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Re: Widening an existing hole with a drill bit: how to guarantee concentricity?

 

Best solution I've seen mentioned, and that includes my own suggestions.?

Bill in OKC?


Re: Unimat 3 alignment problem?

 

Hello:

What are we looking at in the photos with the indicators?
Let's see if I understand what you are asking and remember exactly what I did. 8^°

Started with a piece steel recovered from some kitchen thing that went south, (manual juicer?) which at that time I roughed to ?~20mm.
Chucked it, put a center on the far side and cut the 35mm piece on the lathe, faced it and took it down to 19.5mm before turning it around.

Chucked it again checking it was properly aligned/centered with the dial, faced it and I then took 20mm of it to ?12mm.

Thanks for your input.?

Best,

JHM


Re: Widening an existing hole with a drill bit: how to guarantee concentricity?

 

All of this drilling is unlikely to result in the accuracy expected from a collet chuck.
The closest solution that I can figure is to have a lathe with a 4-jaw chuck.? Insert a short piece of 3/8" rod and indicate until you get the best accuracy.? Now take your collet chuck and tighten well onto the 3/8.? Use a boring tool until you get the diameter that you want for the M14 tap.? Then put the collet chuck body in the 4-jaw, indicate, then tap it.
Or you could buy an M14 collet chuck and sell the M12 one to someone here.


Re: Unimat 3 alignment problem?

 

开云体育

Hello Julius:

What are we looking at in the photos with the indicators? Is the shaft in the head stock ground with a consistent diameter? Or is it a shaft that has been turned as it is clamped?

Makes a big difference.

Carl.

On 4/20/2023 4:28 PM, Julius Henry Marx wrote:

Hello:

After a long hiatus while waiting for some tools from Asia, I started working on a part to fix my U3's feed screw problem.

This is the piece:



It is quite small, total length is 35mm.?
Large part is ? 20mm x 13mm and the rest is ?12mm x 20mm.
It will have a brass centre and will replace the OEM bushing once the feed screw receives a new, longer thread at that end as well as a new handwheel.

But I digress ...

I used to think I had my U3 properly/reasonably aligned.
After a rather long process and using thin shims, I eventually managed to achieve this result:



But I have run into a problem:



The distance between the points where the readings were taken is ~ 20/21mm.
And as you can see, the difference between them is almost 0.08 mm, with the larger diameter at the end.

Tomorrow I'm off to get a 180mm piece of precision ground/hardened 20mm steel rod and then see about finding someone to make the centers for me.
Can't do that on the U3.

That will/may put an end to any doubts wrt the U3 alignment.

In the meanwhile, I'd appreciate any comments the forum could offer with respect to this.

Thanks in advance.

Best,

JHM


Re: Widening an existing hole with a drill bit: how to guarantee concentricity?

 

开云体育

Hello All:

After you mount the chuck to the spindle the collet taper should be ground true.

Carl.

On 4/20/2023 2:19 PM, james Pineda via groups.io wrote:

Hi,
I would second the boring option, if you want any hope of achieving any sort of concentricity.? If I understand you, you want to take a 12mm mount ER16 collet chuck, and convert it to a 14mm mount, yes?? And to be able to use it as originally designed, or at use it and maintain the tolerances you were able to achieve??

Using a drill press for this job seems an exercise in frustration. As pointed out by others, neither the drill press nor drills are designed for this type of work.?

I'm sure there are other ways to do this, but here's a couple of suggestions, all of which involve mounting the ER16 chuck and collet and performing a boring operation

You could make bore and tap a rod and mount that onto the headstock spindle. Turn to diameter with a shoulder. If your headstock is properly aligned, you should have a concentric rod/cylinder to mount the ER16 collet/chuck to. Then bore.

Or, a la Joe Pie on youtube - make a bushing to hold a precision ground rod?



Or, you could just buy a new chuck collet with the 14mm threads...because you still have to thread it.

hope this helps

james



On Thursday, April 20, 2023 at 08:57:12 AM PDT, Bill in OKC too via groups.io <wmrmeyers@...> wrote:


Steve pointed out to me that not all of my messages are going to the group, and he thought at least this one should, so here it is!

Bill in OKC

William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)

Aphorisms to live by:
Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.?
SEMPER GUMBY!
Improvise, Adapt, and Overcome.
Physics doesn't care about your schedule.
The only reason I know anything is because I've done it wrong enough times to START to know better.
Expect in one hand, expectorate in the other. See which one gets full first.



----- Forwarded Message -----
From: William R. Meyers <wmrmeyers@...>
To: Steve Johnson <steve@...>
Sent: Thursday, April 20, 2023 at 10:23:25 AM CDT
Subject: Re: [Unimat] Widening an existing hole with a drill bit: how to guarantee concentricity?

I have been known to make mistakes about what the OP was looking for, so I went back and looked at the original message. He has a chuck with a pre-drilled hole. I'm guessing that he didn't drill it, so doesn't have the drill. Besides, depending on the the drill, the setup, and how tight the chuck was tightened can all affect how big a hole a drill bit drills when it's used, so getting a accurate hole would be a crap-shoot. Sets of adjustable reamers are relatively cheap, so OP could ream the hole to size, Still be better done in his lathe, which he says is not all together right now...

Maybe we need to find someone near him who can help him out! :)?

Bill in OKC

William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)

Aphorisms to live by:
Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.?
SEMPER GUMBY!
Improvise, Adapt, and Overcome.
Physics doesn't care about your schedule.
The only reason I know anything is because I've done it wrong enough times to START to know better.
Expect in one hand, expectorate in the other. See which one gets full first.



On Thursday, April 20, 2023 at 10:06:42 AM CDT, Steve Johnson <steve@...> wrote:


Good point Bill.

Still, providing the M12 hole had never been tapped, use the original bit for centering and bore with the new tap drill size.?

On Apr 20, 2023, at 9:03 AM, Bill in OKC too via <wmrmeyers@...> wrote:

Are you sure about that? The tap drill for an M12x1 tap is 11mm. That is what I used making the collet chuck and faceplate that I worked on. Both fit the Unimat SL spindle. See the Metric fine thread chart here:??I am a bit math-challenged, but that should make the minor diameter 11mm or perhaps a bit more. If it were M12x1.5 or M12x1.75 you'd be closer, but probably not enough to get good concentricity.?

Bill in OKC

William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)

Aphorisms to live by:
Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.?
SEMPER GUMBY!
Improvise, Adapt, and Overcome.
Physics doesn't care about your schedule.
The only reason I know anything is because I've done it wrong enough times to START to know better.
Expect in one hand, expectorate in the other. See which one gets full first.



On Thursday, April 20, 2023 at 09:54:10 AM CDT, Elliot Nesterman <elliot@...> wrote:


Without a milling machine or a lathe, achieving perfect axial alignment
will be difficult if not impossible. You can get close, or even perfect
if you're lucky, with a drill press. Drilling by hand you will ruin the
collet chuck.
Drills are not precision instruments. They like to wander, even once
they're in the bore. Guiding a drill by hand to achieve perfect
alignment of any sort is not possible, at least not to machinists'
tolerances.

The minor diameter of M12 is 10.106mm. This is the size of pin you would
need to set the alignment with the drill's quill. A 10mm pin will still
allow 0.1mm, 0.004", of slop. And it's likely that the minor diameter of
the chuck is a bit larger, to ease threading on a spindle nose.
Also, the drill bit should be as short as possible. Drills flex. Using a
screw machine bit (stubby bit) will help.
And, of course, you'll need to find a way to fixture the collet so it is
immobile once it's aligned and on the drill press table. The usual kind
of drill press vice does not hold round objects in a vertical
orientation very well.

Still, as you can find M14x1 collet chucks on Amazon fairly
inexpensively, you won't be out much if the enlarging doesn't work out.

Best of luck.

--
Elliot Nesterman
elliot@...


"The finest jewel cannot disguise a flawed character."


Re: Rustoleum Green Hammered

 

Stemple's Black 3.0!

On Thursday, April 20, 2023 at 08:33:35 AM PDT, Mike <mfuller2k@...> wrote:


Black as night, or black as coal?


Re: Slitting on a Unimat SL? #db200

 

Ditto, back when Penn & Teller's (sp?) book came out; never tried 220, though.

-Dave

On Thursday, April 20, 2023 at 05:37:29 AM PDT, Carl <carl.blum@...> wrote:


I've plugged pickles in to 120v and 220v. Try it!

On 4/20/2023 4:40 AM, Jeff R. Allen wrote:
I enjoyed one experienced machinist's explanation: It's all about the hardness, get them in the right order and anything cuts anything:

Diamond cuts carbide
Carbide cuts tool steel
Tool steel cuts metals
Metal cuts plastic
Plastic cuts potatoes!

Anyone tried milling food on their Unimat? :)

Jeff

On Thu, Apr 20, 2023, 06:52 Dave Seiter <d.seiter@...> wrote:

I don't see why not; in the distant past I've used carbide-tipped blades for wood on my table saw to cut aluminum.

-Dave

On Wednesday, April 19, 2023 at 10:58:14 AM PDT, McKee, Don {Quaker} <donmckee@...> wrote:


I've always wondered if one of the small carbide tipped trim saw blades, from a Big Box Store, could be used as a slitting saw blade in non-ferrous metals?? Some of these blades leave a fairly thin kerf.? Alright, maybe NOT on a Unimat, but something a little heftier?

I've seen several you-tubers use standard carbide router bits to mill non-ferrous metals, even some mild steel using light cuts.? (If it's on the Interwebb it's gotta be good - right?)? Other than the fact that the blades would be 3"-4" of whirling-whizzing death, why wouldn't it work?? Even a small slitting saw will do plenty of personal damage if you get careless.

Don


Re: Slitting on a Unimat SL? #db200

 

That sounds so San Francisco.


On Thu, Apr 20, 2023 at 10:29?AM McKee, Don {Quaker} <donmckee@...> wrote:
"I've plugged pickles in to 120v and 220v. Try it!"

Carl, don't be ridiculous...? A pickle wouldn't fit in the socket.


Re: Slitting on a Unimat SL? #db200

 

I use carbide tipped saw blades (7-1/4 and 10") to cut aluminum all the time - especially things like 80-20 extrusions and 6061 plate


Unimat 3 alignment problem?

 

Hello:

After a long hiatus while waiting for some tools from Asia, I started working on a part to fix my U3's feed screw problem.

This is the piece:



It is quite small, total length is 35mm.?
Large part is ? 20mm x 13mm and the rest is ?12mm x 20mm.
It will have a brass centre and will replace the OEM bushing once the feed screw receives a new, longer thread at that end as well as a new handwheel.

But I digress ...

I used to think I had my U3 properly/reasonably aligned.
After a rather long process and using thin shims, I eventually managed to achieve this result:



But I have run into a problem:



The distance between the points where the readings were taken is ~ 20/21mm.
And as you can see, the difference between them is almost 0.08 mm, with the larger diameter at the end.

Tomorrow I'm off to get a 180mm piece of precision ground/hardened 20mm steel rod and then see about finding someone to make the centers for me.
Can't do that on the U3.

That will/may put an end to any doubts wrt the U3 alignment.

In the meanwhile, I'd appreciate any comments the forum could offer with respect to this.

Thanks in advance.

Best,

JHM


Re: Widening an existing hole with a drill bit: how to guarantee concentricity?

 

No guarantees possible, especially with a hand drill. If you have a Unimat-style milling vise with the v-block cutout and a drill-press, it may help. Use your 12mm bit to center the piece and lock it up. A 1/2” bit is around 12.7mm and a new one may get you to 13mm with the spindle play. The 13mm may still be needed, but it’s very dependent on how the drill bit cuts and how much spindle play there is. Keeping minimal space and short bits as mentioned above will also help, but concentricity can only be hoped for. ?Best o’ luck ???

DW


Re: Widening an existing hole with a drill bit: how to guarantee concentricity?

 

开云体育

It’s taken me a long while to learn this, but there are times when it is best to buy rather than make (and this is one of those times). ?You want the run-out on your collet chuck to be as small as possible, and unless you are experienced at working to close tolerances, buy a manufactured M14 collet chuck.? That way you will still have your undamaged M12 collet chuck to use at a later time or to sell or give away. ??

?

As many others have already stated, drilling to enlarge the mounting hole will likely lead to frustration and a ruined part; the opening has to be bored and then carefully tapped (and for that you need a working lathe).? To mount the collet chuck for machining you would probably want to use an independent 4-jaw chuck and center the opening of the collet chuck using a dial test indicator.? ?If you want to do this as a teaching exercise for yourself, you may want to first practice on a piece of steel rod.

?

Best of luck,

?

Jerry F.

?

From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of james Pineda via groups.io
Sent: Thursday, April 20, 2023 11:20 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [Unimat] Widening an existing hole with a drill bit: how to guarantee concentricity?

?

Hi,

I would second the boring option, if you want any hope of achieving any sort of concentricity.? If I understand you, you want to take a 12mm mount ER16 collet chuck, and convert it to a 14mm mount, yes?? And to be able to use it as originally designed, or at use it and maintain the tolerances you were able to achieve??

?

Using a drill press for this job seems an exercise in frustration. As pointed out by others, neither the drill press nor drills are designed for this type of work.?

?

I'm sure there are other ways to do this, but here's a couple of suggestions, all of which involve mounting the ER16 chuck and collet and performing a boring operation

?

You could make bore and tap a rod and mount that onto the headstock spindle. Turn to diameter with a shoulder. If your headstock is properly aligned, you should have a concentric rod/cylinder to mount the ER16 collet/chuck to. Then bore.

?

Or, a la Joe Pie on youtube - make a bushing to hold a precision ground rod?

?

?


Get your parts to run true in a non adjustable chuck. YOU MUST WATCH THIS!

?

Or, you could just buy a new chuck collet with the 14mm threads...because you still have to thread it.

?

hope this helps

?

james

?

?

?

On Thursday, April 20, 2023 at 08:57:12 AM PDT, Bill in OKC too via groups.io <wmrmeyers@...> wrote:

?

?

Steve pointed out to me that not all of my messages are going to the group, and he thought at least this one should, so here it is!

?

Bill in OKC

?

William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)

?

Aphorisms to live by:

Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.?

SEMPER GUMBY!

Improvise, Adapt, and Overcome.
Physics doesn't care about your schedule.
The only reason I know anything is because I've done it wrong enough times to START to know better.

Expect in one hand, expectorate in the other. See which one gets full first.

?

?

?

----- Forwarded Message -----

From: William R. Meyers <wmrmeyers@...>

To: Steve Johnson <steve@...>

Sent: Thursday, April 20, 2023 at 10:23:25 AM CDT

Subject: Re: [Unimat] Widening an existing hole with a drill bit: how to guarantee concentricity?

?

I have been known to make mistakes about what the OP was looking for, so I went back and looked at the original message. He has a chuck with a pre-drilled hole. I'm guessing that he didn't drill it, so doesn't have the drill. Besides, depending on the the drill, the setup, and how tight the chuck was tightened can all affect how big a hole a drill bit drills when it's used, so getting a accurate hole would be a crap-shoot. Sets of adjustable reamers are relatively cheap, so OP could ream the hole to size, Still be better done in his lathe, which he says is not all together right now...

?

Maybe we need to find someone near him who can help him out! :)?

?

Bill in OKC

?

William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)

?

Aphorisms to live by:

Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.?

SEMPER GUMBY!

Improvise, Adapt, and Overcome.
Physics doesn't care about your schedule.
The only reason I know anything is because I've done it wrong enough times to START to know better.

Expect in one hand, expectorate in the other. See which one gets full first.

?

?

?

On Thursday, April 20, 2023 at 10:06:42 AM CDT, Steve Johnson <steve@...> wrote:

?

?

Good point Bill.

?

Still, providing the M12 hole had never been tapped, use the original bit for centering and bore with the new tap drill size.?



On Apr 20, 2023, at 9:03 AM, Bill in OKC too via <wmrmeyers@...> wrote:

?

Are you sure about that? The tap drill for an M12x1 tap is 11mm. That is what I used making the collet chuck and faceplate that I worked on. Both fit the Unimat SL spindle. See the Metric fine thread chart here:??I am a bit math-challenged, but that should make the minor diameter 11mm or perhaps a bit more. If it were M12x1.5 or M12x1.75 you'd be closer, but probably not enough to get good concentricity.?

?

Bill in OKC

?

William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)

?

Aphorisms to live by:

Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.?

SEMPER GUMBY!

Improvise, Adapt, and Overcome.
Physics doesn't care about your schedule.
The only reason I know anything is because I've done it wrong enough times to START to know better.

Expect in one hand, expectorate in the other. See which one gets full first.

?

?

?

On Thursday, April 20, 2023 at 09:54:10 AM CDT, Elliot Nesterman <elliot@...> wrote:

?

?

Without a milling machine or a lathe, achieving perfect axial alignment
will be difficult if not impossible. You can get close, or even perfect
if you're lucky, with a drill press. Drilling by hand you will ruin the
collet chuck.
Drills are not precision instruments. They like to wander, even once
they're in the bore. Guiding a drill by hand to achieve perfect
alignment of any sort is not possible, at least not to machinists'
tolerances.

The minor diameter of M12 is 10.106mm. This is the size of pin you would
need to set the alignment with the drill's quill. A 10mm pin will still
allow 0.1mm, 0.004", of slop. And it's likely that the minor diameter of
the chuck is a bit larger, to ease threading on a spindle nose.
Also, the drill bit should be as short as possible. Drills flex. Using a
screw machine bit (stubby bit) will help.
And, of course, you'll need to find a way to fixture the collet so it is
immobile once it's aligned and on the drill press table. The usual kind
of drill press vice does not hold round objects in a vertical
orientation very well.

Still, as you can find M14x1 collet chucks on Amazon fairly
inexpensively, you won't be out much if the enlarging doesn't work out.

Best of luck.

--
Elliot Nesterman
elliot@...
www.ajoure.net

"The finest jewel cannot disguise a flawed character."

?


Re: Widening an existing hole with a drill bit: how to guarantee concentricity?

 

Hi,
I would second the boring option, if you want any hope of achieving any sort of concentricity.? If I understand you, you want to take a 12mm mount ER16 collet chuck, and convert it to a 14mm mount, yes?? And to be able to use it as originally designed, or at use it and maintain the tolerances you were able to achieve??

Using a drill press for this job seems an exercise in frustration. As pointed out by others, neither the drill press nor drills are designed for this type of work.?

I'm sure there are other ways to do this, but here's a couple of suggestions, all of which involve mounting the ER16 chuck and collet and performing a boring operation

You could make bore and tap a rod and mount that onto the headstock spindle. Turn to diameter with a shoulder. If your headstock is properly aligned, you should have a concentric rod/cylinder to mount the ER16 collet/chuck to. Then bore.

Or, a la Joe Pie on youtube - make a bushing to hold a precision ground rod?



Or, you could just buy a new chuck collet with the 14mm threads...because you still have to thread it.

hope this helps

james



On Thursday, April 20, 2023 at 08:57:12 AM PDT, Bill in OKC too via groups.io <wmrmeyers@...> wrote:


Steve pointed out to me that not all of my messages are going to the group, and he thought at least this one should, so here it is!

Bill in OKC

William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)

Aphorisms to live by:
Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.?
SEMPER GUMBY!
Improvise, Adapt, and Overcome.
Physics doesn't care about your schedule.
The only reason I know anything is because I've done it wrong enough times to START to know better.
Expect in one hand, expectorate in the other. See which one gets full first.



----- Forwarded Message -----

From: William R. Meyers <wmrmeyers@...>
To: Steve Johnson <steve@...>
Sent: Thursday, April 20, 2023 at 10:23:25 AM CDT
Subject: Re: [Unimat] Widening an existing hole with a drill bit: how to guarantee concentricity?

I have been known to make mistakes about what the OP was looking for, so I went back and looked at the original message. He has a chuck with a pre-drilled hole. I'm guessing that he didn't drill it, so doesn't have the drill. Besides, depending on the the drill, the setup, and how tight the chuck was tightened can all affect how big a hole a drill bit drills when it's used, so getting a accurate hole would be a crap-shoot. Sets of adjustable reamers are relatively cheap, so OP could ream the hole to size, Still be better done in his lathe, which he says is not all together right now...

Maybe we need to find someone near him who can help him out! :)?

Bill in OKC

William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)

Aphorisms to live by:
Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.?
SEMPER GUMBY!
Improvise, Adapt, and Overcome.
Physics doesn't care about your schedule.
The only reason I know anything is because I've done it wrong enough times to START to know better.
Expect in one hand, expectorate in the other. See which one gets full first.



On Thursday, April 20, 2023 at 10:06:42 AM CDT, Steve Johnson <steve@...> wrote:


Good point Bill.

Still, providing the M12 hole had never been tapped, use the original bit for centering and bore with the new tap drill size.?

On Apr 20, 2023, at 9:03 AM, Bill in OKC too via <wmrmeyers@...> wrote:

Are you sure about that? The tap drill for an M12x1 tap is 11mm. That is what I used making the collet chuck and faceplate that I worked on. Both fit the Unimat SL spindle. See the Metric fine thread chart here:??I am a bit math-challenged, but that should make the minor diameter 11mm or perhaps a bit more. If it were M12x1.5 or M12x1.75 you'd be closer, but probably not enough to get good concentricity.?

Bill in OKC

William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)

Aphorisms to live by:
Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.?
SEMPER GUMBY!
Improvise, Adapt, and Overcome.
Physics doesn't care about your schedule.
The only reason I know anything is because I've done it wrong enough times to START to know better.
Expect in one hand, expectorate in the other. See which one gets full first.



On Thursday, April 20, 2023 at 09:54:10 AM CDT, Elliot Nesterman <elliot@...> wrote:


Without a milling machine or a lathe, achieving perfect axial alignment
will be difficult if not impossible. You can get close, or even perfect
if you're lucky, with a drill press. Drilling by hand you will ruin the
collet chuck.
Drills are not precision instruments. They like to wander, even once
they're in the bore. Guiding a drill by hand to achieve perfect
alignment of any sort is not possible, at least not to machinists'
tolerances.

The minor diameter of M12 is 10.106mm. This is the size of pin you would
need to set the alignment with the drill's quill. A 10mm pin will still
allow 0.1mm, 0.004", of slop. And it's likely that the minor diameter of
the chuck is a bit larger, to ease threading on a spindle nose.
Also, the drill bit should be as short as possible. Drills flex. Using a
screw machine bit (stubby bit) will help.
And, of course, you'll need to find a way to fixture the collet so it is
immobile once it's aligned and on the drill press table. The usual kind
of drill press vice does not hold round objects in a vertical
orientation very well.

Still, as you can find M14x1 collet chucks on Amazon fairly
inexpensively, you won't be out much if the enlarging doesn't work out.

Best of luck.

--
Elliot Nesterman
elliot@...
www.ajoure.net

"The finest jewel cannot disguise a flawed character."


Re: Slitting on a Unimat SL? #db200

 

"I've plugged pickles in to 120v and 220v. Try it!"

Carl, don't be ridiculous...? A pickle wouldn't fit in the socket.


Re: Dead Center stuck in tailstock ram.

 

Grip the center with vise grip pliers. Tap the pliers with small hammer. Center should pop right out. ?You can also use small flairing tool to grip center for same process.?

Good luck.
--
Steve Jaynes
Unimat owner/collector since 1995, all generations.


Re: Dead Center stuck in tailstock ram.

 

If so, you might be able to fit a metric grease zerk to it, and pump the tailstock ram full of grease, which would push the center out... Maybe. ;) It could get messy, and possibly shoot it and grease across the room.


Fw: [Unimat] Widening an existing hole with a drill bit: how to guarantee concentricity?

 

Steve pointed out to me that not all of my messages are going to the group, and he thought at least this one should, so here it is!

Bill in OKC

William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)

Aphorisms to live by:
Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.?
SEMPER GUMBY!
Improvise, Adapt, and Overcome.
Physics doesn't care about your schedule.
The only reason I know anything is because I've done it wrong enough times to START to know better.
Expect in one hand, expectorate in the other. See which one gets full first.



----- Forwarded Message -----

From: William R. Meyers <wmrmeyers@...>
To: Steve Johnson <steve@...>
Sent: Thursday, April 20, 2023 at 10:23:25 AM CDT
Subject: Re: [Unimat] Widening an existing hole with a drill bit: how to guarantee concentricity?

I have been known to make mistakes about what the OP was looking for, so I went back and looked at the original message. He has a chuck with a pre-drilled hole. I'm guessing that he didn't drill it, so doesn't have the drill. Besides, depending on the the drill, the setup, and how tight the chuck was tightened can all affect how big a hole a drill bit drills when it's used, so getting a accurate hole would be a crap-shoot. Sets of adjustable reamers are relatively cheap, so OP could ream the hole to size, Still be better done in his lathe, which he says is not all together right now...

Maybe we need to find someone near him who can help him out! :)?

Bill in OKC

William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)

Aphorisms to live by:
Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.?
SEMPER GUMBY!
Improvise, Adapt, and Overcome.
Physics doesn't care about your schedule.
The only reason I know anything is because I've done it wrong enough times to START to know better.
Expect in one hand, expectorate in the other. See which one gets full first.



On Thursday, April 20, 2023 at 10:06:42 AM CDT, Steve Johnson <steve@...> wrote:


Good point Bill.

Still, providing the M12 hole had never been tapped, use the original bit for centering and bore with the new tap drill size.?

On Apr 20, 2023, at 9:03 AM, Bill in OKC too via <wmrmeyers@...> wrote:

Are you sure about that? The tap drill for an M12x1 tap is 11mm. That is what I used making the collet chuck and faceplate that I worked on. Both fit the Unimat SL spindle. See the Metric fine thread chart here:??I am a bit math-challenged, but that should make the minor diameter 11mm or perhaps a bit more. If it were M12x1.5 or M12x1.75 you'd be closer, but probably not enough to get good concentricity.?

Bill in OKC

William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)

Aphorisms to live by:
Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.?
SEMPER GUMBY!
Improvise, Adapt, and Overcome.
Physics doesn't care about your schedule.
The only reason I know anything is because I've done it wrong enough times to START to know better.
Expect in one hand, expectorate in the other. See which one gets full first.



On Thursday, April 20, 2023 at 09:54:10 AM CDT, Elliot Nesterman <elliot@...> wrote:


Without a milling machine or a lathe, achieving perfect axial alignment
will be difficult if not impossible. You can get close, or even perfect
if you're lucky, with a drill press. Drilling by hand you will ruin the
collet chuck.
Drills are not precision instruments. They like to wander, even once
they're in the bore. Guiding a drill by hand to achieve perfect
alignment of any sort is not possible, at least not to machinists'
tolerances.

The minor diameter of M12 is 10.106mm. This is the size of pin you would
need to set the alignment with the drill's quill. A 10mm pin will still
allow 0.1mm, 0.004", of slop. And it's likely that the minor diameter of
the chuck is a bit larger, to ease threading on a spindle nose.
Also, the drill bit should be as short as possible. Drills flex. Using a
screw machine bit (stubby bit) will help.
And, of course, you'll need to find a way to fixture the collet so it is
immobile once it's aligned and on the drill press table. The usual kind
of drill press vice does not hold round objects in a vertical
orientation very well.

Still, as you can find M14x1 collet chucks on Amazon fairly
inexpensively, you won't be out much if the enlarging doesn't work out.

Best of luck.

--
Elliot Nesterman
elliot@...
www.ajoure.net

"The finest jewel cannot disguise a flawed character."


Re: Rustoleum Green Hammered

 

Black as night, or black as coal?


Re: Widening an existing hole with a drill bit: how to guarantee concentricity?

 

开云体育

Hi Gang:

The best option would be to find a lathe that you can use.

A hand drill option would be to make a step reamer. It would have a guide bushing the diameter of the existing hole followed by the M14 tap drill diameter ( M14 - pitch 1 = ?13 ).

Then try to tap it square. It would really be best to find a lathe.

Carl.

On 4/20/2023 11:06 AM, Steve Johnson wrote:

Good point Bill.

Still, providing the M12 hole had never been tapped, use the original bit for centering and bore with the new tap drill size.?

On Apr 20, 2023, at 9:03 AM, Bill in OKC too via <wmrmeyers@...> wrote:

Are you sure about that? The tap drill for an M12x1 tap is 11mm. That is what I used making the collet chuck and faceplate that I worked on. Both fit the Unimat SL spindle. See the Metric fine thread chart here:??I am a bit math-challenged, but that should make the minor diameter 11mm or perhaps a bit more. If it were M12x1.5 or M12x1.75 you'd be closer, but probably not enough to get good concentricity.?

Bill in OKC

William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)

Aphorisms to live by:
Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.?
SEMPER GUMBY!
Improvise, Adapt, and Overcome.
Physics doesn't care about your schedule.
The only reason I know anything is because I've done it wrong enough times to START to know better.
Expect in one hand, expectorate in the other. See which one gets full first.



On Thursday, April 20, 2023 at 09:54:10 AM CDT, Elliot Nesterman <elliot@...> wrote:


Without a milling machine or a lathe, achieving perfect axial alignment
will be difficult if not impossible. You can get close, or even perfect
if you're lucky, with a drill press. Drilling by hand you will ruin the
collet chuck.
Drills are not precision instruments. They like to wander, even once
they're in the bore. Guiding a drill by hand to achieve perfect
alignment of any sort is not possible, at least not to machinists'
tolerances.

The minor diameter of M12 is 10.106mm. This is the size of pin you would
need to set the alignment with the drill's quill. A 10mm pin will still
allow 0.1mm, 0.004", of slop. And it's likely that the minor diameter of
the chuck is a bit larger, to ease threading on a spindle nose.
Also, the drill bit should be as short as possible. Drills flex. Using a
screw machine bit (stubby bit) will help.
And, of course, you'll need to find a way to fixture the collet so it is
immobile once it's aligned and on the drill press table. The usual kind
of drill press vice does not hold round objects in a vertical
orientation very well.

Still, as you can find M14x1 collet chucks on Amazon fairly
inexpensively, you won't be out much if the enlarging doesn't work out.

Best of luck.

--
Elliot Nesterman
elliot@...


"The finest jewel cannot disguise a flawed character."


Re: Widening an existing hole with a drill bit: how to guarantee concentricity?

 

开云体育

Good point Bill.

Still, providing the M12 hole had never been tapped, use the original bit for centering and bore with the new tap drill size.?

On Apr 20, 2023, at 9:03 AM, Bill in OKC too via <wmrmeyers@...> wrote:

Are you sure about that? The tap drill for an M12x1 tap is 11mm. That is what I used making the collet chuck and faceplate that I worked on. Both fit the Unimat SL spindle. See the Metric fine thread chart here:??I am a bit math-challenged, but that should make the minor diameter 11mm or perhaps a bit more. If it were M12x1.5 or M12x1.75 you'd be closer, but probably not enough to get good concentricity.?

Bill in OKC

William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)

Aphorisms to live by:
Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.?
SEMPER GUMBY!
Improvise, Adapt, and Overcome.
Physics doesn't care about your schedule.
The only reason I know anything is because I've done it wrong enough times to START to know better.
Expect in one hand, expectorate in the other. See which one gets full first.



On Thursday, April 20, 2023 at 09:54:10 AM CDT, Elliot Nesterman <elliot@...> wrote:


Without a milling machine or a lathe, achieving perfect axial alignment
will be difficult if not impossible. You can get close, or even perfect
if you're lucky, with a drill press. Drilling by hand you will ruin the
collet chuck.
Drills are not precision instruments. They like to wander, even once
they're in the bore. Guiding a drill by hand to achieve perfect
alignment of any sort is not possible, at least not to machinists'
tolerances.

The minor diameter of M12 is 10.106mm. This is the size of pin you would
need to set the alignment with the drill's quill. A 10mm pin will still
allow 0.1mm, 0.004", of slop. And it's likely that the minor diameter of
the chuck is a bit larger, to ease threading on a spindle nose.
Also, the drill bit should be as short as possible. Drills flex. Using a
screw machine bit (stubby bit) will help.
And, of course, you'll need to find a way to fixture the collet so it is
immobile once it's aligned and on the drill press table. The usual kind
of drill press vice does not hold round objects in a vertical
orientation very well.

Still, as you can find M14x1 collet chucks on Amazon fairly
inexpensively, you won't be out much if the enlarging doesn't work out.

Best of luck.

--
Elliot Nesterman
elliot@...
www.ajoure.net

"The finest jewel cannot disguise a flawed character."