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Go to Ebay advanced, search for "unimat" in sold, sort maybe with highest price and go down.? Whatever seems to be the selling price range is the "Value".? What changes hands privately, garage sales, Craigslist, and any other sales, are not the public value.? Think of Ebay as the stock market, and there is a market price.
As far as what you showed, it is a rusty piece of junk in my opinion.? I do not understand why prices are bid high, but ...

Hey guys, Have any of you noticed the Unimat 3 Combined Lathe and Drill on E-Bay ? Its in need of some TLC / restoration but overall looks like a reasonable small lathe ! I'm wondering what you all think its worth ? Guesses on what its final sale value may be ? I won't be bidding as its already over my budget but just trying to get a grip on the Unimat market. Seems a bit overpriced IMHO for what you get :/ Unsure if posting links is allowed but I hope so. Cheers and Kind Regards, Paul

I have had both, the SL1000 and the DB200.
They are both good,very versatile small machine tools. I have preference for the DB200 because being cast iron, it has more mass.

They don't ship to the States.

I will check with a local Automotive parts shop that mixes paint to see if they can mix a Hammertone, if not then it's gonna be grey.

The DB/SL is a very handy and adaptable machine, giving you more than just a lathe. The versatility is built in, not added as an afterthought. Then you can re-configure it to do many other jobs. But, it lacks rigidity and capacity when turning.

The U3 is better for turning, but only as versatile as a conventional lathe. The U4 is just a variant on the U3 - not significantly different in machining capacity or performance.

The PC is not much use today, as the electronics and computer requirements are very obsolete, but the Basic looks to be a solid machine, and has places provided to attach stepper motors and other components for NC use. I'm hoping that, with modern stepper motors it can become a useful NC machine.

In all cases a weak point is the motor - better replaced by modern permanent magnet types which pack more power into a smaller space with less heat and noise. There are plenty around for the DB/SL and U3, but for the PC/Basic it is more difficult due to the small size of the original motor. It would also be necessary to replace the speed control electronics, but that would be no bad thing.

So it's back to horses for courses. If you only have space for one machine get a DB/SL. If you only want turning, get a U3. If you want a more complicated life get a Basic, or a PC, strip off the stepper motors and find a better motor for it.

I have been in, or am in the middle of, all three situations.

I was playing with the numbers a while ago and came to the conclusion that driving with a 24t gear on the spindle would open up lots of possibilities to extend the range of metric threads. Can't remember the details now. Also with minor mods to the change wheel plate shown it could handle compound gears, which would also open up the possibilities. Having said that, I bought a gear plate for my U3 and I've never use it.

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Good afternoon,

I repainted my SL with Emco Green paint from Paragon Paints in the UK. It is a pleasant colour and a very serviceable paint, easy to apply

Since I did this they have introduced several hammered paint finishes which may be of interest.






David?

Never mind the stock No. I found it. Out of stock everywhere except possibly one place and they will only sell a case. ?I don't need 6 cans. Must use the Sam pigment base as Verde Green.

? Thanks though. The stock No. is?

264664?

That would be fine! ?Do you have the stock number off if the label? ? I do t know of that is available here in the states, it’s not coming up in my searches. ?

It looks similar to what Sherline sells for thread cutting:
https://www.sherline.com/product/3100-thread-cutting-attachment/#description

Can't disagree with that John. Although outside the USA they are a little pricey. For the 8" in Australia packages start from $918 to $1381 plus $230 postage.?

Oops thats to the centre of the threaded hole.

Keith also the M16 threaded hole on the top left of the mounting plate is 15 mm from the top and 15mm from the left of the plate on the plan.

Works for me

Attached is a photo of a Hammered Rosemary can taken in sunlight.