I've stripped the whole thing down and reassembled. Bushes are fine and very little carbon build up. I will go through at some point and try rebuild it and rewire but for now I have ordered a replacement 24V DC motor and peripherals for a reasonable price.?

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Check that the brushes are still good & check how much carbon build up is in the motor.

Capacitors may be shot too.

Both can trip circuit protection.

When you pull the motor apart place indexing marks or take some pics to ensure that you put everything together correctly.

Flipping a field coil or other parts upside down or around 180 degrees is possible with many motors & may cause problems or make it run the wrong direction.

It helps to draw a diagram or take pics to make sure wires go back where they don't rub or get pinched.

Regards,
Brian.

I had to repair the capacitor in mine wasn’t a hard job just split the motor casing and swap out the capacitor while your there clean you can clean out the carbon dust and replace the brushes....

original brushes are still available, while I was in there I also replaced the original cable. These jobs I must point out I didn’t do until i did a full restoration of my machine, which also included new headstock bearings, paint job etc...

it’s a cheaper option if u want to keep the original motor.

Thanks,

Mine trips the power the second I turn it on. I get the feeling the capacitor is shot as everything else looks fine. I've done some reading since I originally posted and I'm going to install a 24v DC motor, power supply, PWM, add a tachometer too and box it all up. Can buy all the parts for ~$100 AUD (?50).?

I'll try find a descent switch locally too.

Thanks again

I forgot to mention my NVR switch was ?20 it’s a single phase NVR without E stop but you can fit one with if you want, I find it pointless since the has to braking function anyway so it wouldn’t really be a ?e stop....

be aware of the cheap Chinese “nvr switches” one eBay theyalways claims to be single phase but are three phase... ask me how I know that ?....

I got mine from Axminstermachines Uk,?

Mine did the same....
?At first I thought it was the original switch as it tripped more often when I flicked the machine on, so I swapped it out to an NVR switch unit...

that for the most part seamed the fix the issues of it not tripping out the electrics when turning it on, however I have tripped the power since then and I worked out very fast that’s it’s to do with the motor load, if you hear that motor stalling stop!!!

im using the original U90 motor so it’s very clear when I do something bone headed the motor starts to stall....

also remember the motor should only run for 8mins then requires a 10 min cool down period, this is in the manual...

I run 230 Uk supply just for some FYI...

so try swapping out to an NVr switch ( it’s better anyway wihh thy a big red thump it and off button) and watch your not overloading the motor with to deep of cut, drilling speeds wrong and binding etc...?

if the motors slowing during any operation then your going to aggressive.

on a side note I’ve yet to trip e house electrics since watching the machine and learning it’s quirks, but also I’ve got a trip / breaker?switch fitted to the plug now so it trips that now rather than the house should I do something dumb.

Dick,

Look in the files section for:

unimat3 threading attachment.pdf

Uni 4 threading attachment.pdf?

They are both the same. A hand cranked threading solution for the U3.

?

Brian In Spokane, WA USA

2nd try

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Just purchased a Emco Unimat SL and it keeps tripping the power in my house. Any ideas as to why?
I'm in Australia so we use 240v single phase 10A. Motor details KUS 99, 240V, 95W, Mot.Nr: 752953

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I ask because I am going to let one go, the 7750 seems to run more quietly. The U90 seems to spin at higher rpm??

I have one made for the job. It uses simple gearing to get metric pitches down to 0.5 mm. It would need substantial modification to get finer pitches or inch threading in tpi. It works using a crank handle on the spindle, rather than being motor driven.

The gears for the Basic lathe use 17 tooth gears to get close enough to inch pitches, but not many of them. If you have definite pitch requirements check that you can get them with whatever gearing you choose. There are clever ways to get inch pitches on metric lead screws and vice versa, and more obscure things like Mod and DP pitches, without using large gears like 127 tooth.

The U3 uses 1 Mod gears which are easy enough to get. The Basic uses 0.75 Mod, which are quite difficult to find.

Keith

Where was I when this topic was posted?? I was just looking at the photos and Martin found the deal of the year!

Soooo... how are the little uni(s) doing now???

Tamra

Don't see the original question. Was there one??

Some links: