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Boring is a good way to make big holes on small lathes but this workpiece is 6 inches long so I would want a fixed steady and possibly also to take the tailstock off. Even then the Unimat might be

Hi Gang: Using the two quills you can only drill 5cm deep. If you clamp the stock to the cross slide you can drill the full travel of the carriage, plus the head stock quill. So the idea is to use the

I think the best way is to drill a smaller hole and then bore it to size. -Guy-

Reduced shank drill or 3/8 chuck fitted to Unimat.

The drill is too big for the 0-? in Jacobs chuck. I guess they want the drill held in the 3 jaw chuck in the headstock but then the workholding arrangement is a bit of a mystery. As you have noticed

Instructions seem odd. The standard way of doing such a bore is TS drilling - but the workpiece is too long for that. How I would do it is use the extended way bars, intended for wood turning. Clamp

Hello again chaps, Last question for a long time I hope - I’ve got the majority of techniques tested for the Edenstaal cannon - the last question on it, I hope is that it suggests to centre punch

Thank you all!

My local hardware store has solid plastic rod in various diameters. If you can cut an internal 1mm thread, machining these should be possible. Neil ----- [email protected]> wrote:

If I remember correctly the cap thread is 9mm x 1mm pitch. Sent: 22 April 2020 17:27 To: Magnus Lindgren; [email protected] Subject: Re: [Unimat] Cap for coal/spring assembly Hello Magnus, Just curious

No misprint. The Unimat DB/SL HS offsets, the TS doesn't. The following is the correct procedure, per "bluerandonee": Put a dead center in the spindle. Clamp a machinists scale on top of a bit in the

On my U3 I would instead use the topslide....(Compund0 to turn the taper into the barrel blank.? Turning between centers using the faceplate and dog, Never tried it seems possible Ed

Hello Magnus, Just curious to know if you have had time to look at the bakelite caps on your scrap motor? Min mejladress: hakanssondahlberg@.... -- Lars H

I think that there is probably a misprint in the directions. To turn a taper between centers I would offset the tail stock from the center line between the head stock and tail stock. I don’t have my

Put a dead center in the spindle. Clamp a machinists scale on top of a bit in the tool holder on the cross slide (make sure it is set to 90 degrees). Adjust the cross slide until an inch line meets

If I am holding the barrel blank in my 3 or 4 jaw, I have excess material at the breech.? I wouldlet my tool touch the blank at the muzzle end and back the cross slice out 3.57 mm 3.55 or 3.6 easy

The point of a dead center inserted into the tailstock and the tailstock moved as far left as possible would (should, ought) give you the datum for measuring headstock offset from. alf,

Thanks Alf - I'm a little confused as to what my datum point would be - presumably I could set a tool at the edge of the faced rod at one extreme end of the taper, and then rotate the headstock so the

I can't specifically address your numbers there, but I can see my way to working out the geometry first on paper. Personally I either remember back to high school geometry and when that fails me - it

Reading the project files ‘Edenstaal Cannon’ - page 1 talks about offsetting the headstock to attain a taper. I’ve tried this with some brass and so I’m broadly familiar with the idea, but