Its ok, Richard, I am an Amazon Prime member too, but happy to know where to find the show.
Tamra
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Tamra, I was incorrect earlier, Grimm is on Amazon Prime. ?Thanks.
On Wednesday, March 4, 2020, 08:14:56 AM EST, Tamra <tamrabrogdon@...> wrote:
I didn't know Grimm was on Netflix... if it is still on during the summer we will binge watch it again.? I liked all the gadgets in the show, would be fun to make them in miniature...
The Unimat is also on display at the Kansas City Toy & Miniature Museum, and master Miniaturist Wm Robertson is using it for their informational interactive video at the museum.
Tamra
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I didn't know Grimm was on Netflix... if it is still on during the summer we will binge watch it again.? I liked all the gadgets in the show, would be fun to make them in miniature...
The Unimat is also on display at the Kansas City Toy & Miniature Museum, and master Miniaturist Wm Robertson is using it for their informational interactive video at the museum.
Tamra
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Re: Unimat sl 3 jaw Chuck disassembly/ reassembly
Willl do Carl.? Thanks for the info!
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Re: Unimat sl 3 jaw Chuck disassembly/ reassembly
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On 3/3/2020 3:43 AM, Carl wrote: Hello His:
It is easy. Turn the scroll until the jaws are free. They are numbered
1,2,3. Turn them around. Watch the scroll for the start of the thread
and put the jaws back in 3,2,1. Run the jaws to the center, if you did
right the jaws will all get there at the same time.
Carl.
Sent from my NOOK
david@... wrote:
Want to flip the jaws around to receive a larger work piece but don't
want to tear anything up.? ?Tia.
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Re: Unimat sl 3 jaw Chuck disassembly/ reassembly
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Re: Unimat sl 3 jaw Chuck disassembly/ reassembly
Hello His:
It is easy. Turn the scroll until the jaws are free. They are numbered 1,2,3. Turn them around. Watch the scroll for the start of the thread and put the jaws back in 3,2,1. Run the jaws to the center, if you did right the jaws will all get there at the same time.
Carl.
Sent from my NOOK
david@... wrote:
Want to flip the jaws around to receive a larger work piece but don't want to tear anything up.? ?Tia.
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Unimat sl 3 jaw Chuck disassembly/ reassembly
Want to flip the jaws around to receive a larger work piece but don't want to tear anything up.? ?Tia.
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??? "Be careful what you wish for...You may get it!"?? A
professional machinist friend scored a 10 HP industrial lathe at a
good price. Set it up in his garage with a rotary converter and
started working. Was horrified when he got his first bill. Set it
up running and went to see the meter spin as a blur! Sold the
machine to an industrial user!??? ??? Bill in Boulder CO USA
On 3/2/20 4:15 PM, Keith S. Angus via
Groups.Io wrote:
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On Mon, Mar 2, 2020 at 06:46 PM, OldToolmaker wrote:
I have a DC motor control rated at 90 volt input. ?I
have not found a reasonably priced motor to pair it with. Most
likely a treadmill motor would work but they are expensive on
EBay.
The voltage doesn't matter - it's the power that counts. I reckon
for the DB/SL and U3 about 100 to 150 watts is fine. I wouldn't go
for more. The treadmill motors I see on Ebay are much higher
power, inconveniently high voltage and too high on price. The
typical 24 V scooter motors like Ebay item 174101982818 is very
suitable. 24 volts is easy to work with, the motor fits in the
available space (both DB/SL & U3), 120 watt is all the power
you need and it's affordable.
Keith
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On Mon, Mar 2, 2020 at 06:46 PM, OldToolmaker wrote:
I have a DC motor control rated at 90 volt input. ?I have not found a reasonably priced motor to pair it with. Most likely a treadmill motor would work but they are expensive on EBay.
The voltage doesn't matter - it's the power that counts. I reckon for the DB/SL and U3 about 100 to 150 watts is fine. I wouldn't go for more. The treadmill motors I see on Ebay are much higher power, inconveniently high voltage and too high on price. The typical 24 V scooter motors like Ebay item 174101982818 is very suitable. 24 volts is easy to work with, the motor fits in the available space (both DB/SL & U3), 120 watt is all the power you need and it's affordable. Keith
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It¡¯s all in the gearing!
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Look at motors for invalid/elderly scooters. They're mostly 24 VDC, compact, and quite powerful. They can push a 300 lb person up a hill!
Hi Keith
Thanks for the reply.
What is the actual size is the motor that comes with the Unimat PC.
I was thinking of putting a 24v DC motor is as they are very popular, but if they are too big it's a no-go.
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here in Cleveland we have HGR a resale place from lathes to pieces. I have both the controllers for my SB 10H and others I can reduce my speed to 5 revs, but you better get one rater more than you AC one I ended putting on a 2 HP motor to replace my 3/4hp on on the 10. Dave
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I have a DC motor control rated at 90 volt input. ?I have not found a reasonably priced motor to pair it with. Most likely a treadmill motor would work but they are expensive on EBay.
Dick
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I have a DC motor control rated at 90 volt input. ?I have not found a reasonably priced motor to pair it with. Most likely a treadmill motor would work but they are expensive on EBay.
Dick
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Kool - I really liked Grimm...
-Guy-
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On March 1, 2020 at 9:11 AM "RICHARD WIECKOWICZ via Groups.Io" <tmdlbears@...> wrote:
Watched the TV show Grimm on NBC for several years and just rewatched Season 1, episode 1 on Netflix. ?Note that the clockmaker has a green Unimat on his workbench in the background.
?
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Re: Unimat SL lead screw not looking right
I was undoubtedly lucky, but I just used my eyes and hands to straighten my leadscrew... -Guy-
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Re: Unimat SL lead screw not looking right
There are also taps and dies that do not cut metal, but just push damaged threads back into correct position. -Guy-
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On Sun, Mar 1, 2020 at 11:16 PM, luifri@... wrote:
Found soon if you think the motor is to weak you are working with a wrong tool, a tool not sharp enough, the speed or chisel angle is not right..
Before mounting a more powerful motor think twice - there are parts in your lathe not built for.
Seen by the age of the UniPC the risk of ruining the plastic gears ..of course you can replace them by metal..
Regards, Lui
?
I know what you mean and I have already advised other people not to go mad and fit huge motors to little lathes. The standard Basic/PC motor is 40 W, and is generally thought to be too weak. The DB/SL and U3 use motors of about 90 W, and my old SL was fine with a 130 W DC motor, so I'm sure the Basic can take something a bit more powerful. The problem with the PC is that the stepper motors are very weak as well and could not deal with deeper cuts - in that sense they match the main motor. By fitting a more powerful main motor it will be possible to fit more modern, and stronger, stepper motors for the computer control and remove metal faster. I'm sure the structure of the lathe will be strong enough to take it, but I will be careful anyway. I'm used to these small lathes, so I don't think I will have a problem. The plastic gears are not so easy to replace with metal or anything else - they are 0.75 Mod, which is uncommon. I have only found one supplier who lists them as available, although I'm sure I could find someone to make them to order, at a high price. However, if I convert to NC I would hope to find a CNC programme which includes thread cutting, so the gears would not be needed. Also the only gears I have are the set for cutting inch (tpi) threads, and I only use metric. Since it is difficult to get the gears I don't think I will ever use any! Keith
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Used my UniPCs? to make tools and parts from steel, titanium, brass as well as POM and other plastic materials since the Uni came out. Both, the manual and CNC have still their original motors
Found soon if you think the motor is to weak you are working with a wrong tool, a tool not sharp enough, the speed or chisel angle is not right..
Before mounting a more powerful motor think twice - there are parts in your lathe not built for.
Seen by the age of the UniPC the risk of ruining the plastic gears ..of course you can replace them by metal..
Regards, Lui
Zitat von "Keith? S. Angus via Groups.Io" <ksangus@...>:
> The standard motor is 48 mm diameter. The holes it fits through are not much bigger, 52 mm I think, and there is not much scope to open them up. Once the motor gets much bigger their is nowhere to put it except outside the headstock.
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The standard motor is 48 mm diameter. The holes it fits through are not much bigger, 52 mm I think, and there is not much scope to open them up. Once the motor gets much bigger their is nowhere to put it except outside the headstock. I should mention that I know where to find a suitable motor, but I think it costs too much. Maxon do a range of motors at 45 mm diameter, 12, 18, 24, 36 & 48 V, max revs from about 5000 to about 10000, but they cost over ?500 and need a separate drive circuit which I think costs another ?70. Say ?600 for the pair. Then the motor has a large terminal box on the end but I think it would just about fit. The 250 W version would fit better in a sense, in that it is longer, but unless such a motor turns up in someone's junk box it's all a bit academic.
I did find a website which gave some motor details in sensible numbers, but then I could see no way to relate a suitable drive to the motors. Unfortunately our local RC shop, which used to be large and comprehensive, has turned to mainly mail order. I'm sure they have something on the shelf that would do the job, but they no longer chat to customers over the counter.
Years ago someone here said he had successfully used an RC motor on a Unimat, I think a DB/SL, but never gave details of what he had used. It's all a bit frustrating.
Keith
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Tamra
Carl
firefite Roenigk
OldToolmaker