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The CAD design I referred to is by Roman and is in the Files under "cast iron base".

Maybe you were remembering Mert's custom cast iron base with integral column mount. He said this was the first pattern he ever attempted and it all happened forty years ago when he lived near a small

I did just that for my "big lathe" and it has worked well. Getting the bottom drawer higher than the bed of the lathe helped a lot.

Hi Gang: Similar to a Sewing Cabinet: Open: And closed: Carl.

I may build a 8”-12”riser on my work table behind my DB-200. On it I could place my 18” wide oak felt lined Gerstner tool chest that holds all my Unimat accessories. The riser could house the

Kevin, Thanks for the pictures. I especially love the one with the lower drawer. Dick

There was a widely available wooden base with a single drawer, but it's not so easy to find now. These days it is more a matter of finding or making something suitable. I would glue a few bits of wood

Some years ago at the Guildford club model steam rally there was someone with the whole workbench, centrepiece a DB/SL, all driven off a sewing machine treadle. The only thing that wasn't was the

Hi Gang: I think a sewing machine cabinet would make a nice base. An old treadle base would really be cool if you could run the lathe with your feet! Carl.

Here are a couple examples I have come across. https://www.homemadetools.net/forum/unimat-lathe-cabinet-storing-tooling-supporting-lathe-milling-machine-13682#post16867

John, I was not thinking of a box such as a cover. I am looking for a base with mounting feet. The interior spaces can be used to house some electronics, speed controller and hide wires. The front of

There are a lot of cast iron sewing machine bases that are not nearly as sturdy but easy to find (and scaled appropriately) John [email protected]> wrote:

I have several pictures that were sent to me a few years back by a group member of a riser base with integral enclosure to mount the Unimat lathe. It was made from a cast iron wood lathe base and was

John, I was able to get behind the pulley with a small pair of die bars to get the pulley off after I heated it. Dick

I also heated the pulley, but with a very small flame from air-acetylene torch. I needed a gear puller(just bought from Ebay) to do the job. [email protected]> wrote:

Once I got into the project of removing the timing belt pulley I found out the pulley was not black plastic but what appeared to be some type of sintered metal that was Locktited onto the motor

I examined my motors closer and found my job removing the toothed pulley will be much easier than I first thought. The motor shaft has a flat on one side and a groove all the way around. The pulle

The motor I used for my SL had a steel toothed belt pulley fitted, probably with Loctite. We set it up in a press to push the shaft out, and it took a bit of force. I suspect if we'd applied a bit of

Keith, The motors I purchased have toothed pulleys molded onto the motor shaft. I suppose I could set the armature up and turn the plastic pulley off so I can mount a standard Unimat pulley or more

Doug supplies sets of two or three belts, depending on whether you have the low speed pulley or not, for DB/SL and U3, all made to fit. I have been using them for a few years now with no signs of