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If you are interested in making stuff out of Aluminum, brass, steel & cast iron, you won't be in the minority very long, as you will be upgrading to a DB, SL, or #3.
Mert

mertbaker@...

Hi

Welcome to the Group
First I should warn you that the last member
admitting to owning a Uni Classic has I believe left
the building in a bit of a huff. However this is a new
year, and I assume as your profile indicates, that you
are a female hobbyist, so I'm sure we have all turned
over a new leaf and will do our best to be helpful.
Right Group???
The problem as I see it with the Classic, is the
advertising copy, and to a certain degree the price
for these smaller Uni's leads the newbie into
thinking they are more capable than they really are.
Having said that however, they seem to be well
designed and a good learning tool, and if you
approach it as a challenge, you will find it can be
a useful machine within its capabilities.
There is a group dedicated to this lathe, but the
last time I looked in on them it was a bit of a ghost
town.
Give us a try and be patient with our responses, as
even though using any size lathe has similarities,
I doubt that many members have any experience
with this model.

Regards
Art



--- In UNIMAT@..., "mrspost2u" <mrspost2u@...> wrote:

I'm the proud owner of a Unimat Classic (as of this Christmas) and
haven't had much of a chance to play with it yet.

I've seen that a lot of this board deals with the beefier models.

Am

I going to be in the minority here with my Classic?

Has anyone made gear hobs according to the instructions in chapter two
in the "Making the Most of the Unimat" book by Rex Tingey?

For those of us not at that level yet, is there a good source of gear
hobs that work on the Unimat that people recommend?

Thanks.

- Tom

I'm the proud owner of a Unimat Classic (as of this Christmas) and
haven't had much of a chance to play with it yet.

I've seen that a lot of this board deals with the beefier models. Am
I going to be in the minority here with my Classic?

This must be the one he made reference to.



I always wondered (until now) if this type would work well with
a Unimat.

Norm

--- In UNIMAT@..., "J E TOBEY" <jetobey@...> wrote:

Tim- I use the A2Z Quick Change Toolpost on one of my Uni's. They

are about $98 with shipping. Google for it. On the advice of the
manufacturer, when I bought a second one, I ordered the one for the
Atlas. This is quite a coincidence since my first one was transferred
from my Atlas 618. All it took was a T nut in the 1/4 20 that fit the
cross slide of the UNI. If you have a 6mm socket head screw of
appropriate length, then a nut from a UNI hold-down clamp is perfect.
These are top quality CNC products. Good luck. JET

----- Original Message -----
From: Tim<mailto:sgt_tim1@...>
To: UNIMAT@...<mailto:UNIMAT@...>
Sent: Monday, January 22, 2007 10:28 AM
Subject: [UNIMAT] Adjustable Tool Post for the Unimat SL-1000


I am in need of an Adjustable Tool Post.

I don't have the experience, material, or tools to make one on my own
nor do I want to try.

Fishing for one on Ebay is starving me to death.

Does anyone know of a person, place, or website that sells after
market adjustable tool posts that will fit the Unimat SL-1000?

I would appreciate any advise or direction.

Thanks

Tim





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I make one. $65 postpaid in the 48. Pic of the one on my DB200 on request direct, off list.
Mert

mertbaker@...

Hello Clay,

Thanks for the info and a demonstration technique for the twisted best
design. I had always wondered how it was done. I suspect others had
the same question.

Best, Cary Stewart

Tim:

Mert Baker makes a very nice adjustable tool post for only $65. I don't recall his exact email address but he will no doubt see your posting and inform you.


John Whipple

Tim <sgt_tim1@...> wrote:
I am in need of an Adjustable Tool Post.

I don't have the experience, material, or tools to make one on my own
nor do I want to try.

Fishing for one on Ebay is starving me to death.

Does anyone know of a person, place, or website that sells after
market adjustable tool posts that will fit the Unimat SL-1000?

I would appreciate any advise or direction.

Thanks

Tim

Tim- I use the A2Z Quick Change Toolpost on one of my Uni's. They are about $98 with shipping. Google for it. On the advice of the manufacturer, when I bought a second one, I ordered the one for the Atlas. This is quite a coincidence since my first one was transferred from my Atlas 618. All it took was a T nut in the 1/4 20 that fit the cross slide of the UNI. If you have a 6mm socket head screw of appropriate length, then a nut from a UNI hold-down clamp is perfect. These are top quality CNC products. Good luck. JET

I am in need of an Adjustable Tool Post.

I don't have the experience, material, or tools to make one on my own
nor do I want to try.

Fishing for one on Ebay is starving me to death.

Does anyone know of a person, place, or website that sells after
market adjustable tool posts that will fit the Unimat SL-1000?

I would appreciate any advise or direction.

Thanks

Tim

At the risk of getting a bit OT, another bit of the memory about getting
those plied belts to lay up correctly.

As I recall, each ply is made to twist as the cord is plied. A simple
demonstration with a piece of string:

Double the length of string over, and pinch both loose ends betwixt
forefinger and thumb. Slide the tip of the forefinger over thumb,
causing both ends of the string to twist in the same direction. The
string will lay up in a two ply form. Fix the ends together with some
tape or a bulldog clip or the like.
Now, without allowing the ends to untwist, it will be found that
attempting to undo the laying up will be resisted, and the string will
spring back into the plied form.

Likewise, the belts won't come from together without the ends of each
ply being allowed to untwist.

That's all,
Clay.

Thanks for the info.

Clayton Bonser <claybonser@...> wrote: On Thu, 2007-01-18 at 22:29 +0000, caryscotthere wrote:
> Hello Tughom,
>

<snip>

> The old twisted rope type belts did work OK. They were made of
> polyester thread twisted and coated with black rubber of some kind.
> How they got the rope to retain the twist is a mystery to me. Anybody
> know more about this?

<snip>

I think they spin the yarn in Z twist (anticlockwise) and ply it in S
twist, kind of pre-loading it to retain the twist.
(From dim memories, correct me if I'm wrong.)

Clay.








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G'day all,
It is sometimes mentioned here that the SL had more accessories than the U3 and that factor might be helpful in deciding between which one to acquire (I know, "both" would be the best answer!).

I had a quick think about it - just _what_ are those accessories that the SL has that the 3 doesn't? I mean genuine factory items. I did a search through the archives and couldn't find this question answered.

I could only come up with three that are unique to the SL, being there was no U3 equivalent (that I know of, anyway):

1) the headstock/tailstock raising blocks
2) the slow-speed attachment with the extra pulley
3) the long bed rails for longer woodworking jobs

What others were there?

Steve.

Hi Brian

It appears that the center bushing has the index
pin and the internal taper to fit the WW 8mm
collets, and the main body is threaded to
accept the collet thread. I'm guessing that
instead of using a drawbar, the nose piece is
unscrewed to push on the bushing, thus closing
the collet. Did I miss something ??
I did save the pics if anyone needs them.

Regards
Art



--- In UNIMAT@..., "Brian" <brians@...> wrote:

Currently there is a custom collet chuck for WW Collets on eBay

with

a thin piece or washer chuck. They seem to be very well made.

eBay 140075920613 WW Collet Chuck fits Unimat Lathe Machinist Made

The collet chuck seems to be a rather elaborate item. A steel

piece

that mounts to the headstock spindle with a brass nose piece

threaded

onto that. There is a separate central brass centre section that
fits inside the outer sections & the collet itself that goes inside
that.

Why would there be a separate brass centre section & not just bore
the outer sections to suit?

For that matter, why a separate brass nosepiece?

Both the steel main section & the brass nosepiece have a hole

drilled

into them for a c spanner or tommy bar to allow ease of removal so

it

doesn't appear that they are meant to just stay together.


Regards,
Brian.

On 21/01/2007 15:19, Brian said,

Currently there is a custom collet chuck for WW Collets on eBay with a thin piece or washer chuck. They seem to be very well made.
eBay 140075920613 WW Collet Chuck fits Unimat Lathe Machinist Made

In case anyone else was wondering, this is threaded M12, not M14. That rules out my interest in it!

--
Paul Boyd

Currently there is a custom collet chuck for WW Collets on eBay with
a thin piece or washer chuck. They seem to be very well made.

eBay 140075920613 WW Collet Chuck fits Unimat Lathe Machinist Made

The collet chuck seems to be a rather elaborate item. A steel piece
that mounts to the headstock spindle with a brass nose piece threaded
onto that. There is a separate central brass centre section that
fits inside the outer sections & the collet itself that goes inside
that.

Why would there be a separate brass centre section & not just bore
the outer sections to suit?

For that matter, why a separate brass nosepiece?

Both the steel main section & the brass nosepiece have a hole drilled
into them for a c spanner or tommy bar to allow ease of removal so it
doesn't appear that they are meant to just stay together.


Regards,
Brian.

Hello All,

A few weeks ago there was a MK4 cast iron unimat mentioned with an odd
name plate. I think it was a purposes built modified Unimat. Well it
is now bing offered in pieces. Take a look at ebay Item No.
110081268146. This is a very elaborate radius turning ficture
manufactured for some purpose. Note that it is on a cast iron carriage
that has been machined flat. Many good photos. As this was just listed
today you might take a look at some of the other interesting items
being offered by the same seller. I suspect they were all part of the
same kit.

Best, Cary Stewart

Thanks for the tip, Larry. With the $30, I'll either buy some metal to turn
on my Unimat or go out and buy an avocado (it's been freezing here in
southern California)!
Cheers from Al in Temecula

On Thu, 2007-01-18 at 22:29 +0000, caryscotthere wrote:

Hello Tughom,

<snip>

The old twisted rope type belts did work OK. They were made of
polyester thread twisted and coated with black rubber of some kind.
How they got the rope to retain the twist is a mystery to me. Anybody
know more about this?

<snip>

I think they spin the yarn in Z twist (anticlockwise) and ply it in S
twist, kind of pre-loading it to retain the twist.
(From dim memories, correct me if I'm wrong.)

Clay.

has information on this.
$30 will buy something useful for our hobbies.
HTH
Larry Murray