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Re: Please help a new guy!
Mike, go to eBay and search for 250073526700.
AL T _____ From: UNIMAT@... [mailto:UNIMAT@...] On Behalf Of scooterpigeon Sent: Thursday, January 18, 2007 7:05 PM To: UNIMAT@... Subject: [UNIMAT] Please help a new guy! Hi Folks Great Group! Really enjoy reading all the previous posts, lots of great info. Picked up a Unimat 3 last weekend, been cleaning it up, and learning about these amazing little machines! I am looking for a tailstock ram and screw spindle. If anyone can help please send an email to scootmike@... Thanks again! Mike Mills |
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Please help a new guy!
Hi Folks
Great Group! Really enjoy reading all the previous posts, lots of great info. Picked up a Unimat 3 last weekend, been cleaning it up, and learning about these amazing little machines! I am looking for a tailstock ram and screw spindle. If anyone can help please send an email to scootmike@... Thanks again! Mike Mills |
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Re: Unimat SLBelts
caryscotthere
Hello Tughom,
The old twisted rope type belts did work OK. They were made of polyester thread twisted and coated with black rubber of some kind. How they got the rope to retain the twist is a mystery to me. Anybody know more about this? The major negative of these belts is that when they get warm they thow sticky black dust everywhere. As you might surmise at high speed or heavy load they do stretch. I like the polyethylene solid belts the best but the black 'O' rings in the right size work fine also. Best, Cary Stewart --- In UNIMAT@..., "tughom" <tughom@...> wrote: available on the net or eBay perform better than these older style belts. |
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Unimat SLBelts
tughom
I recently found a hardware store that used to sell unimats. They had
a couple of belt sets that are still in the package. These belts look like twisted rope, but on one of my units I got these belts with it and they work pretty well. My question is do the newer belts available on the net or eBay perform better than these older style belts. Thanks Tughom |
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Re: Some newbie questions
Harvey White
On Tue, 16 Jan 2007 14:07:43 -0500, you wrote:
I have the 4" RT, and for the Uni, it's HUGE> When I wrote how to get a uniform diameter, I assumed he was turning between centers.I think he was, using a lathe dog to drive the work. I figured I'd cover as many bases as possible. Harvey Mert |
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Re: On the lighter side of things.
Mr Lawrence Hart
I also know of the instance when a designer did some
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scribbling in the upper right hand corner of his sketch. When the design was ready to pass off to the draftsman for inking, the designer circled the scribbling and wrote "Do Not Ink This". The Design came back, and in the upper right hand corner, beautifully inked on Mylar, "Do Not Ink This" Larry ----- Original Message -----
From: "R. E. Sears" <Clokdok@...> To: <UNIMAT@...> Sent: Friday, January 12, 2007 8:07 AM Subject: Re: [UNIMAT] On the lighter side of things. Bill;the Construction Notes on some of his work:converted to CNC paying big dollars.advertised on Ebay. He put in his offer and won it, No matter whatOnce he got it home he tried to get it up and running. duely arrived,he did, he could not get the CNC program to run. problem wasdid a bit on tapping on the key board, announced the the minimumsolved and presented the swarfe maker with a bill for a him: "So whatservice call. error."was the problem? ID ten TThe swarfe maker not wanting to appear stupid asked "An T error?"error? Whats that, in case I ned to fix the error again? Harold."No" said the swarfe maker. So the swarfe maker wrote it out. ID10T. |
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Re: Some newbie questions
caryscotthere
Hello "topguntml",
First off I would not recommend doing any cut-off/parting-off work between centers. Mert has described how to do it but be very careful as things can get very exciting quickly. Also using the Steady Rest could help with this and also facing off the end where you center drilled. For a new Horozontal/Vertical Rotory Table take a look at New England Brass and Tools site as they are now offering a 3" diameter rotory table. It doesn't look exactly like the one that Martin bought a year or two ago but is close. It is larger than the original Indexing/Dividing Attachment though and it is about $115.00 (I think). Best, Cary Stewart --- In UNIMAT@..., "topguntml" <tvipermn@...> wrote: centers or even just on a chuck, what are you supposed to do when you get theIt is still rotating so you can't grab it.point just before my cross slide hits the chuck or the lathe dog. Then Ichuck or lathe dog. I can never seem to get it totally matched with themark, either high or low.are done for the night or do they tend to take them off? Do the beltsmatter? There doesn't seem to be much room to get a cutting tool in there to facemade the rotary table as described in Rex Tingey's book available in the |
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Re: My "widow" might have a Unimate SL to sell
waltdismal
Larry, I am attempting to locate the Unimat Kidney Machining
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Attachment as a present for you. However, I hope you do not need it. Besides, it's metric, and your kidneys are English. Good luck. --- In UNIMAT@..., ToolRoomTrustee@... wrote:
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Re: Some newbie questions
Mert Baker
I have the 4" RT, and for the Uni, it's HUGE> When I wrote how to get a uniform diameter, I assumed he was turning between centers.
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Mert mertbaker@... ----- Original Message -----
From: Harvey White To: UNIMAT@... Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2007 2:00 PM Subject: Re: [UNIMAT] Some newbie questions On Tue, 16 Jan 2007 18:42:17 -0000, you wrote: >I am learning and having fun, so please bear with me on some newbie >questions. I have a DB200. > >1) Cutting Off: If you are supporting a workpiece between centers or >even just on a chuck, what are you supposed to do when you get the >part just about cut off? If if falls off, it will hit the ways. It >is still rotating so you can't grab it. Generally, you let it fall. You could put something over the ways to keep the ricochets down, but that can get in the way and become a safety problem. > >2) How does one match up at the point where I need to rotate the >workpiece after turning between centers? I can only cut to the point >just before my cross slide hits the chuck or the lathe dog. Then I >turn it over to turn down the part that was previously in the chuck or >lathe dog. I can never seem to get it totally matched with the >previously turned section. I usually end up with some sort of a mark, >either high or low. This is a problem with any 3 jaw chuck and reversing the work on any lathe. You need to either 1) consider the amount of material in the chuck as scrap, and cut it properly. 2) use a 4 jaw chuck, and center for exact roundness 3) do all of your turning operations without removing the work, leaving only an end facing operation till last. A collet would give you better centering, as well. You will probably get closest in your work if you rotate the work 180 degrees when placing it in the chuck. Not the best, but perhaps closest. You can also try shims, or try to rotate the work in the jaws to give the minimum runout. main problem is that no 3 jaw chuck is completely accurate for centering. > >3) Do people tend to leave their belts on the pulleys when they are >done for the night or do they tend to take them off? Do the belts >last longer if they are not under tension or doesn't it really matter? Mine have deteriorated for old age before they expand too much for tension unless they're rubber. > >4) How does one face a workpiece when using the live center? There >doesn't seem to be much room to get a cutting tool in there to face >the workpiece. > Best you can do is to use an angled tool and face as much as possible. You could use a steady rest if you had one (supports the end of the material being turned). >5) I don't have an indexing attachment. Are there any commercial >rotary tables that work well with the Unimat? If not, has anyone made >the rotary table as described in Rex Tingey's book available in the >Files section? I do, but it uses the 3 jaw chuck and is thus best for milling. Therefore, no idea except that the smallest rotary table I know of is a 4 inch, which is way overdone for the unimat. Taig or Sherline might have something in the right size, or at least, point you to the right size. > >Thank you for your answers. You're welcome, Harvey |
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Re: Some newbie questions
Harvey White
On Tue, 16 Jan 2007 18:42:17 -0000, you wrote:
I am learning and having fun, so please bear with me on some newbieGenerally, you let it fall. You could put something over the ways to keep the ricochets down, but that can get in the way and become a safety problem. This is a problem with any 3 jaw chuck and reversing the work on any lathe. You need to either 1) consider the amount of material in the chuck as scrap, and cut it properly. 2) use a 4 jaw chuck, and center for exact roundness 3) do all of your turning operations without removing the work, leaving only an end facing operation till last. A collet would give you better centering, as well. You will probably get closest in your work if you rotate the work 180 degrees when placing it in the chuck. Not the best, but perhaps closest. You can also try shims, or try to rotate the work in the jaws to give the minimum runout. main problem is that no 3 jaw chuck is completely accurate for centering. Mine have deteriorated for old age before they expand too much for tension unless they're rubber. Best you can do is to use an angled tool and face as much as possible. You could use a steady rest if you had one (supports the end of the material being turned). 5) I don't have an indexing attachment. Are there any commercialI do, but it uses the 3 jaw chuck and is thus best for milling. Therefore, no idea except that the smallest rotary table I know of is a 4 inch, which is way overdone for the unimat. Taig or Sherline might have something in the right size, or at least, point you to the right size. You're welcome, Harvey |
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Re: Some newbie questions
Mert Baker
1. I get it nearly cut thru, and then stop the lathe & finish the cut with the hacksaw, if it's a fairly large part, & always do it this way if it's being held between centers. On the Uni, workpieces are rather tiny, and if held only by the chuck, don't go far, even if spinning. You can also cut nearly through, stop the lathe and twist the part off with your fingers.
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2. Turn the part down to 1 or two thou over where you want it. Make the final cut to exact size as far as you can, and WITHOUT MOVING the cross slide, run the carriage back to the other end, reverse the piece, and make that final cut . 3. Take 'em off. I just leave mine dangling on one pulley. 4. There isn't much room. For a face cut, use the plain, rather than the ball bearing center. The short time involved is not going to heat things up enuf to worry about. You will have to hang the toolbit out a bit, even so. 5. When I wanted to do a couple of cylinder heads on my Uni, I didn't have a indexing attachment either. I just put layout fluid on the head, and laid out the spots for the 6 holes with the dividers. Then center punched one, and drilled thru the head into the cylinder with the tap drill with the two clamped together, opened the hole in the head with the clearance drill, tapped the one in the cylinder, and ran in a bolt. Then I repeated this on the other side of the head from the bolt, and with two of the headbolts in place, drilled the other holes. Now, there might be a small error in the spacing, but no one without a digital caliper is ever going to notice. Bot my DB in 1959, I think. Still use it, too. Mert mertbaker@... ----- Original Message -----
From: topguntml To: UNIMAT@... Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2007 1:42 PM Subject: [UNIMAT] Some newbie questions I am learning and having fun, so please bear with me on some newbie questions. I have a DB200. 1) Cutting Off: If you are supporting a workpiece between centers or even just on a chuck, what are you supposed to do when you get the part just about cut off? If if falls off, it will hit the ways. It is still rotating so you can't grab it. 2) How does one match up at the point where I need to rotate the workpiece after turning between centers? I can only cut to the point just before my cross slide hits the chuck or the lathe dog. Then I turn it over to turn down the part that was previously in the chuck or lathe dog. I can never seem to get it totally matched with the previously turned section. I usually end up with some sort of a mark, either high or low. 3) Do people tend to leave their belts on the pulleys when they are done for the night or do they tend to take them off? Do the belts last longer if they are not under tension or doesn't it really matter? 4) How does one face a workpiece when using the live center? There doesn't seem to be much room to get a cutting tool in there to face the workpiece. 5) I don't have an indexing attachment. Are there any commercial rotary tables that work well with the Unimat? If not, has anyone made the rotary table as described in Rex Tingey's book available in the Files section? Thank you for your answers. |
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Re: Unimats as collectables
bpendle1
For UK readers: there is a SL at
if anyone is interested. The listing mentions "Emco-Unimat SL Lathe made in Austria complete with many accessories, including milling & drilling attachments, 4 jaw chuck, tailstock chuckm faceplate, saw & other arbors, cutting tools, gear cutters, etc." and there is a photo. Nothing to do with me - just passing it on. Bob |
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Some newbie questions
I am learning and having fun, so please bear with me on some newbie
questions. I have a DB200. 1) Cutting Off: If you are supporting a workpiece between centers or even just on a chuck, what are you supposed to do when you get the part just about cut off? If if falls off, it will hit the ways. It is still rotating so you can't grab it. 2) How does one match up at the point where I need to rotate the workpiece after turning between centers? I can only cut to the point just before my cross slide hits the chuck or the lathe dog. Then I turn it over to turn down the part that was previously in the chuck or lathe dog. I can never seem to get it totally matched with the previously turned section. I usually end up with some sort of a mark, either high or low. 3) Do people tend to leave their belts on the pulleys when they are done for the night or do they tend to take them off? Do the belts last longer if they are not under tension or doesn't it really matter? 4) How does one face a workpiece when using the live center? There doesn't seem to be much room to get a cutting tool in there to face the workpiece. 5) I don't have an indexing attachment. Are there any commercial rotary tables that work well with the Unimat? If not, has anyone made the rotary table as described in Rex Tingey's book available in the Files section? Thank you for your answers. |
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Re: My "widow" might have a Unimate SL to sell
OPTICKS
Hi Larry:
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I also would like to extend the best wishes from Canada for a speedy recovery and hope we will see back on line very soon Best regards Barry (Ottawa) ----- Original Message -----
From: ToolRoomTrustee@... To: UNIMAT@... Sent: Monday, January 15, 2007 11:51 AM Subject: [UNIMAT] My "widow" might have a Unimate SL to sell I have a Unimat SL purchased in new in Seattle in 1971 from Aaronson's. It still has the original wood box and equipment. In addition, I have: the headstock raising block three jaw chuck four jaw chuck drill chuck milling vise milling table with clamps indexing head with one gear and possibly (ie can it be found?) a scroll saw attachment. I also have Rex Tingney's book on the Unimat, the other Englishman's book, and possibly the English model car maker's book. I am going under the knife in two weeks for kidney surgery, I expect to awaken but who knows??? My GF will be willed all my posessions, I suppose in the absence of any family member interested in machining the Unimat will be sold. What is a good asking price range for the Unimat, both as a complete unit with accessories or as the basic unit with accessories sold separately? Thank you Larry Murray __________________________________________________________ Check out the new AOL. Most comprehensive set of free safety and security tools, free access to millions of high-quality videos from across the web, free AOL Mail and more. |
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Re: A Little O/T - Patent Search And results
Thanks.
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That's cool. I did a search on micro stepping motor controllers and the earliest reference appears to be 1982 from Xerox Japan. Fascinating. How long do patents last? John Dammeyer Automation Artisans Inc. Ph. 1 250 544 4950 -----Original Message----- |
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Re: A Little O/T - Patent Search And results
Harvey White
On Tue, 16 Jan 2007 04:24:17 -0000, you wrote:
Hi AllIt actually works, I went and looked up one that I knew of... Harvey
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Re: My "widow" might have a Unimate SL to sell
Hi Larry
Our sincere wish for you Larry is to see you back on line in the shortest of recovery times, and asking if any one has that one special Unimat accessory you been wanting! I think I can speak for the Group in wishing you the very best of results. Regards The Group --- In UNIMAT@..., ToolRoomTrustee@... wrote: Aaronson's. It still has the original wood box and equipment.Englishman's book, and possibly the English model car maker's book. expect to awaken but who knows??? any family member interested in machining the Unimat will be sold.complete unit with accessories or as the basic unit with accessories sold separately? ______________________________________________________________________ __ |
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A Little O/T - Patent Search And results
Hi All
First the O/T Google has come up with a new "Patent Search" They have archived and OCR'd the 7 million patents in the USPTO and now have a "Beta" version of it on line. Links as follows... Standard Search Advanced Search Now for the Uni part... Have a look at the following patent numbers 2821009 SL/DB D277758 5 CNC ? D278064 5 CNC ? 5090278 Perhaps the one that was on eBay or ? 5090279 Perhaps the one that was on eBay or ? This Google Patent Search is a huge step forward towards unlocking the secret of finding USPTO patents, and will soon be world wide. Be prepared for a few spelling errors, as the speed required to process this enormous amount of info would leave any OCR engine a bit breathless. Enjoy Regards Art |
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Re: T rest and gravers?
Mert Baker
Come to think of it, I have a flip-over watchmaker's T-rest that could be adapted to the Uni DB/SLs or to the #3/4, which I would be glad to sell for $10 + postage. Email off list.
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Mert mertbaker@... ----- Original Message -----
From: gustavssonper To: UNIMAT@... Sent: Monday, January 15, 2007 7:04 AM Subject: [UNIMAT] Re: T rest and gravers? A watchmakers flip-over t-rest was offered for a short while just before the demise of the Unimat 3. I have made one for myself - just a piece of 1/8" mild steel plate that bolts onto the cross slide that has a collar with a grub screw to take watchmaker sized t-rests. For gravers I use 1/8" toolbits, like this: It is easily one of my most used accessories on the Unimat. Btw - has anyone ever seen one of the Hemingway kits for a sensitive drilling tailstock for the Unimat 3? I would dearly love to have one. Per --- In UNIMAT@..., "tag1260" <tgaran4@...> wrote: > > Does anyone have any plans for a T rest to use with gravers? Was this > ever offered as an option for the Unimat? > > Thanks > Tom > |
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My "widow" might have a Unimate SL to sell
I have a Unimat SL purchased in new in Seattle in 1971 from Aaronson's.
It still has the original wood box and equipment. In addition, I have: the headstock raising block three jaw chuck four jaw chuck drill chuck milling vise milling table with clamps indexing head with one gear and possibly (ie can it be found?) a scroll saw attachment. I also have Rex Tingney's book on the Unimat, the other Englishman's book, and possibly the English model car maker's book. I am going under the knife in two weeks for kidney surgery, I expect to awaken but who knows??? My GF will be willed all my posessions, I suppose in the absence of any family member interested in machining the Unimat will be sold. What is a good asking price range for the Unimat, both as a complete unit with accessories or as the basic unit with accessories sold separately? Thank you Larry Murray ________________________________________________________________________ Check out the new AOL. Most comprehensive set of free safety and security tools, free access to millions of high-quality videos from across the web, free AOL Mail and more. |
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