Maybe you were remembering Mert's custom cast iron base with integral column mount. He said this was the first pattern he ever attempted and it all happened forty years ago when he lived near a small foundry. It did not have enough height to enclose anything underneath, IIRC.There was quite a bit of discussion at the time (maybe five or six years ago?) about the design of such a base and somebody modeled it and was going to get some made. Somebody else mentioned that the Lodge stovetop griddle was about the right size to use for this.

Tim

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I did just that for my "big lathe" and it has worked well. Getting the bottom drawer higher than the bed of the lathe helped a lot.

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Hi Gang:

Similar to a Sewing Cabinet:

Open:

And closed:

Carl.

I may build a 8”-12”riser on my work table behind my DB-200. On it I could place my 18” wide oak felt lined Gerstner tool chest that holds all my Unimat accessories. The riser could house the electrical wires and electronics and have a control panel on the front (forward, reverse, speed control etc.
I think this could look nice and tidy if well done and easy to access everything.
Dick

Kevin,
Thanks for the pictures. I especially love the one with the lower drawer.
Dick

There was a widely available wooden base with a single drawer, but it's not so easy to find now. These days it is more a matter of finding or making something suitable. I would glue a few bits of wood together, maybe leave the bottom screwed on to give access to the electrics, and a thin panel of plastic or metal on the front for the controls. An alternative I have considered is a simple flat base, with a smaller box on it containing the speed control. I've also considered using the box as a base for a small tool rack, for things like tommy bars and Allen keys, and all those little things that always go missing. I would then put the 24 V power supply somewhere else on the bench, so that mains voltages do not get near the lathe. At the moment I have all the power and speed control in a box at the back of the bench. It is not convenient to reach over the lathe to change the speed, or just to reach the ON/Off switch, but it does avoid having 230 V wiring next to moving parts. I will be looking at placing the speed controller with the lathe on my next 24 V motor conversion - two to do!

On Sat, Oct 9, 2021 at 02:35 PM, Carl wrote:

An old treadle base would really be cool if you could run the lathe with your feet!

Some years ago at the Guildford club model steam rally there was someone with the whole workbench, centrepiece a DB/SL, all driven off a sewing machine treadle. The only thing that wasn't was the lighting, and I suspect that a small motor used as a generator would be enough for modern LEDs these days. Far longer ago I remember seeing a hobby locksmith using a treadle to drive his Myford. Back in them days electric motors were expensive, and hard for anyone outside industry to buy.

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Hi Gang:

I think a sewing machine cabinet would make a nice base. An old treadle base would really be cool if you could run the lathe with your feet!

Carl.

John,
I was not thinking of a box such as a cover.
I am looking for a base with mounting feet.
The interior spaces can be used to house some electronics, speed controller and hide wires. The front of cast iron base becomes the control panel.
Dick

I have several pictures that were sent to me a few years back by a group member of a riser base with integral enclosure to mount the Unimat lathe. It was made from a cast iron wood lathe base and was set up with both horizontal lathe and vertical column. It have been unable to find a base like that on EBay or anywhere else.
Does anyone on this group remember that setup and the source of a cast iron base??
Thanks, Dick
--
http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/?OFF-SET-tailstock-center-65965#post105972
?SMALL TURRET TOOL POST PLANS?
?LARGE TURRET TOOL POST PLANS
?MINI-LATHE CARRIAGE LOCK PLANS
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?QUICK CHANGE LATHE TURRET
?MINI LATHE COMPOUND PIVOT MODIFICATION

John,
I was able to get behind the pulley with a small pair of die bars to get the pulley off after I heated it.
Dick

Once I got into the project of removing the timing belt pulley I found out the pulley was not black plastic but what appeared to be some type of sintered metal that was Locktited onto the motor armature shaft. I used a propane torch and concentrated the heat on the pulley only. It didn’t take long and the pulley easily slid off the shaft. The shaft itself was barely warm. I cleaned the shaft of any Locktite residue and I am ready to move on with the next step in my project.
Dick

On Wed, Sep 29, 2021 at 05:15 PM, Keith S. Angus wrote:

The motor I used for my SL had a steel toothed belt pulley fitted, probably with Loctite. We set it up in a press to push the shaft out, and it took a bit of force. I suspect if we'd applied a bit of heat it would have been much easier. If the pulley is plastic it should be easy to remove. I woud hack off most of it with a saw until there is not much left on the shaft, then set it spinning and attack it with wood turning tools. Then again, a bit of heat could make a big difference.

The professional (not proper) approach would be to take chunks off it with an angle grinder, almost down to the shaft, on opposite faces, then whack it with a hammer. If it's plastic a big coarse file will do the job.

I examined my motors closer and found my job removing the toothed pulley will be much easier than I first thought. The motor shaft has a flat on one side and a groove all the way around. The pulley is retained with an “E” clip. All I need to do is remove the clip and plastic pulley. Then I can machine and mount a belt pulley of my own design with a dog point set screw bearing on the existing motor flat. I will use the 3 tapped holes already provided in the motor end plate for mounting. No need to disassemble the motor at all. It doesn’t get any easier than this.

Dick

The motor I used for my SL had a steel toothed belt pulley fitted, probably with Loctite. We set it up in a press to push the shaft out, and it took a bit of force. I suspect if we'd applied a bit of heat it would have been much easier. If the pulley is plastic it should be easy to remove. I woud hack off most of it with a saw until there is not much left on the shaft, then set it spinning and attack it with wood turning tools. Then again, a bit of heat could make a big difference.

The professional (not proper) approach would be to take chunks off it with an angle grinder, almost down to the shaft, on opposite faces, then whack it with a hammer. If it's plastic a big coarse file will do the job.

Keith,
The motors I purchased have toothed pulleys molded onto the motor shaft. I suppose I could set the armature up and turn the plastic pulley off so I can mount a standard Unimat pulley or more likely one of my own making.
I am now curious about what others have done.
Dick

On Tue, Sep 28, 2021 at 02:56 AM, Carl wrote:

Don't forget the Harbor Freight belt!

Doug supplies sets of two or three belts, depending on whether you have the low speed pulley or not, for DB/SL and U3, all made to fit. I have been using them for a few years now with no signs of wear. They seem a bit tight at first, but I think they ease off once they warm up. They have plenty of grip. Doug has one set he has been using for nine years at least, and mine have been used for many hours. I got two sets on the grounds that, by the time I need a new set, he may not be around to supply them. Now it looks like the first set might outlast me too.

I know you can use cheap O rings instead, and buy them by the dozen, but the last time I tried O rings they lasted about five minutes, and regardless of price I don't want the drive to fail halfway through a job. I'd rather pay a little more (maybe) and get something I can rely on.

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Hi Gang:

Don't forget the Harbor Freight belt!

Carl.