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Re: Three jaws chuck tightening
Giving your chuck a good cleaning is a great idea! It absolutely cannot hurt if you do it right. One way you could do it, which may or may not be exactly right, is to thoroughly hose it down, inside and out, with WD-40 or something similar. Taking it completely apart and do the hosing down with WD-40 or equivalent is a better way to do it. If you find the internals rusty, even if you didn't see any rust on the outside, complete disassembly and de-rusting is where you need to go. You can use EvapoRust, PB-Blaster, or equivalents, electrolytic rust removal, scrubbing with wire brushes or Scotch-brite pads, vinegar, molasses, Naval Jelly, phosphoric acid, and God alone knows how many other ways there are to remove rust. Clean it, get it thoroughly dry, and oil the pieces with a light machine oil. I have used hydrochloric (aka Muriatic) acid and acetic acid to remove rust, but don't recommend them anymore. Vinegar is acetic acid lots of water, and not nearly as hazardous as the purer acid is.? WD-40 penetrating oil is NOT a good rust preventative long term, though it is excellent for a short time. Acetone, mineral spirits, Dawn and similar degreasing dish detergents can also be excellent for removing the remnants of the WD-40 after the solvent evaporates. WD-40 will remove grease and oil that has turned to varnish. Electrolytic rust removal will remove rust, paint, and if you connect the anode and cathode incorrectly, the iron itself. Be careful! Also don't ask how I know. ;) Chemists used to (may still do) rinse glassware with distilled water, alcohol, and ether. They needed absolutely no traces of the wash water left on the glassware.? Each was soluble in the next, so you wound up with all of them evaporating off with no residue left. You can get away with just the distilled water and alcohol for our purposes. ;) Rinse with distilled water, then with high-proof alcohol. I use 91% Isopropyl alcohol for that purpose. It won't remove oil, but the acetone or whatever should have already done that before you rinsed it.? Then, again, oil the parts! :) It should work as well for you as is possible then. If you leave too much oil on the chuck, don't be surprised to get a strip of oil spattered up your shirt, face, and glasses. You want a thin film so the parts slide well, without enough to fly off the chuck once it spins up.? HTH! Bill in OKC? William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.) Aphorisms to live by: Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.? SEMPER GUMBY! Physics doesn't care about your schedule. The only reason I know anything is because I've done it wrong enough times to START to know better
On Monday, February 27, 2023 at 01:59:25 PM CST, Jeff R. Allen <jra@...> wrote:
Hi guys,
I am a brand new Unimat SL user. I was working through the first example in the manual, cutting a short piece of aluminum various different ways. I got my stock generally running true in the three jaw chuck and tightened it down using the handle of the chuck key and another convenient piece of metal in my kit to lever against each other. But when I went to face it off, I found that the force from the cutter was too much and it moved in the chuck. (I was facing off from outside in, is that right?) I feel like I'm missing something about how to operate the three jaw chuck: the mini one from the Unimat does not work like the bigger ones I see on videos. I feel like my chuck is pretty sticky (though not enough to prevent it working), I'm thinking of giving it a cleaning. Any hints on that? Jeff |
Re: Does anyone make new thread guides for the db /sl?
Jeff R. Allen
I have a bit of expertise with OpenSCAD, I'd be willing to try modeling the thread guide for you, if you guys can give me a spec for what the inner dimensions and the dimensions of the follower should be. Jeff On Mon, Feb 27, 2023, 21:05 Peter ashby via <aescinga.pgen=[email protected]> wrote:
|
Re: Does anyone make new thread guides for the db /sl?
I would imagine in this modern world that you could 3d print new guides at whatever pitch you required.
------ Original Message ------
From "John Entwistle via groups.io" <jentwistle3@...>
Date 27/02/2023 03:55:31
Subject [Unimat] Does anyone make new thread guides for the db /sl? I need to cut internal 3/4 x 27 and 1 x 27 threads for an automobile dashboard I¡¯m restoring. Want to do it myself on my sl, if possible. There are no 27 tpi guides for sale on ebay (did they even make one). Does anyone make new guides? |
Three jaws chuck tightening
Jeff R. Allen
Hi guys, I am a brand new Unimat SL user. I was working through the first example in the manual, cutting a short piece of aluminum various different ways. I got my stock generally running true in the three jaw chuck and tightened it down using the handle of the chuck key and another convenient piece of metal in my kit to lever against each other. But when I went to face it off, I found that the force from the cutter was too much and it moved in the chuck. (I was facing off from outside in, is that right?) I feel like I'm missing something about how to operate the three jaw chuck: the mini one from the Unimat does not work like the bigger ones I see on videos. I feel like my chuck is pretty sticky (though not enough to prevent it working), I'm thinking of giving it a cleaning. Any hints on that? Jeff |
Re: Unimat 3 versions
Hi Andrey,
?
as far as I know, there aren?t difference on the Unimats 3, other than those concerning the motor installed, depending on the destination market. Thus, there are ones with Gefeg Ug-7750 for 110-120 / 60Hz and others for 220-240 / 50 Hz.
Unimats 4 had a whole different motor with no particular model name, a larger motor mounting plate and pulleys cover, different size pulleys and belts.?
On U4, the lathe bed has a different design for the drilling / milling attachment, and were provided with a larger 3-jaws chuck. I don?t recall if the 4-jaws chuck has also some difference in size.
By the way, the drilling / milling attachment for the U3 is not compatible with the U4, neither the other way around, since there are no fixing holes on this accessory column, to my surprise.
?Best regards, Ricardo |
Re: Unimat Motor
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýHi Gang: It is a brush motor, to reverse swap either the brush or field wires. To
reverse shaded pole motors, turn the field over. Carl. On 2/26/2023 1:14 AM, Neil Morrison
wrote:
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Re: Unimat Motor
Kevin Groenke @ PersonMakeObject
Old Toolmaker Sir,? The ?290 one that John was referring to was most likely the one that clankennedy2004 shared. This discussion is getting a bit unseemly and not something I prefer to receive in my email.? Could we stick to Unimats and what we make with them please? Thanks and make on!? -kevin On Sun, Feb 26, 2023, 7:39 AM OldToolmaker via <old_toolmaker=[email protected]> wrote:
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Re: Unimat Motor
Price: US $34.50 - Free Shipping. New. 90 watts.? It probably runs the wrong way for a Unimat and there could be issues with mounting and with the pulley. Neil ----- On Sat, Feb 25, 2023 at 6:22 AM OldToolmaker via <old_toolmaker=[email protected]> wrote: $180 plus shipping via USPS method of buyers choice. |
Re: Unimat Motor
Likewise you can get Entire lathes including motor for @ ?290 !!!
On Saturday, 25 February 2023 at 16:16:18 GMT, OldToolmaker via groups.io <old_toolmaker@...> wrote:
Some have sold on EBay for $199.00 plus shipping here in the US. So the price is not out of line! If no takers I will just keep it. It has value as a collectible. |
Re: Unimat Motor
LOL, Too rich for me buddy. Besides im in the UK. Little motor liek thats not worth much over ?20 or ? $30-$40. NVM im not interested !
On Saturday, 25 February 2023 at 14:22:25 GMT, OldToolmaker via groups.io <old_toolmaker@...> wrote:
$180 plus shipping via USPS method of buyers choice. Dick |
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