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Re: Drive belt material

 

Hello:


On Sun, Jul 3, 2022 at 03:55 PM, Richard Burrows wrote:
... both seem to work equally well.
Yes, I would expect that to be so in normal circumstances.
But ...

Here's the thing?: I have the idea that the textured green has/would have (?) more grip ie: resistance to slippage.
What happens when, due to [fill in here], your tool sticks and the chuck jams?

Yesterday I was working on a piece from my scrap heap, getting acquainted with my U3.
The piece ended up being harder than expected and the only tool I have (a tungsten set is arriving tomorrow) was having trouble with it.
I pressed on, the chuck jammed and the belt slipped, giving me the extra second to flip the switch.

Not that you'd do such a foolish thing, but have you noticed any difference in slippage between the textured green and the non-textured one?
BTW: thanks for the link.

JHM


Re: Drive belt material

 

I have bought smooth orange belts from Homestead and made my own belts for my DB200 from green textured polyurethane, both seem to work equally well.
Here is a link to a YouTube video on making your own polyurethane belts.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nJuQdiyFSB8


Drive belt material

 

Hello:

The belt for the power drive that came with my U3 broke a few days ago.
I can manage without the PD but I will eventually need a new belt + extras.

The other two/three belts I have seem to be doing fine but I have not used the U3 very much.
The chap who sold me the U3 made a reference to 'O' rings but I am weary of using them and would like to make my own polyurethane belts.

And that's where it seems to get murky.
There are red/orange belts which are smooth and there are green belts which are rough.

I have also seen material which is hollow which would apparently be joined with a metal piece and material with what seems to be a textile centre.
I'd appreciate some advice on this from the forum.

Thanks in advance,

JHM


Re: Unimat DB 200 Bearings

slynch
 

Thanks for the tip!

Cheers
SL


On Fri, Jul 1, 2022 at 11:24 AM Dave W <fahrwud@...> wrote:

SKF E13 ?magneto bearings. Surprisingly tough little beasts, and give them a meal of good quality bearing grease once in a while.?

DW


Re: Unimat DB 200 Bearings

 

SKF E13 ?magneto bearings. Surprisingly tough little beasts, and give them a meal of good quality bearing grease once in a while.?

DW


Re: Unimat DB 200 Bearings

 

You can get them from Doug Feistamel at Homestead.
See his
UNIMAT ?BELTS ?& PARTS ORDER ?PAGE.
http://unimat.homestead.com/belts.html


Re: Unimat DB 200 Bearings

slynch
 

Thanks again Bill, you are always coming to the rescue !

Cheers
SL


On Thu, Jun 30, 2022 at 10:18 AM Bill in OKC too via <wmrmeyers=[email protected]> wrote:
You can order all of them from??Doug is the proprietor, and easy to deal with. Answers email, and stupid questions :P? from my own experience. Also has belts and books. The first Unimat I got, late last year, was a little rough, so I bought a full set of bearings and belts, and a printed and bound copy of the book.?

Bill in OKC

William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)

Aphorisms to live by:
Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.?
SEMPER GUMBY!
Improvise, Adapt, and Overcome.
Physics doesn't care about your schedule.
The only reason I know anything is because I've done it wrong enough times to START to know better



On Thursday, June 30, 2022 at 09:13:35 AM CDT, slynch <seanlynch40@...> wrote:


While I have everything apart, I would like to replace all the bearings, headstock spindle bearings and motor pulley bearings. Does anyone here know of the product numbers or codes for ordering from Timken, or SKF or anyone else in North America ?

Thanks in advance
Cheers
SL


Re: Unimat DB 200 Bearings

 

You can order all of them from??Doug is the proprietor, and easy to deal with. Answers email, and stupid questions :P? from my own experience. Also has belts and books. The first Unimat I got, late last year, was a little rough, so I bought a full set of bearings and belts, and a printed and bound copy of the book.?

Bill in OKC

William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)

Aphorisms to live by:
Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.?
SEMPER GUMBY!
Improvise, Adapt, and Overcome.
Physics doesn't care about your schedule.
The only reason I know anything is because I've done it wrong enough times to START to know better



On Thursday, June 30, 2022 at 09:13:35 AM CDT, slynch <seanlynch40@...> wrote:


While I have everything apart, I would like to replace all the bearings, headstock spindle bearings and motor pulley bearings. Does anyone here know of the product numbers or codes for ordering from Timken, or SKF or anyone else in North America ?

Thanks in advance
Cheers
SL


Unimat DB 200 Bearings

slynch
 

While I have everything apart, I would like to replace all the bearings, headstock spindle bearings and motor pulley bearings. Does anyone here know of the product numbers or codes for ordering from Timken, or SKF or anyone else in North America ?

Thanks in advance
Cheers
SL


Re: Mounting the Unimat 3

 

Hello:


On Tue, Jun 28, 2022 at 05:31 PM, Carl wrote:
I've put my Unimats on 3/4" steel plate, surface ground flat.
Ahh ...
That was my ideal setup.
The plate (metal+cutting job) was rather dear but the surface grinding was really eye watering expensive.

I've been looking for a cast iron top from anything the right size for years, to no avail.
When they come up it is as part of a machine, usually quite expensive as they seldom are destined for the scrap heap.

Thanks for your input.

Best,

JHM


Re: Mounting the Unimat 3

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Hi Gang:

I've put my Unimats on 3/4" steel plate, surface ground flat. When I lived in the school bus, I used the cast iron top of my table saw. I would check Goodwill or Habitat for a used table saw, I've bought 2 at $50 each. Not junkers, but the Sears 10" saw with the 27" table.

Third pick would be a tomb stone. While not magnetic, they are lapped flatter than the Blanchard ground table saws tops.

Carl.



Re: Mounting the Unimat 3

 

Hello:


On Tue, Jun 28, 2022 at 11:58 AM, slynch wrote:

... always mount to a metal plate ...

Yes, that was part of my reasoning to use galvanised steel plate.

I have a Unimat milling table which will receive the original milling post post and motor when the new 200W one gets installed.
Which means that I will probably not be using the milling post on the U3.

I have been thinking about installing a shorter post bolted in its place which could be used for many other things.
eg: a flexible neck to add a LED lamp, holding the dial gauge or some other tool.
?
Thanks for your input.

Best,

JHM


Re: Mounting the Unimat 3

 

Hello:


On Tue, Jun 28, 2022 at 11:45 AM, Keith S. Angus wrote:

The MDF sheets I have seem quite stable and strong
Yes, till a drop of water comes near them.? 8^/
Qualities differ, maybe sheets made long ago are better (like many other things).

For bolting the lathe down ...
I was thinking of an M6 wood insert I came across yesterday.



There are long and short versions, a long version put in from the bottom and epoxied in.
Should take care of it.

The U3 base is much more rigid than the DB/SL, and the two bolts are enough.
I'm glad to hear that, but I'd be happier with a bolt in each corner.

Thanks for your input.

Best,

JHM


Re: Mounting the Unimat 3

slynch
 

My 2 cents, I always mount to a metal plate to aid the placement of a magnetic dial indicator.


On Tue, Jun 28, 2022 at 10:45 AM Keith S. Angus <keithsangus@...> wrote:
The MDF sheets I have seem quite stable and strong - maybe they used a different grade for kitchen cabinets. It is heavier than usual, and a few sheets made me a good solid bench for fine work. I may have enough sheets left over to support a length of kitchen worktop for a general engineering (bikes, cars and other stuff). It was being chucked out at a company I worked in years ago, and is slowly getting used up.

For bolting the lathe down the simplest is through holes with a countersink or counterbore for the heads underneath. Use? M6 or ?" screws. I used dome nuts so the thread would not get gummed up. The U3 base is much more rigid than the DB/SL, and the two bolts are enough.


Re: Mounting the Unimat 3

 

The MDF sheets I have seem quite stable and strong - maybe they used a different grade for kitchen cabinets. It is heavier than usual, and a few sheets made me a good solid bench for fine work. I may have enough sheets left over to support a length of kitchen worktop for a general engineering (bikes, cars and other stuff). It was being chucked out at a company I worked in years ago, and is slowly getting used up.

For bolting the lathe down the simplest is through holes with a countersink or counterbore for the heads underneath. Use? M6 or ?" screws. I used dome nuts so the thread would not get gummed up. The U3 base is much more rigid than the DB/SL, and the two bolts are enough.


Re: Alternative motor for the Unimat SL

 

I just used for the first time one of my Unimats with the 24 volt motor conversion. ? I used it to make a new motor pulley and to drill and tap a set screw hole in same. Totally blown away with it¡¯s quietness and power.?

Dick


Re: Mounting the Unimat 3

 

Hello:


On Mon, Jun 27, 2022 at 11:55 PM, Keith S. Angus wrote:
I have used bits of laminate faced MDF
As an architect, I have a special place in hell reserved for MDF so I never considered it.
Before I remembered I had this piece of wood around, I had been considering a sandwich made from two or three layers of marine grade plywood, depending on what stock I would find but with an overall thickness of ~ 3 to 4 cm.

Stainless has become very expensive these last three years, at least locally.
I got the piece of #20 galvaniseed steel for a very good price so it will have to do.
It will surely outlive me.

Hm ...
I just realised that I made a typo in my OP: table is 60cm x 25 cm, not 35 cm.? =^/
Sorry.

How did you bolt down your lathe?
Pass through bolts? epoxied wood inserts?
In my U3 the mounting holes are not the same size: the one at the tailstock is ~7.5mm and the one at the headstock end is ~ 8.0.
Maybe it is the paint.

For some reason (surely inexperience) the two holes for bolting the U3 seem scarce to me.
Even the cast iron base in the older SLs had one in each corner, just like the large lathes.

Thanks for your input.

Best,

JHM


Re: Mounting the Unimat 3

 

I have used bits of laminate faced MDF left over from kitchen construction, ?" thick. It's flat enough provided it stays dry - not guaranteed in my garage, but OK so far. I have used a magnetic base on it, although obviously the magnet does nothing, but it is heavy enough to stay where it is put. If I was going to use a bit of plate it would be one of the magnetic grades of stainless. Otherwise I would consider a shallow stainless baking tray, but at the moment I find it is convenient to be able to brush the swarf straight off the edge into the bin. The only change I would make is to use bigger bases for my lathes. I chose a size to suit the SL and my Proxxon mill, and then, having constructed a rack to hold these bases, found it was a bit small for the U3 and definitely too small for the PC/Basic. It will also be too small for the Proxxon mill once I convert it to NC, and I no longer have the SL. I will use a bigger size soon but it will need a bit of work on the bench to accommodate them.


Re: Mounting the Unimat 3

 

Hello:

On Fri, Jun 24, 2022 at 05:47 PM, @juliushenrymarx wrote:
Any pointers?
Seems not ...?? ;^D

I was considering getting a half sheet of new/old stock (ca. 1988) Formica a carpenter friend has had laying around for years.
This because back in the time it used to be manufactured in ~1.2 mm thickness and was very hardy, seemed a good choice.
But then I remembered I will need something for a magnetic base to hold on to so I finally decided on the galvanised steel surface.

As luck would have it, the metal shop had a left over piece of #20 which I got at #22 price.
Every $0.01 counts.

I posed the original question to the forum because it occurred to me that, with a new 200W motor replacing the original 90W one, the forces acting on the cross slide/carriage/ways etc. when turning/milling will not be the same and the U3 may (?) need something different in terms of 'bolting down'.

I seriously dubt that the butcher block like wood base is going to warp or move but with the U3 being held down at only two? places, I am wondering what method it would be best to use for bolting it down.

Thanks in advance

JHM


Re: DB 200 Spindle washer placement ?

 

Good afternoon,

The raised portion of the washer should, in my experience, face the pulley end on re-assembly. The centre race of the front bearing then sits against this raised portion.
This ensures that the outer race of the same bearing, which does not rotate, is not coming into contact with the washer in question, which does rotate.

Hope this helps.

regards,

David