Re: Feed Transmission For Mini Lathe ?
Try the Little Machine Shop they may have what you need.
Richard
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Re: Dumb question dept. - and what about the Unimat grub screw
While we¡¯re on the subject of grub screws in the Unimats - what¡¯s with the ball bearing under the (?) cup screw, pressing on the cross slide gib on the U3? ?Seems like an odd arrangement¡
And just what is the proper way to adjust this and the gib on the U3 cross slide?
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Re: Dumb question dept. - and what about the Unimat grub screw
You're looking for M6 DIN 417 grub screws for the front of the tailstock and for the headstock. Normal dog points won't work!
On Wed, 30 Aug 2023, 09:51 Herman de Leeuw via , <herman.deleeuw= [email protected]> wrote:
Thanks for the fascinating discussion. If I may, what would be the advice for the grub screws that are found on the Unimats? Which form should these have? So far, I believe mine (for drilling head and tail stock) to be flat with some 3 mm of thread removed.
Herman
Thanks in advance?
Yes the typical smaller screws are cold formed. The end of the screw shows what happens when a formed thread is not supported. Those smaller screws are squished between 2 plates with slanted grooves. That is what forms the threads. When the cylindrical shank is squished some of the material deforms out of the end of the screws. If the screw has a squished looking end it was cold formed. If it is perfectly flat with a chamfer then it is machined out of bar stock. Usually over 1¡± are machined.?
Under a 1/4¡± are made on high speed machines, 1/4-7/8¡± are on larger former machines and 1¡± and over are usually machined. That is why pricing changes quite drastically around those sizes.?
If you look carefully, many bolts are not actually flat on the end.? At times I have had to machine the end of a screw flat to not have marring.
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Re: Dumb question dept. - and what about the Unimat grub screw
Thanks for that! I will check the various grub screws and correct where necessary.?
Herman
Op 31-08-2023 04:55 schreef Pachyderm <mirafone186@...>:
Hi, Herman.
On the tailstock, the one by the quill is a dog point. It rides inside a channel and acts as a stop or a limiting screw. The one by the handle is a cone point, as it is used to firmly lock the bearing in place. (In the manual the bearing is called a "guide pin".) It stabs down into the bearing to freeze it in place within the casting.
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Re: Feed Transmission For Mini Lathe ?
Forgot to mention, but grizzly has good manuals, parts diagrams, and they carry full parts stock. Try them, as well.
Get
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Show quoted text
Hey Guys, I'm hoping some of you bright people will be able to help. I'm looking for a Feed Transmission for a Sieg C0 Mini Lathe. Ive seen photos of them before and they appear really simple, driven by a small rubber belt connected to a shaft with a radius
groove for a pulley. The shaft then has two small bevel gears to transfer the motion to the lead-screw. The problem I face is the housing is cast and I could perhaps weld up something else it would be a bit of a faf and the other is that i cant index gears.
So I'm looking for some simple parts to make my own. I will need two small bevel gears but can make my own shafts and would also need the rubber belt. How to make the 'housing' will pose the biggest problem, one which i have not thought about as yet but I'm
sure i could make this too if i apply myself. I'm just reaching out to see if anyone can help ! Maybe someone has a spare assembly for an old sieg c0 they never use. Mine is an ax-minster but they are the same lathe. I think grizzly also did one, or badged
one imported from who knows where. I'm in the UK though so bear this in mind
|
Re: Feed Transmission For Mini Lathe ?
Littlemachineshop.com sells parts for it, and they are helpful and knowledgeable. Go to their website or just call them for guidance?
Get
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Hey Guys, I'm hoping some of you bright people will be able to help. I'm looking for a Feed Transmission for a Sieg C0 Mini Lathe. Ive seen photos of them before and they appear really simple, driven by a small rubber belt connected to a shaft with a radius
groove for a pulley. The shaft then has two small bevel gears to transfer the motion to the lead-screw. The problem I face is the housing is cast and I could perhaps weld up something else it would be a bit of a faf and the other is that i cant index gears.
So I'm looking for some simple parts to make my own. I will need two small bevel gears but can make my own shafts and would also need the rubber belt. How to make the 'housing' will pose the biggest problem, one which i have not thought about as yet but I'm
sure i could make this too if i apply myself. I'm just reaching out to see if anyone can help ! Maybe someone has a spare assembly for an old sieg c0 they never use. Mine is an ax-minster but they are the same lathe. I think grizzly also did one, or badged
one imported from who knows where. I'm in the UK though so bear this in mind
|
Feed Transmission For Mini Lathe ?
Hey Guys, I'm hoping some of you bright people will be able to help. I'm looking for a Feed Transmission for a Sieg C0 Mini Lathe. Ive seen photos of them before and they appear really simple, driven by a small rubber belt connected to a shaft with a radius groove for a pulley. The shaft then has two small bevel gears to transfer the motion to the lead-screw. The problem I face is the housing is cast and I could perhaps weld up something else it would be a bit of a faf and the other is that i cant index gears. So I'm looking for some simple parts to make my own. I will need two small bevel gears but can make my own shafts and would also need the rubber belt. How to make the 'housing' will pose the biggest problem, one which i have not thought about as yet but I'm sure i could make this too if i apply myself. I'm just reaching out to see if anyone can help ! Maybe someone has a spare assembly for an old sieg c0 they never use. Mine is an ax-minster but they are the same lathe. I think grizzly also did one, or badged one imported from who knows where. I'm in the UK though so bear this in mind
|
Re: Dumb question dept. - and what about the Unimat grub screw
Hi, Herman.
On the tailstock, the one by the quill is a dog point. It rides inside a channel and acts as a stop or a limiting screw. The one by the handle is a cone point, as it is used to firmly lock the bearing in place. (In the manual the bearing is called a "guide pin".) It stabs down into the bearing to freeze it in place within the casting.
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Hello John,
I built a Quorn tool and cutter grinder a few years back so I do have the capability of making my own cutters also. I enjoy grinding my own cutters when the need arises. As I commented before, being self sufficient to a point is a positive thing.
Dick
--
http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/?OFF-SET-tailstock-center-65965#post105972
?SMALL TURRET TOOL POST PLANS?
?LARGE TURRET TOOL POST PLANS
?MINI-LATHE CARRIAGE LOCK PLANS
?SMALL QC TOOL POST PLANS?
?QUICK CHANGE LATHE TURRET
?MINI LATHE COMPOUND PIVOT MODIFICATION
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Re: Dumb question dept. - and what about the Unimat grub screw
Hi
Gang:
And the
Unimat is the perfect machine to change a set screw to Dog
Point. ( Carbide might help )
Carl.
On 8/30/2023 8:17 AM, OldToolmaker via
groups.io wrote:
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If you are going to buy one or two look for ¡°dog point set screws¡±
I have a box of them from other projects.
Dick
--
forum/?OFF-SET-tailstock-center-65965#post105972
?SMALL TURRET TOOL POST
PLANS?
?LARGE TURRET TOOL POST PLANS
?MINI-LATHE CARRIAGE
LOCK PLANS
?SMALL QC TOOL POST PLANS?
?QUICK CHANGE LATHE TURRET
?MINI LATHE COMPOUND PIVOT
MODIFICATION
|
Re: Dumb question dept. - and what about the Unimat grub screw
If you are going to buy one or two look for ¡°dog point set screws¡± I have a box of them from other projects.
Dick
--
http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/?OFF-SET-tailstock-center-65965#post105972
?SMALL TURRET TOOL POST PLANS?
?LARGE TURRET TOOL POST PLANS
?MINI-LATHE CARRIAGE LOCK PLANS
?SMALL QC TOOL POST PLANS?
?QUICK CHANGE LATHE TURRET
?MINI LATHE COMPOUND PIVOT MODIFICATION
|
Re: Dumb question dept. - and what about the Unimat grub screw
Screws that are missing several threads and cut square at the end of the screw are ¡°dog screws¡±.? ? Jerry F. ?
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From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Herman de Leeuw via groups.io
Sent: Wednesday, August 30, 2023 1:52 AM
To: [email protected]; Sjkochan@...; johnhutnick@...
Subject: Re: [Unimat] Dumb question dept. - and what about the Unimat grub screw? Thanks for the fascinating discussion. If I may, what would be the advice for the grub screws that are found on the Unimats? Which form should these have? So far, I believe mine (for drilling head and tail stock) to be flat with some 3 mm of thread removed. Op 30-08-2023 04:24 schreef Tool247 <sjkochan@...>: Yes the typical smaller screws are cold formed. The end of the screw shows what happens when a formed thread is not supported. Those smaller screws are squished between 2 plates with slanted grooves. That is what forms the threads. When the cylindrical shank is squished some of the material deforms out of the end of the screws. If the screw has a squished looking end it was cold formed. If it is perfectly flat with a chamfer then it is machined out of bar stock. Usually over 1¡± are machined.? Under a 1/4¡± are made on high speed machines, 1/4-7/8¡± are on larger former machines and 1¡± and over are usually machined. That is why pricing changes quite drastically around those sizes.? ? If you look carefully, many bolts are not actually flat on the end.? At times I have had to machine the end of a screw flat to not have marring. ? ?
|
Re: Dumb question dept. - and what about the Unimat grub screw
Thanks for the fascinating discussion. If I may, what would be the advice for the grub screws that are found on the Unimats? Which form should these have? So far, I believe mine (for drilling head and tail stock) to be flat with some 3 mm of thread removed.
Herman
Thanks in advance?
Op 30-08-2023 04:24 schreef Tool247 <sjkochan@...>:
Yes the typical smaller screws are cold formed. The end of the screw shows what happens when a formed thread is not supported. Those smaller screws are squished between 2 plates with slanted grooves. That is what forms the threads. When the cylindrical shank is squished some of the material deforms out of the end of the screws. If the screw has a squished looking end it was cold formed. If it is perfectly flat with a chamfer then it is machined out of bar stock. Usually over 1¡± are machined.?
Under a 1/4¡± are made on high speed machines, 1/4-7/8¡± are on larger former machines and 1¡± and over are usually machined. That is why pricing changes quite drastically around those sizes.?
If you look carefully, many bolts are not actually flat on the end.? At times I have had to machine the end of a screw flat to not have marring.
|
Yes the typical smaller screws are cold formed. The end of the screw shows what happens when a formed thread is not supported. Those smaller screws are squished between 2 plates with slanted grooves. That is what forms the threads. When the cylindrical shank is squished some of the material deforms out of the end of the screws. If the screw has a squished looking end it was cold formed. If it is perfectly flat with a chamfer then it is machined out of bar stock. Usually over 1¡± are machined.?
Under a 1/4¡± are made on high speed machines, 1/4-7/8¡± are on larger former machines and 1¡± and over are usually machined. That is why pricing changes quite drastically around those sizes.?
?
If you look carefully, many bolts are not actually flat on the end.? At times I have had to machine the end of a screw flat to not have marring.
|
Kevin Groenke @ PersonMakeObject
Also, the reason set (grub) screws have many end varieties is because that is a "working" portion of the design. On typical bolts and applicatiin, the primary "working" portion of the design is the head and shoulder which, of course, there are almost countless varieties of.
On Tue, Aug 29, 2023, 1:57 PM Peter Brooks < peter@...> wrote: I have a dumb question - why are there flat, cup and cone termination varieties of grub screw, when bolts only (as far as I¡¯m aware) come in one style?
I¡¯m guessing they have a specific purpose¡
|
If you look carefully, many bolts are not actually flat on the end.? At times I have had to machine the end of a screw flat to not have marring.
|
Hello
Peter:
You are
right, bolts usually only have the straight end, but there are
self-tapping ends.
But the
Point is the "working" end of a set screw, and each Point has
a special purpose.
Flat
and Oval points are mostly for clamping and not damaging the
shaft.
Cup and
Cone points are for more robust clamping where scoring the
shaft is acceptable.
Dog and
Half Dog points (also called
extended point)? often seat in slots in shafts allowing a
sliding fit.
Soft-Tip
points avoid damaging the shaft and can be brass or plastic.
There
are also Hollow-Lock set screws for locking and adjusting a
second set screw.
Check
for a large assortment.
Carl.
On 8/29/2023 2:57 PM, Peter Brooks
wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
I have a dumb question - why are there flat, cup and cone
termination varieties of grub screw, when bolts only (as far as
I¡¯m aware) come in one style?
I¡¯m guessing they have a specific purpose¡
|
Kevin Groenke @ PersonMakeObject
I was thinking of writing an answer but just did a copy/paste from Wikipedia instead. Also, many bolts do have different end shapes.
"Set screws appear with a variety of tip (point) types. The different shaped tips have different properties that engineers can utilize. If an engineer were to use a detent to ensure proper nesting of the screw, they might choose to use a cone point type of screw. One might often need to use a flat point when the screw must press perfectly flat against a surface. The most common type is the cup point. This type works well because the surface is rounded so that a small surface area is in contact, but it does not have extremely high stress at one point like that of a cone point. Durability studies show that the cup point offers superior resistance to wear while maintaining a strong grip. Knurled cup points offer the added advantage of a locking action (similar to that of a serrated lock washer) that prevents the screws from working loose in high-vibration applications."
On Tue, Aug 29, 2023, 1:57 PM Peter Brooks < peter@...> wrote: I have a dumb question - why are there flat, cup and cone termination varieties of grub screw, when bolts only (as far as I¡¯m aware) come in one style?
I¡¯m guessing they have a specific purpose¡
|
I have a dumb question - why are there flat, cup and cone termination varieties of grub screw, when bolts only (as far as I¡¯m aware) come in one style?
I¡¯m guessing they have a specific purpose¡
|
Hello Jeffrey,
I agree every one of us has only a limited amount of time and non of us knows how much time that is so we make the most it while we are still able.
Dick
--
http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/?OFF-SET-tailstock-center-65965#post105972
?SMALL TURRET TOOL POST PLANS?
?LARGE TURRET TOOL POST PLANS
?MINI-LATHE CARRIAGE LOCK PLANS
?SMALL QC TOOL POST PLANS?
?QUICK CHANGE LATHE TURRET
?MINI LATHE COMPOUND PIVOT MODIFICATION
|
Herman de Leeuw
Pachyderm
OldToolmaker
Carl
Tool247