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Re: 3D print models for DB/SL parts and accessories.

 

I agree with all the above. ;-) Either orientation is good probably. Like Don said, watch the rough hole size as compared to the finished (bored) size and make sure you leave enough wall thickness. This is fun!?
Re: 3D print models for DB/SL parts and accessories.

 

"CNC Kitchen" probably, he has a lot of good content running tests like that.? We actually made a similar tensile test machine to his here at work after seeing it
Re: 3D print models for DB/SL parts and accessories.

 

One thing to remember when 3D printing, then machining that object to size...? Unless you're printing with 100% infill, you've got to be sure your perimeter walls are thick enough that you will still have a decent wall thickness after machining.? I believe that a lot of the strength in a 3D print is in the perimeter walls.? I vaguely remember somebody doing a video testing various wall thicknesses, but not who did it.

Don
Re: unimat 3d model project

 

It's on my todo list to actually cast some of these parts in aluminum since its a process I enjoy.? I have my doubts that could be done small scale any cheaper than the inflated prices though.? For ones own self maybe since its just time, but turning that time in to dollars suddenly a 100 dollar ebay tailstock doesn't look that bad lol
Re: unimat 3d model project

 

I agree and that¡¯s why I¡¯m wavering on the material for the screw. I was trying to avoid turning the steel. ;-) but it is a small part and will be mostly threaded, so I guess it really isn¡¯t a big deal. I like the functionality of the original tailstock for some things so would like to keep my version of it working that way.?
The Taig tailstock on my machine now works well, but I really want to provide some ¡®parts¡¯ availability other than paying the inflated, unrealistic amount for original parts.?
Re: 3D print models for DB/SL parts and accessories.

 

This is true.? My first thought with the orientation I used was making it as concentric as possible.? Something I never had great luck with horizontally.? I never thought to just bore it afterwards until Carl's comment.

Either way its fairly beefy, I think it'd be alright within the limits of what you'd do on a unimat anyway.? Just a guess/feels though
Re: 3D print models for DB/SL parts and accessories.

 

Oh, small diameter horizontal holes typically don¡¯t need support so printing with the main housing horizontal (and a smaller ID bore) should be easy actually.?
Re: 3D print models for DB/SL parts and accessories.

 

I like the idea and especially like the idea of boring from the headstock. But, remember that the weakest way to print a tube is vertically. I¡¯ve been looking at printing it horizontally, which wouldn¡¯t be a big deal IF one planned to bore it on the machine.?
Interesting ideas¡­?
Re: 3D print models for DB/SL parts and accessories.

 

hah I never thought about boring it out.? that'd have a lot of benefits.? smoother bore, more perfect size and alignment etc.

Here's another with the bore 2mm undersized to leave plenty of material for that.

Same warnings, I haven't even tried it, was just a random idea

Tail Stock - Modified for printing - Undersized for boring.stl
Tail Stock - Modified for printing - Undersized for boring.stl

Re: unimat 3d model project

 

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Hi Nevadablue:

Aluminum on Aluminum, expect gaulding. I would use a steel thread.

Carl.

On 3/27/2024 5:18 PM, Nevadablue wrote:

Thanks SMJ for that model. I¡¯m completely incompetent (at a lot of things) at CAD so what you made should make it possible for others to replace missing parts.?
I just ordered some aluminum stock to make the quill for a replacement tailstock. If it works, I will show the process. I really believe that ordinary 3d printed parts and aluminum and brass parts are sufficient for most Unimat use.?
I¡¯m now debating about an aluminum feed screw in the aluminum quill or if I should use brass for the screw. I¡¯m not worried about corrosion, I don¡¯t store my tools in salt water.?

Re: unimat 3d model project

 

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Hi Gang:

I was thinking about a printed tailstock and how to fit the left handed screw. What if you just tapped the whole tail stock M12x1? You could put a collar on the headstock end to stop the drill chuck and a hand crank on the back end for advancing the tools or centers. Yes the chuck would rotate as you advance it, but would that be bad?

Carl.

On 3/27/2024 5:07 PM, rick@... wrote:

I wish you had, looks like you did a great job on the U3 model lol.? Hopefully I'm up to the task.? I do a lot of modeling and reverse engineering at work.? I trust myself to get the important dimensions right, not so confident on the various curved surfaces and what not.? I'm starting on it soon though.? Mine is getting stripped down starting tonight

Re: 3D print models for DB/SL parts and accessories.

 

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Hello Rick:

I really like it! And you can still bore it from the head stock.

I might like to print one for use with the head stock riser block!

Thanks, Carl.

On 3/27/2024 5:26 PM, rick@... wrote:

Also if anyone felt it was truly a thing worth chasing, I'd bet it wouldn't be difficult to model around some off the shelf parts to make it a bit more functional without needing any of the original parts.? Threaded rods, brass sleeves etc are all pretty easy to come by in a lot of sizes.? I was just bored at the office and wanted to see if I could make it more printable for now lol

Re: unimat 3d model project

 

I'm in your debt. Thankyou.
DB200 for sale

 

have a Unimat DB200 for sale. It is in working condition and has the power feed attachment. I have a number of accessories including the milling column and table, divider head, threading attachment w 16 and 18 tpi dies, the frame for the low speed pulley set-up and a few other items. The lathe is mounted on a baseplate with a wooden cover.? US$650.

I have not checked shipping cost which would be additional, so pick-up would be preferred.

See attached photos.

Mark Walter
contact via e-mail
m2walter@...
Re: unimat 3d model project

 

lol I will forever refer to my 3d printers as "plastic poopers" from here on out
Re: unimat 3d model project

 

"not so confident on the various curved surfaces and what not"

If you've got a 3D printer, use your plastic-pooping-robot to print yourself some radius gauges, that's what I did.? I've got a set of 2-20mm internal/external radius gauges printed out now and that covers most of what I need, plus it's pretty easy to print more when you need them.? I print them about 1mm thick so they print pretty fast.? I wouldn't trust them for professional usage, but for light-duty hobby use - they work for me.

Don
Re: 3D print models for DB/SL parts and accessories.

 

Also if anyone felt it was truly a thing worth chasing, I'd bet it wouldn't be difficult to model around some off the shelf parts to make it a bit more functional without needing any of the original parts.? Threaded rods, brass sleeves etc are all pretty easy to come by in a lot of sizes.? I was just bored at the office and wanted to see if I could make it more printable for now lol
Re: 3D print models for DB/SL parts and accessories.

 

Not sure if this would work but I modified the tailstock model to make it easier to print.? If printed in the orientation of the screenshot it shouldn't need any supports.?

Huge "I haven't even tested this" note on it though, I was just curious after seeing you talk about 3d printing the tailstock if I could make it an easier/better print.

Tail Stock - Modified for printing v4.stl
Tail Stock - Modified for printing v4.stl
Screenshot 2024-03-27 122348.png

Re: Need Unimat DB/SL parts or accessories?

 

Yes, teasing in a way, but ¡®guide pin¡¯ for something that looks like a spacer bushing??
Re: unimat 3d model project

 

Thanks SMJ for that model. I¡¯m completely incompetent (at a lot of things) at CAD so what you made should make it possible for others to replace missing parts.?
I just ordered some aluminum stock to make the quill for a replacement tailstock. If it works, I will show the process. I really believe that ordinary 3d printed parts and aluminum and brass parts are sufficient for most Unimat use.?
I¡¯m now debating about an aluminum feed screw in the aluminum quill or if I should use brass for the screw. I¡¯m not worried about corrosion, I don¡¯t store my tools in salt water.?
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