateurish and a very bad practice.
Charles E. "Chuck" Kinzer
|
Re: Recommendations for learning the basics
Both excellent examples. I really like Quinn in Blondihacks. She's not afraid to admit her mistakes. And Chris at Clicsprings is a freaking wizard! I doubt I'll ever be half the machinist he is, but I enjoy learning from him, too.?
I took a machining class, and was disappointed that they did not teach turning between centers, but it was the fundamentals class for their CNC machining class. Apparently they don't use between centers turning on CNC machines. I still learned a lot. And there are all the old books...
Bill in OKC?
William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)
Aphorisms to live by: Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.? SEMPER GUMBY!
Expect in one hand, expectorate in the other. See which one gets full first.
On Sunday, May 12, 2024 at 12:02:00 PM CDT, John Dammeyer <johnd@...> wrote:
Clickspring always has good videos.? Here¡¯s an example of turning between centers.
In this case on the headstock end he mounts the center in the chuck and machines the hex piece to the point.? That makes it perfectly concentric with the lathe axis. ? Also Blondihacks has interesting videos. Here at 6:58 she shows between centers turning.
? I use the technique on my South Bend all the time.? Here to turn a pulley on a custom tapered arbor.? The arbor was made first and a trial fit was done with the original cast pulley. ? ? John ?
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Brad Barton via groups.io
Sent: May 12, 2024 8:10 AM
To: Bill in OKC too; [email protected]
Subject: Re: [Unimat] Recommendations for learning the basics ? On Sun, May 12, 2024 at 07:57 AM, Bill in OKC too wrote: Faceplate & lathe dog are used together for turning between centers. That gets you the most accurately made parts your lathe can make.?? I'm trying to wrap my brain around the need for the lathe dog, doesn't the chuck do a good enough job holding the stock? The next question that comes to mind is the tooling, should I buy new tooling. It came with a lot but I don't know the condition any of it is in. I might take a picture of just the tooling and get some help of what I have and the use of each type of tool.
|
Carl
Bill in OKC too