Re: off topic question repowering
If you buy an extension cord from Dollar Tree, cut off the plug and socket, you'll have 6 feet of good wire for $1.25 with plenty of amps rating.
Neil.
Hello all. Back again with another simple question. What american wire gauge sized wire size should I use to connect the 110-120v to th 24v out converter box, thence to the speed controller and finally to the motor itself. The scooter motor wire looks to be 16 awg or so. My rudimentary knowledge of electrics tell me that watts/voltage= amperage or 150W/24V= 6A in round numbers. From tables on line it appears that 18awg should be more than adequate. Is that reasonable?
Thank in advance,
Bill in NC, formerly from RI
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off topic question repowering
Hello all. Back again with another simple question. What american wire gauge sized wire size should I use to connect the 110-120v to th 24v out converter box, thence to the speed controller and finally to the motor itself. The scooter motor wire looks to be 16 awg or so. My rudimentary knowledge of electrics tell me that watts/voltage= amperage or 150W/24V= 6A in round numbers. From tables on line it appears that 18awg should be more than adequate. Is that reasonable?
Thank in advance,
Bill in NC, formerly from RI
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Re: Overall Performance of Unimat 3
I don't think Sherline have any info. The file is just a text file with instructions. There should be a sketch too, but I can't find it. I'll see if I have a backup somewhere.
Neil
On Tue., Jul. 26, 2022, 05:53 old_toolmaker via , <old_toolmaker= [email protected]> wrote: Neil,
I checked the files section for the drawing of the Sherline threading attachment adapter for the U3 and saw what I think is the file you referenced but I could not open the file for viewing.
Do you know if the file is empty or corrupted?
I am going to contact Sherline directly to get information that may shed some light on this. I am sure I can figure this out myself but did not want to reinvent the wheel if I can avoid that.
Thanks for your help.
Dick
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Re: SL replacement drive belts
Hello Leslie,
I bought a length of orange polyurethane belting from ebay seller "shedosht", based in Pontefract, Yorkshire.
He is currently charging ?5.85 per metre on a increasing length/decreasing price basis.?
I found it to be simplicity itself to make a belt, just a Stanley knife and blowlamp. In fact I've only had to make one in over two years.
regards,
David
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Re: SL replacement drive belts
if you are handy, you can make your own from the polyurethane belting material for sale on ebay by the foot. the ends just heat together after you measure and cut. there is a learning curve involved but last longer than black ones people sell on ebay. as a side note, i have a unimat from my buddy who's parents bought it for him new in 1968 in austria. the belts are made of some kind of rubberized material and look to be woven/braided. they still work but i ordered the black ones and then switched to the polyurethane self made ones. just make sure you use a diameter similar to the one that broke.?
-----Original Message----- From: < [email protected]>, <mehmood.naqshbandi@...> Sent: Jul 26, 2022 10:24 AM To: < [email protected]>, <leslie.bevis.smith@...> Subject: Re: [Unimat] SL replacement drive belts
?
Hello Leslie!
?
Several eBay vendors of orange polyurethane belts, eg search for ¡°?Emco Unimat SL 1000 DB 200 Belts¡±.
I half shredded one by rubbing it against a stray item on my desk, so bought more, but two years later the shredded one is still running perfectly well.
?
My black rubber ones broke apart soon after I got my unimat, but they were as old as me I think.
?
?
On 26 Jul 2022, at 14:45, Leslie Bevis-Smith <leslie.bevis.smith@...> wrote:
Hi
Just had a belt? break on my SL today while milling (on the Myford). Could someone tell me who sells SL belts in the UK please?
Thanks. Leslie
?
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Re: SL replacement drive belts
Hello Leslie!
Several eBay vendors of orange polyurethane belts, eg search for ¡°?Emco Unimat SL 1000 DB 200 Belts¡±.
I half shredded one by rubbing it against a stray item on my desk, so bought more, but two years later the shredded one is still running perfectly well.
My black rubber ones broke apart soon after I got my unimat, but they were as old as me I think.
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On 26 Jul 2022, at 14:45, Leslie Bevis-Smith <leslie.bevis.smith@...> wrote:
? Hi
Just had a belt? break on my SL today while milling (on the Myford). Could someone tell me who sells SL belts in the UK please?
Thanks. Leslie
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SL replacement drive belts
Hi
Just had a belt? break on my SL today while milling (on the Myford). Could someone tell me who sells SL belts in the UK please?
Thanks. Leslie
|
Re: Overall Performance of Unimat 3
Neil,
I checked the files section for the drawing of the Sherline threading attachment adapter for the U3 and saw what I think is the file you referenced but I could not open the file for viewing.
Do you know if the file is empty or corrupted?
I am going to contact Sherline directly to get information that may shed some light on this. I am sure I can figure this out myself but did not want to reinvent the wheel if I can avoid that.
Thanks for your help.
Dick
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Re: Mauser caliper question
I would suggest that JHM, you search the internet for ¡°how to read a Vernier scale¡±, it¡¯s easy to do but harder to describe here in words than see in a sketch online. ?
(I¡¯m in my mid sixties and when I was in year 3 secondary school (13-14yo), one pupil had an electronic calculator with glowing red numbers. ?We learnt to read vernier callipers in Physics classes, but it would have dropped off the syllabus within a few years. ?I had a slide rule that my uncle, an eminent physicist, said, had more functions on it than he¡¯d ever used, but my fellow pupils scorned my claim to be able to read 4 significant figures off it. ?4 figure logarithm tables were the norm. But I still use my slide rule to take dimensions off an odd-scaled drawing of a model subject. )
?Digital devices give us a wonderful sense of precision, but the workpiece¡¯s actual precision is never better than its least accurate dimension.
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On 25 Jul 2022, at 21:43, sawbona@... wrote:
?Hello: On Mon, Jul 25, 2022 at 02:07 PM, Bill in OKC too wrote:
This site may help you ...
Thanks for the link. It does read in mm I can read 25.4mm when I set it at 1.0" like in the photo I uploaded. It is the lack of numbers in the lower scale is what seemed strange to me. I found a Mauser-Messzeug catalogue from the early/mid 1950's with what would seem to be the complete Mauser line of measuring instruments. My 25mm / 0.01 micrometer is there and now my 160mm caliper. I'll upload it to the files section for reference. Thanks for your input. Best, JHM
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Re: Mauser caliper question
I have a cheap dial caliper (~$30) I got in the mid 80's, and it's still doing well after all these years with almost daily use.? I have better ones, but the old one still gets the most use.? I will also add that the HF digital calipers are hit or miss.? I have one that has always been a bit flakey, but when it's working correctly, it performs just as well as my Mitutyou digital micrometer.? When it's misbehaving, it zeros randomly and likes switching units, particularly inch to mm.? Some people never have problems, others are similar to mine.
-Dave
On Monday, July 25, 2022 at 01:54:50 PM PDT, sawbona@... <sawbona@...> wrote:
On Mon, Jul 25, 2022 at 04:04 PM, Carl wrote:
... lower scale is metric, each line is 1mm and with the vernier you can read to 0.1mm ...
Yes, I can make it out to 0.1 mm. Then the lack of numbers must be because this model can read only up to 0.1 mm The rest you have to guess.
... top scale is inches, each line is 1/16" and with the vernier you can read to 1/64" ...
I have never been able to make much sense of inches, even though I went to school abroad and learned how to measure in inches before doing so in the metric system.? 8^/
... use dial calipers instead.
I have never had the chance to use them and my eyesight constantly reminds me that it may be a good thing to get one. But I have always had the feeling that they are fragile, same as the electronic ones. The less expensive ones ie: cheap even more so, as well as inaccurate. When I get my U3 fully set up and all the needed tooling I am now needing has been purchased I may undertake one of the many basic digital readouts I have seen published for the U3. Or maybe just invest/make a decent set of handwheels, the original ones are a real PITA. Thanks for your input. Best, JHM
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Re: Overall Performance of Unimat 3
Neil,
Thanks for the quick reply and the heads-up
Steve
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On 7/25/2022 4:06 PM, Neil Morrison wrote: Buy the Sherline set for their lathe. There are instructions on our site
to make a little adapter to use them on a U3.
Neil
On Mon., Jul. 25, 2022, 15:46 Steve, <srjones@...
<mailto:srjones@...>> wrote:
Where on the Sherline Web site do they offer "gears" for a Unimat U3?
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Re: Overall Performance of Unimat 3
Buy the Sherline set for their lathe. There are instructions on our site to make a little adapter to use them on a U3.
Neil
On Mon., Jul. 25, 2022, 15:46 Steve, < srjones@...> wrote: Where on the Sherline Web site do they offer "gears" for a Unimat U3?
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Re: Overall Performance of Unimat 3
Where on the Sherline Web site do they offer "gears" for a Unimat U3?
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On 7/25/2022 9:07 AM, OldToolmaker via groups.io wrote: I am aware Sherline has thread gear sets for the Unimat 3 in both metric
as well as imperial.
I am not sure if they are compatible or adaptable
to the SL and DB.
I would think they could be adapted.
Dick
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The following files and folders have been uploaded to
the Files area of the [email protected] group.
By: @juliushenrymarx <sawbona@...>
Description:
Scan of an early/mid 1950's Hans Lehmann photo catalogue of what seems to be the whole line of measuring instruments manufactured by Mauser-Messzeug GMBH at that time. Only photos and model numbers, unfortunately no descriptions or details.
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Re: Mauser caliper question
Hello:
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Show quoted text
On Mon, Jul 25, 2022 at 04:04 PM, Carl wrote:
... lower scale is metric, each line is 1mm and with the vernier you can read to 0.1mm ...
Yes, I can make it out to 0.1 mm. Then the lack of numbers must be because this model can read only up to 0.1 mm The rest you have to guess.
... top scale is inches, each line is 1/16" and with the vernier you can read to 1/64" ...
I have never been able to make much sense of inches, even though I went to school abroad and learned how to measure in inches before doing so in the metric system.? 8^/
... use dial calipers instead.
I have never had the chance to use them and my eyesight constantly reminds me that it may be a good thing to get one. But I have always had the feeling that they are fragile, same as the electronic ones. The less expensive ones ie: cheap even more so, as well as inaccurate. When I get my U3 fully set up and all the needed tooling I am now needing has been purchased I may undertake one of the many basic digital readouts I have seen published for the U3. Or maybe just invest/make a decent set of handwheels, the original ones are a real PITA. Thanks for your input. Best, JHM
|
Re: Mauser caliper question
Hello:
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Show quoted text
On Mon, Jul 25, 2022 at 02:07 PM, Bill in OKC too wrote:
This site may help you ...
Thanks for the link. It does read in mm I can read 25.4mm when I set it at 1.0" like in the photo I uploaded. It is the lack of numbers in the lower scale is what seemed strange to me. I found a Mauser-Messzeug catalogue from the early/mid 1950's with what would seem to be the complete Mauser line of measuring instruments. My 25mm / 0.01 micrometer is there and now my 160mm caliper. I'll upload it to the files section for reference. Thanks for your input. Best, JHM
|
Re: Mauser caliper question
Hello
JHM:
The
lower scale is metric, each line is 1mm and with the vernier
you can read to 0.1mm, (0.004"). The caliper is set to 25.4mm
( 1" ).
The top
scale is inches, each line is 1/16" and with the vernier you
can read to 1/64" ( 0.015625" or 0.4mm ). 4 times courser that
the metric scale. Not the handiest scale, a scale that reads
to 0.001" is much more useful.
I never
use my vernier caliper, I use dial calipers instead. The
electronic calipers are handy, they switch from metric to
inches and you can set zero anywhere for comparison
measurements. But they take batteries and the electronic may
fail some day with no way to repair. On the plus side Harbor
Freight has them cheap.
Carl.
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Hello:
While looking for something else, this morning I came across a
brand new 6" Mauser caliper on sale at? the local e-place.
I'm a magnet for these things and could not let it pass by.
Much less when it was going for a bit under US$16.00.
A beautifully made instrument, it has an aura of quality all over
it.
There is a inch/mm Whitworth equivalence table on the back of the
slider (with German/Italian/Spanish abbreviations) and what seems
to be a table of weights for round and square steel in kg/m, have
to study to see how to read it properly.
Two things caught my attention: it does not say "Made in Germany"
or "Made in W. Germany".
But the small leaflet with the Mauser logo says Mauser-Messzug
GmbH and Oberndorf-Neckar, where heavy industries such as Heckler
& Koch are located.
Could it be from as far back as the mid 1950's?
The tiny two page leaflet inside the plastic box it came in reads
56-100-12.56-HB., which could well be date of print.
That would make it ~67 years old.
The other is the scale.
I have not been around much, but all the calipers I have used have
a different type of scale.
ie: with numbers
Maybe because it is just for up to 0.1 mm?
Thanks in advance.
Best,
JHM
|
Re: Mauser caliper question
This site may help you:?
I have a Helios vernier caliper I bought very used when I was 17 or 18. Unfortunately, I'm not exactly sure where it is right now. ;) IIRC, the scales are numbered on mine. I suspect yours is meant to measure in centimeters and fractions thereof, not millimeters. I'm not at all sure how to measure with that sort of vernier, despite having owned one for so long. Mine was meant for fractional inches, though it does have the metric scales, as well. Even if not great for fractional millimeters, it's going to be fine for measuring raw stock, and I'd have snapped it up, myself. I'm fond of Mauser firearms, too.?
Bill in OKC
William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)
Aphorisms to live by: Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.? SEMPER GUMBY!
On Monday, July 25, 2022 at 11:49:35 AM CDT, sawbona@... <sawbona@...> wrote:
Hello: While looking for something else, this morning I came across a brand new 6" Mauser caliper on sale at? the local e-place. I'm a magnet for these things and could not let it pass by. Much less when it was going for a bit under US$16.00.  A beautifully made instrument, it has an aura of quality all over it. There is a inch/mm Whitworth equivalence table on the back of the slider (with German/Italian/Spanish abbreviations) and what seems to be a table of weights for round and square steel in kg/m, have to study to see how to read it properly. Two things caught my attention: it does not say "Made in Germany" or "Made in W. Germany". But the small leaflet with the Mauser logo says Mauser-Messzug GmbH and Oberndorf-Neckar, where heavy industries such as Heckler & Koch are located. Could it be from as far back as the mid 1950's? The tiny two page leaflet inside the plastic box it came in reads 56-100-12.56-HB., which could well be date of print. That would make it ~67 years old. The other is the scale. I have not been around much, but all the calipers I have used have a different type of scale. ie: with numbers Maybe because it is just for up to 0.1 mm? Thanks in advance. Best, JHM
|
Hello: While looking for something else, this morning I came across a brand new 6" Mauser caliper on sale at? the local e-place. I'm a magnet for these things and could not let it pass by. Much less when it was going for a bit under US$16.00.  A beautifully made instrument, it has an aura of quality all over it. There is a inch/mm Whitworth equivalence table on the back of the slider (with German/Italian/Spanish abbreviations) and what seems to be a table of weights for round and square steel in kg/m, have to study to see how to read it properly. Two things caught my attention: it does not say "Made in Germany" or "Made in W. Germany". But the small leaflet with the Mauser logo says Mauser-Messzug GmbH and Oberndorf-Neckar, where heavy industries such as Heckler & Koch are located. Could it be from as far back as the mid 1950's? The tiny two page leaflet inside the plastic box it came in reads 56-100-12.56-HB., which could well be date of print. That would make it ~67 years old. The other is the scale. I have not been around much, but all the calipers I have used have a different type of scale. ie: with numbers Maybe because it is just for up to 0.1 mm? Thanks in advance. Best, JHM
|
Re: A slight diversion from chuck issues: 24v DC motor wire code
Had a solar hot water heater controller like that on my house in Las Vegas in the early 80's. That company didn't another dime from me.?
A few years ago one of the industrial washing machines I was working on had a small electrical fire that damaged? a bunch of the wiring. All the wire in that machine was red, but there were number tags on all the wires. It took me most of a week, but I completely rewired the machine. Marking on the wires & connectors makes the difference.?
A lot of years ago, I built my first computer from articles in Radio Electronics magazine.? It used wire-wrap sockets, and I could only afford one roll of the wire, at $25 per. First-time power up let the magic smoke out of some very expensive chips. They? call that "pound wise, penny foolish." It would have taken a couple more months to get more colors of wire but I didn't want to wait any longer.?
It's easier do it right than do it again. See my first aphorism. :)
William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)
Aphorisms to live by: Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.? SEMPER GUMBY!
On Monday, July 25, 2022 at 02:11:38 AM CDT, Brian Symons <brians@...> wrote:
You can always sleeve the leads of your motor for safety sake
even with heatshrink.?
It is cheap enough & readily available as well as easy to use.
I've done it before on gear that I wanted to make MORE fool
proof.
I once worked on a dental chair that the manufacturer wired
everything in the same gauge white wire.?
There were multiple voltages all the same wire - DC extra low
voltage to manual controls with metal parts, mains wiring ... the
works.?
Even many earths were in the same white but I think the mains was
green earth.
No wiring had any markings on it & the same single pin
connector was used on every wire to the PCBs.
The PCB also had no markings identifying what any connector was
for or even a connector number.?
That was years ago & that manufacturer did it to stop anyone
servicing their gear.?
Every IC had the markings sandblasted off them & even the
transistors had been defaced as well as some discrete components.
They would probably not be game to go quite so far now days with
wiring for safety reasons but I have seen newer gear that has all
the IC markings removed.
On 25-July-2022 4:08 pm, Gerald Feldman
wrote:
The
problem is the same as that with thread sizes ¨C there are
simply too many of them to be uniform everywhere.
?
Even
just In the US, for house wiring (120 / 240 volts), ground
is bare or green, hot is black, and neutral is white (or
gray).? If the other phase of the hot is in the same
conduit, it may be any other color, but is usually red.? For
industrial three-phase wiring, the ¡°standard¡± colors will
vary with the voltage, and whether the distribution is delta
or wye.
?
Of
course, what is important is that the colors (or thread
sizes) used throughout the job are uniform and that everyone
working on the job understands exactly what ¡°standard¡± is
being used.
?
Jerry
F.
?
?
The colours used on the motor in question indicate the
manufacturer has given no thought to safety and just used a
commonly available cheap cable. I would never use the colours
for mains wiring on anything not intended to be plugged into
the mains.
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OldToolmaker
Carl
Bill in OKC too