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Hello Carl. I am trying to visualize what you mean by keystone shape punches. I know what a die set is and how it functions. I have built does well. I just need a little help with shape of keystone.

Hi Peter: I built a die set with 40 keystone shaped punches. The die set, die block, and stripper plate all had holes to match. I had to break and re-weld the band saw blade for each hole. (120x)

If you were to Make a Concertina ( https://hmi.homewood.net/twitterzephyr/ ) a scroll saw would be pretty vital I’d say. The great benefit over a coping or fret saw would be the guaranteed

Thank you,Carl! I agree with your speed control assessment. High speed is not necessary and sometimes detrimental to accuracy. Dick -- http://www.homemadetools.net/ forum/ OFF-

*How sextant works..* * *Note the mirror moves .* * *Next is plumb to horizon* *Dave* *

This is one using a ruler or paint stick. /g/minilathe/files/5%29Charts_&_Tables/HARDNESSTESTER%20Hardness%20%283%29%20%281%29.pdf

*FYI? Background* I had check class 45 cast iron and would not fit in Rockwell tester. Rutland had a unit for none destruction testing I purchased and very simple . A 3/16 ball from ball bearings.

I wish you success on your project and look forward to reading about your progress. Dick -- http://www.homemadetools.net/ forum/ OFF-

I have the adapter for the U3, which just sits in the end of the headstock spindle. Very useful for facing axles to length for model locos and the step chucks are good for holding wheels etc for

Pics of mine are in the photos section, Its not as hard to make as it looks at first glance. Just eat the elaphant one bite at a time.

One of my prized possessions is the Unimat Watchmaker Spindle and 8MM watchmaker collets. I don’t need them often but it is nice to have. I have collected them over the years. The spindle has needle

Hi Gang: While I don't have the scroll saw, I do have the circular saw. One feature both have is speed control. I did have a AMT scroll saw and found its cycle too fast. I tried a router speed

I look at building a pocket size Sextant Most are 3" [75mm]? to 4" [100mm] I decided to build a little bigger for easy it about 5?" [138mm] x 5" [125mm] . Using a off shelf protractor.? This to

Andrew, I'm with you. I have had my DB200 for quite some time.? Shortly after I acquired it, I set up the scroll saw. It took awhile, but I never used it. For small jobs, I use a hand coping saw. I

I have one that came with my DB200. I have only set the saw up once to see if it was complete and my first impression is that it would require considerable patience to use for much. If there was no

It's? yours! I'll try to have it in the mail to you by Saturday. A twofer! Besides, I've gotten a lot of help from members of this group over the years. Can't pay it back so trying to pay it

Peter, you are correct,I didn’t machine the small QC Toolpost on the Unimat but it can be done on the Unimat. I still have the cutters I used. It definitely would slower on the Unimat. I had a

If the book remains available - or if you can direct me to another copy - I'd be very interested. ?I'm an ancient newbie with a grandson whom I'm trying to get interested in the area. ?But I'd be

I recall watching a youtube video where a fellow making a QCTP without a mill constructed the dovetails by making a separate plate with the bevels and then attaching it to the body with hefty screws.

If you are considering making a brass model, there have been some good magazine articles. A fellow named Mel Thornburgh wrote some very detailed locomotive building series in Model Railroader