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??? ??? Keith, I share your frustration in trying to get data on the R/C model motors. They seem to operate in some non SI universe. Should you succeed in ferreting out the specs please share it.? Baffled Bill in Boulder!

Hi Keith
Thanks for the reply.
What is the actual size is the motor that comes with the Unimat PC.
I was thinking of putting a 24v DC motor is as they are very popular, but if they are too big it's a no-go.

Hi Peter.
Thanks for the photos.
It looks a nice setup. Is that a Unimat 3?

I intend to replace the motor on mine soon. I searched for a long time before I came to the conclusion you can't get a more powerful motor that fits in the hole for the original one, unless you go to RC model motors. They claim phenomenal power in a small space, but don't last long. However, in this application they would run well below rated power, so they might last a bit longer. I have never been able to get enough information on a possible motor and a driver all together to know what to buy. It's a bit frustrating as the RC crowd work in strange units, of LIPO cells and Kv figures. Some proper data on power, current, torque and voltage would be useful, preferably with some performance curves.

I have got a powerful brushless DC motor and driver that should eat the job, but it will need to be fitted outside the casing, roughly where the power supply is at the moment. That will mean redoing the belts. I will make pulleys for plain belts, as the toothed belts are so noisy. I'm also looking to see if I can devise a proper back gear for low speeds. I used to work with a mill that had it built into the final pulley, but that was a bit bigger than the Basic lathe. The motor runs up to 12000 revs, so I would gear it for that as the maximum speed. Allow for a 2:1 range on the speed control and have a second pulley for half speed, maybe another one after that, then back gear for really low revs. Then the aim is to put modern NC onto it.

It might take a bit of doing - it might never get done!


Keith

Thanks Peter.
Did the mod need any special machining to mount the motor any further away?
I don't suppose you have any photos do you?

Hi All

I have a unimat SL that works fine but is just a bit too small.

I was thinking about the Unimat PC but the motors are under-powered.

Is it a big job to change the motor for a 24v DC, has anybody done it?

Thanks

Watched the TV show Grimm on NBC for several years and just rewatched Season 1, episode 1 on Netflix. ?Note that the clockmaker has a green Unimat on his workbench in the background.

It'll cost me $56 for shipping of the $25 part

Per Lathe City specs: Lead screw M8-1.0 left hand.
()

But it might be easier and cheaper to just buy a new lead screw.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Unimat-DB-SL-Mini-Lathe-Lead-Screw-Ref-DB201-5/133336735349?hash=item1f0b7d1e75:g:8kIAAOSwfzJeSnQb

http://www.tomstoolstore.com/unimat-leadscrew-key-no-4/

THat is indeed the slitting saw/table saw arbor.? Match the bore of your blades to your arbor.? If you need to make an arbor patterned after the one pictured adjusting to fit gear cutters , slitting saws etc.

Hi:
To straighten a shaft, roll it on a flat surface. You will know if it bumps. Then if you have an arbor press, put the shaft between two V blocks with hump high in the center. Press it gently down. At work we would put an indicator on the press. We would press just a bit more each time until the shaft was straight.
Carl.
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"Peter ashby via Groups.Io" <aescinga.pgen@...> wrote:

Hi:
You could try a thread file. They don't care if the thread is left or right handed. You just need one with a 1mm pitch, the files I have, have 8 different pitches on them. 25 TPI might work OK.
Carl.


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