If you look at my album?Keith's DB_SL in Photos you will see the motor type many of us use successfully. I used a 130 W on my SL and it had plenty of power. I can't see why the U3 should need more. I ran it with Doug Feistamels polyurethane belts and found they never slipped. When I did have a problem (big bang - everything stopped) I found the shock had been efficiently transferred to the motor bearings, which needed to be replaced (with high quality ones - I suspect the originals were a bit cheap and cheerful). These motors are available from 100 to 200 W (that I have found). The motors get longer and slower as the power goes up. The one I used on the SL was shorter than the U90 motor, and gave more space around the chuck. They all have the same fixings on the shaft end, but the brushes (and therefore the cable entry) can be at either end. Generally the shafts are 8 mm so a direct fit for the U3 pulley and the fixing screws line up with the slots in the U3, so no mods to the motor plate are needed. The ones with a toothed belt pulley have a better shaft than the ones with a chain sprocket, but the sprocket is easier to get off. If you can find one with a longer shaft that will also be better.

I have a 150 W motor just waiting to go onto my U3, and I don't expect any problems. However I might make up a new set of pulleys, to compensate for the loss of the two speed motor. I do have a speed controller for it, but I like to get the speed nearly right with the belts before tweaking the controller - on the SL I rarely use the controller. Continuous use for an evening did not cause the motor to run hot, just a little warm.

There are a few other photo albums of fitting these motors to the DB/SL, but it is much simpler on the U3. I know it has been done, but it does not require much explanation, drawings, or photos.

Hello:

> ... 150w motor purrs and does not even get warm.
> ... like a safety feature.
Indeed.
And a good one too.

Replacement parts for these thinguies (with all respect) are quite/increasilgly? hard to come by.
And expensive.

One more question if I may, with respect to the PS to use for this motor:

Which one/type/spec do you use in your respective setups?
Any links you could share so I can find one?

Thanks in advance,

JHM

Hello:

I have recently purchased a Unimat 3 and am currently in the process of finding a suitable motor to replace the original 90W one.
I plan to eventually set it up on the grinding column so as to avoid the unmount/mount/mount process each time I need to mill something.

One option I have seen are the ubiquitous 220V/7000rpm sewing machine motors which are supposed to be made for continuous use but, like the original Unimat 3 motor, are at the most rated at 100W, at least the ones I can get locally.

I'd be very obliged if you could share your insight/experience with this spindle motor, which seems to be a much better option.

- Using it @24V, how long can you use it before it needs to cool down?
ie: have you found it to be prone to overheating?

- @200W, it is over 2X the original motor's rating. Have you found it necessary to install an overcurrent protection to protect the lathe in case of a lock-up or jam?

Thanks in advance,

JHM

Thanks for this!

When I first looked at the belts, they seemed like they could be Sherline belts, only a second look showed them to be much too long.? So since they were in the same box as the Unimat bits, I assumed them to be Unimat belts.

But now, I think you may be right, they may be for one of my wife's sewing machines and somehow creeped into MY storage area.? (The nerve!)

As to the handle, it's not bent and it's not rusty.? There is some wear, it has been used, for sure.? The factory "blackening" is gone, but that seems to be all the wear, the surface black.

Anyway, we'll see if anyone is interested.? I'm not about to put them on eBay .. too much hassle, methinks, and I don't really care about the money.? But I need to start minimizing, if only to save my wife some bother.? ?My days may well be numbered (with a smallish number) and it would be a sin to just toss them.

You have the feed handle for a Unimat DB or SL (same lathe for most purposes) and a dead centre for the same Unimats. The centre is not anything special, but the feed handle is much sought after.

The belts are a standard Vee belt commonly used on sewing machines and similar light machinery. I have often wondered whether they could be used on a Unimat, but I never found out. They are easy enough to find on Ebay if you know what size you need.

In summary - belts - probably no interest here.

Centre - someone might want one. Current price $15 (US) for two on Ebay - you rarely need two.

Feed handle - should get a decent price. I'm currently seeing none on Ebay worldwide and it looks to be in good condition - no rust, handle not bent, no visible wear. I think this is very little used, if at all.

Not of any use to me as my SL has gone to Australia and I haven't!

the handle is a unimat part, the center is likely one as well would need to know the shafts size to be sure, the belts i have not seen that style used in any of the unimat stuff I have looked into since starting, they also seem very big? my biggest belt that I have thats pre-made could not fit the handle in it.

good luck in selling them?

First, let me say I hope this post is OK .. different groups have different rules.

Anyway, while cleaning up today, I ran across a few things that I THINK are from a Unimat, but I don't actually know, as my last time in front of a Unimat was well over 40 years ago.?

(I'm an old man .. breakfast is a fuzzy memory.? The 70s ...)

The longer belt says "2114L" and could be new.? The shorter one says "1712" and looks well used.? I'm not sure it has any value.

Anyway, rather than put them back into a drawer for another 40 years, I figured I'd let the members of this list know about them.

As to price, that's a trickier thing.? How about "best offer a week from now", plus shipping by Canada Post, which seems to be about 10.00 USD to continental USA.

Alan

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I examined the pictures closely and the machine does look to be in nice condition.
Dick

To the gentlemen that caught my mistake. My apologies gentlemen....The machine is in fact a SL1000 with the lighter aluminum base versus the heavier DB200 ( cast iron base).?
I am also attaching another photo of some of the parts/accessories that I had forgotten to mention. They are also included in the sale:?

Sharp eyes, Carl!
I missed that one.

Dick

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Hello Dave:

I see the milling head mount, but not the column.

Carl.

Dave,
From your pictures the lathe appears to be an SL1000.
Am I missing something here?
Dick

Hi everyone. My name is Dave.? Im a new member to the group. I was told this is the "go-to" group for Unimat lathes so i had to join. I'd like to share with you guys my project that has kept me busy for the past couple months. I fully restored a? Unimat DB200 that I came across locally. It is 100% original. (Except for 2 screws I had to replace that original owner stripped out)?
For anyone looking to puchase a DB200, I am now selling mine. I have it listed locally but honestly,? I would rather it go to a like minded individual that is also passionate about these little machines. Someone that will appreciate my hard work and the excellent conditon of the machine.?
Machine was conpletely dissassembled and conpletely gone over from ground up. Electric motor was also completely gone through and is in perfect condition. It also has brand new belts and I am including 2 additional sets for the buyer. Lathe is a 100% percent original parts (except for 2 screws mentioned above) . It looks brand new and runs just as well. Absolutely NO rust anywhere on machine.. All original paint/color that is in great shape. No scratches, dents or any kind of damage. You will not find a nicer one.?
Lathe comes with:
3 jaw chuck
Drill chuck w/ key
Dead center
Sanding plate
Small vice
2 additional sets of brand new belts
2 Digital copies of the factory manuals for the lathe will also be provided and various other items that Im sure Im leaving out. No tooling or toolpost will be included. I am keeping mine.
Please feel free to come and take a look if you live in/near North Carolina. You will not be disappointed.

Im asking $650 or best REASONABLE/FAIR offer. Lathes in considerably worse condition sell for way more on ebay. So I really think this is a steal!!

Please check out the pictures and if you have any questions, please do not hesitate to ask.
If your interested in purchasing or making an offer I can also be reached via my email at Chillin4life187@...