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Hello Clay,

Thanks for the info and a demonstration technique for the twisted best
design. I had always wondered how it was done. I suspect others had
the same question.

Best, Cary Stewart

Tim:

Mert Baker makes a very nice adjustable tool post for only $65. I don't recall his exact email address but he will no doubt see your posting and inform you.


John Whipple

Tim <sgt_tim1@...> wrote:
I am in need of an Adjustable Tool Post.

I don't have the experience, material, or tools to make one on my own
nor do I want to try.

Fishing for one on Ebay is starving me to death.

Does anyone know of a person, place, or website that sells after
market adjustable tool posts that will fit the Unimat SL-1000?

I would appreciate any advise or direction.

Thanks

Tim

Tim- I use the A2Z Quick Change Toolpost on one of my Uni's. They are about $98 with shipping. Google for it. On the advice of the manufacturer, when I bought a second one, I ordered the one for the Atlas. This is quite a coincidence since my first one was transferred from my Atlas 618. All it took was a T nut in the 1/4 20 that fit the cross slide of the UNI. If you have a 6mm socket head screw of appropriate length, then a nut from a UNI hold-down clamp is perfect. These are top quality CNC products. Good luck. JET

I am in need of an Adjustable Tool Post.

I don't have the experience, material, or tools to make one on my own
nor do I want to try.

Fishing for one on Ebay is starving me to death.

Does anyone know of a person, place, or website that sells after
market adjustable tool posts that will fit the Unimat SL-1000?

I would appreciate any advise or direction.

Thanks

Tim

At the risk of getting a bit OT, another bit of the memory about getting
those plied belts to lay up correctly.

As I recall, each ply is made to twist as the cord is plied. A simple
demonstration with a piece of string:

Double the length of string over, and pinch both loose ends betwixt
forefinger and thumb. Slide the tip of the forefinger over thumb,
causing both ends of the string to twist in the same direction. The
string will lay up in a two ply form. Fix the ends together with some
tape or a bulldog clip or the like.
Now, without allowing the ends to untwist, it will be found that
attempting to undo the laying up will be resisted, and the string will
spring back into the plied form.

Likewise, the belts won't come from together without the ends of each
ply being allowed to untwist.

That's all,
Clay.

Thanks for the info.

Clayton Bonser <claybonser@...> wrote: On Thu, 2007-01-18 at 22:29 +0000, caryscotthere wrote:
> Hello Tughom,
>

<snip>

> The old twisted rope type belts did work OK. They were made of
> polyester thread twisted and coated with black rubber of some kind.
> How they got the rope to retain the twist is a mystery to me. Anybody
> know more about this?

<snip>

I think they spin the yarn in Z twist (anticlockwise) and ply it in S
twist, kind of pre-loading it to retain the twist.
(From dim memories, correct me if I'm wrong.)

Clay.








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G'day all,
It is sometimes mentioned here that the SL had more accessories than the U3 and that factor might be helpful in deciding between which one to acquire (I know, "both" would be the best answer!).

I had a quick think about it - just _what_ are those accessories that the SL has that the 3 doesn't? I mean genuine factory items. I did a search through the archives and couldn't find this question answered.

I could only come up with three that are unique to the SL, being there was no U3 equivalent (that I know of, anyway):

1) the headstock/tailstock raising blocks
2) the slow-speed attachment with the extra pulley
3) the long bed rails for longer woodworking jobs

What others were there?

Steve.

Hi Brian

It appears that the center bushing has the index
pin and the internal taper to fit the WW 8mm
collets, and the main body is threaded to
accept the collet thread. I'm guessing that
instead of using a drawbar, the nose piece is
unscrewed to push on the bushing, thus closing
the collet. Did I miss something ??
I did save the pics if anyone needs them.

Regards
Art



--- In UNIMAT@..., "Brian" <brians@...> wrote:

Currently there is a custom collet chuck for WW Collets on eBay

with

a thin piece or washer chuck. They seem to be very well made.

eBay 140075920613 WW Collet Chuck fits Unimat Lathe Machinist Made

The collet chuck seems to be a rather elaborate item. A steel

piece

that mounts to the headstock spindle with a brass nose piece

threaded

onto that. There is a separate central brass centre section that
fits inside the outer sections & the collet itself that goes inside
that.

Why would there be a separate brass centre section & not just bore
the outer sections to suit?

For that matter, why a separate brass nosepiece?

Both the steel main section & the brass nosepiece have a hole

drilled

into them for a c spanner or tommy bar to allow ease of removal so

it

doesn't appear that they are meant to just stay together.


Regards,
Brian.

On 21/01/2007 15:19, Brian said,

Currently there is a custom collet chuck for WW Collets on eBay with a thin piece or washer chuck. They seem to be very well made.
eBay 140075920613 WW Collet Chuck fits Unimat Lathe Machinist Made

In case anyone else was wondering, this is threaded M12, not M14. That rules out my interest in it!

--
Paul Boyd

Currently there is a custom collet chuck for WW Collets on eBay with
a thin piece or washer chuck. They seem to be very well made.

eBay 140075920613 WW Collet Chuck fits Unimat Lathe Machinist Made

The collet chuck seems to be a rather elaborate item. A steel piece
that mounts to the headstock spindle with a brass nose piece threaded
onto that. There is a separate central brass centre section that
fits inside the outer sections & the collet itself that goes inside
that.

Why would there be a separate brass centre section & not just bore
the outer sections to suit?

For that matter, why a separate brass nosepiece?

Both the steel main section & the brass nosepiece have a hole drilled
into them for a c spanner or tommy bar to allow ease of removal so it
doesn't appear that they are meant to just stay together.


Regards,
Brian.

Hello All,

A few weeks ago there was a MK4 cast iron unimat mentioned with an odd
name plate. I think it was a purposes built modified Unimat. Well it
is now bing offered in pieces. Take a look at ebay Item No.
110081268146. This is a very elaborate radius turning ficture
manufactured for some purpose. Note that it is on a cast iron carriage
that has been machined flat. Many good photos. As this was just listed
today you might take a look at some of the other interesting items
being offered by the same seller. I suspect they were all part of the
same kit.

Best, Cary Stewart

Thanks for the tip, Larry. With the $30, I'll either buy some metal to turn
on my Unimat or go out and buy an avocado (it's been freezing here in
southern California)!
Cheers from Al in Temecula

On Thu, 2007-01-18 at 22:29 +0000, caryscotthere wrote:

Hello Tughom,

<snip>

The old twisted rope type belts did work OK. They were made of
polyester thread twisted and coated with black rubber of some kind.
How they got the rope to retain the twist is a mystery to me. Anybody
know more about this?

<snip>

I think they spin the yarn in Z twist (anticlockwise) and ply it in S
twist, kind of pre-loading it to retain the twist.
(From dim memories, correct me if I'm wrong.)

Clay.

has information on this.
$30 will buy something useful for our hobbies.
HTH
Larry Murray

Mike, go to eBay and search for 250073526700.

AL T



_____

From: UNIMAT@... [mailto:UNIMAT@...] On Behalf Of
scooterpigeon
Sent: Thursday, January 18, 2007 7:05 PM
To: UNIMAT@...
Subject: [UNIMAT] Please help a new guy!



Hi Folks
Great Group!
Really enjoy reading all the previous posts, lots of great info.
Picked up a Unimat 3 last weekend, been cleaning it up, and learning
about these amazing little machines!
I am looking for a tailstock ram and screw spindle.
If anyone can help please send an email to scootmike@...
Thanks again!
Mike Mills

Hi Folks
Great Group!
Really enjoy reading all the previous posts, lots of great info.
Picked up a Unimat 3 last weekend, been cleaning it up, and learning
about these amazing little machines!
I am looking for a tailstock ram and screw spindle.
If anyone can help please send an email to scootmike@...
Thanks again!
Mike Mills

Hello Tughom,

The old twisted rope type belts did work OK. They were made of
polyester thread twisted and coated with black rubber of some kind.
How they got the rope to retain the twist is a mystery to me. Anybody
know more about this? The major negative of these belts is that when
they get warm they thow sticky black dust everywhere. As you might
surmise at high speed or heavy load they do stretch.

I like the polyethylene solid belts the best but the black 'O' rings
in the right size work fine also.

Best, Cary Stewart

--- In UNIMAT@..., "tughom" <tughom@...> wrote:

I recently found a hardware store that used to sell unimats. They had
a couple of belt sets that are still in the package. These belts look
like twisted rope, but on one of my units I got these belts with it
and they work pretty well. My question is do the newer belts

available

on the net or eBay perform better than these older style belts.

Thanks

Tughom

I recently found a hardware store that used to sell unimats. They had
a couple of belt sets that are still in the package. These belts look
like twisted rope, but on one of my units I got these belts with it
and they work pretty well. My question is do the newer belts available
on the net or eBay perform better than these older style belts.

Thanks

Tughom

On Tue, 16 Jan 2007 14:07:43 -0500, you wrote:

I have the 4" RT, and for the Uni, it's HUGE> When I wrote how to get a uniform diameter, I assumed he was turning between centers.

I think he was, using a lathe dog to drive the work. I figured I'd
cover as many bases as possible.

Harvey

Mert

mertbaker@...
----- Original Message -----
From: Harvey White
To: UNIMAT@...
Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2007 2:00 PM
Subject: Re: [UNIMAT] Some newbie questions


On Tue, 16 Jan 2007 18:42:17 -0000, you wrote:

>I am learning and having fun, so please bear with me on some newbie
>questions. I have a DB200.
>
>1) Cutting Off: If you are supporting a workpiece between centers or
>even just on a chuck, what are you supposed to do when you get the
>part just about cut off? If if falls off, it will hit the ways. It
>is still rotating so you can't grab it.

Generally, you let it fall. You could put something over the ways to
keep the ricochets down, but that can get in the way and become a
safety problem.

>
>2) How does one match up at the point where I need to rotate the
>workpiece after turning between centers? I can only cut to the point
>just before my cross slide hits the chuck or the lathe dog. Then I
>turn it over to turn down the part that was previously in the chuck or
>lathe dog. I can never seem to get it totally matched with the
>previously turned section. I usually end up with some sort of a mark,
>either high or low.

This is a problem with any 3 jaw chuck and reversing the work on any
lathe. You need to either

1) consider the amount of material in the chuck as scrap, and cut it
properly.

2) use a 4 jaw chuck, and center for exact roundness

3) do all of your turning operations without removing the work,
leaving only an end facing operation till last.

A collet would give you better centering, as well.

You will probably get closest in your work if you rotate the work 180
degrees when placing it in the chuck. Not the best, but perhaps
closest.

You can also try shims, or try to rotate the work in the jaws to give
the minimum runout.

main problem is that no 3 jaw chuck is completely accurate for
centering.

>
>3) Do people tend to leave their belts on the pulleys when they are
>done for the night or do they tend to take them off? Do the belts
>last longer if they are not under tension or doesn't it really matter?

Mine have deteriorated for old age before they expand too much for
tension unless they're rubber.
>
>4) How does one face a workpiece when using the live center? There
>doesn't seem to be much room to get a cutting tool in there to face
>the workpiece.
>

Best you can do is to use an angled tool and face as much as possible.
You could use a steady rest if you had one (supports the end of the
material being turned).

>5) I don't have an indexing attachment. Are there any commercial
>rotary tables that work well with the Unimat? If not, has anyone made
>the rotary table as described in Rex Tingey's book available in the
>Files section?

I do, but it uses the 3 jaw chuck and is thus best for milling.
Therefore, no idea except that the smallest rotary table I know of is
a 4 inch, which is way overdone for the unimat. Taig or Sherline
might have something in the right size, or at least, point you to the
right size.

>
>Thank you for your answers.

You're welcome,

Harvey










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I also know of the instance when a designer did some
scribbling in the upper right hand corner of his sketch.
When the design was ready to pass off to the draftsman for
inking, the designer circled the scribbling and wrote "Do
Not Ink This".

The Design came back, and in the upper right hand corner,
beautifully inked on Mylar, "Do Not Ink This"

Larry