Re: Sewing Machine Motor w/foot pedal?
You can start packing up the controller.? I bought it this morning.? I have a Machinex lathe, a compact 5 lathe, and a Taig mill, all with 90 - 125 volt dc motors.? I am sure I will use it on something.?? My Sherline lathe uses a similar control, and I find it works well with only a 2 speed belt drive.? If you have any tech data for the control, please copy it and send it along.? The mill uses collets and the compact 5 lathe has bolt on chucks, so I won't have to worry about things spinning off under dynamic braking.? The Sherline uses a screw on chuck and I have only had it try to come off once under braking when I forgot to make sure it was tight.?? I am a retired Air Force electronics tech, so I? am sure I can figure out the resistors, etc if I have good tech data.
Chuck Daldry
|
Re: Sewing Machine Motor w/foot pedal?
Hello:
I
would suggest a reversing switch. It is very handy to back out
taps. On my big lathe I often cut on the back side in reverse.
The chuck backing off is a risk, but if it is tight it should
stay put.
Carl.
On 9/25/2021 9:43 AM, Jkle379184 via
groups.io wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
" On my
power box I have two sockets for the motor - one direct from
the 24 V, the other from the speed controller. The direct one
has a forward/reverse switch, but not the speed controlled
connector. Reversing the power while the motor is still
spinning is a good way to blow up the speed controller."
Yes, not a good idea
to reverse unless completely stopped. Also on a lathe with a
threaded on chuck you have to be careful using reverse. I
used the color coded wires, Red +, Black - and just added
individual wire push connectors. So if needed , I could just
unhook and reverse the wires to reverse the motor, Something
that I have yet needed to do.
?Jeff
-----Original Message-----
From: Keith S. Angus <keithsangus@...>
To: Jkle379184 <jkle379184@...>;
[email protected]
Sent: Sat, Sep 25, 2021 5:23 am
Subject: Re: [Unimat] Sewing Machine Motor w/foot pedal?
On Fri, Sep 24, 2021 at 03:06 PM, Jkle379184 wrote:
?I seem to recall that the power supplies
were commonly used to power LED lighting. Here is a
photo of the Motor that I used, the box that I put
the controls in and a crude wiring schematic. I
added switch position to bypass the sped control to
run full speed.
The power supplies are often quoted as being suitable
for LEDs, but you'd need a lot of LEDs to justify 24V
at 10A! Really they are general purpose power supplies
- use them for whatever you like.
The speed control you are using is one of the ones I
suggested for Oldtoolmaker.
On my power box I have two sockets for the motor - one
direct from the 24 V, the other from the speed
controller. The direct one has a forward/reverse
switch, but not the speed controlled connector.
Reversing the power while the motor is still spinning
is a good way to blow up the speed controller.
>>Measured full output speed of this motor was
3431 RPM. I drilled out the pulley to 8mm and it fit
the motor shaft perfectly.
The higher power motors run a bit slower than the
lower power ones. I got a little over 4000 rpm from my
130 W motor. Somewhere or other this is documented by
the motor suppliers. As said before, I got about 6000
rpm at the chuck at the highest speed setting on the
pulleys.
If my motor had had the longer shaft I would have
opened up the pulley. Since the shaft was too short I
made an extension at 6 mm and left the pulley alone. I
arranged to drive it by pins, more or less as in the
original, and held it on with an M4 screw, as per the
original.
>>Some photos of the motor end plate mods and
the "top Hat" for the mounting screw all done on the
Unimat.
You have the motor with the brushes at the back. This
makes it easy to add the extra fixing hole to the
front plate without worrying about screws getting
mixed up with the wiring. Note that to modify the
plain front pate it is not necessary to dismantle the
motor completely - it is simpler to just take the
front plate off.That way you don't have to disturb the
brushes, and fight the magnets when getting the
armature out, and in again. If the brushes are at the
front then it needs a bit of thought how to modify it
without shorting out the electrics. That's one reason
why I used an adaptor plate and left the motor alone.
The Unimat motor has two M5 screws at 42 mm spacing.
The DC motor has three M5 holes on a 42 mm circle, so
you only need to add one M5 hole to fit the DC motor
to the Unimat bracket. You might get away with tapping
it straight into the motor end plate, but adding this
reinforcement is a good idea.
I had a big BANG lock-up on my SL, and after that the
motor bearings were shot. If you take the motor apart
consider replacing the bearings with good quality ones
(SKF, NSK, FAG, etc.) while you have the chance. At
least measure them up so you know what size may be
needed in future. I've forgotten what they were, but
it wasn't hard to find replacements.
>>Photos of the motor taken apart, easy to do,
just two long screws. Put the end plate with the
brushes over the armature shaft first and then put
that into the stator tube when putting it back
together. The modified end plate with the top hat
epoxy glued in place, drilled out and test mounted to
the Unimat bracket.? And the last one is the unit up
and running. Notice the drive belt. Just a plain old
Buna white O ring, they are cheap and work great. ?I
drilled the pulley out to 8mm to fit the shaft. Then I
drilled the pulley for a small set screw to fit the
flat section of the armature shaft. All work was done
on one of my Unimats. You could do this first and then
when done replace the Unimat motor with the 24vdc
motor when done.
Jeff
Mainly covered in comments above. If you take the
motor fully apart mark the end cover positions with a
dab of paint or similar. It helps to get the screws
back through if the covers are properly aligned. If I
was doing it again I would also file a small point on
the long screws, as that would help to get them into
the tapped holes in the end cover.
In general, if I had this motor to work with, I would
have done the job very much the same way. As it was,
the motor I had was significantly different, so I did
things differently. If you can get a motor like this
one (regardless of power) with the brushes at the back
end and with a long shaft, it will be simpler. I would
still recommend the 130 W motor, as it gives a bit
more space around the working area, and it goes a
little faster, but these are not the most important
things. I haven't seen many motors with the longer
shaft. I reckon it would be worth spending some time
searching for that, and the brushes at the back end,
The wiring can be even simpler than shown. I think the
direct power option is good, but I couldn't tell you
why. My power box was more complicated as it allows
for a range of possible, but unknown, other uses. The
biggest problem, in my experience of such things, is
finding a good size box for everything. I still favour
a wooden base under the lathe with the electrics
inside, but that means you have to build it, so it
depends on your woodworking skills. I used a
commercial equipment box, but, along with the 24 V PSU
that probably cost more than the motor and speed
control combined. Fortunately someone in industry owed
me some money/a favour, so I didn't feel the cost!
|
Re: Sewing Machine Motor w/foot pedal?
" On my power box I have two sockets for the motor - one direct from the 24 V, the other from the speed controller. The direct one has a forward/reverse switch, but not the speed controlled connector. Reversing the power while the motor is still spinning is a good way to blow up the speed controller."
Yes, not a good idea to reverse unless completely stopped. Also on a lathe with a threaded on chuck you have to be careful using reverse. I used the color coded wires, Red +, Black - and just added individual wire push connectors. So if needed , I could just unhook and reverse the wires to reverse the motor, Something that I have yet needed to do.
?Jeff
-----Original Message-----
From: Keith S. Angus <keithsangus@...>
To: Jkle379184 <jkle379184@...>; [email protected]
Sent: Sat, Sep 25, 2021 5:23 am
Subject: Re: [Unimat] Sewing Machine Motor w/foot pedal?
On Fri, Sep 24, 2021 at 03:06 PM, Jkle379184 wrote:
?I seem to recall that the power supplies were commonly used to power LED lighting. Here is a photo of the Motor that I used, the box that I put the controls in and a crude wiring schematic. I added switch position to bypass the sped control to run full speed.
The power supplies are often quoted as being suitable for LEDs, but you'd need a lot of LEDs to justify 24V at 10A! Really they are general purpose power supplies - use them for whatever you like. The speed control you are using is one of the ones I suggested for Oldtoolmaker. On my power box I have two sockets for the motor - one direct from the 24 V, the other from the speed controller. The direct one has a forward/reverse switch, but not the speed controlled connector. Reversing the power while the motor is still spinning is a good way to blow up the speed controller. >>Measured full output speed of this motor was 3431 RPM. I drilled out the pulley to 8mm and it fit the motor shaft perfectly. The higher power motors run a bit slower than the lower power ones. I got a little over 4000 rpm from my 130 W motor. Somewhere or other this is documented by the motor suppliers. As said before, I got about 6000 rpm at the chuck at the highest speed setting on the pulleys. If my motor had had the longer shaft I would have opened up the pulley. Since the shaft was too short I made an extension at 6 mm and left the pulley alone. I arranged to drive it by pins, more or less as in the original, and held it on with an M4 screw, as per the original. >>Some photos of the motor end plate mods and the "top Hat" for the mounting screw all done on the Unimat. You have the motor with the brushes at the back. This makes it easy to add the extra fixing hole to the front plate without worrying about screws getting mixed up with the wiring. Note that to modify the plain front pate it is not necessary to dismantle the motor completely - it is simpler to just take the front plate off.That way you don't have to disturb the brushes, and fight the magnets when getting the armature out, and in again. If the brushes are at the front then it needs a bit of thought how to modify it without shorting out the electrics. That's one reason why I used an adaptor plate and left the motor alone. The Unimat motor has two M5 screws at 42 mm spacing. The DC motor has three M5 holes on a 42 mm circle, so you only need to add one M5 hole to fit the DC motor to the Unimat bracket. You might get away with tapping it straight into the motor end plate, but adding this reinforcement is a good idea. I had a big BANG lock-up on my SL, and after that the motor bearings were shot. If you take the motor apart consider replacing the bearings with good quality ones (SKF, NSK, FAG, etc.) while you have the chance. At least measure them up so you know what size may be needed in future. I've forgotten what they were, but it wasn't hard to find replacements. >>Photos of the motor taken apart, easy to do, just two long screws. Put the end plate with the brushes over the armature shaft first and then put that into the stator tube when putting it back together. The modified end plate with the top hat epoxy glued in place, drilled out and test mounted to the Unimat bracket.? And the last one is the unit up and running. Notice the drive belt. Just a plain old Buna white O ring, they are cheap and work great. ?I drilled the pulley out to 8mm to fit the shaft. Then I drilled the pulley for a small set screw to fit the flat section of the armature shaft. All work was done on one of my Unimats. You could do this first and then when done replace the Unimat motor with the 24vdc motor when done. Jeff Mainly covered in comments above. If you take the motor fully apart mark the end cover positions with a dab of paint or similar. It helps to get the screws back through if the covers are properly aligned. If I was doing it again I would also file a small point on the long screws, as that would help to get them into the tapped holes in the end cover. In general, if I had this motor to work with, I would have done the job very much the same way. As it was, the motor I had was significantly different, so I did things differently. If you can get a motor like this one (regardless of power) with the brushes at the back end and with a long shaft, it will be simpler. I would still recommend the 130 W motor, as it gives a bit more space around the working area, and it goes a little faster, but these are not the most important things. I haven't seen many motors with the longer shaft. I reckon it would be worth spending some time searching for that, and the brushes at the back end, The wiring can be even simpler than shown. I think the direct power option is good, but I couldn't tell you why. My power box was more complicated as it allows for a range of possible, but unknown, other uses. The biggest problem, in my experience of such things, is finding a good size box for everything. I still favour a wooden base under the lathe with the electrics inside, but that means you have to build it, so it depends on your woodworking skills. I used a commercial equipment box, but, along with the 24 V PSU that probably cost more than the motor and speed control combined. Fortunately someone in industry owed me some money/a favour, so I didn't feel the cost!
|
Re: Sewing Machine Motor w/foot pedal?
Keith,
As I have no use for my KB motor control I listed it on EBay. ?
Dick
http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/?OFF-SET-tailstock-center-65965#post105972
?SMALL TURRET TOOL POST PLANS?
?LARGE TURRET TOOL POST PLANS
?MINI-LATHE CARRIAGE LOCK PLANS
?SMALL QC TOOL POST PLANS?
?QUICK CHANGE LATHE TURRET
?MINI LATHE COMPOUND PIVOT MODIFICATION
|
Re: Sewing Machine Motor w/foot pedal?
Jeff,
Thanks for posting the pictures. It helps to see and understand what you have done.
Dick
--
http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/?OFF-SET-tailstock-center-65965#post105972
?SMALL TURRET TOOL POST PLANS?
?LARGE TURRET TOOL POST PLANS
?MINI-LATHE CARRIAGE LOCK PLANS
?SMALL QC TOOL POST PLANS?
?QUICK CHANGE LATHE TURRET
?MINI LATHE COMPOUND PIVOT MODIFICATION
|
Re: Sewing Machine Motor w/foot pedal?
On Fri, Sep 24, 2021 at 03:06 PM, Jkle379184 wrote:
?I seem to recall that the power supplies were commonly used to power LED lighting. Here is a photo of the Motor that I used, the box that I put the controls in and a crude wiring schematic. I added switch position to bypass the sped control to run full speed.
The power supplies are often quoted as being suitable for LEDs, but you'd need a lot of LEDs to justify 24V at 10A! Really they are general purpose power supplies - use them for whatever you like. The speed control you are using is one of the ones I suggested for Oldtoolmaker. On my power box I have two sockets for the motor - one direct from the 24 V, the other from the speed controller. The direct one has a forward/reverse switch, but not the speed controlled connector. Reversing the power while the motor is still spinning is a good way to blow up the speed controller. >>Measured full output speed of this motor was 3431 RPM. I drilled out the pulley to 8mm and it fit the motor shaft perfectly. The higher power motors run a bit slower than the lower power ones. I got a little over 4000 rpm from my 130 W motor. Somewhere or other this is documented by the motor suppliers. As said before, I got about 6000 rpm at the chuck at the highest speed setting on the pulleys. If my motor had had the longer shaft I would have opened up the pulley. Since the shaft was too short I made an extension at 6 mm and left the pulley alone. I arranged to drive it by pins, more or less as in the original, and held it on with an M4 screw, as per the original. >>Some photos of the motor end plate mods and the "top Hat" for the mounting screw all done on the Unimat. You have the motor with the brushes at the back. This makes it easy to add the extra fixing hole to the front plate without worrying about screws getting mixed up with the wiring. Note that to modify the plain front pate it is not necessary to dismantle the motor completely - it is simpler to just take the front plate off.That way you don't have to disturb the brushes, and fight the magnets when getting the armature out, and in again. If the brushes are at the front then it needs a bit of thought how to modify it without shorting out the electrics. That's one reason why I used an adaptor plate and left the motor alone. The Unimat motor has two M5 screws at 42 mm spacing. The DC motor has three M5 holes on a 42 mm circle, so you only need to add one M5 hole to fit the DC motor to the Unimat bracket. You might get away with tapping it straight into the motor end plate, but adding this reinforcement is a good idea. I had a big BANG lock-up on my SL, and after that the motor bearings were shot. If you take the motor apart consider replacing the bearings with good quality ones (SKF, NSK, FAG, etc.) while you have the chance. At least measure them up so you know what size may be needed in future. I've forgotten what they were, but it wasn't hard to find replacements. >>Photos of the motor taken apart, easy to do, just two long screws. Put the end plate with the brushes over the armature shaft first and then put that into the stator tube when putting it back together. The modified end plate with the top hat epoxy glued in place, drilled out and test mounted to the Unimat bracket.? And the last one is the unit up and running. Notice the drive belt. Just a plain old Buna white O ring, they are cheap and work great. ?I drilled the pulley out to 8mm to fit the shaft. Then I drilled the pulley for a small set screw to fit the flat section of the armature shaft. All work was done on one of my Unimats. You could do this first and then when done replace the Unimat motor with the 24vdc motor when done. Jeff Mainly covered in comments above. If you take the motor fully apart mark the end cover positions with a dab of paint or similar. It helps to get the screws back through if the covers are properly aligned. If I was doing it again I would also file a small point on the long screws, as that would help to get them into the tapped holes in the end cover. In general, if I had this motor to work with, I would have done the job very much the same way. As it was, the motor I had was significantly different, so I did things differently. If you can get a motor like this one (regardless of power) with the brushes at the back end and with a long shaft, it will be simpler. I would still recommend the 130 W motor, as it gives a bit more space around the working area, and it goes a little faster, but these are not the most important things. I haven't seen many motors with the longer shaft. I reckon it would be worth spending some time searching for that, and the brushes at the back end, The wiring can be even simpler than shown. I think the direct power option is good, but I couldn't tell you why. My power box was more complicated as it allows for a range of possible, but unknown, other uses. The biggest problem, in my experience of such things, is finding a good size box for everything. I still favour a wooden base under the lathe with the electrics inside, but that means you have to build it, so it depends on your woodworking skills. I used a commercial equipment box, but, along with the 24 V PSU that probably cost more than the motor and speed control combined. Fortunately someone in industry owed me some money/a favour, so I didn't feel the cost!
|
Re: Sewing Machine Motor w/foot pedal?
Photos of the motor taken apart, easy to do, just two long screws. Put the end plate with the brushes over the armature shaft first and then put that into the stator tube when putting it back together. The modified end plate with the top hat epoxy glued in place, drilled out and test mounted to the Unimat bracket.? And the last one is the unit up and running. Notice the drive belt. Just a plain old Buna white O ring, they are cheap and work great.
?I drilled the pulley out to 8mm to fit the shaft. Then I drilled the pulley for a small set screw to fit the flat section of the armature shaft. All work was done on one of my Unimats. You could do this first and then when done replace the Unimat motor with the 24vdc motor when done.
Jeff
-----Original Message-----
From: Jkle379184 via groups.io <jkle379184@...>
To: [email protected] < [email protected]>
Sent: Fri, Sep 24, 2021 10:13 am
Subject: Re: [Unimat] Sewing Machine Motor w/foot pedal?
Some photos of the motor end plate mods and the "top Hat" for the mounting screw all done on the Unimat.
?Jeff
-----Original Message-----
From: Jkle379184 via groups.io <jkle379184@...>
To: [email protected] < [email protected]>
Sent: Fri, Sep 24, 2021 10:09 am
Subject: Re: [Unimat] Sewing Machine Motor w/foot pedal?
Measured full output speed of this motor was 3431 RPM. I drilled out the pulley to 8mm and it fit the motor shaft perfectly.
?Jeff
-----Original Message-----
From: Jkle379184 via groups.io <jkle379184@...>
To: [email protected] < [email protected]>
Sent: Fri, Sep 24, 2021 10:06 am
Subject: Re: [Unimat] Sewing Machine Motor w/foot pedal?
?I seem to recall that the power supplies were commonly used to power LED lighting. Here is a photo of the Motor that I used, the box that I put the controls in and a crude wiring schematic. I added switch position to bypass the sped control to run full speed.
?Jeff
?
-----Original Message-----
From: Keith S. Angus <keithsangus@...>
To: OldToolmaker <old_toolmaker@...>; [email protected]
Sent: Thu, Sep 23, 2021 9:33 pm
Subject: Re: [Unimat] Sewing Machine Motor w/foot pedal?
On Fri, Sep 24, 2021 at 01:44 AM, OldToolmaker wrote:
I bought two of the 150W 24volt dc brushed motors. The price was right.
I will look around on EBay for a 24 volt power supply and a speed control.
I am going to search back in your posts for your EBay recommendation for each.
I've had a look around on Ebay, specifically for units that will be simple to use, and, ideally, stocked in the USA. For a power supply, these four listings are for exactly the same thing, from USA sellers - make your choice based on price and delivery: Ebay item numbers, power supplies: 194317117950 353572057754 324322303966 333987863579 Speed controllers look to be more difficult - they are all coming from China. One type is very basic, but will do the job, and is simple to panel mount. Three suppliers of exactly the same thing: 154528849888 261313502852 224539756477 This type are more boxed up, and might suit you better. Again, all the same and all from China 274118435129 284233062492 154366376249 At the moment I can't find my way to USA surplus sellers who may have good stuff without waiting for delivery from China. Ah, here we are - standard speed controller, USA stock: https://www.allelectronics.com/item/msc-10/10a-dc-motor-speed-control/dimmer/1.html
|
Re: Sewing Machine Motor w/foot pedal?
Some photos of the motor end plate mods and the "top Hat" for the mounting screw all done on the Unimat.
?Jeff
-----Original Message-----
From: Jkle379184 via groups.io <jkle379184@...>
To: [email protected] < [email protected]>
Sent: Fri, Sep 24, 2021 10:09 am
Subject: Re: [Unimat] Sewing Machine Motor w/foot pedal?
Measured full output speed of this motor was 3431 RPM. I drilled out the pulley to 8mm and it fit the motor shaft perfectly.
?Jeff
-----Original Message-----
From: Jkle379184 via groups.io <jkle379184@...>
To: [email protected] < [email protected]>
Sent: Fri, Sep 24, 2021 10:06 am
Subject: Re: [Unimat] Sewing Machine Motor w/foot pedal?
?I seem to recall that the power supplies were commonly used to power LED lighting. Here is a photo of the Motor that I used, the box that I put the controls in and a crude wiring schematic. I added switch position to bypass the sped control to run full speed.
?Jeff
?
-----Original Message-----
From: Keith S. Angus <keithsangus@...>
To: OldToolmaker <old_toolmaker@...>; [email protected]
Sent: Thu, Sep 23, 2021 9:33 pm
Subject: Re: [Unimat] Sewing Machine Motor w/foot pedal?
On Fri, Sep 24, 2021 at 01:44 AM, OldToolmaker wrote:
I bought two of the 150W 24volt dc brushed motors. The price was right.
I will look around on EBay for a 24 volt power supply and a speed control.
I am going to search back in your posts for your EBay recommendation for each.
I've had a look around on Ebay, specifically for units that will be simple to use, and, ideally, stocked in the USA. For a power supply, these four listings are for exactly the same thing, from USA sellers - make your choice based on price and delivery: Ebay item numbers, power supplies: 194317117950 353572057754 324322303966 333987863579 Speed controllers look to be more difficult - they are all coming from China. One type is very basic, but will do the job, and is simple to panel mount. Three suppliers of exactly the same thing: 154528849888 261313502852 224539756477 This type are more boxed up, and might suit you better. Again, all the same and all from China 274118435129 284233062492 154366376249 At the moment I can't find my way to USA surplus sellers who may have good stuff without waiting for delivery from China. Ah, here we are - standard speed controller, USA stock: https://www.allelectronics.com/item/msc-10/10a-dc-motor-speed-control/dimmer/1.html
|
Re: Sewing Machine Motor w/foot pedal?
Measured full output speed of this motor was 3431 RPM. I drilled out the pulley to 8mm and it fit the motor shaft perfectly.
?Jeff
-----Original Message-----
From: Jkle379184 via groups.io <jkle379184@...>
To: [email protected] < [email protected]>
Sent: Fri, Sep 24, 2021 10:06 am
Subject: Re: [Unimat] Sewing Machine Motor w/foot pedal?
?I seem to recall that the power supplies were commonly used to power LED lighting. Here is a photo of the Motor that I used, the box that I put the controls in and a crude wiring schematic. I added switch position to bypass the sped control to run full speed.
?Jeff
?
-----Original Message-----
From: Keith S. Angus <keithsangus@...>
To: OldToolmaker <old_toolmaker@...>; [email protected]
Sent: Thu, Sep 23, 2021 9:33 pm
Subject: Re: [Unimat] Sewing Machine Motor w/foot pedal?
On Fri, Sep 24, 2021 at 01:44 AM, OldToolmaker wrote:
I bought two of the 150W 24volt dc brushed motors. The price was right.
I will look around on EBay for a 24 volt power supply and a speed control.
I am going to search back in your posts for your EBay recommendation for each.
I've had a look around on Ebay, specifically for units that will be simple to use, and, ideally, stocked in the USA. For a power supply, these four listings are for exactly the same thing, from USA sellers - make your choice based on price and delivery: Ebay item numbers, power supplies: 194317117950 353572057754 324322303966 333987863579 Speed controllers look to be more difficult - they are all coming from China. One type is very basic, but will do the job, and is simple to panel mount. Three suppliers of exactly the same thing: 154528849888 261313502852 224539756477 This type are more boxed up, and might suit you better. Again, all the same and all from China 274118435129 284233062492 154366376249 At the moment I can't find my way to USA surplus sellers who may have good stuff without waiting for delivery from China. Ah, here we are - standard speed controller, USA stock: https://www.allelectronics.com/item/msc-10/10a-dc-motor-speed-control/dimmer/1.html
|
Re: Sewing Machine Motor w/foot pedal?
?I seem to recall that the power supplies were commonly used to power LED lighting. Here is a photo of the Motor that I used, the box that I put the controls in and a crude wiring schematic. I added switch position to bypass the sped control to run full speed.
-----Original Message-----
From: Keith S. Angus <keithsangus@...>
To: OldToolmaker <old_toolmaker@...>; [email protected]
Sent: Thu, Sep 23, 2021 9:33 pm
Subject: Re: [Unimat] Sewing Machine Motor w/foot pedal?
On Fri, Sep 24, 2021 at 01:44 AM, OldToolmaker wrote:
I bought two of the 150W 24volt dc brushed motors. The price was right.
I will look around on EBay for a 24 volt power supply and a speed control.
I am going to search back in your posts for your EBay recommendation for each.
I've had a look around on Ebay, specifically for units that will be simple to use, and, ideally, stocked in the USA. For a power supply, these four listings are for exactly the same thing, from USA sellers - make your choice based on price and delivery: Ebay item numbers, power supplies: 194317117950 353572057754 324322303966 333987863579 Speed controllers look to be more difficult - they are all coming from China. One type is very basic, but will do the job, and is simple to panel mount. Three suppliers of exactly the same thing: 154528849888 261313502852 224539756477 This type are more boxed up, and might suit you better. Again, all the same and all from China 274118435129 284233062492 154366376249 At the moment I can't find my way to USA surplus sellers who may have good stuff without waiting for delivery from China. Ah, here we are - standard speed controller, USA stock: https://www.allelectronics.com/item/msc-10/10a-dc-motor-speed-control/dimmer/1.html
|
Re: Sewing Machine Motor w/foot pedal?
On Fri, Sep 24, 2021 at 01:44 AM, OldToolmaker wrote:
I bought two of the 150W 24volt dc brushed motors. The price was right.
I will look around on EBay for a 24 volt power supply and a speed control.
I am going to search back in your posts for your EBay recommendation for each.
I've had a look around on Ebay, specifically for units that will be simple to use, and, ideally, stocked in the USA. For a power supply, these four listings are for exactly the same thing, from USA sellers - make your choice based on price and delivery: Ebay item numbers, power supplies: 194317117950 353572057754 324322303966 333987863579 Speed controllers look to be more difficult - they are all coming from China. One type is very basic, but will do the job, and is simple to panel mount. Three suppliers of exactly the same thing: 154528849888 261313502852 224539756477 This type are more boxed up, and might suit you better. Again, all the same and all from China 274118435129 284233062492 154366376249 At the moment I can't find my way to USA surplus sellers who may have good stuff without waiting for delivery from China. Ah, here we are - standard speed controller, USA stock: https://www.allelectronics.com/item/msc-10/10a-dc-motor-speed-control/dimmer/1.html
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Re: Sewing Machine Motor w/foot pedal?
Keith,?
I bought two of the 150W 24volt dc brushed motors. The price was right.
I will look around on EBay for a 24 volt power supply and a speed control.
I am going to search back in your posts for your EBay recommendation for each.
I can¡¯t thank you enough for all your patience and the guidance you have given me this far!!!
I have received an education.
Dick
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Re: Sewing Machine Motor w/foot pedal?
?If you use 150w motor, a 200w power supply is more then enough. You will find that the power supplies under rated and are designed to take a brief overload without blowing.
?Jeff
-----Original Message-----
From: ddmckee54@...
To: OldToolmaker <old_toolmaker@...>; [email protected]
Sent: Thu, Sep 23, 2021 3:40 pm
Subject: Re: [Unimat] Sewing Machine Motor w/foot pedal?
The type of motor, and the type of DC drive must match up, maybe not exactly match in all ratings but they should be close.? A motor with brushes requires "brushed" DC drive, and a brushless motor needs a brushless drive.? The output of the drive should closely match the motor.
The voltage of the drive should probably be less than or equal to 150% of the motor voltage.? You can run a 36 volt motor with a 24 volt drive with no problem other than you'll never get to the rated motor rpm.? You can run a 24 volt motor with a 36 volt drive, and it'll PROBABLY run for a long time.? If you do that your motor rpm will be about 150% of the rated speed which won't do the bearings any favors.? In industry we commonly overspeed motors if we have to, within reason,?but this does shorten the motor life.
You'll also need to be sure the drive can handle the current draw of the motor.??If you've got an amp rating for both the motor and the drive, if the drive can output 125%-150% of the motor's amp rating you're golden.? If the drive is less that 125% of the motor's rating it might run the motor, but it wiill be struggling.? A drive with a larger rating WILL run a smaller motor.? The other way around and is not so much, something is gonna go poof.
What to you do when the motor is rated in one unit and the drive is rated in another?? Then you resort to that subject that most people think they'll never use once they get out of school - math.? Motors and drives will usually be rated in either Horspower, Amps, or Watts, and these values can be converted from one to the other.
Horsepower = Watts / 746
Watts = Volts * Amps (This isn't exactly true for a motor since it's not a purely resistive load, but for estimation purposes it's close enough.)??
What do you do if the drive ratings are listed in volts and amps, and your motor is rated in horsepower?? Then you convert the drive's ratings to watts by multiplying the drive volts times the drive amps to get watts.? Divide that result by 746 and you get an estimate of the drive's horspower.? Again, if the drive rating is at least 125%-150% of the motor rating then as long as we don't do anything stupid the drive should be able to run that motor for years.
Don
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Re: Sewing Machine Motor w/foot pedal?
The type of motor, and the type of DC drive must match up, maybe not exactly match in all ratings but they should be close.? A motor with brushes requires "brushed" DC drive, and a brushless motor needs a brushless drive.? The output of the drive should closely match the motor.
The voltage of the drive should probably be less than or equal to 150% of the motor voltage.? You can run a 36 volt motor with a 24 volt drive with no problem other than you'll never get to the rated motor rpm.? You can run a 24 volt motor with a 36 volt drive, and it'll PROBABLY run for a long time.? If you do that your motor rpm will be about 150% of the rated speed which won't do the bearings any favors.? In industry we commonly overspeed motors if we have to, within reason,?but this does shorten the motor life.
You'll also need to be sure the drive can handle the current draw of the motor.??If you've got an amp rating for both the motor and the drive, if the drive can output 125%-150% of the motor's amp rating you're golden.? If the drive is less that 125% of the motor's rating it might run the motor, but it wiill be struggling.? A drive with a larger rating WILL run a smaller motor.? The other way around and is not so much, something is gonna go poof.
What to you do when the motor is rated in one unit and the drive is rated in another?? Then you resort to that subject that most people think they'll never use once they get out of school - math.? Motors and drives will usually be rated in either Horspower, Amps, or Watts, and these values can be converted from one to the other.
Horsepower = Watts / 746
Watts = Volts * Amps (This isn't exactly true for a motor since it's not a purely resistive load, but for estimation purposes it's close enough.)??
What do you do if the drive ratings are listed in volts and amps, and your motor is rated in horsepower?? Then you convert the drive's ratings to watts by multiplying the drive volts times the drive amps to get watts.? Divide that result by 746 and you get an estimate of the drive's horspower.? Again, if the drive rating is at least 125%-150% of the motor rating then as long as we don't do anything stupid the drive should be able to run that motor for years.
Don
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Re: Sewing Machine Motor w/foot pedal?
The two wire 24 V DC motors are brushed - the muttering about brushless motors has been a red herring? - the KB controller would not run any of them. Brushless motors need their own specialised electronics.
Some long time ago I listed a 24 V power supply rated at 10 Amps, and a speed controller to use with it, both available on Ebay USA. If they are still available they will do the job.
Definitely a 24 V DC 10 Amp power supply. Simple as that. Most have a "universal" mains supply that will take anything from 100 to 230 V. A few may have a voltage selector switch.
For the speed control look for one with 10 Amp rating, and a voltage range which includes 24 V. The one I use is specifically designed for 24 V. I have another which handles up to 90 V (at 10 amps), so that is fine too. The higher voltage does have the advantage that the speed controller is less likely to burn out on overload. It is also much simpler to wire up than the other one. Two wires in, two out is all you need. There are some, from electric bikes for example, that have loads of wires. You don't need any of that complication.
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Re: Sewing Machine Motor w/foot pedal?
Keith,
I contacted KB Electronics by phone today and was advised directly by a customer service manager that I cannot run a 24 volt dc motor with the KBMD motor control I have. There is no way to get the output voltage down to 24 volts. Now that I know that, I will need to buy a 24 volt DC power controller which is available on EBay I am told.
I will buy the motor today and search out a controller for a 24 volt dc motor.?
Does it make any difference if I use a ¡°brush¡± or ¡°brushless¡± motor?
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Re: Sewing Machine Motor w/foot pedal?
Hello
Dick:
U90
motors have some demand, you might recoup your costs by
selling them.
Personally
I would keep them as spares. I'm still using my U90, but
bought a replacement DC motor ( 30 years ago, U90 hasn't even
slowed down. )
Carl.
On 9/21/2021 9:36 PM, OldToolmaker via
groups.io wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Jeff,
Thanks much for your answer! I think I am going to pull the
trigger and buy two of those motors tomorrow.?
I am going to replace the two U90 motors I have now. The U90
motors are old but have seen little use.
Dick
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forum/?OFF-SET-tailstock-center-65965#post105972
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PLANS?
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PLANS
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LOCK PLANS
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?QUICK CHANGE LATHE TURRET
?MINI LATHE COMPOUND PIVOT
MODIFICATION
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Re: Sewing Machine Motor w/foot pedal?
Jeff,
Thanks much for your answer! I think I am going to pull the trigger and buy two of those motors tomorrow.?
I am going to replace the two U90 motors I have now. The U90 motors are old but have seen little use.
Dick
--
http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/?OFF-SET-tailstock-center-65965#post105972
?SMALL TURRET TOOL POST PLANS?
?LARGE TURRET TOOL POST PLANS
?MINI-LATHE CARRIAGE LOCK PLANS
?SMALL QC TOOL POST PLANS?
?QUICK CHANGE LATHE TURRET
?MINI LATHE COMPOUND PIVOT MODIFICATION
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Re: Sewing Machine Motor w/foot pedal?
Yes and yes. It is quieter then the stock Unimat motor by far. I just went down stairs and ran both. Just using these 66 years old ears, it seems to make less then 1/2 the noise the stock motor does. I have several Unimats. The DC motor is the quietest and the smoothest sounding of all of them.?
?Jeff
-----Original Message-----
From: OldToolmaker via groups.io <old_toolmaker@...>
To: Jkle379184 <jkle379184@...>; [email protected]
Sent: Tue, Sep 21, 2021 4:31 pm
Subject: Re: [Unimat] Sewing Machine Motor w/foot pedal?
Jeff,
This scooter listed on EBay motor you recommend (ZY6812 24vdc 150w? motor) is listed as a brush motor. Does it run smoothly and quiet??
Thanks, Dick
?MINI LATHE COMPOUND PIVOT MODIFICATION
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Re: Sewing Machine Motor w/foot pedal?
Jeff,
This scooter listed on EBay motor you recommend (ZY6812 24vdc 150w? motor) is listed as a brush motor. Does it run smoothly and quiet??
Thanks, Dick
?MINI LATHE COMPOUND PIVOT MODIFICATION
|
Carl
OldToolmaker
