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Re: Found this photo - anyone has more information about it?

 

Hi Julius,

That nut is available from Arc Euro in the UK as a spare for the Sieg C0 lathe:


I have used those in the past but now make my own from 1/2" bronze bar (squared off to 10mm).?? That needs a standard M4 tap and a M8x1LH tap of course!
Rgrds,?? Richard.
Re: Added album New to me SL1000 #photo-notice

 

I bought one of these for my Unimat:??they don't seem to have the one I got, which came with an MT2 arbor, but it's a nice little 4-jaw chuck. Price has gone up by about $15 since I got mine early last year.?

Well heck!??this looks exactly like the one I got. ;)? Cheaper than just the 4-jaw chuck alone, too!.

Bill in OKC

William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)

Aphorisms to live by:
Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.?
SEMPER GUMBY!
Improvise, Adapt, and Overcome.
Physics doesn't care about your schedule.
The only reason I know anything is because I've done it wrong enough times to START to know better



On Sunday, January 8, 2023 at 08:34:59 AM CST, Kit Maira <kit.maira@...> wrote:


I would like to find a drill chuck to fit this. I have a drawer full of chucks, none of which fit it. I see a few milling attachments on eBay. A 4 jaw chuck would be nice. When I bought my Craftsman lathe I spent a lot of time and dough chasing down all the accessories for it. Looks like I¡¯m going to be repeating that with the Unimat.?

I have been going through the copious amount of literature that is on this site, and the Facebook group as well. I¡¯m impressed by the versatility of this little machine. Always wanted a sensitive drill press for one, now it looks I have one.?

I was looking at the threading feature, it looks like that would require a lot of expense to get multiple threading capability, and I doubt that would be easy to find.?

I¡¯m excited to clean this up, and make a few bits.
Re: Added album New to me SL1000 #photo-notice

 

I would like to find a drill chuck to fit this. I have a drawer full of chucks, none of which fit it. I see a few milling attachments on eBay. A 4 jaw chuck would be nice. When I bought my Craftsman lathe I spent a lot of time and dough chasing down all the accessories for it. Looks like I¡¯m going to be repeating that with the Unimat.?

I have been going through the copious amount of literature that is on this site, and the Facebook group as well. I¡¯m impressed by the versatility of this little machine. Always wanted a sensitive drill press for one, now it looks I have one.?

I was looking at the threading feature, it looks like that would require a lot of expense to get multiple threading capability, and I doubt that would be easy to find.?

I¡¯m excited to clean this up, and make a few bits.
Re: Added album New to me SL1000 #photo-notice

 

Well you have all the basics, plus the slow feed attachment, which is a bit rare these days. With the other machines you have you should be able to make additional tooling or replicate original parts. I have found the Unimats to be very handy, and easy to use, even if the working size is limited. On the other hand with the high speeds I found it fine for small components. Working with collets made precision working easier, and was better for hand work, without those whirling chuck jaws waiting to skin your knuckles. I am trying to get around to making a copy of the spindle nose onto a Morse taper blank to fit into a bigger lathe, so I can make fixtures with good concentricity but larger sizes than are possible on the Unimat itself. If you decide to do this then the first tools you need are an M12 ¡Á 1 tap, 11 mm drill, and a 12.00 mm reamer or D bit to cut the thread and recess for anything to fit the spindle. These can be made on the SL, or roughed out on a bigger lathe and then finishing cuts taken on the SL to give good repeatable concentricity. I got repeatable concentricity to about 0.0005" with some fixtures I made.

These machines are highly adaptable, which is why so many of them are still in use.
Re: Found this photo - anyone has more information about it?

 

Hello:

Sorry to revive an old thread ...

After getting my set of qctp+holders finished, I am now looking to see about fixing the backlash issues the Unimat 3 cross slide has.
From what I seen, it is very tricky business to get involved in as there is very little/no room to do much about it and on top of that the slide nut itself is very small:



Not to mention the terrible hassle you are in should you lose the damn thingy: just in case, I wrote the people at Emco last June equiring about the possibility of getting a replacement part but was promptly ignored.

It seems the very same part is used in the Unimat Basic, so it may be available somewhere.

But I digress ...

As we know, the hole in the nut is threaded 8.0x1 LH.

The thing (part no. A3A 050 040) is basically a ~10mm x 10mm x 10mm cube, with the threaded cylinder to hold it in place from above with a M4x8 countersunk screw (part no. ZSR 65 0408) being ? ~6.0mm x 5.0mm high .?

... crossslide must be milled a slot of the size of the nut for correct position and height.
slot depht about 1,3mm
Hoping not to impose, I was wondering if you'd be kind enough to post a photo of what you have done to the cross slide so I could get an idea of what I was getting into.? ie: the slot you milled into the cross slide and any details you think pertinent.

Thanks in advance.

Best,

JHM
Re: Added album New to me SL1000 #photo-notice

 

Only what you see. I got it in an antique shop that was closing. Everything was half off. I don¡¯t know whether $350 was a good deal, it was an impulse purchase. I think I¡¯ll need to disassemble and clean it up. There is a bit of surface rust. In addition to this little lathe I have a 12¡± Craftsman lathe, a South Bend 405 and a Lewis Machine mill that I am working on. I¡¯m curious to learn what the Unimat is capable of. I¡¯m in search of projects to keep me busy. Will probably bring this into the basement for the winter, as my shop is not heated, and the cold is coming. Thanks for responding.?
Re: Added album New to me SL1000 #photo-notice

 


Parts and bearings and such are available several places, including the usual suspect, eBay, but Unimat Homestead??is also a good place, and they have a better quality printed copy of the manual, too. I was pretty flush when I got my SL & DB last year, and bought the manual, bearings, and belts from Doug.?

We have blueprints/drawings also in files, for many of the machine parts, as well.?

They're cool little machines!

Bill in OKC

William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)

Aphorisms to live by:
Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.?
SEMPER GUMBY!
Improvise, Adapt, and Overcome.
Physics doesn't care about your schedule.
The only reason I know anything is because I've done it wrong enough times to START to know better



On Friday, January 6, 2023 at 06:48:53 PM CST, Kit Maira <kit.maira@...> wrote:


Thanks, I¡¯ve been exploring them, as well as the photo albums. Is a manual available that I can download, preferably for free? I noticed that there is a missing snap ring on the shaft that drives the carriage feed.

Re: Added album New to me SL1000 #photo-notice

 

Looks like it's in pretty good condition. Did you get any accessories with it?

If you look in the Files or go to:

/g/Unimat/files/unimat%20manuals

you will find various manuals and articles about the SL, some official, some from enthusiastic users. I think there is a lot of duplication, but looking through them will tell you most of what there is to know about Unimat DB & SL lathes.
Re: Added album New to me SL1000 #photo-notice

 

Thanks, I¡¯ve been exploring them, as well as the photo albums. Is a manual available that I can download, preferably for free? I noticed that there is a missing snap ring on the shaft that drives the carriage feed.
Re: Added album New to me SL1000 #photo-notice

 

Don't forget to check out the Files section. Lots of information there.

Neil


On Fri., Jan. 6, 2023, 15:40 Group Notification, <[email protected]> wrote:

Kit Maira <kit.maira@...> added the album New to me SL1000: Today I purchased this UniMat SL1000. I look forward to learning more about it.
Added album New to me SL1000 #photo-notice

Group Notification
 

Kit Maira <kit.maira@...> added the album New to me SL1000: Today I purchased this UniMat SL1000. I look forward to learning more about it.
Re: Speed measurement

 

I have a couple of older Shimpo digital meters that can do both. The have a selector switch on the front and different attachments. For feet per minute they use a small wheel.
?Jeff


-----Original Message-----
From: OldToolmaker via groups.io <old_toolmaker@...>
To: Carl <carl.blum@...>; [email protected]
Sent: Fri, Jan 6, 2023 7:43 am
Subject: Re: [Unimat] Speed measurement

Surface Feet per Minute is a factor of more than just a measurement of RPM alone. It is a calculation of RPM and Diameter.

Dick
Re: Speed measurement

 

Surface Feet per Minute is a factor of more than just a measurement of RPM alone. It is a calculation of RPM and Diameter.

Dick
Re: Speed measurement

 

I will probably will just stay with the original digital display that came with my motor control that displays rpm as a percentage of full speed. I have the power supply and motor control housed in an enclosure from Grainger. I cut a custom opening in the box to fit the display so I might as well use it.
Dick
Re: Pulleys / re-motoring

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Sure Andy. Attached photos of the servo? sewing machine motor mounted on the milling column of my Unimat 3. You can see I made an adaptor/mounting bracket out of 7mm thick steel for the purpose... Cut it out with an angle grinder and then filed it a bit to final size.

?

Regarding the motor¡¯s previous use with my Unimat SL, that was for turning rather than milling. I simply attached the bracket that came with the motor on the work surface behind the SL /as shown in one of the attached photos, albeit sans motor, plus photoshop virtualization). Then I simply connected the motor¡¯s pully to the SL¡¯s pully via a heat-fused belt, also made for the purpose.

?

Friendly regards,

Alan

?

?

?

From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of Andrey Malakov (gmail)
Sent: Wednesday, January 4, 2023 3:05 AM
To: [email protected]; alan.ehrlich@...
Subject: Re: [Unimat] Pulleys / re-motoring

?

Alan and David, would you mind sharing pictures??I am looking for inspiration on mounting options for these sewing?machines servos.

?

Thanks,

Andy

?

On Tue, Jan 3, 2023 at 7:18 PM Alan Ehrlich <alan.ehrlich@...> wrote:

I likewise successfully powered my Unimat SL with a 550 watt servo sewing machine motor for a while... Until I transferred it to the milling column on my Unimat 3, where it shines even more.

?

Kind regards,

Alan

Geneva, Switzerland



On 3 Jan 2023, at 20:56, David via <andreadee=[email protected]> wrote:

?Good evening,

Over a year ago I fitted a 240v 550w brushless dc servo motor, designed for a sewing machine, to my SL.
I have had absolutely no problems with it since. It was simplicity to fit and worked straight out of the box with no extra equipment required.
I also fitted a tachometer but found it to be not needed as the motor does not slow down under any reasonable load.
As it is basically a three phase motor with a microprocessor speed controller and feedback, it just spins at whatever speed is set on the controller.?
As a test I set it at 400 rpm and tried to stop it manually but it just increases power usage. I got it up to 500w before my gloves got too hot.
I run the lathe on a fixed pulley arrangement of 3:1 and work the lathe speed out as I go. I've never been a feet per minute type of user. Just up a bit, down a bit, that's fine.
As yet I've not broken any tools or ripped the workpiece out of the chuck, I've got the belt tension set so that it slips before that.

regards,

David?
??

IMG_1561 (004).jpg
IMG_1562 (003).jpg
IMG_1564 (002).jpg
Unimat SL configuration.jpg
Unimat SL configuration - virtual.jpg

Re: Pulleys / re-motoring

 

Alan and David, would you mind sharing pictures??I am looking for inspiration on mounting options for these sewing?machines servos.

Thanks,
Andy

On Tue, Jan 3, 2023 at 7:18 PM Alan Ehrlich <alan.ehrlich@...> wrote:
I likewise successfully powered my Unimat SL with a 550 watt servo sewing machine motor for a while... Until I transferred it to the milling column on my Unimat 3, where it shines even more.

Kind regards,
Alan
Geneva, Switzerland


On 3 Jan 2023, at 20:56, David via <andreadee=[email protected]> wrote:

?Good evening,

Over a year ago I fitted a 240v 550w brushless dc servo motor, designed for a sewing machine, to my SL.
I have had absolutely no problems with it since. It was simplicity to fit and worked straight out of the box with no extra equipment required.
I also fitted a tachometer but found it to be not needed as the motor does not slow down under any reasonable load.
As it is basically a three phase motor with a microprocessor speed controller and feedback, it just spins at whatever speed is set on the controller.?
As a test I set it at 400 rpm and tried to stop it manually but it just increases power usage. I got it up to 500w before my gloves got too hot.
I run the lathe on a fixed pulley arrangement of 3:1 and work the lathe speed out as I go. I've never been a feet per minute type of user. Just up a bit, down a bit, that's fine.
As yet I've not broken any tools or ripped the workpiece out of the chuck, I've got the belt tension set so that it slips before that.

regards,

David?
??

Re: Pulleys / re-motoring

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

I likewise successfully powered my Unimat SL with a 550 watt servo sewing machine motor for a while... Until I transferred it to the milling column on my Unimat 3, where it shines even more.

Kind regards,
Alan
Geneva, Switzerland


On 3 Jan 2023, at 20:56, David via groups.io <andreadee@...> wrote:

?Good evening,

Over a year ago I fitted a 240v 550w brushless dc servo motor, designed for a sewing machine, to my SL.
I have had absolutely no problems with it since. It was simplicity to fit and worked straight out of the box with no extra equipment required.
I also fitted a tachometer but found it to be not needed as the motor does not slow down under any reasonable load.
As it is basically a three phase motor with a microprocessor speed controller and feedback, it just spins at whatever speed is set on the controller.?
As a test I set it at 400 rpm and tried to stop it manually but it just increases power usage. I got it up to 500w before my gloves got too hot.
I run the lathe on a fixed pulley arrangement of 3:1 and work the lathe speed out as I go. I've never been a feet per minute type of user. Just up a bit, down a bit, that's fine.
As yet I've not broken any tools or ripped the workpiece out of the chuck, I've got the belt tension set so that it slips before that.

regards,

David?
??

Re: Pulleys / re-motoring

 

Good evening,

Over a year ago I fitted a 240v 550w brushless dc servo motor, designed for a sewing machine, to my SL.
I have had absolutely no problems with it since. It was simplicity to fit and worked straight out of the box with no extra equipment required.
I also fitted a tachometer but found it to be not needed as the motor does not slow down under any reasonable load.
As it is basically a three phase motor with a microprocessor speed controller and feedback, it just spins at whatever speed is set on the controller.?
As a test I set it at 400 rpm and tried to stop it manually but it just increases power usage. I got it up to 500w before my gloves got too hot.
I run the lathe on a fixed pulley arrangement of 3:1 and work the lathe speed out as I go. I've never been a feet per minute type of user. Just up a bit, down a bit, that's fine.
As yet I've not broken any tools or ripped the workpiece out of the chuck, I've got the belt tension set so that it slips before that.

regards,

David?
??
Re: Pulleys / re-motoring

 

On Mon, Jan 2, 2023 at 01:41 PM, Bill in OKC too wrote:
Not running a power supply flat out generally reduces problems
This also applies to the motor - it should be operating around the middle range of its capacity. One manufacturer recommends about 80% of maximum for their permanent magnet DC motors. If the power supply matches the motor in terms of electrical demand then neither should have a problem in normal use on something like a Unimat. The motor should not be too powerful - excess power can be damaging when things go wrong mechanically - and nor should the power supply. The overload protection on modern PSUs should be quick acting when it reaches the limit, but it should be reasonable to run the PSU up to its maximum rated output continuously. Otherwise what does the rated output mean?
Re: Speed measurement

 

That's maybe not the same model I have, but is, IIRC, the same brand. Mine needs a bit of work, and is buried somewhere in the to-do pile, which is why I got the HF machine.?

Bill in OKC

William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)

Aphorisms to live by:
Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.?
SEMPER GUMBY!
Improvise, Adapt, and Overcome.
Physics doesn't care about your schedule.
The only reason I know anything is because I've done it wrong enough times to START to know better



On Monday, January 2, 2023 at 04:07:20 PM CST, John Hutnick <johnhutnick@...> wrote:


Here is a hand tachometer that I bought years ago at an Amateur radio show.? It is by Herman Sticht Company.? I never tried it, but this is probably what we need for our machines.? No farting around with anything electronic.? If you like this, you can find on Ebay for $20 - 30

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